26650 Batteries

331 replies [Last post]
BetweenRides
BetweenRides's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 weeks 5 days ago
Title: ★★★★★
Joined: 01/02/2011
Posts: 2913
Location: Chicagoland, USA

Below are some links for 26650 batteries. Feel free to add posts and I'll incorporate with this list in the future. I am making no claims or endorsements as to quality, but if you have links to actual tests, please let me know and I'll include here. Any information you come across related to new cells or chemistries - please share in this thread. Wink after the name denotes suspected capacity inflation by seller - believe at your own risk.


Unprotected Cells:

King Kong INR 4000MAh:  International Outdoor Store $9.47 - Li(NiCoMn)O2.
King Kong INR 4000MAh (Raised Top):  International Outdoor Store $9.97 - Li(NiCoMn)O2.
King Kong ICR 4000mAh:  International Outdoor Store $8.97 - LiCoO2.
King Kong INR 4000mAh:   CN Quality Goods $8.50 - Li(NiCoMn)O2.
King Kong ICR 4000mAh:   CN Quality Goods $7.90 - LiCoO2.

*** Note on King Kong batteries *** Description with ICR26650E on wrapping are typical Li-Ion chemistry: Lithium Cobalt - LiCoO2; Those with INR26650E are Lithium (NCM) Nickel Cobalt Manganese - Li(NiCoMn)O2. If you are using these in multi-cell flashlights, do not mix the two types of batteries. See post #60 for discharge test of ICR26650E version and here for test/review. See this thread for review of INR26650E. Flat top versions may require a magnet or other spacer in multi-cell applications. Note that both versions of KK cells have tested well above rated capacity.

Knot Top 4000mAh: CN Quality Goods $8.50 - LiCoO2.
Lighthound 3500mAh: Lighthound $9.99 - These are Lithium-Manganese (IMR) cells.
Powerizer 4000mAh:  Batteryspace $9.95 - These are Lithium-Manganese (IMR) cells.
Powerizer 3600mAh:  Batteryspace $9.50 - These are Lithium-Nickel-Cobalt Manganese cells. Discharge Test here.
MNKE 3500mAh:  International Outdoor Store $9.35 - These are Lithium-Manganese (IMR) cells. Out-of-Stock.
MNKE 4000mAh:  International Outdoor Store $9.95 - These are Lithium-Manganese (IMR) cells. Out-of-Stock.
Steven Wallace reviewed this battery here.
Tenergy 4000mAh: All-Battery $11.99 - LiCoO2.
No-name Blue 4000mAh:  Buyincoins 2/$15.08 - No information, use at own risk.


Protected Cells:

4Sevens 3900mAh:  4Sevens $14.95
Trustfire 5000mAhWinkManafont $13.33 - Actual capacity is +4500mAh. Benkie's Discharge test here
Trustfire 5000mAhWinkBuyincoins 2/$22.89
Trustfire 4000mAh:  CN Quality Goods $11.50
Trustfire 5000mAhWinkDealextreme 2/$22.80 - Actual capacity is around 4200mAh. HKJ's Discharge test here.
Aliexpress 4500mAhWinkAliexpress 2/$19.99
MarsFire 5000mAhWinkManafont $12.47
Keygos 4800mAhWinkKeygos 2/$17.99 - Use at own risk. Referred to as IMR protected, but description is Li-ion. Discharge test here, actual capacity only 2951mAh.
Hi-Max 4000mAh:  ebay-pingyi.co.ltd 2/$27.50
- Samsung core.


Case Reducers (Allow you to use 18650 cells in a 26650 flashlight):
CN Quality Goods:  $1.00
International Outdoor Store: $1.80

 

If anyone is interested in learning more about Li-Ion battery chemistries (and if you use them you should), here are two excellent sources:

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/the_high_power_lithium_ion
http://www.mpoweruk.com/lithiumS.htm

mitro
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 2 days ago
Title: ★★★★
Joined: 01/25/2011
Posts: 717
Location: Montgomery, IL USA
1. Not me 2.Not that I know

1. Not me Smile

2.Not that I know of.

3.I wouldn't recommend mixing different chemistries regardless of the cell.

4 & 5. Current regulated means just that. Smile The current is regulated in some way. HOW its regulated can vary, but we often (mistakenly) take it to mean something more like constant brightness or constant power. The JM07 from CNQ seems to be the same as the JM07 PRO from intl., so it is a 7x7135 driver that has a 3v low voltage warning.

Even without a low-voltage cutoff, as long as you are talking about a single cell light, you have little to worry about. Multi-cell lights SHOULD have a low voltage cut-off but a lot don't.

P.S. I can always test that Carrot Top cell for you if you need. Smile

BetweenRides
BetweenRides's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 weeks 5 days ago
Title: ★★★★★
Joined: 01/02/2011
Posts: 2913
Location: Chicagoland, USA
Thanks, mitro. mitro

Thanks, mitro.

mitro wrote:

1. Not me :)  That makes 2 of us...

2.Not that I know of.  I was afraid of that, and as mentioned I dont 'Trust' the Trustfire.

3.I wouldn't recommend mixing different chemistries regardless of the cell.  Not really mixing (poor choice of words on my part), just wondering if the IMR is ok to use in the JM07. I think it is, as the original thread Hank posted on the light included the now out of stock IMR battery with the light. I guess I'll go for King Kong from IOS.

4 & 5. Current regulated means just that. Smile The current is regulated in some way. HOW its regulated can vary, but we often (mistakenly) take it to mean something more like constant brightness or constant power. The JM07 from CNQ seems to be the same as the JM07 PRO from intl., so it is a 7x7135 driver that has a 3v low voltage warning.  I understand, and Hikelite responded to the question in the JM07 review. I have a few other lights that work this way, so I should be good.

Even without a low-voltage cutoff, as long as you are talking about a single cell light, you have little to worry about. Multi-cell lights SHOULD have a low voltage cut-off but a lot don't.

P.S. I can always test that Carrot Top cell for you if you need. :)  I can handle the test - I'll let you know if Carrot Top's head explodes. Laughing

garrybunk
garrybunk's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 30 min ago
Title: ★★★★★
Joined: 10/31/2011
Posts: 4830
Location: Johnstown, PA
I've been waiting for a

I've been waiting for a review on those Trustfire 26650 flames for awhile.  Kokopelli did a 1A discharge test and posted here.  Sounded ok, but was waiting for a "real" test at higher discharge rate and what max current they could handle.

-Garry

mitro
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 2 days ago
Title: ★★★★
Joined: 01/25/2011
Posts: 717
Location: Montgomery, IL USA
BetweenRides wrote: Not

BetweenRides wrote:
Not really mixing (poor choice of words on my part), just wondering if the IMR is ok to use in the JM07. I think it is, as the original thread Hank posted on the light included the now out of stock IMR battery with the light. I guess I'll go for King Kong from IOS.

Ahh! Yes either LiCo or LiMn (IMR) is fine. The King Kongs are actually INR which is another chemistry (which I have very little understanding of) and they are all suitable for the JM07.

garrybunk
garrybunk's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 30 min ago
Title: ★★★★★
Joined: 10/31/2011
Posts: 4830
Location: Johnstown, PA
I was steering away from the

I was steering away from the King Kong's due to them not being "protected", but should I?  Are they safe?  What kind of risks still exist with them?

-Garry

Hikelite
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 8 min ago
Title: ★★★★★
Joined: 07/13/2011
Posts: 2619
Location: RO
Current regulated, seems to

Current regulated, seems to be misinterpreted, some believe that current regulated means the light doesn't use PWM.

The body of the JM07-pro is 32mm, that might be a problem with some bike mounts.

I use one KK in the JM07-pro, simply until I cannot use it no more because it stars to flash and goes to low mode.

The problem with unprotected cells is not the flashlights you use them in, is to make sure they don't get over-discharged or over-charged. It would be nice the flashlight you use them in have a low voltage warning and switch to low safe mode.

BTW: I have the ST60, very nice size, quality threads and very bright.

 

 

 

BetweenRides
BetweenRides's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 weeks 5 days ago
Title: ★★★★★
Joined: 01/02/2011
Posts: 2913
Location: Chicagoland, USA
Hikelite wrote: Current

Hikelite wrote:

Current regulated, seems to be misinterpreted, some believe that current regulated means the light doesn't use PWM.

The body of the JM07-pro is 32mm, that might be a problem with some bike mounts.

I use one KK in the JM07-pro, simply until I cannot use it no more because it stars to flash and goes to low mode.

The problem with unprotected cells is not the flashlights you use them in, is to make sure they don't get over-discharged or over-charged. It would be nice the flashlight you use them in have a low voltage warning and switch to low safe mode.

BTW: I have the ST60, very nice size, quality threads and very bright.

You are being especially helpful today, Hikelite!

