Nanjg-105c replacement w/ added functionality. [Regular firmwares can be used by bridging pins 5&6 to make it work like a 105c or Qlite – new functionality requires flashing a current version of STAR or similar.]
Features:
- 1mm ‘tall’ component keepout around edge. While all plastic packages are 1mm+ away from the edge, 7135 tab is actually only 0.5mm away from the edge.
- 7+1*7135 (so 8x) with dual-PWM, similar to RMM’s Moonlight Special (#1447) == identical functions, intended for use with the same firmware. Intended to achieve more efficient, consistent, and lower moonlight modes.
- Zener ready. [SOD-123, our standard sized Zener]
- Offtime ready.
- Covered (scrapeable) PB4 (Pin3) input/output pad. Use for temp sensor or FET turbo w/ a stacked FET. The pad is ~1×2mm in size.
- A significant arbitrary aesthetic design goal should be obvious… hint: it involves a lot of 0805s in a straight line!
- Based on Cereal_killer’s post #44 in the DD+7135 thread I’ve used a larger GND ring on top where possible. The bottom remains 1mm. The exposed copper is 0.5mm on top and 0.25mm on the bottom with large ~1mm scallops.
- Like some other recent drivers, this driver does have a reverse-polarity protection diode but bypasses the diode for the voltage divider. Due to this we are able to use any diode desired. Ideally we use a protection diode with as low a Vf as is reasonable.
- The exposed spring pad is exactly 5mm, ignoring the via. The total copper under the spring is 6.4mm. [A signal trace is immediately outside this 6.4mm area, but everything should remain fully covered in resist out to approximately 7.4mm]
- Both power vias are 1.3mm.
- LED+/- pads are 2.6mm in diameter.
I established a very arbitrary design goal and stuck to my guns. All the 0805 components are perfectly lined up and spaced evenly from one another. Any differences in spacing are due to the low resolution render. Actual pads are significantly farther apart than they look. As far as the electrical design / schematic, this was directly inspired by the Moonlight Special driver. I’ve been discussing sequences of 7135s for a long time (and others were no doubt discussing it before I did). Under that system I’d normally put PWM on a single 7135 and then use toggles to turn on and off all the others in sets, typically organized something like (1, 1, 2, 4) or (1, 2, 3, 6) which allows the use of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8 IC’s at once (or 1 through 12 in the second set). At some point I came up with a hybrid driver which used an FET and all the other available outputs on an ATtiny13A in order to get as close to that ideal as possible + have FET turbo, but there are some downsides to that and more work to be done. Until RMM brought out the Moonlight Special driver it never occurred to me that there was any point to going less than “whole hog” on that concept. What RMM realized was that a single 7135 could maintain a very low, efficient, and reliable ‘low’ or ‘moonlight’ mode on one PWM output, and that if we hooked an additional PWM output up to another thing we could have both high and low current with PWM. (This driver is intended to use with either “full on” on all eight 7135s, PWM on all of the 7135s for all the regular modes, full on on a single 7135, or PWM on a single 7135 for the lowest mode.)
This driver has been cryptically named A17PZL, which can either stand for PWM, Zener, Linear… or PuzZLe.
While the power vias are suitable for soldering your LED hookup wires into at a very large 1.3mm, there are also giant 2.6mm pads which are directly across from each other near the edges of the PCB. For many installs these probably make the most sense.
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
Here is the original ‘work in progress’ OP. At the time the thread was titled:
“[WIP] 17mm 8×7135 with Zener & dual-PWM + stubborn“.
I know that this may not be my very best work. I established a very arbitrary design goal and stuck to my guns. All the 0805 components are perfectly lined up and spaced evenly from one another. Any differences in spacing are due to the low resolution render. Pads are significantly farther apart than they look.
I am open to suggestions for cryptic acronyms for this driver. As you can see, my driver names typically begin with the character “A,” followed by the diameter in MM, followed by a psuedo-descriptive string of characters. 2-3 characters is probably ideal. A hyphen could be used. I don’t know.
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
v008
I was concerned about the 3 vias located under the tab on the top 7135 which sits next to the Zener diode. I suspect that during reflow those vias could cause the 7135 to shift inwards and possibly bridge the Vdd/PWM pin onto the Zener’s pad. To combat this problem I distributed vias around the GND ring.
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
A178PZL?
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
Scott
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
pizzle? (wikipedia is your friend)
Yeah, puzzle. As in what order do I do this?
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
Scott
+1 for puzzle!
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I’m for puzzle too.
"Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."
Hah, I’m game. Puzzle sounds like a clear winner right now.
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
I updated the resist on the bottom to make reflow easier. There are now well-defined dams of resist between every 7135 tab and the exposed ring. The actual exposed ring is now very very thin, but the copper layer hasn’t changed (it’s 1mm) and I’ve added exposed scallops to make up for it.
Of course the silk is updated to reflect the name
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
It’s getting better all the tiiime. The scallops for the expander boards? It looks like there are some acute angles on the 7135 traces. What are the two lines across the L+ pad? They look like breaks in the copper leaving only two narrow paths for current.
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
Scott
EDIT: Thanks!
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
Aha! Yes the traces from the pwm pads to the ring and also led- to it’s ring but you know what you want. I’ve tried to minimize these by making the connector traces radial to the rings and connect to a pad corner but if it works wgaf?
