What did you mod today?

10719 posts / 0 new
Last post
Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 35 min 34 sec ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 4756
Location: California

Two mods this last week:

Swapped driver in early-version Eagletac D25A Ti

  • Previously I had a FET driver with Guppydrv rev 1 inside.
  • I replaced it with a FET driver with Toykeeper’s Crescendo firmware. This is the first time I’ve tried Crescendo and it is quite nice. With the new ramping firmware with shortcuts to min and max, a lighted switch and 95 CRI SST-20 FD2 emitter, plus Eagletac’s excellent clip, this makes a really fantastic and classy looking EDC.

Modified clip for Acebeam TK17 Ti

  • This is a pricey light that I got at a huge discount. A lot of that price is probably from the pretty solid silver and gold clip.
  • Unfortunately, while the stock clip may look good, I consider it completely unusable as a clip. The biggest problem is the gold accents that bend over the side of the clip have tips that catch on clothing and belts. The clip will literally tear up and destroy whatever you clip it to. Also, the silver isn’t elastic, so the clip screws tend to unscrew themselves.
  • I replaced it with a heavily modified convoy clip (enlarged holes, dremeled indents near the base of the clip, end of the clip chopped off and filed down).

mattlward
mattlward's picture
Offline
Last seen: 15 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 06/19/2015 - 09:20
Posts: 3235
Location: Illinois, USA

Scallywag wrote:
mattlward wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
Got my second shipment of FD2 bin SST20s last night.

Immediately installed half of them into my DQG Tiny IV triple and my modded Emisar D4 with lighted metal switch.

I love this emitter! Blows away all other SST-20s I’ve seen. Creamy rosy tint even at low power settings. Makes even the SST-20s that came with my FWAA look like crap. Much rosier than even XPL HI 5D.

I think I should order more.

Where did you get these? I only have a few and have several lights I would like to put them in. I could not agree more about the tint and DUV, my D4V2 and D4SV2 both have them and I would love them in my SST-20 FW3A and FWAA. I am not sure that I would grade them as better tint than the XP-L 5A2 or 5A3, but the CRI is far better.


Likely Kaidomain

Exactly where they came from and they are good ones.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k

Scallywag
Scallywag's picture
Offline
Last seen: 19 hours 21 min ago
Joined: 01/11/2018 - 22:23
Posts: 2200
Location: Ohio, United States

djozz wrote:

Today I made an EDC to fit the new F14 18350 battery from Vapcell.

Since the F14 retains its great capacity up to 3A but not higher (1300mAh@3A, HKJ’s test here), a 8×7135 current regulated driver is needed, while all my current 18350 EDC’s have direct drivers (mostly BLF-A6 versions). So a new mod was required.

I used a Jaxman E2L host, the latest 8×7135 driver from Simon (link), three oldschool Nichia 219B V1 SW40 R9080 D200 leds from Clemence, a ring-shaped tail-PCP from Oshpark slightly sanded smaller to fit the tail cavity (a pilotdog68 design, this one) with 6 cyan 485nm 0603 leds (each led with a 1.5 kOhm resistor in series).

The driver is set to mode group 1.2 : 0.1%-1%-10%-35%-100%, no memory.

The output on 100% (3.04 A) is 560 lumen, the tint is 3900K and very close to the BBL, visually it looks very neutral with no hints of green or yellow. CRI is as expected above 95 on all brightness settings, with R9 between 80 and 90. The tail leds are not ultra-bright but well visible in dim surroundings and they draw 0.18mA current which should be good for over 300 days on a battery charge. The emitted wavelength is exactly 500nm (cyan leds emit a higher than listed wavelength when at very low currents).

One remark about using a lighted switch in combination with this driver: Simon mentions on his website that this driver supports a lighted switch, without having to add a bleeder resistor. Although this is correct, and the user interface is stable with tail leds functioning, the driver struggles to provide enough voltage to light up blue or even green tail leds, red is fine. You can compensate some of this with lower than usual value resistors in the tail but blue never becomes bright. I think that some battery voltage is eaten on the driver before feeding the tail leds.