I have several bike mounts - TwoFish Lockblock and CycloBlock are very flexible and will work fine with larger diameters.

I was disappointed that the ST60 was out of stock, but I am happy to get the JM07, as I probably wouldn't have ordered it otherwise. I like the 1x or 2x flexibility of the ST60, glad to hear you like it. I have the ST50 and the quality is great. It's definitely on my next purchase list, probably from International Outdoor Store.

Hikelite
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 8 min ago
Title: ★★★★★
Joined: 07/13/2011
Posts: 2619
Location: RO
Glad to help BetweenRides,

Glad to help BetweenRides, especially with lights that I also have.

I also have the ST50, it goes well with the ST60, complementary lights and great built quality.

BetweenRides
BetweenRides's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 weeks 5 days ago
Title: ★★★★★
Joined: 01/02/2011
Posts: 2913
Location: Chicagoland, USA
garrybunk wrote: I was

garrybunk wrote:

I was steering away from the King Kong's due to them not being "protected", but should I?  Are they safe?  What kind of risks still exist with them?

-Garry

Garry:  Believe me when I say I am no battery expert. I did some research on IMR (+ Chicago X taught me a thing or two) and INR and here's what I found out:

IMR is a misspelled acronym for LMR - Lithium Manganese Rechargeable. It is a safer chemistry than Lithium ion Cobalt, which is typical chemistry in most Li-ion cells. Safer because it doesn't vent or go nuclear or flame out. That is why most IMR(LMR) batteries are unprotected. Well that and because it costs money to add protection and IMR is not a big seller like Li-ion Cobalt.

INR is suspected to be Lithium Nickel Cobalt Aluminium Dioxide. Again, INR acronym should probably be LNR. That's all I know, but there is a Wiki article on it here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel-lithium_battery  Last entry was 15 months ago, so I suspect Panasonic has moved it out of the experimental stage. It is also supposed to be safer than Li-ion Cobalt and probably does not have protection built in due to cost. I think the Trustfire 26650 you saw is neither of these, rather it is a good old fashioned Li-ion Cobalt and should rightly have a protection circuit. Doesn't mean it actually works, mind you.

As Hikelite and mitro referred tohere and in another thread, unprotected cells should be ok to use in a flashlight that is regulated to warn you below a certain voltage level (usually 3a) by flashing or dropping to medium or low. My Balder BD-2, Uniquefire 3900 and I believe the JM07 all do this. When the light output dips or flashes, you know to either run in a low mode or replace the cell to prevent over-discharge.

garrybunk
garrybunk's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 30 min ago
Title: ★★★★★
Joined: 10/31/2011
Posts: 4830
Location: Johnstown, PA
BetweenRides, Thanks for the

BetweenRides, Thanks for the info!  I have never tested "low voltage protection" in my lights (to even know which ones have it and what it's like to encounter it).  What about charging?  What if the charger decides not to stop at 4.2v?  There's no protection circuit to kick in, so what will happen on one of these cells?

-Garry

Hikelite
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 8 min ago
Title: ★★★★★
Joined: 07/13/2011
Posts: 2619
Location: RO
The great advantage of the

The great advantage of the LiMn cells is low resistance, very little sag. If circuits are added then automatically resistance is added. Some 18650 from Sanyo are rated even for 20A discharge, the AW is rated at 16A discharge, hardly cheap mosfets can do such thing, and then as I mentioned resistance is added.

Chicago X
Chicago X's picture
Offline
Last seen: 42 weeks 3 days ago
Title: ★★★★★
Joined: 07/22/2011
Posts: 3999
Location: See Name
Hikelite wrote:BTW: I have

Hikelite wrote:

BTW: I have the ST60, very nice size, quality threads and very bright.

 

I wish I had seen those pics before now.  I was never impressed with the design, but your photos lend an undeniable air of quality to this torch.

The milled trit slots look much better, for example, than in any mfr. pics out there...

 

Well done.  As if I needed one more thing over which to obsess.

__________________

http://wardogsmakingithome.org/index.html

War Dogs, Making it Home - Rescue Dogs for Returning Vets

BetweenRides
BetweenRides's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 weeks 5 days ago
Title: ★★★★★
Joined: 01/02/2011
Posts: 2913
Location: Chicagoland, USA
garrybunk

garrybunk wrote:

BetweenRides, Thanks for the info!  I have never tested "low voltage protection" in my lights (to even know which ones have it and what it's like to encounter it).  What about charging?  What if the charger decides not to stop at 4.2v?  There's no protection circuit to kick in, so what will happen on one of these cells?

