What did you mod today?

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Texas_Ace
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What do the buttons do?

Enderman
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Texas_Ace wrote:
What do the buttons do?

One is prime, the other is detonate.
The wires connect to the plastic explosive Wink
vwpieces
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Well, I was happy with this light for about an hour…
Jaxman E2 Nichia 219B 4000K had the stock driver with 4*7135 L, M, H
Now has New FW Convoy driver with 8*7135 on mode #2; 0.1%, 1%, 10%, 35%, 100%

Lexel
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Modded two Klarus XT11GT now with XHP35 HI E4-3C neutral white emitter.

15.5% brighter than the D4 XHP35HI
No donut hole and dome artifacts like the XHP35 HD
much more pleasant color and tint


left XHP35 HI E4-3C 5470-5000K on right XHP35 HD E4 6500K


-X3-
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I put a 219B in my brand new Thrunite Ti5T

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

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M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

Mike C
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Texas_Ace wrote:
What do the buttons do?

The right button unclips the programmer from the MCU via small relays inside the box.
The left button is a forward clicky power switch.

It makes firmware development and testing much smoother. I’ve been using this system for a long time but wanted another setup so I don’t have to keep carrying it around between my two main locations.

CRX
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vwpieces
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Titanium X6 Triple
Nichia 219C 5000K D280 80+ CRI, XP32 soldered to pill. MtnE new ver Fet +1 Bistro. bypassed SW, Ledil sanded thin and polished to fit it under AR Glass.
Refinished exterior and some work went into tube to get it smooth and uniform.





CRX
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Nice Thumbs Up
(could do with some black on it though) LOL

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CRX wrote:
Nice Thumbs Up (could do with some black on it though) LOL

Thanks CRX,
That Mi7 looks awesome too. I really like the Trit SW and the highlights around it.

I have well over an hour in that tube getting it to present form. The tubes were knurled and I guess they weren’t up to par. Knurling was ground off, but still had signs of it left and not too smooth or round. Had to refinish the whole light to match. Also dropped a hot XP32 board on the floor and wasted all 3 emitters as it fell flat on the domes. I was ready to go back to bed and try getting up on the other side. Was a wake up call and another coffee later, things went better. Happy with the build.

CRX
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That’s why i always butter the underside of the MCPCB Big Smile

Texas_Ace
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This is the picture that goes with my earlier post : http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1074225#comment-1074225

Well after a year of collecting parts, building a few lights and generally having a great time on BLF I finally got down and dirty and knocked out some real lights.

Put together about 40 of them since the year started and I officially finished all of the lights I currently own as of yesterday. (well except for some C8’s, but I am waiting for a triple setup to prototype for kiriba-ru before I build those).

I had them all out charging the cells yesterday and gave them a head count, turns out I have officially joined the Century club with over 100 flashlights (some didn’t make it into the picture as I kept remembering more I had stashed around the house and cars).

So with them all out I decided to take a family picture or 5:

I think I have officially exhausted my options for budget lights at this point and my collection offers everything from 17,000 lumen flood monsters to 1000m throwers. I have a trade pending for a cometa which is one light I am missing, a mid sized zoomie.

See what ya’ll can point out, if you have any questions about the builds feel free to ask.

vwpieces
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CRX wrote:
That’s why i always butter the underside of the MCPCB Big Smile

One of “My” days that would have worked.

Still have 2 Ti-1 tube lights from Rey. May do the BC black or bluing on one of those to get it in the blocks.

CRX
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That’s some going Texas_Ace Thumbs Up

Texas_Ace
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CRX wrote:
That’s some going Texas_Ace Thumbs Up

LOL, I know it is bragging but what can I say, after a year of reseach, buying and preperation to see it all come together I am a bit excited.

The issue has proven to be to actually be able to use them all!

I am quite sure that I will be reducing the quantity before long, you just can’t use this many at once. Although it makes for one fun picture to have them all in one place at least once.

giorgoskok
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Impressive TA !

That’s a very interesting collection , especially the fact that most of the lights (should) have your drivers in there (and the fact you built them all of course) Wink

Texas_Ace
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giorgoskok wrote:
Impressive TA !

That’s a very interesting collection , especially the fact that most of the lights (should) have your drivers in there (and the fact you built them all of course) Wink

Yeah, they are all modded with the exceptions of the few cheap little 9xled lights and the nitenumen ne01. Most of which have TA drivers as well (which is why I built them in the first place lol).

CRX
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Added a momentary side switch and magnetic tail.
The light now works by pressing the side switch or tailcap for momentary on function or as a normal twisty for extended use in lower modes.

KawiBoy1428
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Just for grins I modded one of my Thrunite TN42’s with a XHP70 P2-1C FETDD Vishay sir800 18awg leads (+) off driver spring,Custom made driver adapter, SD75 mcpcb 12.27amps at the LED, GITD fins…..GITD switch locator in middle lanyard hole…. Steve

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

Enderman
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That’s pretty sick!
Any lux numbers?

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Started on a copper heat sink for an SRK. The cylinder was .5 mm copper sheet and the heat plate 1.8mm copper. I’m pleased with how it’s going, the 15mmL x 41mm D is both nicely round and flat even though hand wrought and brazed. With a MtnE FET+1 driver it will need it. The other item is a 1.4A driver modded for bistro. 1 chip is segregated and jumpered to pin 5 and each of the other 3 doubled up. Also a cap bridging pins 2&4 for OTC. Basically a bistro compatible single sided board that’s regulated. The host is a sweet little grey S2+ modded to a 16650 triple 219C but at xx500 length. Wood tube of course. I’ve shown it before but finally close to finishing it. I didn’t want to give up retaining ring convenience and none of the 3-4 chip drivers are set up for plus one firmware.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

Lexel
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Just for grins I modded one of my Thrunite TN42’s with a XHP70 P2-1C FETDD Vishay sir800 18awg leads (+) off driver spring,Custom made driver adapter, SD75 mcpcb 12.27amps at the LED, GITD fins…..GITD switch locator in middle lanyard hole…. Steve

where did you got your GITD stuff and how to get it on the flashlight that way

KawiBoy1428
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Enderman wrote:
That’s pretty sick!
Any lux numbers?

Dome on, reflector .020” off the board with plasti-shim, no centering ring 238kcd.

Will be making a correct centering ring out of Delrin and shaving it later, just ran out of time! Saved all the stock parts, didn’t want to alter the stock ring.

It was a bit of a PITA build! Big Smile

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

KawiBoy1428
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Lexel wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Just for grins I modded one of my Thrunite TN42’s with a XHP70 P2-1C FETDD Vishay sir800 18awg leads (+) off driver spring,Custom made driver adapter, SD75 mcpcb 12.27amps at the LED, GITD fins…..GITD switch locator in middle lanyard hole…. Steve

where did you got your GITD stuff and how to get it on the flashlight that way

Glow On Film.. I have the Glow paint and the Glow film. The film glows all night, just not as intense as it’s first charged, but in complete darkness, I can still see it in the morning, I think it said up to 12 hrs? I use a razor to cut strips and a Precision shim punch for dot’s and centering rings. It works great in triple/quad optic builds too. Just lay the strips or even the dots on the mcpcb, or the leads, as long as it dosen’t interfere with the legs locating, or the optic being held up off the board, it looks great thru the optic’s! The Glow film is pretty powerful, when I use it for centering rings it will cast a beam when fully charged!! http://www.glow-on.com/index.html and here is the film http://www.glow-on.com/purchase.html

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

KawiBoy1428
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Quads and triple Glow On film…

Switch markers tail cap ends

Centering rings, cast their own beam

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

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@KawiBoy: Cool build and pictures! Must be 4500lm?

@Rbd: was that a 101-AK you started with? That sounds like a really nice driver Smile

CRX
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DQG Spy XP-L HI V2 1A

.

EagleEye X2R 18350 Shorty with Nichia 219c 5000k and lighted tailcap

.
and

Thrunite T10T XHP50

Tom E
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Dunno if anyone has one of these, but the Lumintop SD26 is a real nice light. Easily fits 26700's, and worse size protected EVVA cell I have, just over 70.0 mm. Think'n it's a great candidate to run a SANYO 20700A or B  cell in.

I started on the mod - will be using a TA triple driver, actually the TA 30mm TA designed for the Convoy L6, but will use a Schottky diode instead of an LDO - easy to do. The 26 mm MaxToch XP size MCPCB fits perfectly, so plan on using a XPL2 V6 2B from KD in it. Running Narsil of course, supporting the green LED's behind the semi-transparent switch cover.

There's no reviews or info on the SD26 posted anywhere, but It's a real nice 1,060 lumens (what I measured, rated at 1,000 lumens) or so compact size 26650 light.

Bezel was glued but easily broke the bind with grippy gloves. Driver was also glued down, probably using thermal epoxy, but broke it loose using a solder pick thru the LED wire holes - no damage. 

KawiBoy1428
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Tom E wrote:

Dunno if anyone has one of these, but the Lumintop SD26 is a real nice light. Easily fits 26700’s, and worse size protected EVVA cell I have, just over 70.0 mm. Think’n it’s a great candidate to run a SANYO 20700A or B  cell in.


I started on the mod – will be using a TA triple driver, actually the TA 30mm TA designed for the Convoy L6, but will use a Schottky diode instead of an LDO – easy to do. The 26 mm MaxToch XP size MCPCB fits perfectly, so plan on using a XPL2 V6 2B from KD in it. Running Narsil of course, supporting the green LED’s behind the semi-transparent switch cover.


There’s no reviews or info on the SD26 posted anywhere, but It’s a real nice 1,060 lumens (what I measured, rated at 1,000 lumens) or so compact size 26650 light.


Bezel was glued but easily broke the bind with grippy gloves. Driver was also glued down, probably using thermal epoxy, but broke it loose using a solder pick thru the LED wire holes – no damage. 


Got any pics Tommy? I too was interested in the SD26, sounds good to me…. Thumbs Up I have been running the 20700A’s in both my modded UT 02’s and both my modded Malestrom MMUx3’s.

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

Tom E
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Yes, I do got pics - been taking them as I go, but have a ways to go. I'll post here soon, when I get further along. Should be able to fit the TA 30mm triple even with all the 7135's mounted, because there's a small driver mounted stiff spring. I'll loose the USB charging of course, but that's usual. The stock driver is a two tier design. What I like bout the light is it's compact size - the side switch hole actually overlaps with the reflector space, but there's no ill effects. The switch is mounted in the side of the light, SRK style, with 2 LED's. MCPCB is standard height, so no need to play around w/height. They use a small single screw in the MCPCB shelf simply to keep the MCPCB from spinning - it actually doesn't hold anything down -- interesting, but this is why many lights come with only one screw populated.

It's actually a simple e-switch mod - I've worked on many far more complicated.

Ohh - it also had, what I think, is a temp sensor mounted on the stock MCPCB, which is alum unfortunately. 2 small wires, 1 is ground, ran to a small SMD component on the MCPCB - they say it has temp monitoring so that's what it probably is.

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