What did you mod today?

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Dutcheee
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Here’s the led & beam at 2.5mtr MascaratumB:

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Dutcheee wrote:
Here’s the led & beam at 2.5mtr MascaratumB:

Thanks for your answers and pictures Dutchee! I guess that being XPL-HI doesn’t create the “rings” that I saw in mine with the XP-G2 and the Luxeon V, before the TIR.
Even not being completely centered as you said, there is not much “noise” in the beam! Nice work once again Wink
I am tempted to get another Tool AA to do something similar to what you’ve done Wink
Unless LT releases a differente version of the light with some corrections (UI, Driver, LED :p)

Thanks again mate Wink

clemence
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Two Cafe lights from used materials (except the drivers and the LED module):

More Info:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/59651

pinkpanda3310
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Swapped out the led in my T20T with an old dedomed sst-90 4500k. Results are not quite what I wanted, the tint seems a bit green to my eye’s. Plus the firefly mode doesn’t light up the new led. I think I’ll try a different led. The led shelf had a step in it so I lathed the shelf flat to suit the larger led.

  

CRX
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Haven’t seen one of those for a while.

djozz
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An SST-90 still looks cool!

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Yeh, I actually like the look of the led itself Cool but in this situation not much of it can be seen.

  

g_damian
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Simple mod today. Installed 219C 4000K into Lumintop Prince. Also added spring to the driver, so flat-tops work now.

Album with pictures

djozz
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^ nice pictures!

DB Custom
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Got a really neat little Thorfire TK05 in the mail yesterday, a friend liked it so much he sent me one to play with so he’d get a better idea how he wanted me to mod his own. lol

So I pulled the XP-G3 and replaced it with an XP-L V6 3D on a Noctigon sized to fit, that helped a lot but it was still somewhat anemic. So I build an FET+1 driver and flashed Anduril and now it does 1386 lumens out the front. Smile

Anduril allows controls on the floor and ceiling of the ramp so it’s easy to set it up for the high end of the ramp to be more gentle on the cell and not make so much heat, a quick double click yields full Turbo if needed.

And lightning/candlelight modes make it exceptionally sweet for EDC! Big Smile

weklund
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DIY Hard Boiled Egg Patina on my Copper Lumintop Prince …

Hard Boiled patina ages nicely. I treated the top CU a year or so ago and bottom CU I just treated overnight.

... Happy Landings ...

djozz
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^ pretty. Is there a way to keep it that way? (a coating of some sort?)

kiriba-ru
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Sure. You can use many transparent spray-lacquer.

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Olight Prince sure is an unknown model Innocent

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

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Oops … yea uh I mean … Lumitop Prince.

Cool lights nonetheless … Smile

... Happy Landings ...

DB Custom
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Used Sugru (an uncured Silicone from the UK) to make a silicone sleeve on my Emisar D1s. Had the blue Sugru left over on another project and had to use it somewhere, rolled it out and wrapped it around the tube of the D1s and rolled it like a pastry roller on the bathroom counter (little bit of water helped keep it from sticking to the counter and roll out smooth)

Swib
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Nice move Dale. This is the kind of thing that this light needs to keep a grip on it. Still wish it had a hole for a lanyard. I’d really hate to drop it in the river.

If you don’t like what it looks like on the wall, take it outside.

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I wanted to use my Skilhunt H03 shorty with Andúril firmware So I ordered 22DD-m fet+1×7135 driver board which designed by DEL and grinded down to 21mm diameter to fit the H03. Built the driver:

Removed stock driver:

Test run:


I couldn’t make the switch indicator led run so I soldered two blue leds between switch legs and they draw 0,2mA current so it is good for me. They are always on except when button is presed. And don’t mess with the firmware at all. On the left it is the stock red led. Maybe later I will use it for something.

contactcr
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I got my M2 quad together (I stripped the black anno off to the bare aluminum). It’s running LED4Power 12A driver, 4x Luxeon V on his MOSLED board, and his lighted tail switch. Spacer is from Kiriba-ru. First time using any parts from either vendor, impressed with both!

Ceiling bounce numbers:

Constant Current 12A setting: 4,000 lm
Direct Drive setting: 5,385 lm (@ turn on)

Moon is just a little brighter than my D4 Nichia.

It does 4,000 lm for about ~75 seconds before stepping down to 1,000 lm. I let it run 5m total and it never stepped down from 1,000 lm but the body was not comfortable to hold at this point. Somehow the entire body transfers heat, not just the head/copper spacer.


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Skilhunt H03 Shorty with FET+1×7135 and Andúril with blue lighted switch

djozz
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Nice mods above!

I have done a C8F mod today but flickr does not want to upload. If that works again I will post a what did you mod yesterday.

