Brinyte B158 mod thread

So I’ve been meaning to start this for a few days now. There’s another Brinyte B158 group buy thread, where you can get this budget friendly beast for under $23 from Gear Best, before the $2 upgraded shipping charge. So check it out for more details.

Out of the box and with XML2 5-mode version you get about 58kcd, which ain’t bad for a zooming light. But what’s great about this light is it’s mod potential. It has an easily swappable solid brass pill, so you can carry a few different types of LED/driver combos with you. Anyway I had a spare red pill that I gutted and I put in a BLF A6 FET driver and a factory dedomed XPL HI. which gave me in the neighborhood of 170kcd. But you can easily get over 300kcd if you throw in a dedomed XP-G2, like Kloepper Knife Works did. Here is my mod video, and how I did it.

Anyway this is a mod thread, so post questions comments, and details on your mod.

Here’s a compilation of the pertinent modifying information for the Brinyte B158 that I posted in the group buy thread. I’ll try to include any new information I find or measurements I take at the top of this post, with the newest on top.

Currently waiting on lights…..

These quotes are in chronological order from the group buy thread.



I wonder what a triple emitter would do in this light? You could be like Predator and have 3 dots on target.

I just tried Ultrafire C10 and C8 pills and they are a larger diameter, by a mm or so and thus won’t fit.

In other news, I just realised I have no 2.8A drivers for my XP-G2 mod for the B158. :frowning:

Yes, I had stated somewhere in the group buy thread that C8 pills don’t work, and the diameter and pitch of the Brinyte pill. Getting that and the modding stuff copied over to the “Placeholder” post I have above is on my to-do list.

Is there a reason you want to run 2.8A? If no particular reason, throw in a FET driver with your XP-G2.

good video, thanks for sharing

Sorry, I’m not at all familiar with FET drivers.

I’ve updated post #2 to include the modification information I posted in the group buy thread. I’ll keep links or quotes to pertinent information I post there.

Thanks KKW,

Now we can start talk :)

So you mentioned that is very hard to remove the driver out? Did you try to use heat gun?

Heat gun should de solder inner side where driver is soldered to, and than it could pop out much easier without damaging pill? Of course some kind of bench vise, hammer and nails :) needs to be used.

I think we got to return on pressure switch talk cause this is big enigma(at least for me).

I saw you wrote that you only have 5-10% loss with 1504 FET and only mod you did is spring bypass?

In my experience light loss is more than 30%... More like 40% with spring bypass done and even more if it is not done.

Hope you'll manage to crack pressure switch somehow so it can be run with FET drivers without light loss.

This was the first attempt at disassembling the pill, so I was trying to feel it out. In the future, knowing what I know now I’d just hit the whole pill with my butane torch until everything dropped out.

Got distracted by a sick kid and my quadcopter build. I’ll try and get some numbers for the 1504 pressure switch this weekend.

1504/1503 switch should fit nice to B158 so if guys can't get B158 one they can put UF switch inside right?

Looking forward for pressure switch modifications :)

I’m confused here - mhanlen’s video shows a one piece driver but Kloepper Knife Works says he found a contact board and driver floating around in the pill.

Different driver types altogether for the XM-L and XP-E?

I am not at all keen on the floating driver!

I’ve had other lights which used a 20mm contact board and 17mm driver flopping around inside the pill and had issues….flickering and cutout - possibly the driver was shorting inside the pill?

I was about to order a number of B158’s….now I’m not so sure…. :expressionless:

Pressure switch - I have a couple of Brinyte S28 tailcaps with pressure switches lying around (I don’t use them for my hunting, just one more thing to get hooked up at night….) and the S28 tailcap screwed straight on to the B158 and worked fine.

One of the boards shown in KKW's picture shows a NANJG 105C which can not have been a stock board, his text is a bit confusing but I assume his copy had a single board too.

Just looking at my three pills, the XM-L and red and green XP-E’s, the boards appear different.

The XM-L has the same blue coloured board as in KKW’s pics, and the other two have a green coloured board with the familiar grounding stars for mode selection around the outside. My XM-L is three mode, the other two are single mode. I’m assuming what I’m seeing is the outside of a single driver board on the XP-E units, not just a contact board. Maybe I’ll disassemble one of the green ones I have, I don’t really use them. In any case, I have some spare drivers.

The mount - I’ve used my B158 in the field a few times, mounted on both my .17HMR and .223 bolt action. The light worked quite well and I’ve taken over 30 foxes using it, with both the white and red LED’s.

The included mount will work on one of those scope mounted ring-rails, on a 40mm AO scope and it just clears. On my .17HMR the light can sit directly over the low profile vertical scope turret.

On the .223 which has tall, target style turrets I just offset the mount to about 1 o’clock so the torch sits between the vertical and horizontal turrets.

I haven’t tried this light on a harder kicking rifle than the .223 (next to no recoil) but I have thumped the light pretty hard with my hand from the front, back and side while it’s on to see if it flickers. It doesn’t. :slight_smile:

Nice info. How you consider focusing action when rifle mounted? Hard or easy? Do you have to watch to not unscrew tailcap when doing focusing?

TBH, I tend not to play with the focus when I’m hunting. On average I’m calling foxes in to around 50 - 75m so I set the focus a bit less than fully focused as I want a bit more spread - in particular with the tight spot of the red XP-E.

I did test out focusing the light with the rifle shouldered and a fox coming in the other night and it worked OK.

Yes, loosening the tailcap when adjusting focus can happen if you aren’t careful! I tend to tighten it up as hard as I can by hand and be careful to grab ahead of it if I can - the light is never used on full flood so there’s some battery tube left to grab.

For those interested, here’s a fox lit up at about 50m. Screengrabs from footage of my ATN gun camera, which has 5X optical zoom.

Another a bit closer.

Red XP-E pill at about 20m, defocused a bit.

I’ll be doing an XP-G2 pill, not that I often need really long throw but it will be interesting and handy to have. :slight_smile:

Oh yes it was the stock board. The picture is of what came in the pill. I think one of two things is going on.

1. The white LED drivers use the contact plate, while the green and red versions don’t.

2. The lights sold by fasttech are different than the ones being sold through gearbest, possibly an earlier revision.


That may be crucial in choosing UF1503(T50) over B158.

This mentioned above is maybe their design flaw. They could put some kind ring(anti roll) similar as this to eliminate possible tailcap unscrewing during focusing issue: