Mod Update1: Emitter swap, XM-L U2, driver swap, NANJG 105C w 12×7135 (4.2A), beefier wire, copper braid on springs. I also moved the emitter slightly further into the reflector. Now the hotspot is a little larger but just as bright as the HD2010. This light has become my favorite ‘pocket’ thrower. The only issue is heat sag after about 5 minutes. That darm hollow pill isn’t quite cutting it. Maybe a direct copper U3 is in order… I’ll do a mod thread when I get a chance.
Edit: Beamshots for Mod Update 1, compared to my HD2010
I forgot a control shot. It was a full moon so there was enough light to produce a dim light in the background. The shots are good enough to compare to one another.
Aleto 70m:

HD2010 70m:

Aleto 100m:

HD2010 100m:

Aleto 150m:

HD2010 150m:

Aleto 200m:

HD2010 200m:

100% crops of the hotspots. It’s a very tight race:

Both light are driving at 4.2A (HD2010 was probably closer to 4.5A). The HD2010 has the larger reflector, but the Aleto has a U2. I prefer the spot on the Aleto, it’s much more defined and uniform. I’m wondering if there is something wrong with my HD2010… alignment??? It does seem to be producing a lot of spill, which may mean it’s too deep in the reflector. I’ll have to mess around with it one of these days.
If I was forced to pick a winner, I’d give a very slight edge to the HD2010.

Nice review, a bit more info on this light.

Thanks for the review relic38. If it was driven any harder the LED would more than likely have a very short life span. For $16.80 it is a real budget light though.

This never got a proper review until now, thanks for doing one. I use my UltraOk as a AAA light only so I don’t worry about the heat.

Me too.  I haven't yet got around to modding the pill with a slug.  Interesting branding on your sample as mine (and many others) are an UltraOK version.  The current spacing sucks!  Medium is way too close to high! 

For comparison, my tailcap readings were:

King Kong 26650:
HI-3.80A
Med-1.85A
Low-0.90A

4AAA NiMh:
HI-2.80A
Med-1.57A
Low-0.83A

-Garry

I’m thinking of ordering the one linked in the other forum post as well. This one had issues with battery length that no one mentioned over there. I suppose I could fix that by adding a longer, stronger spring on the driver.
I’ve added copper braid to the springs and that increased the output a bit, especially the tail spring. I’ll post my mod details in the second post later on.
As for the heat, I just ran it around 2.6A for 10 minutes. The outer head temp was 48C and the emitter temp was 69C (running off power supply, the body was not installed). The head temperature starts rising within 10 seconds of turning the light on indicating thermal coupling is probably OK.
Based on this, I think it’s fine to leave the pill hollow and simply redistribute the thermal paste to the edge. You just have to make sure that the retaining ring is pushing down firmly on the star.

Did you catch the info in the other thread about replacing the tailcap switch with the Solarforce one? I bought the switch, but haven't replaced mine. 

-Garry

Nice review!

I have the ultra ok version and have issues with my flat top 26650’s. I have stretched the spring and that has helped but if you shake it (not very hard) it will change modes. Still have not done much with mine since filling in the hollow spot. Been thinking lately that maybe it should get a new driver. Maybe this one from fasttech . But will still probably have the issue with battery contact. Just want to keep it capable of using the 4xAAA’s and liths.

I added some mod updates to the second post. There is definitely a lot of potential in this host. I know the HD2010, with the same emitter and drive can probably outdo it, but there’s something I like about this light… I can’t put my finger on it. The HD2010 will get a turn too, when I can get my copper sinkpads

So what did you do to hold the driver in place, anything special? Thanks

Post some drive pics thanks

When I put up my mod thread, I’ll have some pics. Basically, I drilled two holes through the existing driver, Fujik’ed the NANJG to the battery side, and ran the LED wires through the holes.
This solved my battery contact problem too, by making the battery compartment about 7mm shorter
@ 4 A, I should get about an hour of use with a decent 26650.
I need to solve the heat issue though. There’s about a 30 degree delta between the emitter and body… got to fill that pill.

Fill that pill with pieces of cut large gauge bare copper wire and fill it with solder. I've done it once and posted some pics. Cheap, simple and easy. Go to Home Depot and get one foot of ground wire used to ground a houses circuit breaker box. I got 4ga wire, 2 feet for a couple bucks. 

-Garry

I’ve updated the second post with beamshots comparing the current mod to my (possibly badly aligned) HD2010.