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djozz wrote:
Nice mods above!

I have done a C8F mod today but flickr does not want to upload. If that works again I will post a what did you mod yesterday.


Thanks!
Just finished my C8F too. I disassembled completely three times because of one faulty led.

Now it works. Tomorrow when I get home I will measure the output.

CRX
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FourSevens Atom Triple XP-L HI.

I reworked my keyring flashlight with a reverse tail clicky switch.
The detachable magnetic holder is made from an old steel strike bezel which has a through plunger so the lights clicky switch can be operated whilst still attached to the holder Cool
Also changed the driver to an LD-4 3A with external NTC.

Triple XP-L HI v2 1A on 16mm Noctigon
Carclo 10507 TIR optic
LD-4 3A driver with thermal regulation
Reverse clicky tail switch
Cyan GITD tail ring
Brushed stainless steel
Custom made magnetic keyring holder with through plunger switch
Green 6mm x 1.5mm tritium vial
Max - 1740lm OTF
56mm x 19mm
Weight - 52g with 16340 cell

My other FourSeven's Tail Clicky lights

CRX
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Also rebuilt my Olight TC10 Ti with an XP-L HI v2 5D on 16mm Noctigon, new OP reflector and GITD switch.

Around 1100lm OTF with the FET driver.

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Some beautiful mods again, CRX! Especially I like that you often mod Foursevens lights, love them but ever only bought one (a warm high CRI mini-AA).

And Flickr upload works again so here is yesterday’s mod, a Sofirn C8F host with:
*corrected a hole in the ledboard to compensate for the sloppy manufacturing work on the reflector (screw hole in the wrong position)

*reflowed three XP-L2 V3 4000K 80 CRI leds (from Mouser)
*used 18 AWG ledwires, but still the current is limited by them because the way the head is build, they need to be long.
*Lexel’s 17mm 3-channel e-switch Narsil driver, with a reversed spring for battery contact, the led+ wire (through the enlarged to 2.5mm hole in the driver) soldered to the top of the spring. The 7135 chips on the battery side had the corners filed off plus the brass driver ring was bevelled on the inside to make the ring fit on top of the chips.
*lowered the resistors on the switchboard from 33K to 4.7K, and the green leds for yellow ones. Swapped the shallow dark switch cover for a raised clear one (spare switch-cover from a Q8)
*did a tail-spring bypass with 18AWG silicon wire.
*sanded the ears off the tail and Foy-bezeled the bezel.

The current and output was a bit less than expected: 15 amps and 3500 lumen on a charged 30Q after 30 seconds (output is pretty stable so the leds are well heatsinked), I hoped for 4200. I blame that on the rather long ledwires that this host requires, all other connections in this mod are very beefy. The beam is good with a clear hotspot, as to be expected from this host, I did not measure throw. The tint is very nice, the hotspot does have the yellow-ish corona that we came to love with all new Cree leds, but with the 80CRI leds (both 5000K and 4000K) the yellow is not scary greenish but a very acceptable soft yellow. The yellow switch leds light up nice and bright and use 0.7 mA when the light is off (almost half a year to drain a 30Q).

CRX
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I like the yellow lighted switch & Foy bezel Thumbs Up

Mike C
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djozz wrote:
here is yesterday’s mod, a Sofirn C8F host

Nice stuff! I have six of these hosts waiting for my new driver design on the way. Do you have the exact order code to the LEDs on mouser? I don’t understand Mouser’s search engine. Let’s say I want to see what XP-L2 LEDs they have. I can’t select XP-L2. I select all other stuff, but not narrow it down to XP-L2. How do you do that?
djozz
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Mike C wrote:
djozz wrote:
here is yesterday’s mod, a Sofirn C8F host

Nice stuff! I have six of these hosts waiting for my new driver design on the way. Do you have the exact order code to the LEDs on mouser? I don’t understand Mouser’s search engine. Let’s say I want to see what XP-L2 LEDs they have. I can’t select XP-L2. I select all other stuff, but not narrow it down to XP-L2. How do you do that?

Cree order code: XPLBWT-00-0000-000HV340G
https://mouser.com/ProductDetail/941-XPLBWT000HV340G

I’m not good at Mouser’s search engine, it can not find XP-L2 and leaves products out that are clearly within the filters that I use.

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djozz wrote:
Cree order code: XPLBWT-00-0000-000HV340G
https://mouser.com/ProductDetail/941-XPLBWT000HV340G

Thanks. You don’t have an answer to the search question though?
djozz
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Mike C wrote:
djozz wrote:
Cree order code: XPLBWT-00-0000-000HV340G
https://mouser.com/ProductDetail/941-XPLBWT000HV340G

Thanks. You don’t have an answer to the search question though?

Just edited the post, now I did Smile

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