What did you mod today?

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djozz
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Go for it Evil

What is bad about the pcb?

Sari33
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The anod is welded together with a small resistor and lot of blow
Previous image was enlarger,working space is small for the point of my 60W Iron solder
otherwise I cut Led :)?

Sari33
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Afer the use I found slight unscrewed the pill on my s2+, could have as a consequence bad pressure of the mcpcb on shelf surface.I added another retainer ring(also right washers should be fine)take from a junk light that now lock the pill.It also secured by the pressure of battery tube.

2A
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If you like this hobby enough, get a hot air station. Getting components onto and off boards is a breeze with it.
Or, a smaller soldering tip from Aliexpress.

Either way, this sounds like a cool mod.

Sari33 wrote:
The anod is welded together with a small resistor and lot of blow Previous image was enlarger,working space is small for the point of my 60W Iron solder otherwise I cut Led :)?
NeutralFan
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Hey Sari33, I’d recommend taking the extra retaining ring out of the S2+ head. Normally the head screws onto the body (battery tube) until they meet. There should not be a gap between the head and the body. The body does not need to touch the driver retainer ring.

Where there should be a gap is at the tail. That’s where the body touches the switch retaining ring or housing and allows the flashlight to be locked out by slightly turning the tail.

Or maybe I’m not understanding your issue.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

Sari33
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No,sorry maybe the barrier languages.
First I tightened the pill then I put the retaining ring, this because I founded the pill a little unscrewed last time and now Is secure pressed.

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IFAIK there has bever been a retaining ring on the head side of a Convoy S2+..
In the head-combo you’ll find in that order:

O-ring (rather thin green GITD)
glass lens
reflector
centering ring
pill

This should be enough to press the pill in with the body.
Maybe you should consider using a thicker O-ring.

As already stated, there is a retaining ring IN the pill, that does NOT touch the body.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

Chatika vas Paus
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I turned the diffuser into anti-glaring hat for a bicycle flashlight, which is to prevent dazzling people from the opposite direction. It didn’t look very nice, but it works.

NeutralFan
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Henk4U2 wrote:
IFAIK there has bever been a retaining ring on the head side of a Convoy S2+..
In the head-combo you’ll find in that order:

O-ring (rather thin green GITD)
glass lens
reflector
centering ring
pill

This should be enough to press the pill in with the body.
Maybe you should consider using a thicker O-ring.

As already stated, there is a retaining ring IN the pill, that does NOT touch the body.

All of my S2+s have a retaining ring to secure the driver. I prefer not to have them soldered in.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

MtnDon
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Whether or not a retaining ring is used has a lot to do with the type of driver. Some, with a ring of 7135 regulators need the retaining ring to be filed out on the inside to clear the 7135’s or are soldered in place instead of modding the retainer ring.

Henk4U2
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NeutralFan wrote:

All of my S2+s have a retaining ring to secure the driver. I prefer not to have them soldered in.

#MINETOO

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

gchart
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Finally got the boards in to convert my Amutorch E3 to Anduril2 with RGB Aux LEDs. It was a very tedious mod, but after a couple setbacks I think it turned out really well. I made a custom attiny1616-based FET+1 driver and used Loneoceans’s RGB Aux board for the FW3x series.

thefreeman
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Nice work Gchart.

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Nice gChart, more next level modding.

Probably the shortest 21700 cell light (@95mm) with Anduril, a pocket rocket.

I think I’ll have dig up my E3 and give it another look.

Seeking the light.

e1000
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great work gchart, nicely done

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Replaced Thrunite Cat6 V2 reflector with TIR Optic.

The inspiration for this mod was the result of seeing user reviews of the Manker MK37 and U22III lights with large TIR optics. I was able to find a similar looking optic on AE.

The Thrunite Cat6 V2 reflector cavity/dimensions (~ 52×29 mm) worked well for this optic, which measures 47mm dia x 29mm ht. The hardest part of this mod (or any mod where reflector or optics are involved) was getting it properly centered and focused.


Optic (slightly lowered to help focus) with DIY spacer/centering ring.

