MLED.com SingFire SF-132 & 707C

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
1

Here are a few pics of a very rough (my only way ) and ready mod on a pair of SF lamps that arrived yesterday.

these two

https://www.myled.com/p3313-led-zoomable-flashlight-cree-xm-l-t6-800lm-5-mode-with-charger-1x18650-black-sliver.html


https://www.myled.com/p3317-led-zoomable-flashlight-cree-xm-l-t6-800lm-5-mode-with-charger-1x18650-black-sliver.html

Photos hosted on my own server space. I'll try and leave them there as long as possible (the downside of not being able to upload to the BLF servers)

I did not screw up the lathe work too badly, and they work better after. The wide flood is now double what it was.

I must get my self a set of reading glasses, 46 years old and presbyopia setting in :( I can only see the true 'quality' of my lathe work now in the pictures..how the hell I cut the "O" ring groove without being able to see clearly and did not slice through the tube...just lucky I guess.

You will see in the before and after shots of the barrels the section with no anodising where I took material off the body. This allows the zoom body to slide back further. On the small one with the white emitter surround, I also removed metal from the front of the 'drop in' allowing the lens to nearly touch the LED..(note to self...read up on de doming). Had to cut a second "O" ring groove too as the internal "O" ring contact point in the zoom head was small and 'fell off' the back as I zoomed to wide.


These are both advertised as 800 Lumen, though on the myled website the bigger 132 is given as 200 meter range while the smaller one is given as 80.

Switch on both is Forward clicky with a glow in the dark green cap, that only glows once you have shined a bright light on it.

Very basic beam shots at full zoom of the 132, taken at about 0300, out of bedroom window across fields to derelict glasshouses.
I really like the sharp cut off of the square image of the LED at full zoom, virtually no spill just a nice spot.
Will try some wide flood shots later.
White balance set to manual of 4800K

I changed exposure, accidentally between shots , so used the "Match Total Exposure" function of Adobe lightroom to bring them back to comparable shots. The palm type trees are about 20 meter away, the glasshouse is near on 60 meter

Here is the spec

Brand SingFire
Model SF-132
Color Black+Silver
Material Aluminum alloy
Emitter CREE XM-L T6
Color BIN Cool White
Total Emitters 1
Working Voltage 3.7V
Battery Configuration 1*18650/3*AAA battery
Circuitry 2500mAh
Brightness 800LM
Runtime 3-4h
Modes 5(Hi>Mid>Low>Fast strobe>SOS)
Beam Range 200-300m
Dimension (cm) 15.5*3.4*3.4
Net Weight (kg) 0.177
Lens

Plastic 30mm diameter
Reflector No
Mode Memory No

Brand SingFire
Model SF-707C
Color Black+Silver
Material Aluminum alloy
Emitter CREE XM-L T6
Color BIN Cool White
Total Emitters 1
Working Voltage 3.7V
Battery Configuration 1*18650 battery
Circuitry 2500mA
Brightness 800LM
Runtime 3-4h
Modes

5(high>Mid>Low>Fast strobe>sos)
Beam range 200-300m
Dimension (cm) 11.5*3.1*3.1
Net Weight (kg) 0.075
Lens

Plastic 20 mm diameter with flange to 25mm
Reflector No
Mode Memory No

The angle of this shot makes them look the same size, but no, The rear one has a body about 30mm, and the front one is 24mm.

I'd be interested to know how these screw-in units are opened? I am guessing the PCB is just glued in ? Might be destructive to remove them. But it needs to be done.
I want moonlight mode first ON and memory at OFF feature. No need for strobe and SOS. I see Mountain Electronics have custom Drivers for that I'd like 2% 5% and then maybe 50 and 100%.
I'd like to drive these at bit more on 100%. Even on full s they are now, they barely get warm. I am sure they can take more, What can I run these at before burning them out instantly ? Not looking for 100% continuous, 20-30 seconds will be all I'd want

Might be able to machine a mm off the front of the black one to get that slightly greater flood.

What is the chance these unscrew? Tried a gentle turn but nothing . I won't force them just yet.

2

Good start, have you seen the Jax Z1 , might be right up your street I think.

Search on here also as some other members have modded theirs. Banggood offer the Jax Z1 as a host too, i.e. no LED and no driver, ready for the buyer to DIY build.

