What did you mod today?

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g_damian
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Dr scott Diabolical – Evil Genius wrote:
Liquid-cooled hack-sink, uh…. I mean heat sink.



!https://i.imgur.com/kFUkC8d.jpg!

Looks nice, but what is that?
Smile

g_damian
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Haukkeli wrote:
I built Convoy S3 with Luxeon MZ5700K 90cri, Convoys TIR lens and LD-A4 driver. Very nice paper white beam and very much heat. Good light to use in short bursts if run on turbo. On ~30% and ~4A gives plenty of light and heat is manageable.

Mine MZs are very green, good that your’s is better Smile

Haukkeli
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g_damian wrote:
Haukkeli wrote:
I built Convoy S3 with Luxeon MZ5700K 90cri, Convoys TIR lens and LD-A4 driver. Very nice paper white beam and very much heat. Good light to use in short bursts if run on turbo. On ~30% and ~4A gives plenty of light and heat is manageable.

Mine MZs are very green, good that your’s is better Smile

Thanks. I only bought these, because they were so cheap and seemed interesting. I’m positively surprised.

id30209
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Simple emitter swap in FWAA

 

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

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- The ring of the Sofirn SP36 and Wurkkos HD20 is the same size. There’s an o-ring on the HD20. I swap them. All photos with the aux on high.

- I also put a piece of electric tape behind the SP36 button as it was too bright even on low. Now the intensity on high is about the D4V2S aux green on low using wall bounce. It’s not intrusive at all yet I can see it at night.

- The green diffuser cap is from SX25A6 kit

- There’s an extra 2 moonlights for the HD20. You have to first switch to either flood or spot, turn it off completely and then activate moon. There’s 3 moon light brightness.










Redlyne22
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I’m really liking the all copper heat sink liquid cooler. I was wanting to make something very similar. Keep us posted please. Looking great so far.

Sometimes being a newb is the best part of a hobbie

ArtieT59
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Barely a "Mod" but this was something i learned on a sales thread here on BLF recently and it was AWESOMEly helpful to not scratch the beautiful finish of my brand new light! thanks to the ingenuity of Timbo114 (or Boaz, depends who you ask Wink ) and mattlward for bringing this to my attention! 

 

The Soda Straw Trick (TM)

Compared to the below THIS travesty on my green one!

 

It worked Great! and because the clip is so tight to begin with, i think small pieces of the straw is still stuck underneath which is fine with me because its added just a little tension and "slip resistance"

 

Thanks again! Wish i knew about this before!

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

texas shooter
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Another no scratch trick is to put a layer of electrical or duct tape on the underside of the clip. Trim with scalpel or sharp knife before clipping it on. Small straws slipped over the ends also work if not picky about it’s visibility

MascaratumB
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I modded a Jaxman E3 and a Convoy T2.

The Jaxman E3 was turned into a triple. Pieces:
- MCPCB and TIR optic from FWAAs
- LEDs: I replaced the original Nichia 5000K 70 CRI for some Nichia 5700K 90CRI
- Driver: H17f from MTN Electronics
- Forward Clicky Switch
- Battery tube from the Convoy T2
- Clip, screws and bezel “torched” for a darker mood
- GITD powder + UV glue for the “GITD dot” in the pocket clip
- blue GITD tape for inner “after glow”

Besides the hole in te middle of the shelf (to pass the wires), no major mods were made to the host.
I had to use the driver retaining ring reversed so that it made contact with the driver without damaging the 7135 chips.
The fwd clicky switch had the 4 corners filed to fit well in the tailcap.
I also used an aluminium “spacer” from led4power and a brass ring to prevent the spacer from moving.

The Convoy T2 now has:
- L4P MCPCB with Luxeon V2 3000K
- Driver: H17f from MTN Electronics
- Forward Clicky Switch
- Clip, screws and bezel “torched” for a darker mood
- GITD powder + UV glue for the “GITD dot” in the pocket clip

The tube is from my older Convoy. Like in the Jaxman E3, I had to use the driver retaining ring reversed and I filed the fwd clicky switch 4 corners.
I had to file/grind the shelf (because it has some inner raised edges) and I had to fo the same with the 16mm PCB to make it smaller in diameter. The reflector in use is the original.