-Garry

Low Voltage protection also works to identify sh!tty batteries. If I put Ultrafire 3000mAh batteries in my Balder, it starts blinking immediately and won't operate on high. Any good cell will operate the light just fine.

If you are using a good charger, LMR will charge like any other Li-ion cell, should stop at cell capacity around 4.17-4.20 (remember they are just another chemistry of Li-ion and have the same voltage operating range). I have two AW IMR 14500 cells and they perform on the charger like any other, come off at 4.18. If you buy the Xtar charger, you should be fine, but still follow the same prudent charging protocol and don't leave them alone, take off when the light turns green.

Or they could just go nukular on ya' ~~~ Wink

dthrckt
dthrckt's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 18 min ago
Title: ★★★★★
Joined: 11/08/2011
Posts: 3924
Location: Upstate NY
no kidding right - i saw

no kidding right - i saw those pics and started drooling

__________________

____________________

Girls can shoot!

pounder
pounder's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 34 min ago
Title: ★★★★★
Joined: 01/20/2011
Posts: 1753
Location: Ontario
that n-light only says

that n-light only says 18650's everywhere I look..where to get the 26650 version?

BetweenRides
BetweenRides's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 weeks 5 days ago
Title: ★★★★★
Joined: 01/02/2011
Posts: 2913
Location: Chicagoland, USA
pounder wrote: that n-light

pounder wrote:

that n-light only says 18650's everywhere I look..where to get the 26650 version?

Sorry, pounder, we went off topic (as usual at BLF Laughing). If you re-read the OP, I ordered the ST60 (18650), it was out of stock and CNQG is sending me a JM07 (26650). The ST60 can run on 1 or 2 18650's only.

Don
Don's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 2 days ago
Title: ★★★★★
Joined: 01/12/2010
Posts: 6524
Location: Scotland
garrybunk wrote:I've been

garrybunk wrote:

I've been waiting for a review on those Trustfire 26650 flames for awhile.  Kokopelli did a 1A discharge test and posted here.  Sounded ok, but was waiting for a "real" test at higher discharge rate and what max current they could handle.

-Garry

 

Simple test. Get yourself a current shunt rated to around 50A off eBay - like this one

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50A-75mV-Current-Shunt-AMP-Meter-Gauge-/150592...

Read the instructions and attach it to your multimeter as suggested.

Short the cell across it and read off the current. If it can't do 10A on a dead short (Should be nearer 45) it is crap. You might be able to read a value before the protection circuit (if any) cuts in.

 

Whatever you do, don't run this test for any longer than it takes to read the meter.

Really, really don't do this for more than a second.

I disclaim all responsibility for melted shunts/meters/hands/houses.

__________________

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

Google Docs

pounder
pounder's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 34 min ago
Title: ★★★★★
Joined: 01/20/2011
Posts: 1753
Location: Ontario
BetweenRides wrote:pounder

BetweenRides wrote:

pounder wrote:

that n-light only says 18650's everywhere I look..where to get the 26650 version?

Sorry, pounder, we went off topic (as usual at BLF Laughing). If you re-read the OP, I ordered the ST60 (18650), it was out of stock and CNQG is sending me a JM07 (26650). The ST60 can run on 1 or 2 18650's only.

 

thanks for clearing that up lol

garrybunk
garrybunk's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 30 min ago
Title: ★★★★★
Joined: 10/31/2011
Posts: 4830
Location: Johnstown, PA
BetweenRides wrote:Sorry,

BetweenRides wrote:

Sorry, pounder, we went off topic (as usual at BLF Laughing). If you re-read the OP, I ordered the ST60 (18650), it was out of stock and CNQG is sending me a JM07 (26650). The ST60 can run on 1 or 2 18650's only.

We didn't go off-topic, we came back on-topic!  See thread title! Wink

-Garry

Techjunkie
Techjunkie's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 10 weeks ago
Title: ★★
Joined: 08/21/2011
Posts: 163
I'd avoid "INR" cells

BetweenRides wrote:

garrybunk wrote:

I was steering away from the King Kong's due to them not being "protected", but should I?  Are they safe?  What kind of risks still exist with them?

