Never worked bone. Does it carve with the same tooling as wood (hand knives/scrapers)? or did you use a rotary tool (as Dremel)?
If the latter, how do you keep the workspace so clean? I see you have a mini belt sander in the background.
And, did you polish the knife scales or is that lacquered?
Also, the crest inlay ā nice dexterity in the cut-out!
yea i was eyeing that 1" belt sander too.. i need one of those, especially just a cheapie from HF.. they are worth their weight in gold when you need one.
Yeah , mostly like wood , hard wood . I used a dental bit on a drill press for the inlay . I tried freehand with the dremel , but my old wobbly hands didnāt do as well . I also used that little belt sander for the finale shaping . That nice shine is just polishing it . Polishing the raw bone looks good too .
James C, the bezel wasnāt too hard. A tiny bit of locktite was found. I used a single wrap of Scotchblue painters tape and non-marring, plastic jaw pliers. No heat was needed. The lens is 17mm x 1 mm.
Working on emitter swaps on lights from the L3 Illumination grab bag. Today I put an SST-20 2700k in an L11C. This was my first time using the 2700k. I think I like it. Iām really starting to appreciate warmer lights at night and a more neutral CCT during the day.
Mod process:
- Use a heat gun to soften the glue in the bezel and remove it. If necessary, which it was today, use a file to make some āflatsā on the brass pill to grab with a wrench for more leverage, thus not damaging the threads. Grippy gloves really help removing the bezel.
- Remove wires from MCPBC. Not much room in here so a small soldering iron tip would be a big help. Unfortunately I donāt have one. Try not to melt too much of the wire insulation.
I donāt have any mounted LEDs on PCBs this small so I use a heat gun to reflow them from donor PCBs.
Hereās a pic of the pill with bezel removed. You might have to zoom in, but the wires are actually folded back on themselves which makes removing them a bit trickier. I try to come at them from the side with the iron and push them out of the way as the solder melts. The insulation melts very easily and the wires are very small gauge. Thereās a little bit bunched up in the driver recess if you need extra, but be careful.
The grab bag was 10 lights, five AA clickies (L10C and L11C are very similar), two AA twisties, and three AAA twisties. Iām very happy all ligths were the 4-mode with firefly. Only one had a stock Nichia 219at and the rest were XP-G2. Thatās fine, I donāt like that particular Nichia very much anyway. These will be X-Mas gifts. Most of the recipients wonāt care about CCT or even tint.
The L10C clips will get sanded a little so they donāt get in the way of tailstanding. I have a bunch of TIRs and three CCTs of 219b on the way but they wonāt arrive in time - oh well.
From left to right, SST-20 2700k, SST-20 4000k, Nichia 219at 4500k, Nichia 219b 4500k, XP-G2 R5 maybe 5500k(?).
im curious about this too! I have been very interested in this light, but heard the UI leaves much to be desired (IIRC strobe was in the main menu, or something about the order of modes was crappy)?
I have a Nitecore Tm28 i want to do an emitter swap on, the pcb appears to be glued to the body, not screwed like in most cases. the diameter of the opening is only about 1 inch. what would be the best approach to swapping the 4 XHP35? im going for the same led, just in higher CRI and more neutral. any help?