I’ve been tempted to make an E2L-based 18350 EDC myself, just to use a smart-tail board I have from gchart.
mattlward
mattlward's picture
Offline
Last seen: 15 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 06/19/2015 - 09:20
Posts: 3235
Location: Illinois, USA
Pacolux wrote:
I think these are the best c8 size hosts to handle heat, there is a lot of material underneath the mcpcb. one sft40 and one sst70 with convoy drivers € 10,18 | Controlador 8A para KW CULPM1.TG https://a.aliexpress.com/_vEGcY0 € 9,87 | Controlador XHP70.2 para una celda https://a.aliexpress.com/_uGOqG0

Wow, those are really good looking hosts! Look to be 26650, so one could use 18650, 21700 and 26650’s.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k

Lotus_Darkrose
Offline
Last seen: 15 hours 1 min ago
Joined: 06/20/2014 - 13:50
Posts: 172
Location: Lower Michigan

Today I swapped drivers between a Helius Beta VI penlight and a Lumintop IYP 365, changed out the XP-G2 in my Lumapower Incendio V3 for a Nichia 219B, and turned a cheap 3xaaa light into an 18650 triple. Can’t wait to get my parts in I ordered from various websites for other plans in the works.

djozz
djozz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 17 min ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 18085
Location: Amsterdam

Scallywag wrote:

I’ve been tempted to make an E2L-based 18350 EDC myself, just to use a smart-tail board I have from gchart.

That is very cool. I’m a flatworm with computers so flashing chips is out of the question, which I am ok with except for gchart’s smart tails, I’d love to be able to use those.
Sari33
Offline
Last seen: 23 hours 26 min ago
Joined: 07/17/2019 - 05:43
Posts: 461
Location: EU

Quick mod,45°pebbled lens (right) on C01R


Bought here
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/32989679045.html

_the_
_the_'s picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 54 min ago
Joined: 07/08/2011 - 06:22
Posts: 3647
Location: Finland

tamadedan wrote:
Only pushing 5.6v versus the expected 14.4v off bench power. Same issue off 8xM35A 4S2P. Cells test good. Wires test good. Only leaves the PCB as the issue…

I just rebuilt two Polarion packs and one of them is fine (14.4V), but the other one shows this exact issue (only 5.55V between P+ and P-). It’s probably noteworthy that the PCBs were different and the one that works looks older..

The voltage between V+ and V- is 14.4V, so the pack is correctly built. Balancing wires are showing correct 3.6, 7.2, and 10.8V, respectively.

I’m afraid they have built in a “safety” program that kills the output after seeing a severe undervoltage (or after some amount of charge cycles? they repeatedly mention that the battery is good for 400 cycles only..).

Does anyone know how to reset that?

=the=

 

jon_slider
jon_slider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 59 min ago
Joined: 09/08/2015 - 12:20
Posts: 5225
Location: Central North America
Scallywag wrote:
Swapped 219B sw30 into my 2019 RRT-01. Super easy swap, and I already had a good Kaidomain reflector and gasket

congrats on your mod of the 2019 RRT-01.. I did not know the reflector needed replacing, but glad to hear the ones we use for the 2012 model, that moderator007 sourced from kaidomain, works in the 2019 model also..

Scallywag wrote:
My VR 10 Ti+ was more challenging…. I believe the LED- wire intermittently shorted to ground.

very sorry for the damaged driver, I hope you manage to get it fixed.

fwiw, with the V10r Ti+ reflector, I find the unshaved LH351D produces a perfect beam.. I like the 2700K… shown in a V11R

the beams:
.

Geuzzz
Geuzzz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 32 min ago
Joined: 10/25/2015 - 10:27
Posts: 1469
Location: Netherlands

Did not do much of the work myself. But finally had the time to play with my Bob_McBob SC64 with sw30 219b.

