CRX FW3A Mods & Teardown

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CRX
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cabfrank wrote:
Great stuff, as always. What would be the best size kapton tape to buy for this?

I have 30mm wide kapton tape, two strips of this will leave a gap of approx 2.0464mm, I cut thinner strips to fill this but it should be fine without.

cabfrank
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Thanks!

fluke
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Is anyone doing trit tail switches/caps?

CRX
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Try to convince DrafterDan to make some for sale Innocent
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1508617#comment-1508617

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I dropped a PM to Neal about FW3A Trit tail caps… he will see if Lumintop is interested in making them?

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

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Very impressive CRX! I like your tailcap tritium design. Thumbs Up

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

CRX
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
I dropped a PM to Neal about FW3A Trit tail caps… he will see if Lumintop is interested in making them?

Cool, might be a great seller, will probably need a redesigned rubber boot too Thumbs Up
CRX
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NeutralFan wrote:
Very impressive CRX! I like your tailcap tritium design. Thumbs Up

Thanks mate, yeah it was about the only way I could do it without machines and retain most of the original machined button look.
This is why I was so dismayed when that wabbit appeared on the final prototype! Big Smile
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CRX wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
I dropped a PM to Neal about FW3A Trit tail caps… he will see if Lumintop is interested in making them?

Cool, might be a great seller Thumbs Up

Right on, he has Glo Caps ….. but Trits are waaaaaaay Cooler! Been eyeing the 1.5×3×9mm retangular trits…… https://www.mixglo.com/store/p49/T1.5×3×9G_Vials.html

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

CRX
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Funny, I’ve been looking at a 4mm x 1.3mm x 7mm rectangular green vial that I can get over here.
It would completely cover the tail switch hole but I also like it as is with the variable brightness due to the GITD backing the trit as I have it now. Decisions decisions.. Smile

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From the diagram I can see you in 8×7135 mode, get 3 times sustainable output, 900 lm, compared to the original FW3A 300lm. How do you explain this enormous improvement? How is it possible?

CRX
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Bypassed springs, thicker LED wires, cleaned & tweaked contacts, Noctigon MCPCB, better thermal paste, the light set to 65°C thermal limit, hand cooled & moving around, not standing alone untouched.
I have working mans hands so can take some abuse Wink
Bearing in mind my sphere is not calibrated the output is close to what others have given for that level.
3x XP-L HI should give around that OTF lumens at 3A.
You may be referring to the stock light set up to 45°C thermal limit?
The thermal limit setting and cooling are factors that will determine the sustained output.
A single XP-L HI v2 running at 1A /65°C should give around 400lm.

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How high sustained output lm do you think it will be possible to attain with a Convoy M3, doing similar mods?

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No idea. I’m not familiar at all with that light. A quick look, it’s pretty big so has a potential to hold brighter for longer.
It’s also not so much the mods but rather what temperature you’re comfortable holding, ambient temp, LEDs, driver etc.
All lights will become heat saturated at some point, obviously the more mass, cooler surroundings etc the longer that will take at a given wattage.

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Do you think it would be possible to epoxy a magnet into the stock button or is it only really doable the way you did? I really would love to make mine magnetic once it arrives. If you think it would be possible, could you check the diameter of the inside so I could source a magnet?

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Yeah I thought about that method.

The internal button cap cavity measurement is around 11.6mm x 1.25mm with the central post removed on my version but I don’t think that size magnet would work too well through the 0.6mm steel, maybe an 11mm x 2mm N52 would do there but using the original rubber boot would be a problem, you would need to play around with some thin silicone sheet to maintain some waterproofing and maybe make a new small nubbin to get the switch working nicely..

The tail cap button is an awkward size, measuring 14.6mm x 0.35mm at the widest point (retaining lip)

The button part is then 13.88mm x 1.4mm.

So if you had maybe a 14mm x 0.5mm or 1mm magnet JB welded onto a 13mm x 1.5mm magnet that could work with some modification.
Best to file off the nickel coating and clean thoroughly the sides that you’re gluing too.

Something like this:

One good thing about the FW3A is the switch is so easy to access you can play around with different ideas no problem.

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Thanks for the info! That’s a pretty good idea to make the button out of magnets. I definitely want to maintain waterproofing. I love EDC lights that have a tail magnet though. I will play around once mine comes in, which might take a little while.

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Awesome mods CRX, would definitely love a trit tail cap button.

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

withoutink
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Your light looks great.

Cheers-

Withoutink

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Hi, nice serious mod man!
Where you buy che switch?

Light addicted

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