Thanks for awesome review !

Im all NiMh person, but I will be buying lithium powered lights for specific tasks such as cycling(have couple of cheapo C8 from Ebay) and for some mega throwers, so this review helped me figure out which of those sub 20$ lights from Ebay are worht it !

Nice review, thanks!

A bit of offtopic here: does anyone know where can I buy the 4 x AAA carrier alone?

I’m glad my review has helped. I am having some fun with this host, so it was worth it for me, even with the issues.

As for a source for the 4xAAA holder, I’ve had no luck. I would like to have a couple as they do work well in 26650 lights.

Some of us looked, but can't find them without being forced to buy a huge quantity. Someone tell FastTech to carry them. 

-Garry

Thanks very much! Frontpage’d and Sticky’d.

On sale under $16 AUD

Thank YOU for taking the hit on this one!! Also thank you for the details!!! You just saved me (and others, I’m sure) whatever this torch might cost!

There should be no excuse for such horrible looking threading!! It is just too easy to keep the Machine Tools in calibration. Especially, (assuming there is any) QC should be more sensitive to the places that will wear most. The rest of the threading will likely not be used more than a few times ever. The tailcap gets a new grinding every time you change batteries! Looking at yours, how long would you expect them to last in regular use?

Also, the pill looks nearly impossible to mod, unless you have some way of turning MCPCBs… That overly-precise edge-only fit not only limits vital heat transfer, it kicks this one the rest of the way under the bus…

THANK YOU again for bringing this to the world!!

Dim

I have bought 4 of these so far, all the threads on mine were good.

2 I have already gifted to friends as 4xAAA torches, I and they are more than happy with the lights. All in all, very decent for the money.

I guess there is always variation in production runs.

Lacking that, THANK YOU AGAIN for BLF and all who contribute here!!!

I say they are rough, but I should add that they do not feel as rough as they look. Because the threads on the body tube are smooth, threading the parts together are not too bad. I tried cleaning them up a bit, but it didn’t help much. The tailcap on my light was just not up to the quality level of the rest of the light. I’m thinking of ordering one from the other seller (UltraOK branded) just to see if it’s any different… and to have one to give away, since I’m liking this light enough that I will want to replace it when I do give it away

Excellent Review, but I think the Aleto U2 won (look at the right edges of the comparative beamshots).

Hi,

Would this work for you all:

http://www.fasttech.com/products/1630/10003869/1290102-4aaa-serial-cylin…

Jim

Nice, but for 26650 replacement, it needs the brass nub on top to make it 65mm long. This would be an easy mod, so I’m glad the option is there. Thanks!

A magnet might work? But, it looks like the top metal part is rounded. It’d be a lot better/safer if it was flattened so a magnet would stay still :(…

Jim

How’s about this one? Would this work with a magnet on top (better)?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-Cylindrical-type-AAA-Plastic-Battery-Holder…

Jim

Ohaya, that is a 3xAAA holder, which would not be a good option. A 4xAAA holder with a positive end brass plunger would work best. That is what the light came with, so we know they exist.

Relic,

Re: NANJG 105C w 12×7135 (4.2A), which one did you use? From Kaidomain?
Can’t find a 20mm from FastTech.

It’s a standard 105C mounted on the existing driver. Since there was so much space in the battery compartment, it made my unprotected cells fit perfectly. I think there’s a pic of it somewhere… if I find it I’ll post.
Edit: Here’s how I did it. I’ve read that the UltraOK does not have as much extra space on the battery side, so the drive could go in the pill on that model.

Thanks for the review. Just ordered this light. Not bad for $16

No problem! Glad I could help you spend a little of your money, even if it’s only $16 of it.

What comes around goes around.

Nice review and mods relic38. Dig that driver mod. This light looks like a really good deal.

Hi,

I just got one of these (late, I know). Was there ever a mod thread (that was mentioned above)?

For the driver, I understand to mount a Nanjg on top of the existing driver, but were there any pics about the emitter side?

Thanks,
Jim

Here are some pics of the mod I did to fill the hole in the pill. Also this is also the origional thread. Give it a look a few modded the pill in different ways.
Link to post with info]

Hi apt323,

Thanks.

One thing I don’t get. On that thread:

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/11421

they were reporting tailcap current like 3 – 4 amps, and seemed like with stock. As mentioned above, I’m only seeing 1.47 amps on the one I have. Were the driver and/or emitter on the light in that thread different than the light that I have?