Set the modes up nicely and added a Ti deep carry clip and a wrapped tail magnet.

djozz
djozz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 17 min ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 18085
Location: Amsterdam

Nice clip and magnet Thumbs Up

Scallywag
Scallywag's picture
Offline
Last seen: 19 hours 21 min ago
Joined: 01/11/2018 - 22:23
Posts: 2200
Location: Ohio, United States
jon_slider wrote:
Scallywag wrote:
Swapped 219B sw30 into my 2019 RRT-01. Super easy swap, and I already had a good Kaidomain reflector and gasket

congrats on your mod of the 2019 RRT-01.. I did not know the reflector needed replacing, but glad to hear the ones we use for the 2012 model, that moderator007 sourced from kaidomain, works in the 2019 model also..

Scallywag wrote:
My VR 10 Ti+ was more challenging…. I believe the LED- wire intermittently shorted to ground.

very sorry for the damaged driver, I hope you manage to get it fixed.

fwiw, with the V10r Ti+ reflector, I find the unshaved LH351D produces a perfect beam.. I like the 2700K… shown in a V11R

the beams:
.


It might be pre-2019. I only really know it came with XM-L(2?) and no tail switch.
jon_slider
jon_slider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 59 min ago
Joined: 09/08/2015 - 12:20
Posts: 5225
Location: Central North America

Scallywag wrote:
It might be pre-2019. I only really know it came with XM-L(2?) and no tail switch.

here are two RRT-01, both are no tailswitch versions:

the 2019 uses an XP mcpcb, does not require removing the driver when splitting the control ring (the design is same as V10/V11 sunwayman)

the original uses an XM mcpcb, and requires removing the driver before splitting the control ring assembly

Geuzzz
Geuzzz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 32 min ago
Joined: 10/25/2015 - 10:27
Posts: 1469
Location: Netherlands
djozz wrote:
Nice clip and magnet Thumbs Up

Thnx! Really like your ‘‘old school’‘ Jaxman E2L edc.

jon_slider
jon_slider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 59 min ago
Joined: 09/08/2015 - 12:20
Posts: 5225
Location: Central North America

Geuzzz wrote:
Modded my s mini ti. 3000k 85cri xml2

.


I just received a Ti S Mini
.

I want to change the LED.

Do you think a 219b can work in a Ti S Mini if I change the Tir to a 17mm Tir for 3535 footprint ?

Geuzzz
Geuzzz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 32 min ago
Joined: 10/25/2015 - 10:27
Posts: 1469
Location: Netherlands

Certainly if the optic fits. Certainly not if you use the original optic. Maybe good to have an xml2 as backup. It’s not a very hard mod to do btw, just work your way around the bezel with a knife to open it up. Have you seen the video by – X3 – ?

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 35 min 34 sec ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 4756
Location: California

Why wouldn’t the original optic work with 219B?

I have many lights that have reflectors or optics sized for XML2 or XPG.

In my experience, the emitters are interchangeable. The beam might not always be perfect when swapping LEDs, but they always work well enough.

Geuzzz
Geuzzz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 32 min ago
Joined: 10/25/2015 - 10:27
Posts: 1469
Location: Netherlands

I tried the optic over an 219 when I opened the light the first time and it was not nice enough for me. I have a feeling Jon is a bit snobbish about his beams also.

jon_slider
jon_slider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 59 min ago
Joined: 09/08/2015 - 12:20
Posts: 5225
Location: Central North America

Geuzzz wrote:
Certainly if the optic fits. Certainly not if you use the original optic.

yes, Ive been reading the teardown threads, including for the S1 Mini.. which is where the Yaji Tir are mentioned.

And Ive read that the main obstacle to a S Mini mod to 219b is the stock XML2 Tir… hence my interest in a Tir swap to Yaji 3535 profile.