This is how they look like:

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Nice pocket pair MascaratumB Thumbs Up

  

jon_slider
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MascaratumB wrote:
The Jaxman E3 was turned into a triple. Pieces: - MCPCB and TIR optic from FWAAs

wow! great mods!
you sacrificed Anduril in favor of H17f…
got rid of the FWAA eSwitch… and
gained a much better pocket clip too

great LED pairing!
I like warm and cooler pairings too:

Geuzzz
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Very nice MascaratumB Thumbs Up

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I attempted to mod a Zebralight again today. This time my SC80, hoping to replace the cool white XPG with something more modern.

Still no luck.

I can’t get anything at all under the lens retaining ring. Even the tip of a fresh exacto knife blade won’t go in.

Also, pressing down on the lens seems to do nothing. The lens does not go down and there is no gap to insert anything. Perhaps I need to press harder? Or maybe I need to destroy the lens to remove the ring?

MascaratumB
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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
Nice pocket pair MascaratumB Thumbs Up

Thanks pinkpanda3310 Wink This way each one won’t feel alone Big Smile
jon_slider wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
The Jaxman E3 was turned into a triple. Pieces: - MCPCB and TIR optic from FWAAs

wow! great mods!
you sacrificed Anduril in favor of H17f…
got rid of the FWAA eSwitch… and
gained a much better pocket clip too

great LED pairing!
I like warm and cooler pairings too (…)


Thanks jon_slider Wink
Yup, in this case I sacrificed because I saw that the MCPCB from the FWAA fitted perfcetly, unlike my previous attempt here ! The FWAA and the Anduril driver will hopefully serve other purposes, or not. I haven’t found a good solution to make it work again, due to the PCB/head diameter and height.

But now I a have this T2 in 3000K, the FWAA in 4000K and the E3 in 5700K and I am happy with them , despite not all are Nichias or high CRI Wink

Geuzzz wrote:
Very nice MascaratumB Thumbs Up

Thank you Geuzzz Wink

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Firelight2 wrote:
Or maybe I need to destroy the lens to remove the ring?

As far as I am aware this is what others have done.

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Smashing the lens is how I’ve done it before but now after following id30209’s advice I hammer a thin tool (a knife, he uses a thin flat screwdriver) at a shallow angle. On the SC64 and H600 the tool gets quite easily under the retention ring, on a H53 I had to hammer pretty hard, now I’m off to try that on a SC700D but I heard it was harder on this model.

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Thermal shock methods can work wonders. Get a can of CO2 duster and a small butane torch. Heat the aluminum evenly as hot as you feel can be safely tolerated by the light. Ideally the light will be held in a vice bezel up. Have your prying tool ready, and then spray the CO2 duster inverted on the glass/ss until frosty (15-20s). Go for it!

id30209
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thefreeman wrote:
Smashing the lens is how I’ve done it before but now after following id30209’s advice I hammer a thin tool (a knife, he uses a thin flat screwdriver) at a shallow angle. On the SC64 and H600 the tool gets quite easily under the retention ring, on a H53 I had to hammer pretty hard, now I’m off to try that on a SC700D but I heard it was harder on this model.
 

 

You were right, a thin screwdriver at a shallow angle do the magic.

And SC700D is even easier to open. Bezel ring is not that hard pressed in

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

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id30209 wrote:

thefreeman wrote:
Smashing the lens is how I’ve done it before but now after following id30209’s advice I hammer a thin tool (a knife, he uses a thin flat screwdriver) at a shallow angle. On the SC64 and H600 the tool gets quite easily under the retention ring, on a H53 I had to hammer pretty hard, now I’m off to try that on a SC700D but I heard it was harder on this model.
 

