Current handling should be at the absolute minimum on par with the XM-L2.
It’ll obviously be able to reach much higher power levels since it’s a flip chip design rather than having to deal with bond wires, so that’s nice at least.
If I were to extrapolate based on the 70CRI version, I’d say 1000-1100 lumens at 10W 85C, and slightly higher at the rated 25C.
For the 90CRI version, I’d say around 700-800 lumens at the same power, although we’ll have to wait until we get to manufacturing and testing to see what the manufacturer gets on their end, and then see what we get on our end.
How it’s better:
1. It’s domeless. If the tint binning we asked for is achieved 100%, it should have better tint behavior in most optics than the 519A.
2. It’s 5050.
3. Because of the larger surface area, it should be handle to handle more power.
4. It should be a bit more efficient than the 519A(barely though).
How it’s worse:
1. Not guaranteed R9 >= 80 like the 519A(only R9>=70).
2. It’s not 3535 obviously.
3. When dedomed, the Nichia LED will be more throwy/lumen.
The 5050 footprint part is the most important by far: it allows us to replace so many lights that use XM-L2s/SST-40s with a better tinted less tint shifty high CRILED.
How it’s better:
1. It’s domeless. If the tint binning we asked for is achieved 100%, it should have better tint behavior in most optics than the 519A.
2. It’s 5050.
3. Because of the larger surface area, it should be handle to handle more power.
4. It should be a bit more efficient than the 519A(barely though).
How it’s worse:
1. Not guaranteed R9 >= 80 like the 519A(only R9>=70).
2. It’s not 3535 obviously.
3. When dedomed, the Nichia LED will be more throwy/lumen.
The 5050 footprint part is the most important by far: it allows us to replace so many lights that use XM-L2s/SST-40s with a better tinted less tint shifty high CRILED.
That’s about it.
Silly me, I looked at the diagram a little too quickly noticing 2.9mm x 2.9mm not paying attention if that was the LED base or the die itself. Yup, 5050 def the biggest differentiator here. Looks like a nice find for SST/SFT40 lights that push alot of current that 3535 LED’s can’t handle.
If you can get a Wechat contact, I can communicate with them and see if maybe they would be willing to send me a sample. Shipping should take only one day since I’m in the same city. I’m not sure if they have some available already though.
I can test lumens and candela (I’ll probably put it in a C8 size body), but can’t test CRI or tint.
Given that there is a small gap between the dies, I can not think of a reason why there will not be a visible donut hole in the hotspot when used well focused in a smooth reflector, like we do in flashlights. It may be limited but it will be there, and an OP reflector may be needed to smooth it out.
The manufacturer may not realise that that is how a led is often used in a flashlight, as opposed to general lighting/car uses.
Current handling should be at the absolute minimum on par with the XM-L2.
It’ll obviously be able to reach much higher power levels since it’s a flip chip design rather than having to deal with bond wires, so that’s nice at least.
If I were to extrapolate based on the 70CRI version, I’d say 1000-1100 lumens at 10W 85C, and slightly higher at the rated 25C.
For the 90CRI version, I’d say around 700-800 lumens at the same power, although we’ll have to wait until we get to manufacturing and testing to see what the manufacturer gets on their end, and then see what we get on our end.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
I prefer 4000k but anything is better than the current 6500K for sft40 and sst40.
Yeah, and while I was tempted to get 5000-5500k, I think that was a bit much.
4000-4500k on the other hand is
Actually tolerable general use CCT.
5000k is perfect for the day, but too cool for the night.
3500k is good for general evening use, but too warm for the day.
4500k is my own sweetspot.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
I’m in for 10.
Reviews: Brinyte E18 Pheme, XTAR SC1 Plus, Acebeam Rider RX, Sofirn LT1s, VezerLezer ED10, XTAR VC2L
Added.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
In for 20.
I will take 10 pcs, thank you.
Added, and updated.