3

That Jax Z1 looks nice but too chunky for my needs.

I want a lamp to be used as an aircraft cockpit flight torch. I want to be able to clip to the headset to use as a head lamp for flight. so 18650 is about the biggest diameter I can go with…

I took the plunge with the LED units on these two SF lamps

They did just pop out.

Smaller 707C looks like 17mm diameter board
Larger 132 has a 20mm diameter board
Both have same chips:
MEM2309 1247
CX2829

Both have exactly the same functions H/M/L/Strobe/SOS
Both seem to be the same brightness by eye.
the 16mm with white output leads has three spare resistor pads…could these be populated to increase current?

Any other mods to these boards? like disable SOS and strobe? Reverse the HML order to LMH or at least enable memory of last mode on power off?
At the moment after power off, the next power on comes back at the next level.

or if I buy new driver boards, what current can I drive these Emitters at?

SF 707C 17mm driver

SF 132 20mm driver

4

To disable “next mode memory” you can either solder a 330K ohm resistor across the cap on the MCU or scrub a pencil trace from metal to metal [it has a finess to it to learn just how much to apply] (allowing the cap to discharge faster resulting in a reset back to default (HI) faster) which means you can turn off the light, wait a few seconds, turn it back on and it will revert back to the first mode rather than continuing on the cycle

Great modding by the way! Keep up the good work

5

Nice work there, increasing the flood angle. I might have to try that with my work lights.

With the drivers, I think you will only get what you are looking for by getting a Nanjg 105c type driver, & programming it with what you want (or order one pre-programmed from somewhere like Mountain Electronics).

6

For NeilP — second the suggestion of a driver from MtnElectronics,
the ‘moon mode special’ sounds like what you want.
or a custom program

Or you might like the smaller zooms — SK58 / Rustu / #3 zoomie — search will find those here
Those are all lights that use AA/14500
Those can take the “BLF SK68” 15mm driver boards that can be similarly programmed

Don’t miss the “DealMetic” “ZeusRay” 18650 zoom — $ 7.99 — much discussed here this past year and much appreciated.
https://www.dealmetic.com/product.asp?ID=FL05518

Your ability to slap a light on the lathe and take some metal off to make the lens go closer is — enviable.
arrrrrgh. I’ve been doing that with a handheld file and old shaky hands, the extra flood is very nice.

7

Ordering new drivers, Richard at Mountain electronics is sorting my order now hopefully :slight_smile:

8

I am pretty sure you can get rid of SOS mode by removing the resistor labeled 0. I have done that with a CX2817 driver as detailed here.

Then the light should operate as High/Low/Strobe.

9

Thanks
Worth a try of both mods
Thanks

10

Been reading up on these

That bank of resistors are in parallel, all 1.5 ohm giving 0.1875 ohm hardly seems worth it.
Also see Out 1+ which apparently is higher output

Yet the other board has a single 470 ohm resistor in the same place.

Same mosfet and same mysterious datasheet less CX2829

Both lamps appear to have the same LED’s and both quote same 800 lumen.
Both also appear to have same brightness

Am going to have to measure LED currents

Edit, I SEE …. The 470 ohm is on the input side of the FET. Looks like the first board has no output resistor string it is just direct. Effectively the same as using Output1+ on the other board.

11

Beam angles on Flood
SF-132
Before mod 58 degrees
After mod 80

Zoomed 9 degrees both before and after

SF-707C
Before mod 32 degrees
After mod 75

Zoomed 13 degrees both before and after

12

OK, well took the pill apart on both.

The white and black plastic caps are just press fit. destructive gouging is the only method of removal…I suppose I could have tried drilling small holes …would have been neater

I fitted a new driver from James, an 8 x 7135 Najang 105c

Poor design on the 707c, then smaller one. the LED star does not sit on a heat sink, well it rests on the edge by about 1mm. but nothing in the centre.

SF707C - I may have to turn a new one of these with a solid back. Not sure the LED will survive with no heat sink and 3 amps

I bought some Sticky thermal driver cubes from James. could they be stuck on the back of the LED star around the edge to try and get some heat away from the centre?
I am of course assuming that these rubber looking cubes are thermally conductive?

Had to shave the inside away to allow the driver to fit without hitting on the 7135 tops.

SF-132