Great Photos!
congrats on your upgrades

Today I modded an SP10 Pro to 620nm Red:
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and an SC21 Pro to DeDomed 519a 5700K:
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Looks good jon_slider! I like the red on red.

I was planning on dedoming a 5700K 519A too to replace a 219C in a cheapo AA flashlight that I modded 5 years ago. Any insight on how the beam profile will differ between dome vs dedome? The OP reflector is 18×12mm:

the domed 519a has a nice large hotspot, similar to LH351d

(pic does not do justice, this is an xml reflector that has a large bottom hole, which does not produce a clean transition. Your reflector will probably produce a better beam profile)

dedoming will make the hotspot smaller, similar to 219c
(this reflector has a smaller bottom hole, and the pic is more representative)
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Thanks for the info!

Kinda figured the hotspot would be smaller and thus more throw, but was concerned about rings and artifacts. But it looks like I should be fine and the improved tint and more desirable CRI (to me) is worth the risk.

Maybe I’ll do a before and after beam profile and post it here.

NeutralFan wrote:

was concerned about rings and artifacts.

wont know til you try.. have fun

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SC21 Pro mod to sw45k w 30° Pebbled Tir

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I haven’t actually modded anything, but I have assembled 4 – LH351D 4000K LEDs on an mcpcb, a led4power LD-A4 driver, a Li-po 3700mAh cell, a switch, a 2 amp TP4056 charger and USB-C port plus a Convoy S2 pill and some copper pieces, into a test configuration for a light I am thinking about making.

Can’t wait to see what that is going into Don.

I made this the other day. 12V 2A wall wart power with dimmer and 4 12V LEDs to light up a MCM Spaghetti globe.
Final sanding and finish put on it today. Xmas gift… the lighted stand.

Still unfinished.

Cool! I haven’t seen a spaghetti globe in a while. It’ll be nice with the dimmer.

It might take a while to complete my project, there are other things higher up the priority list. Plus now I need to complete the ways of carrying out the idea I have and turn it into something other than some parts that I have shown actually do work.

Not a flashlight mod but a mod none the less.
I took an old feit 9w led bulb and replaced the original some 2835 leds with some 5000k and 4000k Bridgelux Thrive 2835s. I alternated between 5000k and 4000k trying to get 4500k.

I didn’t take any before measurements with the Opple since I just received it and I had already had taken the bulb apart and was too eager to start reflowing some leds.

Overall I’m pretty happy with the CCT and obviously the CRI is great. I was hoping the tint would’ve been closer to the BBL, but it only cost about $2.50 and less than an hour of my time. So, in the end it was definitely worth it.

Before shot

After shot

I spent many many hours filing, sanding, and polishing a cheapo AA flashlight in order to reuse a 5700K 519A LED that came with a Convoy S2+. I purchased the MAO S2+ with the intension of converting it into a triple dedomed 5000K 519A and it turned out great.

I made a makeshift lathe using a portable drill, a large drill bit, and plenty of tape. I think the host turned out pretty darn good. I added another hole for the lanyard so it will be able to tail stand.

The worse part of trying to use the cheapo AA flashlight as a host is the pressed in driver retaining ring. It’s not reusable and was very difficult to remove. So I took an S2+ retaining ring and added solder to the perimeter. Then screwed it back and forth onto the head along with some oil to cut new threads. Now I’ll be able to use it to secure the new copper (cap) pill and the driver that came with the S2+.

I just ordered the lens, reflector, silicone switch cover, etc. from Kaidomain so will have to patiently wait until the parts arrive.

New host bottom and right:

Damn, lotta work and looks good.

YinDing 5050 in a S11
Surprisingly intense beam for only 3A
I used a leftover 3A qlite driver.

Damn, that’s a nice tight beam for a tubelight.

T3 519A 5000K (dedome + 60 TIR) getting 3600-3750K  (had to file down the TIR to fit the T3)
It's little to long like 0.1mm or so, to screw it down all the way, but there's an o-ring, so there shouldn't be a problem with water

WB 5000K, 1/60s, ISO50, f1.8  

And teaser (I will try to finish it soon, for now it's a test fit, and it fit perfect)

innovative rotary design, you can change the brightness, and tint, by screwing in different bulb

kokosnh wrote:

jon_slider wrote:

very nice floody beam do you have Opple data for Tint DUV?

kokosnh wrote:

3622K Duv -0.0032

your pic looks so much more rose colored

kokosnh wrote:

jon_slider wrote:

kokosnh wrote:

3622K Duv -0.0032

thanks your pic looks so much more peach colored, than mine at DUV -0.0042:

kokosnh wrote:

did you lock the white balance?

I have an iPhone w auto white balance..

that is why I take the photo during daylight when the CCT is about 5300K and the Tint DUV is about 0.0032

I dont know if your photo would look like mine, if you took it at the same time of day.. that is why I think it is helpful to compare Opple numbers.. they bypass photo WB differences.

anyway.. just pointing out how much photos can vary.. I do think it is great that you can lock WB.. your pic looks great..

innovative rotary design, you can change the brightness, and tint, by screwing in different bulb 



I didn't bother to take out the MPCB, I just cover it...
Soldering, with my FWAA CU in hand. You can tell, it's my 5 time soldering anything. 

Isolation (it was sparking :D) didn't bother to heat shrink it.

parasitic drain is 256µA
moonlight mode is 30mA (and it's working)
next mode is full brightness all the time, on any ramp mode 850/1400mA (depending if with 3W, or 6W bulb)
Strobe, battery check and so on, works ok.

The only problem is with the 6W bulb, as when screwed it, it's always in moon mode, you can't turn the flashlight off (the 3W bulb works fine, you can turn it on, and off)

No bad PWM (on any mode)

A lot less innovative on my side :

Convoy M2

SFT40 emitter & OP reflector

and “tactical” forward switch (instead of the factory reverse clicky), you can see I got some trouble to get it working as I melted the first switch during soldering and had to “shave” the rubber boot because the forward switch is taller than the factory one

(but it works, and I am really happy)

I removed 1 of the 7135 driver chips in my S2+ Nichia UV flashlight to make it less bright.

Few weeks back I modified Maglite ML25LT with better led. I used Samsung LH351D, because it’s dome is somewhat diffused in hopes of cleaner beam with stock reflector. It was a real hurdle to disassemble this light. No parts that you usually find in led flashlights, but I managed to pull it through. Vastly improved light that is safe to give to kids.

Beamshot ~6m away

e1000 wrote:

And another one, same 519A, 3500K. AceBeam Raider RX

!{width:80%}https://i.imgur.com/RWtMUuK.jpg!

Any advice on how to get this disassembled? I can’t get access to the MCPCB. Everything past the driver is a no-go for me.

if you take the pill out, the front blue bezel is rightly-loosey

Put an sft40 in my sp35t, the emitter it should have shipped with.

Much better throw with still plenty of kick in terms of lumens – without the crazy overheating of the sfn43 led.

It was quite a struggle to get my FW1A bezel off.

ts10 4000k vs fw1a pro

Swap in a tir

tir used

Nice improvement Sk9! It didn’t look like that bezel was meant to come off.

Thanks! The tir might have damaged the led dome due to no centering device, so it will stay together until the next upgrade.

I put a 5000K 219C in a Yootoo SD2 and like it so much better than the SST20. The 219C came out of an S21A that now has a 4500K 519C and definitely enjoying this new to me Nichia.