I tried doing a combination of shave and hot gas dedome on an SST-40 this evening. I was stupidly in a bit of a rush and ripped off one of the wires (the one by itself). Just for S&G I hit it with the continuity test and the die lit up. Which leaves me with two questions…
will this LED function properly?
I figure two wires are for + and -, but what is the third wire for? It seems like a lot of LEDs have three, I just never thought too much about it
Haha, thanks KB. I sliced as close as I dared (with a blade for a safety razor), then dunked in boiling gas for 15 minutes to loosen the remaining dome from there phosphor, followed by another trim with the razor to clean things up.
I can’t wait to get this into my L2 host with Mtn FET+1 driver. Should be pretty sweet.
Question for the OP. Are you using the FET + 7135 Driver - 17mm - MTN-17DDm Product Code: MTN17DDm-NUV? This is my favorit driver, but being direct drive for high mode that would make it capable of delivering 10amps. This led is only good to 9.5amps.
Great question, but I dunno really. I have a meter now, but it’s still sitting in the packaging. And I sold that L2 at Christmas, so I can’t measure it now. But I have the parts on my shelf to assemble two more just like it. Hopefully I’ll be able to build & measure them soon.
Problem is that rubbing the sliced dome against sandpaper rustles the underlying bond wires. I can see the effect with my bare eyes. Did it to a 5000K XHP50A, the bond wires got all messed up and it just died. On another 4000K XHP50A did it more gently, but still something went wrong and upon heating up half the dies started turning off, an indication of certain damage to some bond wires.
It is just not worth it, just shim the emitter properly and cut the dome at two (180°) or three (120°C) different angles, just that. Do not worry if it doesn't looks perfectly flat, the emitter will work well. Polish it, and you take an unnecessary risk. Of course, you can also try to polish it very slowly and gently. Good luck in any case. :-)