FWIW in the screen captures (see below) from BLF member andreas0401’s video review of the Manker U22 III one can see the result of this optic vs a traditional reflector, in that case using the SBT90.2 emitter. I get analogous results with the Cat6 and XHP35.


White-wall shot showing traditional reflector hotspot from U21 vs the new optic in Cat6


Screen capture from andreas0401 video illustrating this optic in the field, broader hotspot w/less defined spill (NOT the Cat6 in photos)


Unlike most mods the result was not more OTF light, just less as spill.

———
edited with different photos

Seeking the light.

Scallywag
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gchart wrote:
Finally got the boards in to convert my Amutorch E3 to Anduril2 with RGB Aux LEDs. It was a very tedious mod, but after a couple setbacks I think it turned out really well. I made a custom attiny1616-based FET+1 driver and used Loneoceans’s RGB Aux board for the FW3x series.

I want to love this light, and even more so with this mod, but I just know it will never get carried over my KR4 or SC62w.

May I ask, what were the setbacks?

jon_slider
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I bought this D25A Ti with a problem. Sometimes the light would not turn on. And when it did work, the switch was hyper sensitive and would switch modes with the slightest touch of the tailbutton. It would also skip modes.

At first I thought the issue was the switch contact ring to the body.. I made sure it was clean, including removing all lube with alcohol. I even cleaned the body ring that the switch seats on, with emery paper, to remove any potentially non conductive Titanium Oxide.

The switch was still hyper sensitive, so I suspected the issue was caused by the plunger on the switch remaining partly depressed by the too tight tolerance to the rubber boot. I sanded down the switch pin, a little.. it seemed to help, but the light was still unreliable. Sometimes it would not turn on.

Rather than continue shortening the switch pin, I decided to wrap the metal washer in a few layers of packing tape. This seems to have solved the problems.. The switch is now not hyper sensitive, it no longer skips modes, and so far, there have been no more failures of the light to turn on.

===

edit the next day:
The switch failed again, several times, intermittently

so I removed the spacer tape around the metal washer.
then
I cleaned the switch with an alcohol soak, and I think that helped.
I also wrote to ask EagleTac if they will sell me a replacement switch.

WTB: Lumintop FWAA

gchart
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Scallywag wrote:
I want to love this light, and even more so with this mod, but I just know it will never get carried over my KR4 or SC62w.

May I ask, what were the setbacks?


I’ve never had a Zebralight, so I won’t even begin to compare that. And while I don’t have a KR4, I do like Hank’s lights. Crazy thing though.. the Noctigon KR4 and the Amutorch E3 are almost exactly the same size, but the E3 is 21700 whereas the KR4 is 18650. E3 dimensions: 95 (length) x 29 (head) x 25.4 (body). The KR4 is 98 × 29 × 24.

The difficulties / setbacks:

  • The driver was designed specifically for this light and had to be fairly exact in its dimensions so that the screw holes and the switch lined up properly
  • The driver cavity is very tight, no room for any extra wire or anything
  • The E3 is a unibody, so everything had to be fed in through the tailcap
  • The hole for the LED wires had only so much room, so I used 22ga primary wires and some very very thin 30ga Kynar wires for the aux
  • When I first got it assembled, only the blue LED of the RGB aux worked
  • With the ramp config on default settings, the LEDs wouldn’t turn on at the dimmest Anduril setting
  • Shortly after assembly, the 7135 got stuck on all the time. Must have been defective or something. It was an extra crappy “crappy sailboat” version. Lesson learned.
  • So… I took everything apart
  • I updated Anduril2 for the AVR 1-Series to use phase-correct (dual slope) PWM with a 10 MHz clock instead of single-slope PWM at 5 MHz. This fixed the lowest ramp setting issue.
  • I also replaced the “crappy sailboat” 7135 for a “raptor claw” 7135 that I removed from another driver.
  • I then bench tested everything to make sure it worked before reassembly
  • I then reassembled everything yet again, being extra cautious every step of the way, especially with those aux LED wires
  • It worked!

Scallywag
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gchart wrote:
Scallywag wrote:
I want to love this light, and even more so with this mod, but I just know it will never get carried over my KR4 or SC62w.

May I ask, what were the setbacks?


