What did you mod today?

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JaredM
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Great work on the beam Artie! Knew you could do it Beer

https://fundrazr.com/osturaband

No affiliation, just a fan.

Pacolux
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What a big improvement in the beam, how did you get it? I have some beams like this and I don’t know whether to sand the centering ring from above or below

Firelight2
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I got around to trying the SST-20 4000K 95 CRI FD2 bin emitters I had laying around. Wow! Great tint. Not green even at low power levels. Much better than any other SST-20s I’d tried.

I had 8 of them, and over the last week installed all of them into the following lights:

  • Zebralight SC52w triple

  • Sofirn SC21 – big improvement in tint, color temp and CRI over the stock 90 CRI 5000K LH351D.
  • Jetbeam TCR-01 – this light is using the 2020 RRT-01 driver. The SST-20 looks much better than the sliced Dogfarts LH351 that I previously had in this light.
  • Lumintop Tool AA Ti
  • Eagletac D25a Ti early version (no brass pill) – high output since this light also had a driver swap to a FET driver. Head gets quite hot.
  • Eagletac D25a Ti late version (brass pill) – dimmer, but still looks good.

In every case, the new emitter was a noticeable improvement over what I had in the light. Big improvement over the XPL HI and sliced Dogfarts those lights used to sport. I’m quite happy with these emitters. So happy that I just ordered 15 more.

JaredM
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Firelight2 wrote:
I got around to trying the SST-20 4000K 95 CRI FD2 bin emitters I had laying around. …. I’m quite happy with these emitters. So happy that I just ordered 15 more.

Where from?

https://fundrazr.com/osturaband

No affiliation, just a fan.

Firelight2
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Kaidomain

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Pacolux wrote:
Thanks I will take it into account although I can do little, the day it explodes I will put another driver and an sft40. by the way do you know what version of xplhi it has?

Stock its not HI version, just regular CW XPL dedomed but they have a good dedoming recipe so the tint shift is not huge.

 

ArtieT59
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contactcr wrote:
Good work on the focusing. The result looks good. If you take a bit over exposed picture you can see even better that your new beam is very parallel lines on the edge of the main hot spot.

 

thank you! And thank you for the advice I didn't know that. I know very little woth the photography aspect of things lol

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561

ArtieT59
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JaredM wrote:
Great work on the beam Artie! Knew you could do it :BEER:

 

thanks JaredM! LOL

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561

ArtieT59
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Pacolux wrote:
What a big improvement in the beam, how did you get it? I have some beams like this and I don't know whether to sand the centering ring from above or below

 

so I shaped the inside bottom (the side of the centering ring that touches the mcpcb) with a dremel so that I widened the centering ring to fit around the sft40. The problem was that every 4040 centering ring I had wouldn't fit around the very slightly larger sft40. The 5050 ones fit but we're too large. So I slightly widened the bottom of the 4040 CR, into like a cone shape so it became pressure fit into the emitter corners when I put the bezel on. Worked very well and automatically centered itself because of the pressure fit / cone shape

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561

ArtieT59
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Sometimes I have to sand the top of the centering ring so it doesn't protrude past the reflector opening, as that causes wierd beam effects too. The need to be flush with the opening of the reflector. Not above or below, usually.

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561

Pacolux
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Sirius9 wrote:
Pacolux wrote:
Thanks I will take it into account although I can do little, the day it explodes I will put another driver and an sft40. by the way do you know what version of xplhi it has?

Stock its not HI version, just regular CW XPL dedomed but they have a good dedoming recipe so the tint shift is not huge.

my olight did come with a stock xpl-hi
rio immagina
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Firelight2 wrote:
  • Eagletac D25a Ti early version (no brass pill) – high output since this light also had a driver swap to a FET driver. Head gets quite hot.
  • Eagletac D25a Ti late version (brass pill) – dimmer, but still looks good.

I thought the D25a was not moddable, since no bezel. Can the pill be popped out?

Firelight2
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rio immagina wrote:
I thought the D25a was not moddable, since no bezel. Can the pill be popped out?

There are actually 2 versions of the Eagletac D25a Ti, one with pill and one without. Both can be modded.

The early version D25a Ti has a bezel and no pill and is easier to mod

  • The battery tube screws into the head.
  • It is entirely made of Titanium.
  • The bezel is not glued and unscrews so emitter swaps are easy. There is room for a standard Noctigon star with the edges filed down slightly.
  • The one downside is the driver wires are thin and have PVC insulation which tends to melt when soldering the leads to the star.
  • The aluminum version D25a also followed this same construction, except the head was aluminum and the bezel was blackened steel.

