My Yezl Y3 Has Arrived!

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Tom E
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Rusty Joe wrote:
Tom E wrote:

mudgripz wrote:
The 125k sounds ok but not compared to say a modded 2X or the like. Is the project torch not yet dedomed? - that could jump it to 250-280k?

Right - still with dome, that's why the high lumens #'s, and expect to see that range of throw when de-domed. This light is more a HD2010 replacement/upgrade for the same cost, and for that purpose, it's just about perfect - better quality, e-switch, better throw (a little). I don't see it competing with MaxToch 2 cell lights.

But does the userfriendly mode switch still work?

What mode switch? You mean my customized version? Yes - of course. It's pretty awesome.

Rusty Joe
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Tom E wrote:

Rusty Joe wrote:
Tom E wrote:

mudgripz wrote:
The 125k sounds ok but not compared to say a modded 2X or the like. Is the project torch not yet dedomed? – that could jump it to 250-280k?

Right – still with dome, that’s why the high lumens #‘s, and expect to see that range of throw when de-domed. This light is more a HD2010 replacement/upgrade for the same cost, and for that purpose, it’s just about perfect – better quality, e-switch, better throw (a little). I don’t see it competing with MaxToch 2 cell lights.

But does the userfriendly mode switch still work?

What mode switch? You mean my customized version? Yes – of course. It’s pretty awesome.

I meant the stock white button for changing modes. The big selling point of this light, for me, was the “no worries of it going into any other mode” feature. But no doubt, what you have is even more awesome (please do some beamshots!)

Tom E
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Sure - the whole point was to utilize that switch. The tail switch now is simply is a "lock-out". Everything can be done on the side switch, but nice to have total power cutoff with the tail switch.

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Tom E wrote:

The 5 mode switching is working amazingly:

  • no mode memory
  • quick click, turns it ON in moonlight (very low moonlight, lower than what you can get with 7135’s)
  • long quick (hold) of 3/10 of a second turns it on in high
  • once ON, quick clicks go up, long clicks (holds) go down
  • if you pause after changing modes for more than 1.2 secs, a quick click then will turn the light OFF

I’m finding the .3 secs and 1.2 secs times are working out well for me in this light.


Do you have any suggestions for a small, floody e-switch light which could use a similar firmware? (and any extra parts required to get it all working)

I’m hoping to make one which uses an e-switch to control PWM speed in very small increments, to make a variable-speed strobe light. I think a UF-T50 might be a good starting point, but I haven’t figured out where to go from there. (my background is in software, not hardware)

Tom E
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The Small Sun ZY-T29 or ZY-T11 clones. I bought this one: http://www.banggood.com/CREE-XM-L-T6-1800lm-5-Modes-Zoomable-LED-Flashlight-Black-p-80813.html, but received the UltraFire, but it's the same thing. Cheap - I modded it to 3.5A, XM-L2 U2 1A on a Noctigon, with the e-switch custom firmware. The XP-11 at WallBuys.com I've also mod'ed but it's a different setup internally. Check out the T29 and T11 threads for details. The Small Suns have plastic lens reflectors unfortunately, at least at the time, but the UltraFire and Aleto's don't.

It's certainly not a simple mod - ZY-T11/ZY-T29 require to piggyback a Nanjg onto the existing driver because of the switch mounted on the stock driver. For the XP-11, the stock driver can be tossed and replaced with a Nanjg, but wiring in the e-switch can be a challenge, unless you are ok with very fine soldering.

Check post #19 here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/24633

Tom E
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Chris at flashlightlens.com-UCLp_AR just listed a new size I requested for a UCLp: 56.8mm x 2.25 mm, that I requested. He'll basically do any size upon request for the UCLp, not the glass UCL. The stock lens on the Yezl Y3 is 56.8 mm wide and 2.04 mm thick. I'm assuming the 0.21 mm extra width will be ok, specially when swapping out the stock LED for a XM-L2 on copper, because it's slightly thinner. I'll be ordering one to try it out.

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Thanks! The ZY-T29 looks really promising. I think I can probably cram an extra board in there, though I’ll want to make sure it’s easy to get at for re-flashing. I don’t recall what extra parts are needed to flash the driver, but I think I saved links for it somewhere.

It has been too long since I got to write any firmware or other low-level code. Hopefully it’ll be reasonably straightforward to mess with the PWM timings to make a good strobe.

… starting a new shopping list now. Smile

brad
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Rusty Joe wrote:
I am talking about this light in case you have been wondering about it or are curious. Pics and a review will follow. It just came in the mail this morning. I am truly happy with it. It has a larger and deeper reflector than an HD2010 and appears to throw further while being…brighter?? Yes, brighter! Well, it looks it, but the beam is also visibly tighter, too. Tonight will tell the tale! It’s also lighter than the HD2010 and is a wonder to hold in the hand, which can’t but be a plus. And might I add, it’s great to get a light that can’t accidentally get knocked into a lower mode! With Wallbuys Magic code, I scored it for $28 and some change! So far, I’m blown away by this light. And this makes several purchases in 2014 that might be on my Budget Light of the Year list.