-Garry

Garry:  Believe me when I say I am no battery expert. I did some research on IMR (+ Chicago X taught me a thing or two) and INR and here's what I found out:

IMR is a misspelled acronym for LMR - Lithium Manganese Rechargeable. It is a safer chemistry than Lithium ion Cobalt, which is typical chemistry in most Li-ion cells. Safer because it doesn't vent or go nuclear or flame out. That is why most IMR(LMR) batteries are unprotected. Well that and because it costs money to add protection and IMR is not a big seller like Li-ion Cobalt.

INR is suspected to be Lithium Nickel Cobalt Aluminium Dioxide. Again, INR acronym should probably be LNR. That's all I know, but there is a Wiki article on it here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel-lithium_battery  Last entry was 15 months ago, so I suspect Panasonic has moved it out of the experimental stage. It is also supposed to be safer than Li-ion Cobalt and probably does not have protection built in due to cost. I think the Trustfire 26650 you saw is neither of these, rather it is a good old fashioned Li-ion Cobalt and should rightly have a protection circuit. Doesn't mean it actually works, mind you.

As Hikelite and mitro referred tohere and in another thread, unprotected cells should be ok to use in a flashlight that is regulated to warn you below a certain voltage level (usually 3a) by flashing or dropping to medium or low. My Balder BD-2, Uniquefire 3900 and I believe the JM07 all do this. When the light output dips or flashes, you know to either run in a low mode or replace the cell to prevent over-discharge.

 

N.Shock provided a good link below that indicates at least one brand of "INR" branded cells are LiNiCoMn02 chemistry, like the Sony 26650VT cells.  They're capable of VERY high discharge rate and are far safer than standard LiCo cells, but can still be volatile if there were a short or a puncture.

Personally, I completely avoid any cell not being explicitly represented as one of the safe chemistry formulas.

Techjunkie
Techjunkie's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 10 weeks ago
Title: ★★
Joined: 08/21/2011
Posts: 163
please don't

Don wrote:

Simple test. Get yourself a current shunt rated to around 50A off eBay - like this one

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50A-75mV-Current-Shunt-AMP-Meter-Gauge-/150592...

Read the instructions and attach it to your multimeter as suggested.

Short the cell across it and read off the current. If it can't do 10A on a dead short (Should be nearer 45) it is crap. You might be able to read a value before the protection circuit (if any) cuts in.

 

Whatever you do, don't run this test for any longer than it takes to read the meter.

Really, really don't do this for more than a second.

I disclaim all responsibility for melted shunts/meters/hands/houses.

 

That's horrible advice.  Even if someone was willing to ruin a SAFE battery with a dead short, which would, permanently increase the cell's internal resistance, what if it was not a safe chem or protected cell?  LiCo cells DO vent flames and DO explode, and either/both can happen very quickly.  Big cells like 26650's pack A LOT of power - pipe bomb power.

That shunt is meant for measuring voltage drop across it under load as a means to measure the current going across it, not to dead-short a battery, power supply, etc.

benckie
benckie's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 1 week ago
Title: ★★★★★
Joined: 07/04/2011
Posts: 1508
Location: Western Austraila
To answer question #2 on the

To answer question #2 on the first post the only ones are from manafont, they are only 4000 mAh + not the claimed 5000 mAh, but they should be close to the king kongs with mAh.

I have brought one of these just to test out and see if they can be used in series with TR-J12 with out modification unlike the king kongs.

 TrustFire - Protected TF 26650 3.7V 5000mAh Rechargeable Li-ion Battery

#5 yes the TR-J12 will dim not sure about the others

BetweenRides
BetweenRides's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 weeks 5 days ago
Title: ★★★★★
Joined: 01/02/2011
Posts: 2913
Location: Chicagoland, USA
26650 Battery Inventory

Updated first post to include links to 26650 batteries. I'll keep track if anyone posts new ones.

Dave

benckie
benckie's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 1 week ago
Title: ★★★★★
Joined: 07/04/2011
Posts: 1508
Location: Western Austraila
Good work rides. One thing i

Good work rides.

One thing i have not tested the trustfire 5000 mAh yet myself but reports on the net they are between 4200 and 4500 mAh like the king kongs, but i belive no one has been able to test both batteries with a discharge higher then 1 amp discharge due to basic hobby chargers and for the king kongs they have gone off data sheets.

Once my sample gets here most likely in 2 weeks i will discharge the trustfire 26650 and king kongs at 3 amps and then run a 7 amp discharge test with data logging and post up the graphs if hjk does not beat me to it, i think the trustfire protected 26650 is the safest option as its the only one protected and at 3 to 3.5 amp discharge the king kongs and protected trustfire 26650's should be close.