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
Scott
Right. I think it’s about 6 of one and half a dozen of the other. Eagle doesn’t have dedicated tools for either task as far as I know. Neither way looks entirely natural. Aesthetics probably would have settled the question – if one looked better I’d have gone with that. Instead I settled on the one that was significantly easier for me to eyeball.
In a circuit like this, at these frequencies, as far as I know the only potential problem would be with a super, super bad fab not being able to produce something. Eg an “acid trap” problem, although I don’t have enough experience to know if that’s a real thing or just something people on the internet chat/whine about. I don’t think we’re going to run into any of that.
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
Looking good!
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It’s really a pity that Eagle does not have more features related to aesthetics, snapping, geometric layout, etc. CorelDraw would make short work of those revisions and make the result look better. Fortunately the final product is a tiny PCB, so my minor misalignments shouldn’t be super obvious.
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
In Post 10, the last pic you show, you left out the little circle that identifies pin one on the MCU.
I don’t like it.
I LOVE IT!
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
Updated to v012 –
I think it’s ready for a release. I haven’t built one yet. I never ordered any because I wasn’t happy with the driver yet in earlier versions.
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/BiFm1nwn
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
Updated to v013 –
I realized today that I had the PWM outputs connected in reverse as compared to RMM’s Moonlight Special. Of course that will work, but it was not a drop in replacement when done that way. IIRC the way it’s currently implemented in STAR requires code changes, not just define changes, so that’s a pain. I think I might have originally done it as a matter of convenience, or maybe it was just a side effect of this layout being derived from this one. Either way having the pins connected in the same fashion as the Moonlight Special is better for everyone in this case. I’ve updated the driver to be that way. As a result, the section under the MCU is a little bit less clean looking… but who’s counting?
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/dC3iqMxp
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
Now I’m gonna have to get the firmware so I can flash em and check em out.
Beefy traces? 3-4 high on the spring side? :bigsmile: JK, I find myself needing some more sane drivers than the FET’s on occasion and these will certainly fill the bill better than a qlite.
Are both 7135’s on the MCU side of the board controlled separately or just one? If one, which one? The on top of the Zener label? This IS primarily a low moon mode 3.04A qlite replacement, isn’t it? Or have I, once again, missed something?
I’ll have to re-flow the spring side for looks, hand solder the MCU side…with those big pads the MCU side will be a piece of cake. I elected to fully hand solder an A17DD S-08 the other day and it was pretty easy, even with the wrong tip on my iron. (I use the big bevel tip that comes stock with the Hakko 888, haven’t found a need to change it. I do resistor mods, stack chips, everything with this big bevel tip. lol)
Nice work Wight, some good looking boards you’re designing these days.
This looks super awesome… Thank you so much for sharing your work with us. What components do I need to start building these?
“We are all worms, but I believe that I am a glow-worm.” – Winston Churchill
Only one 7135 is controlled individually. 7x and 1x. The one which is by itself is actually
the 7135 next to the “B” in “BLF”– everything else is part of the 7. Unfortunately making one of the topside 7135s into the single would have involved sacrifices for the rest of the layout. It’s less obvious here because I removed the 7135’s Pin2 from the footprint, but remember that there is a pin connected to GND which goes all the way from the tab to the “front” of each 7135. I don’t worry about putting covered traces under this, but I do not place vias under it.I also use the stock bevel tip for my iron (a Hakko FX888). I got finer tips, but never got around to installing them.
Thanks!
Don’t forget that with a small code tweak you can stack an FET on top of this thing (although with only on/off control, no PWM).
EDIT: Actually the single is next to the “F” in BLF. Sorry!
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
In order to build these and get the 7+1 functionality (dual PWM / low moonlight) you’ll need the ability to flash an ATtiny13A, that is your biggest expense if you do not already have it. In order to flash drivers you’ll need 2-3 things, a USBASP and a way to attach it to the MCU (ATtiny13A). I’m using a Pomona SOIC-CLIP from Mouser, some colorful wires from eBay, and a USBASP from eBay.
For the actual driver hardware you may transplant an entire Nanjg 105c, Nanjg 105D, or Qlite. For offtime you’ll need to add a single 1uF capacitor, X5R or X7R is recommended but you can probably get away with putting almost anything in place of that cap.
With the stock 19.1k and 4.7k resistors from a Nanjg/etc stepdown and shutdown values for low-voltage warning and protection must be adjusted (for a 3v stepdown and a 2.8v shutdown maybe use 138 and 129?).
Here are some links:
My advice is to consider bumping your cart to QTY=100 on all the <$0.10 components in order to maximize your savings and have some on hand. They get very cheap in QTY=100.
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
Yes. [Insert NASA joke here.]
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
Sweet! Just ordered 6. I’ve got enough loose 105C/Qlite components on hand to build 8 or 9. Also have what I need to flash attiny’s as well. So the newest STAR firmware should work?
“We are all worms, but I believe that I am a glow-worm.” – Winston Churchill
The constants to focus on when setting up the firmware should be these two:
#define MODE_MOON 3
#define DUAL_PWM_START 8
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
RMM sells parts and board kits with star firmware as well as the moonlight special so I think he might also be able to flash just the mcu for this application and it would not at all surprise me to see this in kit form on his site soon for those of us still not set up to flash our own drivers. Hint, hint. Nice to see this. Has anyone ordered them yet?
Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?
Scott
Three people that I know of: I just ordered some a few minutes ago, DBCstm, and grantman321. All of us can flash, so we should be good to go.
RBD, you don’t happen to know where to get those 5×5mm 105c springs do you?
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
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