The revised version of the D25a Ti has a brass pill

  • The head (with glued in pill) screws into the battery tube.
  • This revision was done to eliminate the gritty feeling users complained of when swapping mode groups in the first version (which required slightly unscrewing the head). Instead of Ti-on-Ti it is now Brass-on-Ti.
  • The revised version contains a brass pill. The top half of the pill’s threads screw into the titanium head. The bottom half screws into the battery tube when changing batteries. Both sides have o-rings to provide waterproofing.
  • The head is secured to the brass pill with a small amount of red threadlocker. I believe this was done to eliminate the chance the user might accidentally unscrew the head when they wanted to change the battery.
  • It is possible to mod the revised version D25a by forcefully unscrewing the head from the pill to break the threadlocker.
  • To break the threadlocker I used 3M safety walk tape on the head coupled with pliers on the brass threads of the pill. The pliers left a few minor scratches in the pill, but this isn’t an issue since it does not affect operation and they are not visible when the battery tube is screwed on.
  • Once the threadlocker is broken, changing emitters is easy. Just unscrew the head from the pill. The star sits exposed on the top of the pill.
  • The light comes with a thin aluminum star. Unfortunately, it is not practical to use a thicker copper star as that would cause the head to not screw in all the way. And if it doesn’t screw in all the way it won’t cover its o-ring. Without the o-ring covered, the head won’t tighten onto the pill. Without that, when you change the battery the head will come apart rather than the battery tube coming off. I recommend using the stock star and reflowing your choice of XPG footprint emitter onto it.
  • It is not necessary to replace the threadlocker after modding. Just screw the head really tightly onto the pill and don’t tighten the battery tube as tightly.
  • The revised D25a has the same issue of PVC insulated wires. Mine were good for probably 5 or 6 emitter swaps before I had issues and replaced them with Silicone wires. The driver is press-fit and can be levered out with the edge of a knife.
  • I believe these revisions were also done to the D25c. And all current model similar Eagletacs such as the D3A and D3C also use the same design.

zumlin
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Hi there, my first post in BLF and my first major build ever. I present to you a Convoy S2+ UV mule

I was a member in candlepowerforums a long time ago. I took about a 17 year break from flashlights and recently became an enthusiast again.

emitters: LG LEUVA33W70RL00 × 4
driver: P4000 5A 20mm buck driver from Kaidomain
lens: ZWB2 filter from Convoy
tailor made copper spacer between mcpcb and pill
3D printed PLA ring between mcpcb and lens (I know PLA is not the best choice, but I am a newbie in 3D printing and literally got my 3D printer less than a month ago, I will probably print one in PETG when I get more familiar)
It runs on 2 × 18350 in series with a Convoy pcb board
Unfortunately it’s a tight fit even with the spring from the driver removed so the 2 18350 batteries have been dented slightly

CNCman
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Welcome to BLF ‘zumlin’ Cool
Nice mod, I love the color. Love

JaredM
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zumlin wrote:

I second the appreciation for that ano color. Which this deep violet would be more common.

Welcome and nice mod!

https://fundrazr.com/osturaband

No affiliation, just a fan.

Correllux
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Nice. I love the violet host for UV…wish Simon would sell them already made up that way. Sounds like a smart build going for series/buck. Can you nip a coil from the tail spring and gain any room?

Great photo, btw!

ArtieT59
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zumlin wrote:
Hi there, my first post in BLF and my first major build ever. I present to you a Convoy S2+ UV mule I was a member in candlepowerforums a long time ago. I took about a 17 year break from flashlights and recently became an enthusiast again. emitters: LG LEUVA33W70RL00 x 4 driver: P4000 5A 20mm buck driver from Kaidomain lens: ZWB2 filter from Convoy tailor made copper spacer between mcpcb and pill 3D printed PLA ring between mcpcb and lens (I know PLA is not the best choice, but I am a newbie in 3D printing and literally got my 3D printed less than a month ago, I will probably print one in PETG when I get more familiar) It runs on 2 x 18350 in series with a "Convoy pcb board":https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003318392595.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc... Unfortunately it's a tight fit even with the spring from the driver removed so the 2 18350 batteries have been dented slightly !https://i.imgur.com/4G9LsSU.jpeg!

 

wow that light is beautiful! welcome!

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561

raccoon city
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Have a pleasant time at this friendly forum, zumlin!

Nice shade of violet!

213_milla

zumlin
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Correllux wrote:
Nice. I love the violet host for UV…wish Simon would sell them already made up that way. Sounds like a smart build going for series/buck. Can you nip a coil from the tail spring and gain any room?

Great photo, btw!

It won’t help unfortunately. It is actually the retaining ring of the switch that is pushing against the battery.

rio immagina
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Firelight2 wrote:
rio immagina wrote:
I thought the D25a was not moddable, since no bezel. Can the pill be popped out?

There are actually 2 versions of the Eagletac D25a Ti, one with pill and one without. Both can be modded.

The early version D25a Ti has a bezel and no pill and is easier to mod

  • The battery tube screws into the head.
  • It is entirely made of Titanium.
  • The bezel is not glued and unscrews so emitter swaps are easy. There is room for a standard Noctigon star with the edges filed down slightly.
  • The one downside is the driver wires are thin and have PVC insulation which tends to melt when soldering the leads to the star.
  • The aluminum version D25a also followed this same construction, except the head was aluminum and the bezel was blackened steel.