Im intrested to see if the protection pcb can give atlest 3.5 amps as thats all it needs to give and that is about the most your well driven xml will draw on one cell, since the 2400 / 3000 mAh 18650 trustfire flames can give 3 amps no problem i think they should be fine and early reports seams good.

There was a 1 amp test done here post #7

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/7696

kramer5150
kramer5150's picture
Offline
Last seen: 14 weeks 5 days ago
Title: ★★★★★
Joined: 05/19/2010
Posts: 1280
Location: Palo Alto CA
SOLID bit of work Dave!!
kramer5150
kramer5150's picture
Offline
Last seen: 14 weeks 5 days ago
Title: ★★★★★
Joined: 05/19/2010
Posts: 1280
Location: Palo Alto CA
Of all these cells, which

Of all these cells, which ones have the lowest internal resistance, and highest "C"?

thanks!!

Shadowww
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 7 min ago
Title: ★★★★★
Joined: 01/20/2012
Posts: 1264
Location: Northern Europe
Not sure about "all", but

Not sure about "all", but from those 2 you posted (4Sevens 26650 and Powerizer 26650), 2nd one is capable of higher currents and has lower internal resistance.

BetweenRides
BetweenRides's picture
Offline
Last seen: 16 weeks 5 days ago
Title: ★★★★★
Joined: 01/02/2011
Posts: 2913
Location: Chicagoland, USA
Updated first post. Thanks

Updated first post. Thanks benckie and kramer!

Don
Don's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 2 days ago
Title: ★★★★★
Joined: 01/12/2010
Posts: 6524
Location: Scotland
Techjunkie wrote:Don

Techjunkie wrote:

Don wrote:

Simple test. Get yourself a current shunt rated to around 50A off eBay - like this one

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50A-75mV-Current-Shunt-AMP-Meter-Gauge-/150592...

Read the instructions and attach it to your multimeter as suggested.

Short the cell across it and read off the current. If it can't do 10A on a dead short (Should be nearer 45) it is crap. You might be able to read a value before the protection circuit (if any) cuts in.

 

Whatever you do, don't run this test for any longer than it takes to read the meter.

Really, really don't do this for more than a second.

I disclaim all responsibility for melted shunts/meters/hands/houses.

 

That's horrible advice.  Even if someone was willing to ruin a SAFE battery with a dead short, which would, permanently increase the cell's internal resistance, what if it was not a safe chem or protected cell?  LiCo cells DO vent flames and DO explode, and either/both can happen very quickly.  Big cells like 26650's pack A LOT of power - pipe bomb power.

That shunt is meant for measuring voltage drop across it under load as a means to measure the current going across it, not to dead-short a battery, power supply, etc.

 

If the cells can't do this for the ten or so milliseconds it will require to do the test the bin is the best place for them.

__________________

 

The numbers from my light tests are always to be found here.

Google Docs

kramer5150
kramer5150's picture
Offline
Last seen: 14 weeks 5 days ago
Title: ★★★★★
Joined: 05/19/2010
Posts: 1280
Location: Palo Alto CA
 I think I have it narrowed

 I think I have it narrowed down to these 3:

http://www.lighthound.com/Lighthound-LiMnNiCo-26650-3500mAh-Rechargeable...

http://www.batteryspace.com/LiMnNi-Rechargeable-26650-Cell-3.7V-4000-mAh...

http://www.batteryspace.com/High-Power-LiNiCoMn-26650-Rechargeable-Cell-...

Which one of these is the best in terms of internal resistance and current delivery capabilities?  That last one claims its capable of an 18A (!!!) draw... is that for real or a typo?  They measured 3794 mah capacity at 18A rate (!!) in the test below.

http://www.batteryspace.com/prod-specs/6459_6.pdf

And heres the discharge curve:

http://www.batteryspace.com/prod-specs/6459_1.pdf

I am not worried about capacity since they are all around ~3500 AH, and that will vary greatly with current draw anyways, and I don't need cell protection.  For this light I am using an XML in direct drive, and it draws 4~5A from a single cell.

Are there any others I should consider?  I would like to avoid Ebay and the Asian exporters, simply because domestic sellers like Lighthound and Batteryspace are competitively priced, honest and ship fast.  Is this a wise decision?... or should I expand my search?

I am leaning towards that one with the 18A capability... unless someone can convince me otherwise.

thanks in advance!!

Comment viewing options

Select your preferred way to display the comments and click "Save settings" to activate your changes.