BLF style 18650 1s thrower( poor mans Olight M2X)

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The_Driver
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DB Custom wrote:
See what I mean though? The blueish purple aura and odd spill color? I don’t like that, so I don’t use it. Not fond of the XHP-50.2 either, for similar reasons. Will eventually pull the three from my scratch built light and go with something else.

Yes, I agree with that.
Above I was just talking about center beam lux/candela, not all the other problems.

There might be a solution for this though. Somebody here on BLF did it with an XP-L2. After de-doming it he cut away all the excess phosphor. This way he got rid of the yellow-green corona.

The blue spot can probably be fixed by starting with a lower color temperature LED before de-doming.

DB Custom
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It’s not so bad, the first “trick” is to get the rectangular shape of the thermal pad cut into a copper box, then match it width and height with some sheet for the electrical contacts. I cut slightly shorter strips from a coke can as aluminum doesn’t solder. Placed like 3 strips between the sheet and pillar, held them with a small clamping tweezer (might have been a hemostat) and placed the assembly on the Noctigon with solder paste present, solder paste on top of the copper as well. Then I put the emitter on top, re-flowed all of it simultaneously.

KawiBoy1428
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The_Driver wrote:
DB Custom wrote:
See what I mean though? The blueish purple aura and odd spill color? I don’t like that, so I don’t use it. Not fond of the XHP-50.2 either, for similar reasons. Will eventually pull the three from my scratch built light and go with something else.

Yes, I agree with that.
Above I was just talking about center beam lux/candela, not all the other problems.

There might be a solution for this though. Somebody here on BLF did it with an XP-L2. After de-doming it he cut away all the excess phosphor. This way he got rid of the yellow-green corona.

The blue spot can probably be fixed by starting with a lower color temperature LED before de-doming.


I did it to the XP-G3 in a Courui D01 when they first came out, it helped, but it did not improve throw not one bit. This had .005’ silicone left over from shaving. I made up ground washers with different thickness’s .005’‘ increments, to shave as close as I could.

This is what happened when I went to the next .005” smaller washer! Big Smile There was still a bit of soft mushy phosphorus left, kind of thin though! Facepalm

So close and yet so far! What was amazing back then, when they first came out, was these G3’s were pulling 8+ amps, it got very exciting, but yet I was only able to achieve 270-280kcd IIRC in the Courui.

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

giorgoskok
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So many people ordered this light but noone sharing his project ? Smile

Geuzzz
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Still waiting for mine to arrive. Well over 5 weeks now…

warzi1975
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I’ve bought two lights from Amazon and I build both lights with BLF Fet driver. One light is with domed xp-g2 s3 1a and the second one is with dedomed xp-g2 s2 1d. The dedomed led is reflowed on Maxtoch 26mm with custom build centering ring and throws as well like my modded jax x1 with same Setup. For this small money, I think you can’t get better light.

Robert

Anthon
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I tried with the AR lens from kaidomain but I don’t see any improvement in my cd measurements, currently 240.000cd with xp2 s4 new batch

The_Driver
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How precise is your test setup? How does the lens look? Does it have the colored reflection at high angles? Are you accounting for all the variables (full batteries, exact same measurement distance, room temperature etc.)?

Anthon
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The_Driver wrote:
How precise is your test setup? How does the lens look? Does it have the colored reflection at high angles? Are you accounting for all the variables (full batteries, exact same measurement distance, room temperature etc.)?

The comparison was made in less than 5 minutes, first with stock lens X lux at 8meters, then put the AR glass and do the same test with the same numbers showing in the lux meter

luminarium iaculator
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Guys lets say this way…

I also claim that there is no significant difference; well at least with some cheaper AR lenses I tried on Jacob A60. They are more beautiful I can’t argue that…

So question is: Can pure air or no lenses at all on top of reflector be better than lets say the best AR coated lenses?

I am asking that cause with my reflector mods I can easily measure lux without any lenses in front of reflector. So theoretically… Do I have 100% of light transmittance without any lenses in front of reflector?

If this is correct I will say that only negligible difference is visible on lux meter(about 1% more lux for pure air without any lenses on the top of the reflector vs classic non ar coated lenses).

DB Custom
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I’ve been testing some that way as well, remove the lens completely and see what the baseline is then test different lenses to see what comes close to no lens at all. Ironically, the Klarus G35 AR coated glass lens is really good, very comparable to an UCLp. To be fair, the UCLp in acrylic isn’t as good as the glass UCL, so there is that small room for improvement. With the glass UCL with a claimed 99%+ transmittance, you’re just not going to get a better lens. Problem is, of course, the size limitations of that lens.

If you take the lens out and see green glass on the sides, there’s room for improvement. Whether it’s AR coated or not. If the glass is water white, you have in your hands a nice lens and it’s probably not worth spending money looking for improvement.

luminarium iaculator
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This are Soup lenses(uncleaned and dusty and fingerprinted as they come from manufacturer):

I am not sure… If this is bad green?