The revised version of the D25a Ti has a brass pill

  • The head (with glued in pill) screws into the battery tube.
  • This revision was done to eliminate the gritty feeling users complained of when swapping mode groups in the first version (which required slightly unscrewing the head). Instead of Ti-on-Ti it is now Brass-on-Ti.
  • The revised version contains a brass pill. The top half of the pill’s threads screw into the titanium head. The bottom half screws into the battery tube when changing batteries. Both sides have o-rings to provide waterproofing.
  • The head is secured to the brass pill with a small amount of red threadlocker. I believe this was done to eliminate the chance the user might accidentally unscrew the head when they wanted to change the battery.
  • It is possible to mod the revised version D25a by forcefully unscrewing the head from the pill to break the threadlocker.
  • To break the threadlocker I used 3M safety walk tape on the head coupled with pliers on the brass threads of the pill. The pliers left a few minor scratches in the pill, but this isn’t an issue since it does not affect operation and they are not visible when the battery tube is screwed on.
  • Once the threadlocker is broken, changing emitters is easy. Just unscrew the head from the pill. The star sits exposed on the top of the pill.
  • The light comes with a thin aluminum star. Unfortunately, it is not practical to use a thicker copper star as that would cause the head to not screw in all the way. And if it doesn’t screw in all the way it won’t cover its o-ring. Without the o-ring covered, the head won’t tighten onto the pill. Without that, when you change the battery the head will come apart rather than the battery tube coming off. I recommend using the stock star and reflowing your choice of XPG footprint emitter onto it.
  • It is not necessary to replace the threadlocker after modding. Just screw the head really tightly onto the pill and don’t tighten the battery tube as tightly.
  • The revised D25a has the same issue of PVC insulated wires. Mine were good for probably 5 or 6 emitter swaps before I had issues and replaced them with Silicone wires. The driver is press-fit and can be levered out with the edge of a knife.
  • I believe these revisions were also done to the D25c. And all current model similar Eagletacs such as the D3A and D3C also use the same design.

Thank you Firelight2, this is very informative!

So, maybe I could build a D3A around that 15mm driver from copper and current.

Cheers!

JaredM
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zumlin wrote:
Correllux wrote:
Nice. I love the violet host for UV…wish Simon would sell them already made up that way. Sounds like a smart build going for series/buck. Can you nip a coil from the tail spring and gain any room?

Great photo, btw!

It won’t help unfortunately. It is actually the retaining ring of the switch that is pushing against the battery.

You could also try filing down the front-most few threads on the pill so that it screws in further

https://fundrazr.com/osturaband

No affiliation, just a fan.

jon_slider
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Jetbeam TCR-1 mod to sw45k

.

.

Pacolux
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I plan to put together a l6 convoy with a luminus sft70. Do you know of a 30mm driver for this 6V led? I need a strong one because surely this led will last more than 10A

Rayoui
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It may not be 10A, but can’t you just use the XHP70.2 driver that is made for the L6?

Scallywag
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Rayoui wrote:
It may not be 10A, but can’t you just use the XHP70.2 driver that is made for the L6?

Should work fine. There’s a notable lack of enthusiast drivers (particularly, anything using Anduril) for 2S input
Firelight2
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Got my second shipment of FD2 bin SST20s last night.

Immediately installed half of them into my DQG Tiny IV triple and my modded Emisar D4 with lighted metal switch.

I love this emitter! Blows away all other SST-20s I’ve seen. Creamy rosy tint even at low power settings. Makes even the SST-20s that came with my FWAA look like crap. Much rosier than even XPL HI 5D.

I think I should order more.

Haukkeli
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I built Convoy M21C with Xhp35.2 6500K 80cri from Kaidomain. I used Convoys 12V 2,5A boost driver with it.

Hotspot had weird yellowish center with tiny blue dot in it. Around that yellow area beam was about 6500K as it should.

After some use emitter had donut hole symptoms and I checked the reason. Whole emitting surface was charred black. I cleaned it and underneath the black stuff the led was perfect. After that I tried it again. No more yellow area and no more charring.

Seems to handle 2,5A well. I don’t know the reason for charring. I cleaned the led with q-tip and electric cleaner just before closing the bezel. After the charring I cleaned it with same method and it seems to work just fine.

Maybe I burned and cleaned extra CRI values away. Big Smile

Edit: corrected typo

Pacolux
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Rayoui wrote:
It may not be 10A, but can’t you just use the XHP70.2 driver that is made for the L6?

only 5A? I think it would be wasting a sft70
Scallywag
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Pacolux wrote:
Rayoui wrote:
It may not be 10A, but can’t you just use the XHP70.2 driver that is made for the L6?

only 5A? I think it would be wasting a sft70

There’s 30mm FET driver for 2S input (suitable for L6 with XHP70.2). Would that work?

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