Rather than the thickness, it looks like the apperture wasn’t reduced, sometimes the stencil fab do it themselves, or you have to do it yourself, a 10~15% in pad area reduction is common.
Aside from that to avoid applying too much paste, the stencil needs to be well applied against the board and the paste should be spread only in one pass.
Thanks for the tips!
I don’t even know where to start on reducing the aperture size.
I just uploaded the files I downloaded for the Oshpark PCB I was needing it for.
Oh yeah. I’ve used some of those. Very handy with a 12 vdc power source.
Get them to flash back and forth and you can pull people over
I am so sorry for not helping you but from JLC is very practice and you have only to cut the sides of finish board. If you buy at base level pay attention to the RGB pad, they are so fragile.
That’s when you design the PCB, if you haven’t done it then it’s going to be difficult.
In any case if you get a but too much solder then tap a bit on the T1616 during reflow, then to fix any bridges, drag your iron along the sides.
I plan to design my own PCBs someday, but I’m not there yet.
Very interesting to hear! I’ve been considering one of these 12V quad MCPCBs to put in a convoy s11 to replace the gt-fc40 (mine in 4200k has quite a green tint). How bad was the donut beam? Have you got any photos? I’d hoped dedoming + dc-fix might sort it out, let us know how that goes.
KD also sells 7070 TIRs of roughly the right size for an S11 which also may help produce a decent beam
Lumintop FW21 X1L with SFT-40 LED
FW21 Pro driver for Anduril2 and FET Turbo
Noctigon DM11 5050 MCPCB with glued in 1.5mm spacers around it to center the MCPCB
Not exactly a fancy mod compared to emitter swaps, and custom drivers, but this was todays for me.
Waiting on replacement SC31Pro, so carrying my SP10Pro for the first time in months. But I’ve gotten used to the larger 18650 or even 18350 form factor; now the SP10 is a bit short to use comfortably.
So, edited the files for the custom tail cap I did last month, and printed a handle extension. Orange PETG because thatx what was in the printer, and its a nice complimentary look anyway.
In the ~month I’ve had the mag cap on it, almost 3 weeks of carry, I’ve not used the magnet, and I Never tail stand a light anyway. So, I went with fast and easy for a loop atachment(dont pocket carry, I use a dangler or carabiner). Center 10mm about 8mm deep is printed solid, drilled a pilot hole and cranked a small eyelet/eyebot into it.
Was worried the light would be noticeably head heavy, but with my dangler on it it balances at about exactly the half way point. Feels good, cant tell that the one end is a lighter material at
all.
Life got busy so I put the L6 quad on the shelf for a while.
Doughnut beam was terrible. Perhaps a smaller, orange peel reflector would blend the beam more. I’m yet to try DC fix. When I pick the project back up, I’ll try some DC Fix and post before/after photos.
TIR might be better or could be worse… Only way to find out is to experiment.
I’ll pick up where you left off; carry the torch as it were 
FW1AA with front RGB aux LEDs and reflector :
The TIR optic I used before had artefacts in the spill, but I still wanted front aux with the reflector so I used a flex PCB and tiny RGB LEDs to fit them in the reflector opening.
Wow. Neatly done.
I see you also had to cut out space for those tiny aux LEDs in the spacer. Very clever!
Primary LEDs and aux LEDs are? Very beautiful man
Thanks, I used a fine tip of my soldering iron to do that.
Thanks.
A dedomed 519A 5700K and the aux leds are these : B36S3RGB
Thank you
Oh my goodness, they are so tiny…
HDS Rotary w sw45k got trits 
Nice trits.
