Instead of moving data, you can just share directories between the Linux host and the Windows VM: in VirtualBox for example, you can just set a “Shared Folder” in the VM configuration. It’s simple, fast and just a few clicks on the VirtualBox GUI.
I do that all the time in my daily use, just to give you an example: when I’m working on scanning text pages, FineReader (Windows-only software) does much better OCR than any Linux-compatible software I have ever seen, so I use it. What I do is to use VirtualBox to configure a Shared Folder of the Linux directory I’m working on in the VM, mapping it to a Windows drive letter (eg, D:); then I use XSane in Linux (a much better scanning sofware than anything in Windows) to scan the text pages into separate PNG files directly to that directory, then I do a simple to switch to the VM running Windows plus Finereader, then use it to OCR, correct and concatenate these images into a PDF, then switch back to Linux ( again) and finally i use PDFTK for the final touches (turning on PDF encryption if the document demands it, fine-tuning access restrictions, manipulating metadata, etc – all in the command-line and much simpler and more automatable than using the likes of Acrobat and other Windows software), and finally I’m done.
During all of that, I don’t need to copy a single file either in or out: everything is always at the exact place where I want it to be, and is worked on in place.
Nope, unfortunately not yet. The logistics to have it delivered to where I am right now (and specially to where I plan to be in the 4-6 weeks it will take to arrive) are complicated, and I just managed to settle on an address Terry will be able to ship to with a good chance that it will one day reach my grubby hands :-). WIll know if I got it right, and have more to say about the HD10 proper, after that interval. Will keep the thread posted! and thanks for asking.
I take that assumption back – you are obviously familiar with Linux. But perhaps I’m still able to help in some way, by sharing my M.O. and/or more specific knowledge. If that’s the case please let me know via a PM or by opening a new topic and and it will be my pleasure – good flashlighters don’t let fellow flashlighters suffer a garbage OS if they can help it. Otherwise I will from now on stay silent on this, both to avoid steering the discussion more off-topic than I already did, and possibly bothering you with irrelevant suggestions.
When will HD10 be available to order at Your website? I don’t kwo whether to order TD01C + TS10 pink now or to wait for HD10 to show up and buy all 3 at once.
I did some voltage checking with the tube off but plugged into USB. The four solder joints on the right in the picture are negative so incidental contact with those two top and bottom ones may not be a problem. The surface of the green PCB board does sit slightly proud of the brass outside ring. So the thick end of the tube is definitely going to press down on some of those tracks that get right out to the edge of the green PCB. I don’t see that as being a good thing and like I said, Wurkkos took the extra time and effort to ensure that the tube did not touch anything green.
@Wurkkos_Terry any update on shipping replacements for the failed HD10 samples, or on the failed ones in general? I was planning to work on a review from mine but I only managed to get about half of a run worth of data and no beamshots before it failed, so I’m stalled on that without another one.
Mine has malfunctioned at least four times today. There were many more times where it worked properly. I could be wrong but it seems that it only malfunctions after it’s been idle for a while. I never actually needed it for anything I was just pulling it out to test. It is in advanced UI. I’ve been shutting it off at the lowest end of the ramp. Light is off with auxiliaries on low red. 1C and the auxiliaries go out but no main LEDs come on. 1C and the low red auxiliaries come back on. 1C and the main LEDs come on in the lowest setting. That has happened three separate times today. The most recent incident, 1C The auxiliaries went out and no main LEDs. 1C and the auxiliaries came back on. 1C and the auxiliaries went out but no main LEDs. 1C and the auxiliaries came back on. 1C and the auxiliaries went out but no main LEDs. At that point I just pressed and held for a few seconds. Nothing. 1C and the auxiliaries came back on. 1C and the main LEDs came on at the top of the ramp.
So that tells me that while the main LEDs were not on, it was registering a press and hold to ramp up to the top of the ramp. Maybe that helps somebody diagnose what’s going on.
I will never trust this light.
I know a lot of people like 14500 lights. And eventually some people may be able to use this one. For me it’s too small except for very limited close up use. I did use it for five nights as my nightstand bathroom trip light. But I missed the 3000k and wider view of my armytek. I also took it on one 10 minute hike on a trail in pitch dark while mounted in the headband. It was usable but again I missed the above. And I did carry it for a week in the change pocket because I don’t have any other good pocket to commit it to with a clip or in the bottom of a pocket. So even if I could trust it and it was available in 3000K I don’t believe I would ever actually really use it other than potentially as a nightstand light or maybe close up task headlight. I would never carry it.
Here it is with a modified tube and a convoy clip with the body bands bent tighter.
I carry the other two lights daily. The S6 short tube with a 3000K SFT40 is in a horizontal belt pouch. The armytek from killzone with 3000k is clipped in a left side cargo pocket.
I have had mine for a week or so. Fortunately I have not had any problems with the light failing to work as it should. Pretty strange that this doesn’t affect all of the lights. But if it is a production problem, maybe it is easier to fix. If it is a component problem, that could be more costly. To replace components on existing lights and fully screen all of the parts in stock for future builds will be time consuming.
So far I like the light. It is fine for the type of things that I do with a headlamp this size. It is good for reading. I have used it for walking around the house at about 25/150 it is good for not killing night vision but seeing the entire width of my hallway to avoid obstacles. I used it for checking my oil and for grilling food. I will probably put it in my car for emergency use. For a light headlamp for short term use (cell capacity), I think it is a nice little headlamp.
Obviously they need to fix the problems that people are having before I can recommend it.
BTW, I don’t know if it makes any difference to the issues that have been experienced, but I leave the AUX lights turned off. But then I almost always disable AUX lights on everything I have that has them.
I have one TS10 on the nightstand that I turn on low red aux at bedtimes and off in the morning. As with all of my E-switch lights, I mechanically lock out the HD10. Maybe these things could be valuable in trying to track down the fault.
If they had not made it next to impossible to get the bezel off without half destroying the light, I have an idea that the members here could have helped in troubleshooting the problem.
Strange that @Wurkkos_Terry has been silent on this. He is usually very responsive to this sort of thing.
I suspect TK keeps records of what kind of bugs various versions have. So is it related to bugs? I have no idea. I know that TK has told Terry to tell wurkkos to use the most up-to-date version of Anduril in the past. So why are they not doing that? I wasn’t going to mess with the auxiliary lights but I figured I would use them to test as much as I reasonably can.
If I get five thumbs up on this I’ll pry that bezel off and get some good pictures.
Actually, with some solder wick and a decently powerful iron it’s pretty easy to open non-destructively, I’m sure I will get it back together and it will look as good as new once I’m done!
you wanna flash the latest firmware ? also, why did they hide them? any chance they can be exposed in the production pcb ? can you download firmware that is flashed to it ?
Not easily, the controller and everything but the FETs and the 7135 sits on the vertical small PCB. It would need additonal contacts from the vertical to the round PCB to expose them properly
I will probably solder a tiny cable breakout to keep them accessible after reassembling.
Do they have the firmware for this published anywhere? If not I have to reverse engineer the whole PCB to create a Anduril target myself, which sounds like a ton of effort. II will try, but that might take a while. First I want to reverse engineer the basics of the power stage out of curiosity
To get the LEDs out you need to somehow pry the bezel off, I do not see that happening without mechanical damage