 


You were right, a thin screwdriver at a shallow angle do the magic.


And SC700D is even easier to open. Bezel ring is not that hard pressed in

I suspect the bigger Zebras are easier to open. The wider the bezel ring the shallower the angle you can get to insert your wedge. The edge of the ring doesn’t have to dig in so much as the bezel angles under the edge.

I probably should not start with the SC80. It has the smallest bezel diameter of all the Zebras. Even smaller than the SC52.

I love the feel in the hand of the SC80. Extremely grippy with a super-recessed button. And it has an innovative system with a driver that accepts a wide voltage range. It runs on 1.5v AA, CR123, 16340, 14500, and 16500.

Unfortunately, the 200 lumen low-CRI cool white output from an XPG just doesn’t cut it today. Wish Zebralight did an update of the SC80…. same body and head, but with a higher output driver and modern emitter.

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Very nice MascaratumB Cool
Good to see some modding from you. Big Smile

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id30209 wrote:

 


You were right, a thin screwdriver at a shallow angle do the magic.


And SC700D is even easier to open. Bezel ring is not that hard pressed in

you’re right, it was the easiest one.

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CNCman wrote:
Very nice MascaratumB Cool
Good to see some modding from you. Big Smile

Thanks CNCman Wink
And likewise, I always appreciate your mods Wink I guess I just don’t have the creativity to go for the bigger ones as you do Wink Grad So I stay for the smaller ones Blushing
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MascaratumB wrote:
CNCman wrote:
Very nice MascaratumB Cool
Good to see some modding from you. Big Smile

Thanks CNCman Wink
And likewise, I always appreciate your mods Wink I guess I just don’t have the creativity to go for the bigger ones as you do Wink Grad So I stay for the smaller ones Blushing

.
Really size doe not matter Wink Your creativity in the last 2 OL contests are unmatched Big Smile
It’s really about friends sharing their love of lights of all kinds and sizes as you are continuously contributing. Grad
Your number of posts says a lot Cool I’m honored to be your friend here at BLF. Big Smile
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Xandre wrote:
Modding the Wavien:

https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/threads/s-ansmaxabeam-nachtt%C3%B6pfl...

Regards Xandre

32 MLUX…. wow Steve

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Swapped the cool white LED in an Olight Mini Warrior 2 for a 4000k LH351D. Much nicer tint, but definitely lost a few lumens. Then again, I almost always use my lights on medium or lower, so not an issue for me.

Let the Darkness become As Day.

MoreLumens
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Msf wrote:
Swapped the cool white LED in an Olight Mini Warrior 2 for a 4000k LH351D. Much nicer tint, but definitely lost a few lumens. Then again, I almost always use my lights on medium or lower, so not an issue for me.

You should try sliced 5000k. Thumbs Up

e1000
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Msf wrote:
cool white LED in an Olight

no need to be redundant buddy

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CNCman wrote:
Really size doe not matter Wink Your creativity in the last 2 OL contests are unmatched Big Smile It’s really about friends sharing their love of lights of all kinds and sizes as you are continuously contributing. Grad Your number of posts says a lot Cool I’m honored to be your friend here at BLF. Big Smile

Thanks for your kind words CNCman Blushing Indeed, in the end of the day, what brings us together here and that leads us to share our passions, mods and experiences, is what matters the most Wink And if it is flashlights, so be it Beer

I would say that what I did in these lights and in the contests are things of a simple mind searching for some fun within the hobby! Though,thanks for appreciation and I am also honored for sharing this place with you and your works as well Wink

Kind regards Beer

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Xandre wrote:
Modding the Wavien:

https://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/threads/s-ansmaxabeam-nachtt%C3%B6pfl...

Regards Xandre


.
Now that is to complicated for me to understand. I will look more into this weekend. But that is some serious modding going on over there at TLF. Thanks for sharing that over here at BLF. Big Smile
I will check out your forum as well. Wink
.

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