Ive not confirmed if the S1 Mini and the S Mini use the same size Tir, but I did read that the 17mm Tir fits the S1 Mini.

Firelight2 wrote:
Why wouldn’t the original optic work with 219B?

Urban Widsom or Urban Legend…

I trust Geuzzz, since hes actually done it, and also X3..

so.. just covering bases..
I can start with a 219b in the stock XM Tir, to confirm how horrible it is..
then have a couple backup options:
backup Pebble Tir,
backup XM-L2 LED

there is also an Aspheric Tir that I find very appealing

fwiw here is the stock XML2 beam:

sw30, sw45k, NW XM-L2:

thank you both for the brainstorming… Im working up my courage to slip a blade between the bezel

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 35 min 34 sec ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 4756
Location: California

Wow!!! That’s pea-soup green! Sick Sick Sick

Definitely needs a new emitter. Just about anything would be better than that.

Scallywag
Scallywag's picture
Offline
Last seen: 19 hours 21 min ago
Joined: 01/11/2018 - 22:23
Posts: 2200
Location: Ohio, United States

Most optics I’ve dealt with that are designed for XM-L/2 provide crap beams for 3535. Original RRT01 beam was crap even with 4040 (luxeon V).

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 35 min 34 sec ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 4756
Location: California
Scallywag wrote:
Most optics I’ve dealt with that are designed for XM-L/2 provide crap beams for 3535. Original RRT01 beam was crap even with 4040 (luxeon V).

I’m using an original OP reflector from an early version Niteye Eye10 in my TCR-01 with SST-20 right now. I quite like it.

The beam is pleasantly smooth with good throw. Sure the outer edge of the spill is slightly brighter than the rest of the spill, but it’s almost unnoticeable…. even in a white wall test. In real-world use I don’t see it at all the beam looks perfect. I have many lights with orange-peel reflectors designed for their emitters that look much worse.

In my older RRT-01 I currently have a different OP reflector which I purchased from Kaidomain years ago (I think). It gives an even more uniform beam than the Eye10’s beam, but has a noticeably dimmer hotspot.

My original RRT-01 and TCR-01 both came with the same smooth reflector that was absolutely horrible. It produced a horrendously ringy beam even with the XML-2 emitters that came with those lights. Yuck!

CRC
CRC's picture
Offline
Last seen: 18 hours 45 min ago
Joined: 06/11/2021 - 23:30
Posts: 349

Considering what others are doing here, this can hardly be considered a mod.
But im happy with it and figured id share.

On my Wurkkos FC12, the tail switch cover has the tiniest bit of play before it contacts the actual switch.
This bothered me enough to want to fix it.
All it is, is that theres a bit of a gap between the rubber cover and the actual switch.
I decided to fill this gap with a small piece of silicone.
I diddnt take photos along the way so I made an illustartion with MS Paint.

The piece of silicone ended up being a tad thicker than needed resulting in the button cover now protruding a tad further than it did before and prevents tail standing.
Im fine with this, since it diddnt tail stand very stable to begin with nor do I use this particular light that way, as well as I plan to mill the tabs off soon anyway for a fully proud button.
I dont have a before pic, but heres a photo of it now. Hopefully you can see that it is ‘bulging’ more than it should.

Unexpected added benefit is that it is now super easy to half press (momentary) the switch.
It has a “hair trigger” so to speak.
I guess the silicone is thick enough that the switch is being pressed just a little bit.
Heres a short 17 second clip demonstrating.

Correllux
Correllux's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 4 min ago
Joined: 04/27/2019 - 22:23
Posts: 583
Location: USA

CRC wrote:
Considering what others are doing here, this can hardly be considered a mod.
But im happy with it and figured id share.

On my Wurkkos FC12, the tail switch cover has the tiniest bit of play before it contacts the actual switch.
This bothered me enough to want to fix it.
All it is, is that theres a bit of a gap between the rubber cover and the actual switch.
I decided to fill this gap with a small piece of silicone.
I diddnt take photos along the way so I made an illustartion with MS Paint.