I’d probably be happy if I was seeing 3-4 amps now .

For the original driver, I think just left the components and drilled two holes in it. It’s just a backing plate for the NANJG now. I stopped at 4A, but with better heatsinking this host could handle 5A for 5 minutes or so anyway.
Good luck with the mods, I’ll try and answer questions if they come up.

relic,

I saw what you did with the driver. Pretty clever .

But, what about the emitter? According to a couple of posts (garry, I think) measured the hole where the original emitter PCB rests on top of as being ~22.5mm, but is there such a thing as a 22.5 mm+ emitter PCB? I thought that 20mm were the largest?

Also, any idea how come they were seeing 3+ amp tailcap current, whereas I’m only seeing 1.47 amps, even with an IMR battery?

I had to reuse the one it came with. It’s not bad, nice and thick. I just reflowed an XM-L U2 on it. You could leave it as is, the T6 is still throwing fine. If you go XM-L2 and want to punch it in the face with 5A+, you should do the pill filler from that other thread. I would rather have copper as a base for that electron flow rate though. The benefits roll off fast above 4A when not on a sinkpad.

So, just use the T6 emitter it came with, and change the driver to a Nanjg, and I’d see the higher currents (and performance)?

I have these drivers from FT coming in:

8* AMC7135 4-Group 2~5 Modes LED Flashlight Driver Circuit (Generic)11
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1127403

4* AMC7135 2-Group 3/5 Modes LED Flashlight Driver (Nanjg 101-AK-A1)
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1122401

I’m guessing you’d recommend the 2nd one above then, because it’s a Nanjg?

Edit: And basically just Fujik the new driver to the old driver, and run the wires from the new driver up to the emitter?

I’ve used the first driver. Crappy modes, but it gets the job done.
The second one you will have to add a lot of chips to get 4A. Add four for 2.8A, which is respectable.
I keep forgetting that not everyone will automatically upgrade the tail spring and the emitter wire gauge. I always add copper braid to the tail spring. I also go with heavier gauge wire (20ga in this case). Without these mods, you may not get 4A. 2.8A maybe, but do the tailcap spring anyway, it keeps things in regulation longer.
Edit: I fujik’ed the new driver wight to the contact side of the original. This with the long spring was perfect for a 65-68mm cell. It was waaaaaay too sloppy before, would not even make contact.

Relic,

“Sounds like a plan”, I probably will go with the 1st one. I’m still kind of “mode” agnostic still, but I am now becoming more aware of tints.

Just out of curiousity, since I haven’t done this stuff before, going from 1.47 amp to 2.8 amps, is the difference in brightness really noticeable?

I’m trying to “set my expectations”, because I was expecting to, but haven’t been, blown over by this light so far, esp. reading the earlier posts about people seeing 3+ amps out-of-box.

Yeah, not sure why your amps are so low, but you’ll fix that right up nice
You will notice a difference between double the current from 1.4A to 2.8A, for sure.
At 3’ish Amps into a T6 on this light, expect 600-700 lumens and 40-45kcd of throw. Remember, you did it for under $20

relic38 wrote:

Yeah, not sure why your amps are so low, but you’ll fix that right up nice
You will notice a difference between double the current from 1.4A to 2.8A, for sure.
At 3’ish Amps into a T6 on this light, expect 600-700 lumens and 40-45kcd of throw. Remember, you did it for under $20 ;)

Ok, thanks.

So you thinking that it is odd that I’m not seeing the 3+ amps out-of-box? I keep wondering if, over time, the manufacturer might’ve changed the design/specs. I guess I should pull the driver out to see if it looks the same as the ones you all had back when?

I saw that there was some discussion about resistance in the switch, but the way that I’m measuring tailcap current, I don’t have the tailcap in the circuit, so resistance in the tailcap would come into play. Since the emitter is still T6, then the only other possiblity would be that the driver design has changed, I think?

If I pulled the driver, and took some pics, could you all be able to tell if it was different than the ones that you all had?

Post them, I can open mine up and compare. I don’t recall the exact amperage I got, but I’m sure it was north of 2A. My main reason for changing the driver was PWM, lower low, and eliminating Disco modes.
Definitely do the tailspring braid mod. I didn’t have an issue with the switch itself, but YMMV.

Hi,

Is the driver retainer ring threaded the opposite from normal, i.e., clockwise, instead of counter-clockwise, to unscrew the driver ring?