So, is there anyone who thinks that I should add the ability for public people to add comments? That would certainly be nice to point out mistakes.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
20 for me, please.
Will you send the leds as a letter to Europe? All international shipments are getting taxed now but letters may be an exception.
My Youtube channel: Alllightson Reviews
My OL contest builds: 7th 8th 9th
My reviews: Sofirn SP31 V2, Nightwatch NI40, Sofirn C8F 21700, Brinyte WT01, Sofirn SD05,Ti AAA keychain, Sofirn SP33 V3, Skilhunt M150
My video-reviews: Brinyte WT01, Sofirn SD05, Ti AAA keychain, Sofirn SP33 V3
@Skylight, yes as besides, we’re not dealing with massive sums of money, and it’s the only relatively affordable and easy way I can ship to Europe.
Added to the list.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
A letter is perfectly fine, thank you.
My Youtube channel: Alllightson Reviews
My OL contest builds: 7th 8th 9th
My reviews: Sofirn SP31 V2, Nightwatch NI40, Sofirn C8F 21700, Brinyte WT01, Sofirn SD05,Ti AAA keychain, Sofirn SP33 V3, Skilhunt M150
My video-reviews: Brinyte WT01, Sofirn SD05, Ti AAA keychain, Sofirn SP33 V3
In for 10 pcs
Added.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
In for 20
Added.
Only about 1000-1500 LEDs are left before we can begin the order process
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
I will take 10.
Added.
Good news:
“I have an interesting question: can you manufacture very low color temperature LEDs after this batch?
By low, I mean <2500k(1800-2200k).”
“Sure, no problem making them.”
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
I am in with 10 pcs.
Thanks BlueSwordM for your great work about that to bring to us that new Hi-Cri LED.
No problem icpart.
I knew the community was searched for such an LED for years, so I decided to pull up my overalls and get working!!!
Added to the interest sheet.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
Bluesword, thanks for organizing this group buy.
I am interested. How would this LED be different, better/worse than the Nichia 519a?
How it’s better:
1. It’s domeless. If the tint binning we asked for is achieved 100%, it should have better tint behavior in most optics than the 519A.
2. It’s 5050.
3. Because of the larger surface area, it should be handle to handle more power.
4. It should be a bit more efficient than the 519A(barely though).
How it’s worse:
1. Not guaranteed R9 >= 80 like the 519A(only R9>=70).
2. It’s not 3535 obviously.
3. When dedomed, the Nichia LED will be more throwy/lumen.
The 5050 footprint part is the most important by far: it allows us to replace so many lights that use XM-L2s/SST-40s with a better tinted less tint shifty high CRI LED.
That’s about it.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
Silly me, I looked at the diagram a little too quickly noticing 2.9mm x 2.9mm not paying attention if that was the LED base or the die itself. Yup, 5050 def the biggest differentiator here. Looks like a nice find for SST/SFT40 lights that push alot of current that 3535 LED’s can’t handle.
These look great! I’m in for 20. Thanks!
Sign me up for 10x please. Merci
If you can get a Wechat contact, I can communicate with them and see if maybe they would be willing to send me a sample. Shipping should take only one day since I’m in the same city. I’m not sure if they have some available already though.
I can test lumens and candela (I’ll probably put it in a C8 size body), but can’t test CRI or tint.
@fogofwar, problem is that samples don’t exist for our specific CRI and other color don’t exist, but yes, you could check out the beam profile.
Pavlo and Rayoui have been added.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
I’m interested in 5
Nice!
Do i have to sign up here or can i fill in the Google document later?
Definitely interested in a few
In for 10.
Given that there is a small gap between the dies, I can not think of a reason why there will not be a visible donut hole in the hotspot when used well focused in a smooth reflector, like we do in flashlights. It may be limited but it will be there, and an OP reflector may be needed to smooth it out.
The manufacturer may not realise that that is how a led is often used in a flashlight, as opposed to general lighting/car uses.
link to djozz tests
10 for me
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