~$60 in emitters and pcbs, plus the time spent modding….yeah, not economic if just fulfilling a need for a flashlight, but I do this for fun…
dthrckt, is it really 6S, 25V? I thought it was 2s3p for 8.4V with a ton of current carrying capability. There are no carriers, so why would it be 21V?
Oh, do you mean the emitter voltage? OK, that makes more sense.
I think the Russian forum was showing the 1.7A as emitter current, so losses are already factored out. I think it really is 37W at the emitters.
I also think the main issue is the driver getting hot. I can drive my 5xXM-L Solarforce clone at 12.6A (2.5A/emitter) for 10 minutes and it gets HOT, but not so hot that I will not try for 15A J)
yes, I think you’re right 2s3p. I thought that for an instant when I saw they said 22V, but assumed the batteries were all in series w/o thinking about how that would physically work. I suppose it could only work if a battery carrier were used.
thanks for pointing that out. it makes it seem less like a pipe bomb, and means output would be higher than I thought.
If I buy it, I’ll stick w/ their recommendation, but definitely pot the driver, in the hope it will survive longer and be a little more efficient.
so, if 37W to emitters, and xml2 on copper sinkpads, the 4300 estimate should be pretty close - and OTF…not just emitter lumens!
Or, bump it up to 2.2A / 45W with XM-L2 U2 on copper, and go for 5000 OTF J)
I really do not need another host to work on; I should stop following this thread now 
I must be missing something. It could be all series without a carrier.
Driver positive
++>
<--<
>++
Body negative
Am I incorrect in my thinking?
i think the the battery contact board in the head would have to look different if the batteries that touch it didn’t have all the same pole
I see. I’ve only seen pics of the outside…
Replaced inductor and mosfet. On stock 1.5 A max)
1.7A measured on the diodes! 37,5W mean 5.3 W on the diode. Losses in the driver does not need to consider)))
U2 gives 130lm/Vt at 1.7 A, we obtain 4800lm. Losses on the reflector and glass output about 4000lm)) Sorry for my English, Google Translate (((
Could you give details on the parts used?
Got an L3 from lightmalls today.
Machining and finish are excellent except one scratch on the bezel, which looks like it happened before anodizing.
UI is almost good -
- no blink at ends of ramping
- strobe should not be in the 3 modes available from the big button
- should be preset, high, low
- from off, small switch only works as momentary for high for a second or two (for signaling) but when held, ramping begins (this is already available when the light is on, so there’s no need)
This light is pretty darn heavy w/ all the cells loaded…but I wanted the extended runtime, so I guess I’ll deal w/ that.
It will probably be my favorite light after modding - and if I can figure out how to reprogram the chip for a better UI, it will DEFINITELY be my favorite light.
Nice! Any idea of OTF lumens?
and all my hobby stuff (including meters) is packed up to move, and it isn’t dark yet, so its hard to compare, but it seems a bit less than my DRY on turbo.
which sounds weak….but the up side…I doubt heat will be much of an issue and it should run that bright for over 2 hours w/ good cells…
Is 20ma drain on standby correct? Sitting on the shelf turned off, the batteries will drain after a few weeks. I have flashlights that don’t use much more than that when they are turned on!
Isn’t there a diminishing point of returns once you start cramming so many LED’s together? I mean 7… seems like overkill to me, especially in one reflector. Look at the Nitecore Tm26, with 4 LED’s each housed in its own reflector. Of course it’s more expensive to have them separate, but you make better use of them.
For me, I’d think that 3 LED’s in a single reflector would be about the maximum before you start seeing little improvement with additional LED’s crammed adjacent.
you have a valid point
BUT
efficiency is the answer to your question
this is over simplifying a bit, but look at the xm-l figures here
1 xm-l at 3A = 881 lumen
3 xml at 1A each = 11 76 lumen
or
881 lumen with 1xml takes 3A
~881 lumen with 3xml takes 2.2A
ie 25% more run time
in addition, I have little need for several hundred meters of throw (if it also has spill). so, cramming them together with little reflectors is a benefit for me, instead of 4 larger reflectors.
Also, FandyFire L3? $58.74 Same light??
(after coupon code: SSZZCCSS)
Not sure how but ChibiM got one for $15, maybe on the “InstantKill”?
?page=13#comment-399744
Yes, it was Instant Kill, lucky Bass Turd. 
So after 4 pages of reading I still am not seeing a general consensus of whether or not this light is any good? Nor any beam shots??
FF have the Solarforce L3 for $69 at the moment which is pretty cheap. I’m trying to decide if it is worth it or if not, what is better for that price?
Also would 6x 3000mAh Trustfire Flames be alright in it do you think?
I like mine, and think it is worth the money.
TF flames? personally, no, I wouldn’t do that. ok for 1 cell lights, maybe 2 - but 6?! only if i was giving the light to someone i really didn’t like.