Thrunite T10, with an Eneloop it’s a great tiny light.
I’m not much help, through the week, my upper size limit is a 3up 3 x 18650 tube light……
My standard edc’s are an 18650 tube, a p60 sized 18650 light I built, a tlf mini 02 on my house keys and a zy-t08 in my day sack.
I am however looking to build another 16340 light using a de chipped qlite driver and an xp-g2 for when cavernous pockets are not an option.
My week day edc lights have become part of my work gear so max available output and runtime trump overall size, fancy ui etc.
My ideal edc would be a trustfire t2 with tailcap lockout, that’s all that keeps me from carrying mine more, side clicky, 3 mode nanjg and xp-g 4c makes it a very nice light to use, turning on in the pocket does not, it does go in a dress jacket pocket though as it looks classy enough and lessens the chance of accidental activation.
Photon ReX on the work keys.
TLF Mini-02 on the car key (Which may change as it keeps hitting me on the knee)
Tank007 E09 on the house keys.
Plus whatever's in the work bag. Currently a Uranusfire C3 and a Spark NW headlamp - and an SRK just in case...
:bigsmile: of course!
Well it might just get very dark suddenly :)
The sun rises here around 4:30am and it doesn't get dark till around 11pm at the moment. One of the advantages (or disadvantages if you like artificial light) of living at 57 degrees north in the "summer".
It snowed 20 miles from here last week. Just look at the weather reports for the A939 (Blocked by snow last Thursday) which is 55 miles west of here.
I typically EDC 1 light which varies depending on my mood.
For me, my EDC flashlight is combination pocket toy / tool. I don’t really need it for work. I look for the following in my EDC:
- Small size suitable for pocket carry (1x18350 or 1x14500 or smaller. 1x18650 is too large).
- Pocket rocket - I like having a light that is as bright as possible that I can wow people with. Long runtime at max power isn’t needed… that’s what modes are for.
- single-cell - Having read up on the risks of multi-cell li-ion lights I’ve decided I prefer single cells.
- Floody beam suitable for short range use - When I use my light it’s usually looking at something up close. I rarely need throw in my lights, though having the option to throw is nice.
- One-handed operation - I like lights that are easy to use with one-hand. This means clickies or magnetic rings. I consider twisty lights like the DQG18650 too unreliable when used with one hand.
My current rotation varies among the following (I mod my own lights):
- Heavily modded Sipik 58 zoomie - anodizing removed and aluminum polished up. Dr Jones 2.8 amp Nangj 105c driver with shortcuts to ultra-low, 10% and max, plus 2-way ramping. Rebuilt switch mechanism and electronic switch. Reflector added and aluminum heatsink added. Zoom mechanism adjusted with stops added. Emitter is a 5,000k XM-L2 neutral on a 16mm sinkpad. Runs on AW IMR 14500. (probably around 800-850 lumens out the front in flood mode)
2. Heavily modded Sipik 58 zoomie - anodizing removed and aluminum polished up. Zoom mechanism removed by epoxying sliding bezel to body. Running on 3.04 amp Nangj 105c driver from International Outdoors. Set as a 4-mode driver with ultra-low. Completely rebuilt pill with copper heatsink added. Lens and bezel ring replaced with flat lens. Emitter is 3xNichia 219 4500k 92 CRI on a parallel 20mm triple star with triple TIR optic. (approximately 500-550 lumens)
3. Heavily modded Roche F12 - anodizing removed and aluminum polished up. Emitter replaced with 3x XP-G2 on parallel 20mm triple star with triple TIR optic. Copper heatsink added below star. Driver replaced with 5.0 amp driver from International Outdoor. Driver has 4 mode groups which can be toggled by leaving the light in one group for 10 seconds until it blinks then doing a half-press to cycle to the next group (group 1: high, med, low; group2: ramping from ultra low to max with option to stop anywhere in the ramp; group 3 various strobe modes; group 4: single mode max power). Body tube cut in half and 3.3 cm section removed from center of tube, then rods drilled and tube glued back together changing tube from 1x18650 to 1x18350 size. Runs exclusively on AW IMR 18350. This one is my brightest light (approx 1000-1100 lumens)
4. Modded Jetbeam RRT-01 - reflector and driver replaced with ones from a Niteye EYE10. Head disassembled and magnetic ring lubed up for a much smoother feel with no metal grinding. Emitter swapped to 5,000k XM-L2 neutral. (approx 700-750 lumens out the front)
5. Zebralight SC52 cool white. Unmodded. (500 lumens)
6. Modded Eagletac D25c Ti 2013 edition. Emitter swapped to 5,000k XM-L2 neutral. (450-500 lumens)
what benefit did the RRT01 driver swap provide?
I think the EYE10’s driver is higher current than the stock driver on the RRT-01. The light is brighter than my TCR-01 using the same XM-L2 neutral emitter but with the stock RRT-01/TCR-01 driver.
This explains why reviewers rated the stock EYE10 about 21% brighter than the stock RRT-01 with both lights running on IMR 18350 (668 lumens for EYE10 vs. 550 for RRT-01). If they had been using the same current driver the EYE10 should only have been about 7% brighter due to its U2 emitter.
On a much more minor note the EYE10’s driver has both a hidden strobe and hidden SOS vs. the RRT-01’s driver which only has the SOS.
Interesting. Thanks for the info. Why not just buy an eye10 then? Not being a smartass, genuinely curious… have considered buying each of those lights, but not both.
Actually I have an EYE10. The problem with it is it has other things I disliked compared to the RRT-01:
- The EYE10’s control ring is only half knurled which makes it very awkward to use one-handed.
- The EYE10’s anodizing is slicker than on the RRT-01 which makes it even harder to grip.
- The EYE10 has 16 detentes on the control ring. These give the light effectively 16 preset brightness settings, but you lose the ability to make fine adjustments in brightness between those settings. Despite having a driver that is infinitely variable, these mechanical detentes on the ring effectively destroy the flexibility of being infinitely variable.
- The detentes on the ring make the EYE10’s ring very noisy. It sounds like a zipper when cycled quickly.
On the other hand the EYE10 does some things better than the RRT-01:
- Higher power driver with more hidden modes.
- Orange Peel reflector (though to be fair, the later model RRT-01s also use OP reflectors).
I had both lights and mixed and matched to make what I consider to be a better light than either. I also upgraded to a stronger emitter than either, and one with neutral tint.
Very helpful, thanks
I like both of these:
Good topic. To me, an EDC must be…
1) lightweight
2) small
3) the ability to tailstand (preferred, anyway)
4) is cheap and can be lost/washed/used in self-defense
I flip between the 501B with U2 XM-L (Intl Outdoors) and the Sipik. Took the latter around the block tonight. it’s got one little Eneloop inside and the sucker illuminates crazy well for a device of such humble status.
I occasionally EDC a Prairie Fire (980L clone) and a modded V3 (XM-L U3). All great lights.
Lately have been using the Zebralight SC52, with 14500 in it. It's extremely small, tail stands, and hits 500 lumens on high for a minute, if needed.
I also EDCed the S6330, but only when the weather was cold enough for a jacket. It's just slightly too big for comfort in my jeans pocket.
Other lights I have EDCed; Surefire 6p with several different drop ins, Crelant V11A, Balder HD1, Jetbeam BC25, Crelant 7G3CS (7G6CS is just too damn big for pocket carry :(), Eagletac G25CSII, modded Skyray T6S3, Sipik, and BLF A8.
For me at the moment it’s the trustfire R5A3 small, 14500, bright and a clip.
I am curious if you would be so kind as to let us know what it took to swap the emitter to an XM-L2 in the RRT-01. Is it on a star?
Yes, it comes on it’s own star. The stars in the RRT-01 and EYE10 are aluminum. The TCR-01 comes with a copper star. You can either use the star it came with or swap in your own star. It’s been awhile since I opened it, but I think a standard 16mm star fits.
Changing the emitter isn’t hard. Unscrew the bezel ring, tilt the light so the lens and reflector fall out. The star will be revealed. It’s not hard. However, there is one thing you should be aware of:
Due to the magnetic ring, the head actually comes apart into 3 pieces: The bezel ring, the upper head section (part between the bezel ring and the magnetic ring), and the lower head section (the part below the magnetic ring with the threads for the battery tube). The upper head and lower head sections are screwed together underneath the magnetic ring.
VERY IMPORTANT: When you unscrew the stainless steel bezel ring make sure that the part unscrewing is actually the bezel ring and not the upper-head to lower head threads. I had no problems with my EYE10 and RRT-01 … the stainless steel ring came off with no difficulties (the upper-head to lower-head threads are threadlocked). However, with my TCR-01, when I tried to unscrew the bezel ring, the wrong threads were actually unscrewing. This caused one of the driver wires to break and due to the construction of the driver, it could be quite difficult to fix.
The only time you’ll need to unscrew the upper head from the lower head is if you wish to relube the magnetic ring. If you wish to do that, make sure to completely remove the driver from the light before attempting so as not to break the driver wires.
Thank you very much sir! Ordering an RRT-01 right now 
If they started putting xp-g2 in these it might breathe life back into an old classic.