I just ordered one, does anyone have a 26650 battery to recommend?
Also, is the 18650 sleeve (and a battery) that comes with some AAA lights adequate for using in a 26650 light, at least for light (lite) use?

Let me ask something else, if I only intend to use this light to play around for 10 or 15 minutes, and am not in any rush to get into 26650s, will my 3400 panas be enough for my purposes?

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brad wrote:
Rusty Joe wrote:
I am talking about this light in case you have been wondering about it or are curious. Pics and a review will follow. It just came in the mail this morning. I am truly happy with it. It has a larger and deeper reflector than an HD2010 and appears to throw further while being…brighter?? Yes, brighter! Well, it looks it, but the beam is also visibly tighter, too. Tonight will tell the tale! It’s also lighter than the HD2010 and is a wonder to hold in the hand, which can’t but be a plus. And might I add, it’s great to get a light that can’t accidentally get knocked into a lower mode! With Wallbuys Magic code, I scored it for $28 and some change! So far, I’m blown away by this light. And this makes several purchases in 2014 that might be on my Budget Light of the Year list.

I just ordered one, does anyone have a 26650 battery to recommend?
Also, is the 18650 sleeve (and a battery) that comes with some AAA lights adequate for using in a 26650 light, at least for light (lite) use?

Let me ask something else, if I only intend to use this light to play around for 10 or 15 minutes, and am not in any rush to get into 26650s, will my 3400 panas be enough for my purposes?

The Kong 26650 is a tried-and-true contender. I use it in this light all the time…

http://www.orbtronic.com/batteries-chargers/king-kong-icr26650-3.7v-4000...

Mine didn’t come with the 18650 sleeve, but most others said theirs did. A 3 or 4xAAA configuration should work fine, and at least for a short while, should have not too much worse output since this is a regulated 2.5 amp torch.

I have used a Pana3400 and it’s just great. Just slightly less capacity than the 26650. Same performance as far as I can see.

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Thanks for the confirmation on the 18650, and the link to what looks like a good 26650.

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debeli
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Did anybody try to put 4c primaries in this flashlight? Results?

Tom E
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Richard (RMM) has the KK 26650's at competitive prices, plus others, US shipping is fairly cheap. Batteries here: mtnelectronics.com-1865-26650.

4C's? The specs say 3.7v input, and it fits 65cm cells (ie: 18<->650, 26<->650), so don't think they would work.

 

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The protected King Kong at that site is 69.75mm by 26.6mm, will it fit into the light?

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Tom E
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brad wrote:
The protected King Kong at that site is 69.75mm by 26.6mm, will it fit into the light?

Think it should. I got a few protected 26650's of similar size, so could try tonight, if I remember (Smile). I only use unprotected cells in one cell lights.

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Tom E wrote:

Richard (RMM) has the KK 26650's at competitive prices, plus others, US shipping is fairly cheap. Batteries here: mtnelectronics.com-1865-26650.

4C's? The specs say 3.7v input, and it fits 65cm cells (ie: 18<->650, 26<->650), so don't think they would work.

 

I assume he means the 3x26650 version. I would think 4C's would likely fit but don't have the extended version yet to test. 

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brad wrote:
The protected King Kong at that site is 69.75mm by 26.6mm, will it fit into the light?

I have that exact cell and it fit, no problem. Tried a TF Flame 26650 and a KeepPower Protected 26650 and the also fit. The KeepPowers have trouble fitting in a J12 in width, but easily fit in the Y3.

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Thanks much, I’m going to order the,( a) battery today.

Which battery is the best, the Keeppower 4500 protected, or the King Kong 26650 4000 mAh – ICR26650 Protected, the EnerPower 26650 4500mAh, another ?

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Tom E
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No direct experience with any of those, except if the KK Protected one is from RMM/MtnElectronics -- that one seems pretty good. I'd love to try one of those 4500 's though, or at least see a review.

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Received my Y3 today. It’s really great.

Pros:
+Great UI. H-M-L with mode memory and hidden strobe.
+Electronic side switch- Yes it’s more complex, but ergonomically it adds so much
+Flexible battery options- 1 2 or 3 18650s or 26650s pretty much rules.

Cons:
-Maybe a touch under driven for folks like us. Regulated at about 10W so about 2.5a with one cell and 1.25 with two cells.
-Dry threads

And the biggest con:
-Just too close to being perfect. I know that I’ll try to modify it and ruin it. Maybe I should just order a second one now?

All I want is a measly 40-50% increase in current! Is that so much to ask? /s

I’d love to mess around with those drivers with the STAR firmware, but I can’t give up the multi-cell capability. Any drivers that have a wide range of voltage inputs also don’t have (apparently) support for the e-switch.

I think I’ll have to try a resistor mod. Based on Tom’s experimentation, a resistor mod might not be that useful when there is only 1 cell. I could live with that. I’m thinking I’ll bridge the resistor bank with an R200.

