Note for other NOOBs like me: I was initially confused because some people talk about the S2+ taking a 16mm MCPCB, but others talk about using a 20mm MCPCB in their S2+ builds. Turns out both are correct – the pill from Convoy has an opening for the MCPCB that is 16.3mm but when using a different pill like Hoop's, or using the stock pill + spacer, you have a 20mm surface.
I now need to figure out -
Direct vs. linear
Driver configuration (for some drivers)
I have been doing my homework - some of the posts I've read include:
I am leaning towards Kaidomain’s “Triple Nichia 219C Neutral White 4000K CRI92 LED Emitter with 20mm x 1mm DTP Copper MCPCB (Parallel) w/ optics” because that ticks off the emitters, MCPCB, and Optics for a very nice price. But ignoring the price, I am also looking for arguments for other options instead of the KD Triple Nichia package.
One major question I have is which driver to use? Are there ones that are better for a Nichia triple? Why better? Because they drive more current? Because they shutdown and prevent accidents? Because the software they support? Because you like the color of the board?
This is a learning exercise for me. Any suggestions or comments are welcome. Thanks!
I will build my first triple soon (hopefully)
Bought a copper spacer, a blue host, bistro driver and the triple 5000k 219c 83cri on noctigon from intl (which is still on its way), since the 4000k single 219c 92CRI (from KD) in an S2+ is a littlebit to yellow for me (which is really superb outdoors in the dark)
But during daytime, indoors it annoys me
I found the KD triple quite warm tinted for 4000K.
Good idea, because it will reduce losses from the transition from TIR to air to glass, replacing the air with glue.
I recently tested this with Kafuter (from Fasttech) between 2 pieces of window glass.
Mention that the KD 5700K variant is a 219B, while the 219C has a lower Vf, which gives you more lumens at a low current, thus less heat.
Also mention that the Carclo optics wont fit directly in the KD DTP’s (which are only 1mm, and somewhere on BLF i read that sometimes the MCPCB’s aren’t 100% flat)
The heat warning depends on the current you want to drive the LED’s with
I bought the Bistro driver with 8x7135 which should give approx 2800mA, with the LEDS in parallel that is 930mA per LED. Since the 219C’s have a low Vf they are driven quite efficient and the heat should (I.M.O.) be on an acceptable level.
Thank you for the info. I hadn’t considered the Vf difference between the two leds, and the resulting impact on heat. I have more reading to do. But at some point I have to stop reading and start doing. Fortunately with this hobby mistakes aren’t too expensive.
So i soldered the spacer to the pill and drilled a hole trough the center:
Put an equal thin layer of thermal grease on the pill, dropped in the noctigon and put the wires through the hole.
Shortened the already assembled 22AWG silicone wires from the MCPCB and soldered them to the new convoy driver, (which was quite a handfull since you dont have much space to work in, it is easier to work on top instead of the bottom) but i finally managed to get a beautiful perfect solder joint. (No picture, sorry)
Soldered the driver to the bottom of the pill and screwed the assembly in the head:
Very happy with it, it is quite heavy now.
the beam is very nice, as well as the tint and i love the new firmware!
The only thing which could be better is when it had the preferred 4500K Nichia 219C high CRI, which is hard to get.
Lower Vf LEDs just shift the extra voltage to the 7135’s to be burned off, it’s not saved somehow. This is what made it hard to run the LD-1/2 with triples. It does mean that you get a bit more run time in regulation though. A buck driver would actually make use of the extra voltage and convert it to usable current lessening the draw on the battery.