DB Custom
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There are better lenses that will allow more light transmission, yes.
I use the light box, primarily, to see lumens difference between lenses. Lux can show big differences for a throwe, not much so for flooders.

fenno
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  • AR lens
  • xp-g2 s4 (new)

distance from 6m I get 295.000 Lux.

greez

djozz
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fenno wrote:
* AR lens
  • xp-g2 s4 (new)

distance from 6m I get 295.000 Lux.

greez


Very good number on new type XP-G2 Shocked
Was the focussing hard to do?
gastonpatagonico
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Hi, I’m still waiting for my supwilfire, but I have a uniquefire 1504 with new XP-G2 s4 2b with blf a6 and fresh liitokala produces 446000 cd at 7 m.
luminarium iaculator
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Guys there are also lux meter variables we have to involve… 300 kcd sounds very optimistic for new G2 S4 2B. I bet that same light would show around 220 kcd on my lux meter. And maybe someone uses android application as lux meter.

I really wish if there would be group buy for some cheap and good luxmeters that are calibrated on the same way at same manufacturer so we would all have same calibrated light meters. That would not mean that they are proper readers like more expensive ones of course but we would all have same results for comparison.

Edit: Most of us have that uni-t clamp meters for current readings and it is very good reader indeed… I trust that company so I ordered my backup light meter from them and it seems cheap and good? Here

ImA4Wheelr
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Make sure to monitor your orders.  I just noticed mine is classified as Completed and funds are transferring to the vendor.  I ordered when this thread first came out.  Tracking only shows that the package has departed China.

djozz
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That is a very cheap luxmeter, l.i.! I ordered one and will check against my fancy one.
But even with th same type luxmeter I would not really trust the calibration (over time) if it is this cheap. But it is already better than the random mix of cheapies that people are using now

tim70
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strip, polished add Maxtoch xm 26mm dd xml2 u4 1a solder MCPCB to the pill still no AR len yet still waiting.

warzi1975
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How do you stripped the anodiziation off ? With acid?

Robert

giorgoskok
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What pill you used ?

gastonpatagonico
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This is my luxometro, I do not think that variable is as large as 220000cd to 300000 cd, it is obvious that there are differences, but I do not think they are 25% to 30%, I am new to this, I am learning, a big greeting for everyone !!

warzi1975
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I`ve used the same pill, but it is a bit to small for this light, so I`ve done a few solder blobs around the threads and now it`s a tight fit and new threads are cutted it selfs. I think in his case, the reflector gives enough pressure down to the pill, so it isn`t hanging loose around.

Robert

tim70
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I use drano professional strength crystals stripped the anodiziation off.
I got the pill from fasttech it doesn’t fit I have to glued.

DEL
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Old USA copper 1c, sanded flat:

Epoxied into the pill, and together sanded down flush, wire holes drilled from back at 45 degrees outwards:

Side view together with MCPCB, pill ledge ended up about 2/3 sanded away:

Used these centering washers, but sanded very thin. Fit is not tight in the reflector and centering is touchy:

U6-3A XPL-HI. DD+1 driver, ~1200 lumen. Measures only 144 kcd, but nice profile:

Pill originally had a rubber o-ring, preventing it from screwing down all the way. Now with the pill properly screwed down the cell tube will need to be shortened, it can only screw in up to its o-ring.

DB Custom
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Someone should try the funnel shaped XP centering ring that Simon had made for his C8’s. They work really well. So well that Eagle Eye is now including a clone as an optional centering ring in their host X6’s. Wink

Mitko
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Eagle Eye are using their own XP centerig ring: i was speaking about it initialy
Its thin, easy to sand and works quite well with that reflector
Their XML centering rings works great too, its just it needs aditional glueing to the mcpcb in order to be fixed( for XP)

The seller shipping time is worst possible though….got several of those hosts on a wait status already 2+ months

luminarium iaculator
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djozz wrote:
That is a very cheap luxmeter, l.i.! I ordered one and will check against my fancy one. But even with th same type luxmeter I would not really trust the calibration (over time) if it is this cheap. But it is already better than the random mix of cheapies that people are using now

It sensor is more directly connected to motherboard (no long stretchy cables).
Could long and stretchy cables have any influence on lux meter performance? If they could have this is some kind of direct connection…
I think it could be winner same as his clamp meter brother most of us use now for current draw measurement.
Looking forward for your comparison with super duper light meter Wink

Guys very nice mods indeed…

Here is mine… Prepared for 26mm mcpcb(I did not want to polish cause I think this will be better for artic alumina thermal gluing I am planing:

KawiBoy1428
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DEL wrote:
Old USA copper 1c, sanded flat:

Epoxied into the pill, and together sanded down flush, wire holes drilled from back at 45 degrees outwards:

Side view together with MCPCB, pill ledge ended up about 2/3 sanded away:

Used these centering washers, but sanded very thin. Fit is not tight in the reflector and centering is touchy:

U6-3A XPL-HI. DD+1 driver, ~1200 lumen. Measures only 144 kcd, but nice profile:

Pill originally had a rubber o-ring, preventing it from screwing down all the way. Now with the pill properly screwed down the cell tube will need to be shortened, it can only screw in up to its o-ring.


Sweet and clean! Nice work DEL! Thumbs Up

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

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