Making a light for the XHP 70 and the 95mm faceted reflector LUM 5-90. 103500 lux @ 1 meter. Beam Shots are up.

One way to make a light for the LUM 5-90 reflector and the XHP 70 led.

The video is just an overview. I will have photos and descriptions later in the week.

I'm going to be jumping around a bit, since I have done some of the processes here already, so I will go with the aluminum plate that will hold the SRK head and go into the bottom of the big 4" tube.

This is a slice of 3-3/4" rod stock. 6061 aluminum. It is 5/16" thick. I will be drilling holes from the outside to the center, to lock in the SRK head and those will be #8-32 and I chose 5/16" so I would still have some metal left around the holes. I will be opening up the center to hold the SRK. I have marked where the SRK head will fit in, (outer pencil circle) and I will be drilling a bunch of holes in it, to "cut out the center". The drill is a HSS 3/8" and I will drill overlapping holes around the circle. The inner pencil line is the center point of the drill, so when I drill the hole, it should come very close to the outer circle. When I get some holes drilled, I will show you. The drill press is set for it's lowest speed, 620rpm.

Off to work soon, more when I get more.


03/24/15 After Work

So I got in a couple hours out in the garage after work. Let me caution you that you really need some safety equipment. Safety glasses or goggles are a must have and I find a good pair of leather gloves helps to protect the hands. You might want to fashion a shield of lexan too. Broken bits can happen and it can be nasty.

I said I would use the drill bit to remove the center of the rod stock and here I am drilling overlapping holes all the way round. This is 6061 Aluminum and I like to use it because it is so easy to work with. It cuts like butter. No cutting fluid needed for this stuff, provided the drill is sharp.

Once the center is gone, I start using an end mill bit. I have raised the drill press speed to it's max, which is 3100rpm. It's not very easy doing this, but the vise helps only because it's a lot of weight and a more stable base. What I do is to hold the vise with two hands and guide it, so that I am pushing the material against the bit. If you try to pull the material past the bit, it jumps around like crazy, but pushing works much more smoothly, plus you can see what it's cutting better.

Once I get close to the marked ring, I will test to see just how close I am. Slow and easy does it. Rush it and you will ruin the bit and probably the part too.

First test fit. Almost there, so I will switch bits now.

I have switched to a Dremel #115 bit now. It does not take material off very easily and that's what I want. Smooth the hole and hit the high spots.

It does not take much to get the fit. This is just a little loose, but it does not drop over easily, so as it gets hot, it will tighten the joint up.

Here's a photo that shows you what all this is going to achieve.

Nuff said.

More when I get more, time for a little sleep.


03-26-15 The light is operational.

I used masking tape, to measure around the outside of the aluminum base that the light fits into. Then I divided it into fourths and marked the aluminum to drill the four holes for set screws. The set screws are #4-40 and are 3/4" long. I put the aluminum ring in the drill press and drilled four spots with the correct drill for #4-40. Then I used another drill for #8-32 and drilled out the same holes just about halfway in from the outside. That allows me to use #4-40 set screws and use #8-32 outer screws to hold the top end onto this aluminum ring. I also drilled thru the SRK head, so the set screws go right up against the heat sink and hole it tight. The heat sink I used ended up being a thinner one. It was 3/8" thick. I have it drilled for wires and for two screws. Those screw holes are also #4-40.

Here you can see one of the four holes. The reason I did it this way was to hide the set screws, which are in below where the outer #8 screws will be. I used #4 and #8, so that I had clearance in the #8 hole, to get the tap for the #4 hole down in far enough to thread it all the way. Taps are larger diameter a shaft above the threaded section, so I needed the larger hole on the outer side.

Here's the head in place and held with four #8-32 Stainless screws.

All set to go. The XHP70 is on a 20mm star and I had to use a round file in the reflector, where the screws for the star are, to clear them. Just a simple round file to make the half rounds to clear the screws.

It really makes a compact light, as far as length. It weighs 1.93# without batteries. That's pretty light considering the only other lights that hold the 95mm reflector are mush heavier.

It has a beautiful spot and it reads 103500 lux @ one meter. It's a thrower for sure. I will be doing beam shots later in the week, over at the plant where I work.

I did not talk much about the driver, because there are several you can use and it's an individual choice, so you can get what you want for it. As far as the contact plate, I just marked the original driver while it was in the light and while the body was tight in place. I went through the tail end and used a black marker to draw the outline of the inside of the body, for the four batteries. I also marked the driver and the head, so I would put it back together in the same place. I used those marks for my reference for cutting the traces and making the 2S/2P.

The video explains that and the spring plate pretty well.



One piece of Aluminum tube - 6061 - 4" OD, 3.750" ID and 2-7/8" long -

One piece of Aluminum rod stock - 6061 - 5/16" thick, but it would be better to go with 1/2" thick -

One piece of 2" rod stock - 6061 - 3/8" thick -

One 95mm UV filter from ebay

One XHP70 - this one is from Mouser and is 6200k.

One 20mm Copper mcpcb from RMM

A driver of your choice. I would not limit it to the one I used, but you can get drivers from RMM

18ga wire and 24ga wire, (24ga if you need to rewire the momentary switch

3/8 nickel silver discs for the contacts. These were 3/8 diameter and 20ga thick

I think that is about all. Of course, I would not try this without a drill press. There needs to be some precision when drilling all the holes for proper alignment.

This light illuminates the far end of the plant better than any single led light I have tried out. The beam, for me, is perfect.

Like the way this is headed already. :)

Good ol “soup pot” method. :bigsmile: (You know how some guys use a soup pot for the big HID sized reflectors, haha)

Looking very nice O-L!

More photos in the OP.

What can I say? I'll put my order in now before everyone else does. Orsm effort so far.

The light is finished, Photos in the OP. I do not think I am going to blacken the Aluminum. I think I will just use Mothers on it and leave it as is. I will do beam shots tonight or tomorrow night, inside the plant and maybe on top, going for the bank again.

I like it!

Take my money please! :bigsmile: :bigsmile:

Now that is cool!! As always, very creative and brilliant work.


If anyone really does want one, either in brushed aluminum, or in black, send me a PM. I still have 4 reflectors and I know how to do them now.

Might wait for beam shots tonight though.

Wow, this is amazing.

I have the DX SST-90 Reflector(73mm) in 2 Maglite builds and I get 103k~105K lux with MTG2 at 6A (8.4V input).

So, you mastered more output with that XHP70 yet still crank out over 100K lux…. :open_mouth:


What an effort. l've just watched your video and loved every second of it. Even the back ground music had garage all over it. Was It MC Hammer? The mods to the driver board for the battery configuration was really good info. It gives me an idea for another light mod I've been stuck on.

Anyone thinking of getting a custom OL light the offers been made and what a light it would be. Now if I could only win the lottery as the good wife refuses to get a forth job.

Thanks Justin. Simply amazing.

Very nice, as usual, OL. Question - have you tried a dedomed xhp-70 in any of you builds?

Great build, can’t wait for the beam shots.

great build as ever!

There was a few posts on this somewhere. I don't think it was successful.

James3 did succeed with a XHP dedome :slight_smile: with the XHP50 at least, first a quick slice to take of most of the dome then a quick dunk in gas.

check out his thread about it

Beam shots are in the OP now.

No, I have not. I go as far as slicing the domes on any leds, but I do not de-dome with gasoline. I have been 100% unsuccessful in that and have never liked the results.

Old Lumens, do you have 1-2 of those reflectors you’d like to get rid of? I’d like to do a couple of maglite builds but not sure I need 5. If not I’ll just order the 5 and figure out something to do with them. :wink: