Especially the tip about where to hold the head, I do not want to open that. Mine is smooth as butter, and as far as I'm concerned it's powered by magic and I don't wanna let that out.
When the going gets tough I make a set of these.
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Haven’t found a light yet a set want open. It was the only thing that would open My V10R, Sunwayman used the dreaded red loctite. I tried everything including lots of heat while trying to break it loose. Spent a hour or two making some aluminum clamps and put one in the vise and the other with a big adjustable wrench tighten down. You would think with that much leverage it spin right off, nope took quite a bit of effort even then. I honestly thought I was gonna break it I turned so hard. Red loctite is no joke when they apply a little to much. I’m just glad no one else seems to use it.
Funny thing, Honda (or their dealers?) sometimes used red loctite on the screws for their key fobs. Customers would have to take them to Honda to be drilled out, or risk breaking a key fob that cost $70-150 to replace. All over a tiny lithium coin cell that cost at most $4 retail.
I tried with one strap wrench and my hand, but the rrt-01 resisted. I'll grab one of my old belts (don't mind ruining it with pliers marks) and try again some time.
@scallywag
I used painters tape wrapped about 20 times with vise grips on each piece to remove all mine but one. So far the original RRT01’s haven’t been that bad, shouldn’t take but a few more pounds of torque than what you can turn just using a hand grip. I did have one that I taped up and turned off by hand without the vise grips. The tape gave me enough grip to twist it loose. I guess it all depends on how much glue they use on each light. The glue on these I have seen has been some kind of clear milky looking glue.
If you can get a little better grip it should break loose.
I recently opened a TCR1 and the bezel just wouldn’t budge. I had to use the V11R aluminum clamps (same size head) to get it break loose. The two piece head came apart just by hand but the bezel had been over glued, just my luck.
My second order of the KD reflectors I found to work, came in today. I replaced the factory one in a 219b sw45k emitter swapped TCR1 today, turned out great vs the factory one.
Since these KD reflectors have a very lite orange peel, I thought I might try the Old-Lumens splatter effect and see if that smooths the whole beam out even further.
Just to verify, we are talking about the 2019 RRT-01, right? If so, does the new reflector deminish the throw of the original? Is it a choice between having rings and throw or having none?
Can you please provide the link for the reflector?
Yes I used that lens. Probably just the thickness of the mcpcb as I am using the original. Guess I have to find some motivation to sand it thinner one day. Thanks for the help.
Nope older original model RRT01 and TCR1 alike.
Old-Lumens called it stipple. Video - How I Stipple a Reflector
I have used it several times with great results.
I put a 20mm “convoy” tir lens in my 2019 rrt-01. Very easy drop-in only a fat oring is needed under the bezel ring to compensate a smal height difference.
Original RRT-01 driver, reflector, and pocket clip supplies available.
I learned thanks to moderator007 that the driver in the 2019 RRT-01 also fits the Original RRT-01, and the TCR-1. He also found 2 reflectors that are drop in replacements for the Original RRT-01 and NiteEye10, to improve the beam.
Image courtesy of moderator007
1. Eye10 driver has strobe
2. The 2019 RRT-01 uses the Eye10 driver.
3. Eye10 driver can be purchased individually from info (at) jetbeamlight.com
4. Eye10 driver fits in the TCR-1 and Original RRT-01
5. Upgraded eflectors to fit Original RRT-01, and the Eye10 and TCR-1, are available from Kaidomain, more info here: WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion] - #487 by moderator007
6. Short pocket clips are available from jetbeam also, thanks to toddcshoe for the info. The short clips fit both the Original and 2019 RRT-01, as well as the TCR-1 and NiteEye Eye10.