I’ve never soldered surface mount resistors before. Any tips? Do you use a flux pen or something?

brad
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Which holster would fit it?

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Tom E
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Hhhmm, I know Richard (RMM) has a great write-up on doing resistor mods somewhere... I probably don't do it the recommended way. What I do:

  • dab a little flux on the board resistor being mounted
  • lay the new resistor on it, hold in place with a tweezer (other fine tipped things will do)
  • get some solder on the tip - not too much, not too little either, and hold on one end till the underlying solder melts and the solder on the iron flows to the resistor - check carefully you got a good bonded connection
  • then do the same with the other end, still holding the resistor down
  • inspect the solder bonds closely - with a loop/magnifier (continuity tests probably don't work too well because the typical DMM's see continuity across these low value resistors anyway)

 Other way is to dab some solder onto the ends of the board mounted resistor first before laying the other one down, but for me, it makes it awkward to hold the new resistor down in place.

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brad wrote:
Which holster would fit it?

I got a perfect holster for this light! Actually, got a few of these holsters because they fit sooo many lights, like a HD 2010, T08, J12, J18, etc.....

This one: fasttech.com-1330400-niwalker-holster, and for $4, you can't go wrong. I use them for my J18's because it's much better than the one the light comes with. I'm think'n GarryBunk may have been the one who first pointed this holster out for the HD2010.

brad
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Thanks again, perfect sounds pretty good.

I hope we get some comments on which battery is best, Keeppower 4500 protected, or the King Kong 26650 4000 mAh ICR26650 Protected, the EnerPower 26650 4500mAh, or another ?

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brad
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I bought the King Kong protected, black, at Mountain electronics.

How will the Yetzl Y3 compare with my XinTD C8 V3, the first model?

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Tom E wrote:

brad wrote:
Which holster would fit it?

I got a perfect holster for this light! Actually, got a few of these holsters because they fit sooo many lights, like a HD 2010, T08, J12, J18, etc…..

This one: fasttech.com-1330400-niwalker-holster, and for $4, you can’t go wrong. I use them for my J18’s because it’s much better than the one the light comes with. I’m think’n GarryBunk may have been the one who first pointed this holster out for the HD2010.

thats a nice holster. so does the tube from the j18 go through that hole on the bottom of the holster?
do you think a 9x xml head would fit that holster as well?

Tom E
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blueb8llz wrote:
Tom E wrote:

brad wrote:
Which holster would fit it?

I got a perfect holster for this light! Actually, got a few of these holsters because they fit sooo many lights, like a HD 2010, T08, J12, J18, etc.....

This one: fasttech.com-1330400-niwalker-holster, and for $4, you can't go wrong. I use them for my J18's because it's much better than the one the light comes with. I'm think'n GarryBunk may have been the one who first pointed this holster out for the HD2010.

thats a nice holster. so does the tube from the j18 go through that hole on the bottom of the holster? do you think a 9x xml head would fit that holster as well?

It's not a perfect fit for the J18's, but it works. The end cap will hang a little on making it past the bottom threads, but it gets past them. Also, you have to force the head down a little to get the flap to catch the Velcro. I only use holsters for carrying the lights to protect them - I don't wear them very often, specially ones this big. It's a heavy gauge material though, and it's length protects the HD2010's and T08' pretty much fully, while the Y3 hangs out just a little.

Tom E
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Got the UCLp lens in today for the Y3. It looks fantastic, dark purple tint to the reflected light, perfect condition.

Results on a Powerizer cell at 4.21v

     Lumens: 1,819 @start, 1,732 @30 secs and 136 kcd

 

I compared 2 different cells before/after Powerizer @4.21v and Efest 35A 18650 at 4.22v:

Powerizer:  4.5% increase in lumens (@30 secs), 8.8% increase in kcd

Efest 35A:   5.2% increase in lumens (@30 secs), no throw to compare

blueb8llz
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Tom E wrote:

Got the UCLp lens in today for the Y3. It looks fantastic, dark purple tint to the reflected light, perfect condition.

Results on a Powerizer cell at 4.21v

     Lumens: 1,819 start,<STRONG> 1,732 30 secs and 136 kcd

 

I compared 2 different cells before/after Powerizer 4.21v&nbsp;and Efest 35A 18650 at 4.22v:</P> <P><STRONG>Powerizer:</STRONG>&nbsp; <STRONG>4.5%</STRONG> increase in lumens (30 secs), 8.8% increase in kcd

Efest 35A:   5.2% increase in lumens (@30 secs), no throw to compare

wow nice numbers, thats dedomed right?

Tom E
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No - not de-domed. 200-210 kcd is standard for HD 2010's and T08's de-domed, so this light would be closer to 300 kcd de-domed.

blueb8llz
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Tom E wrote:

No – not de-domed. 200-210 kcd is standard for HD 2010’s and T08’s de-domed, so this light would be closer to 300 kcd de-domed.

what the!? where have i been all this time. this is very impressive and it even has a side switch!

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