I’ve never had a Zebralight, so I won’t even begin to compare that. And while I don’t have a KR4, I do like Hank’s lights. Crazy thing though.. the Noctigon KR4 and the Amutorch E3 are almost exactly the same size, but the E3 is 21700 whereas the KR4 is 18650. E3 dimensions: 95 (length) x 29 (head) x 25.4 (body). The KR4 is 98 × 29 × 24.

The difficulties / setbacks:

  • The driver was designed specifically for this light and had to be fairly exact in its dimensions so that the screw holes and the switch lined up properly
  • The driver cavity is very tight, no room for any extra wire or anything
  • The E3 is a unibody, so everything had to be fed in through the tailcap
  • The hole for the LED wires had only so much room, so I used 22ga primary wires and some very very thin 30ga Kynar wires for the aux
  • When I first got it assembled, only the blue LED of the RGB aux worked
  • With the ramp config on default settings, the LEDs wouldn’t turn on at the dimmest Anduril setting
  • Shortly after assembly, the 7135 got stuck on all the time. Must have been defective or something. It was an extra crappy “crappy sailboat” version. Lesson learned.
  • So… I took everything apart
  • I updated Anduril2 for the AVR 1-Series to use phase-correct (dual slope) PWM with a 10 MHz clock instead of single-slope PWM at 5 MHz. This fixed the lowest ramp setting issue.
  • I also replaced the “crappy sailboat” 7135 for a “raptor claw” 7135 that I removed from another driver.
  • I then bench tested everything to make sure it worked before reassembly
  • I then reassembled everything yet again, being extra cautious every step of the way, especially with those aux LED wires
  • It worked!

This makes me feel better that you go through some of the same frustrations I do on mods.

And yes one thing I’ve learned for certain with 7135s, the good ones are good and the bad ones are bad.

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gchart wrote:
Finally got the boards in to convert my Amutorch E3 to Anduril2 with RGB Aux LEDs. It was a very tedious mod, but after a couple setbacks I think it turned out really well. I made a custom attiny1616-based FET+1 driver and used Loneoceans’s RGB Aux board for the FW3x series.

!{width:500px; max-width:75%}https://i.imgur.com/5s3yURG.jpg!


.
WOW that is Sweet to build a custom driver ghart !! Love
Not to take away from all these other great mods here lately. You guys are AWESOME !! Thumbs Up
Blazing new trails and ideas. Ol Lumens would have serious competition these days. Cool
.
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Great build gchart. Smile
I’m not a fan of how bulky are the latest Hank’s 18650 lights either.

djozz
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Today I adapted the GT4 handle for the Nano Glasses

(am bored today)

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5€ red flashlight with red osram Love

osram red
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djozz wrote:
Today I adapted the GT4 handle for the Nano Glasses

Almost perfect! I’d like to see a shoulder strap though Big Smile
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djozz wrote:
Today I adapted the GT4 handle for the Nano Glasses

(am bored today)


I guess it’s more comfortable now? Smile
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Nitecore PD EX11.2 w 219b 4500k 9080 D200 SW45k

I smile every time I see the Hot Pink tint Smile

on 16340:
minimum 0.03 lumens
maximum 300 lumens

WTB: Lumintop FWAA

MtnDon
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djozz wrote:
Today I adapted the GT4 handle for the Nano Glasses

(am bored today)

Good one !

I modded the state of charge of the Sony VCT6 in my FW3A today by removing the cell and placing it in my Liitokala charger.

NeutralFan
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Another nice 219B sw45k mod jon_slider! That is an amazing LED.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

jon_slider
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NeutralFan wrote:
Another nice 219B sw45k mod jon_slider! That is an amazing LED.
thank you very much for the kind and supportive words. You have very good taste..

fwiw, that Nitecore EX11.2 has an sw45k from Bob McBob. It is the most pink variant, a D200, highly recommended.

andy zhu also has sw45k, they are D220 and are nice too, less intensely pink.

in the past andy also had sw45, non k, and less pink of the three, but still has a slight pink tint, noticeable when compared to CW and Low CRI Leds whose DUV (Tint), is farther above the BBL

andy has a great variety of other 219b LEDs too..
I like the sw30 he has too, recommended.

WTB: Lumintop FWAA

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