It’s a mod! This has been done a lot to firm up the feel of a switch or make it more responsive without going to the trouble of replacing it with a different switch. An easy way to to use some hot glue on the plastic plunger of the switch itself, then you can trim it to suit with a razor blade. A suitably thick plastic disc can be punched out with a paper or leather hole punch and glued on or just tucked in there. Even easier sometimes is to use a different switch boot that has a nubbin attached to it…use it as-is or trim it down a little bit. Something like this type:

CRC
CRC's picture
Offline
Last seen: 18 hours 45 min ago
Joined: 06/11/2021 - 23:30
Posts: 349

Aha, so im not the first to be bothered by this lol.
I have some green silicon switch covers coming with my C8+ (Still in transit)
Maybe they have the ‘nubbin’ bit?
Doesnt really matter I guess since theres clearly a few ways to deal with this.
Hopefully my FC12 will have a green button soon though.
Really wish I got the purple FC12 now though!

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 35 min 34 sec ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 4756
Location: California

@CRC:

For fine tuning the gap between the top of a clicky switch and a button boot I recommend the following:

Layer up small pieces of tape on the tip of the switch.

  • I tend to use Gaffer’s Tape or 3M Safety Walk Tape. However, any tape will do…. even masking tape.
  • The tape doesn’t need to be strong. It won’t come out of position with use since all the action is straight down into the tape. There’s no lateral force.
  • Using tape gives you very precise control of the height of the switch without affecting the feel of the rubber switch. It’s also easily removable and adjustable.
JaredM
JaredM's picture
Online
Last seen: 11 min 46 sec ago
Joined: 10/31/2011 - 13:33
Posts: 2387
Location: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

For me, switch feel is soo important. I totally get it. Forward clickies go on basically every light that isn’t an e-switch and proud, hair-trigger setups are my favorite. These are usually always throwers with one mode or dual switch or no mode memory, turbo first. I approve Thumbs Up

CRC
CRC's picture
Offline
Last seen: 18 hours 45 min ago
Joined: 06/11/2021 - 23:30
Posts: 349

Firelight2 wrote:
@CRC:

For getting the gap between the top of a clicky switch and a button boot I recommend the following:

Layer up small pieces of tape on the tip of the switch.

  • I tend to use Gaffer’s Tape or 3M Safety Walk Tape. However, any tape will do…. even masking tape.
  • The tape doesn’t need to be strong. It won’t come out of position with use since all the action is straight down into the tape. There’s no lateral force.
  • Using tape gives you very precise control of the height of the switch without affecting the feel of the rubber switch. It’s also easily removable and adjustable.

Thanks for the tips

CRC
CRC's picture
Offline
Last seen: 18 hours 45 min ago
Joined: 06/11/2021 - 23:30
Posts: 349

I recieved my Convoy order today with the extra green silicon button covers.
Although they are larger than the button cover on my FC12, they still work.
They do have the little inner nubbin bit, and I needed to trim it a little to work, but other than that, it just bulges on the sides a bit.

Black one on the left is the original FC12 button cover.

Since I had to take it apart again to install the green button cover, I took some photos of what I described earlier with the MS Paint illustration.

CRC wrote:

I sliced apart an old silicon mould that was a bit of a dud.
(Its not a nice perfect circle because I diddnt have scissors and had to use a razor blade.)


ArtieT59
ArtieT59's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 21 min ago
Joined: 02/25/2020 - 17:55
Posts: 3158
Location: CT, USA

Did two fun mods today!

 

Convoy C8 with sbt90.2 

https://imgur.com/a/hYKzcAx

 

WildTrail WT1M with "W2.2" CULPM1

https://imgur.com/a/OAiMo1k

 

Enjoying them both, but need to dial in the C8 beam better. Probably remove the centering ring.

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

Pages