4 more 365nm UV-leds tested

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djozz
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4 more 365nm UV-leds tested

Last december I updated my test method for 365nm leds and tested 4 leds (link). With the same method I tested and extra four 365nm leds and put all 8 in one chart. I think that this chart is getting way too busy, so for any more tests in the future I will only plot a selection of old tests for comparison.

 

I measure the leds in my usual way, I test one bare led, if possible on a DTP-board, cooled very well, starting at low current and at each increasing current setting letting the led settle for a moment before recording the numbers. What is typical for 365nm leds is that upon each current increase the initial new output shows some gradual (slow) dropping, I think it is a temperature effect in the die. Blue leds (and thus white leds) hardly show this but I know that red leds are also very sensitive to temperature.

 

UV led datasheet output claims are all over the place compared to what I measure. I will not claim that I am more right than any datasheet, for that my method is too indirect I think, but  at least it makes it impossible to calibrate my test numbers to one correct 'milliwatt' number. So to create a calibration 'in progress' I defined what I measured compared to the datasheet specs of the Luminus SST-10 as my 'djozz-mW'. And I must admit that after testing 4 more 365nm leds now, the djozz-mW could be somewhat low compared to reality. Nevertheless I will stick to it.

 

My UV output tests say nothing at all about the lifetime of these leds, the tests suggest that you can easily overdrive some of them for a few times of what is in the datasheet, but I do not test what happens over time.

 

The 4 leds (no links to datasheets this time, but these will pop up instantly if you google for the partnrs)

 

Third generation LG 3535-size 365nm led 120deg, partnr. LEUVA33T00RL00 (obtained from the Convoy aliexpress store)

   

 

Seoul Viosys Z5 series 3535-size 365nm led, partnr. CUN66A1B (obtained from kaidomain.com)

 

 

Ledengin LZ1 365nm, partnr. LZ1-00UV00 (from Mouser, lended out for testing by BLF-member scientist)

 

 

Vishay VLMU1610-365-135 tiny midpower 365nm led (from RS-online)

 

 

The Ledengin LZ1 has been around for a few years but I never tested it before, and also the LG led and the SeoulViosys led have been on the market for a while, but were not easy to source until now.

The Vishay led I think is fairly new, it is another category: way less output and way smaller die, it may be interesting for someone somewhere somehow that the output/die surface area of this led is very high. At least I found it interesting enough to buy some and test it Smile For idea of size, here it is on a 16mm board:

 

Here are the test results. As said, I put too much data in this graph, i.e. the Vf data of the Nichia 233B is completely covered by the other lines. I will do better in the future.

 

 

My discussion will be short as I need sleep now:

*the Vishay led works fine up to 400mA and even steady, I kept it for 10 minutes there to test, I say 200mW at 300mA is the sweetspot. I made a small BLF348 flashlight with this led direct drive on a 10440 cell (some pictures later), but although the output was very significant, the beam of this minuscule die in an OP-reflector was rubbish. It needs a smooth reflector and then very well focussed.

*The LG led and the SeoulViosys led perform very similar, both in voltage and output, and the output is again similar to the SST-10 tested earlier, but with lower Vf, so in direct drive on a single li-ion you will get more output (±30% more)

*The Ledengin led disappoints, it is a big clumsy led if you ask me. But it may be tougher than any of the others over time, who knows?

As for the amount of visible stray light, the Ledengin has the most, followed by the SeoulViosys, then the LG led, then the SST10. And nothing beats the Nichia's in absence of visible stray light.

 

Thanks for reading, I hope this is probably not very useful but at least interesting to read Smile

Edited by: djozz on 03/01/2018 - 16:46
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Here’s a little quiz, all these 365nm UV-leds were soldered in one series and get 200mW current, UV-light was filtered out so only stray light can be seen. I underexposed to show the differences in visible light output well:

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Great, thanks Thumbs Up
I was just looking at the Viosys the other day.

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djozz wrote:
Here’s a little quiz, all these 365nm UV-leds were soldered in one series and get 200mW current, UV-light was filtered out so only stray light can be seen. I underexposed to show the differences in visible light output well: !{width:100%}https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4746/38752148790_23157d9cf7_b.jpg!

Good tests, I like this last pictures, it is interesting how they have different visible tints, I would not of expected a yellow visible tint from a UV die.

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My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5  - Nichia 219C 90+ CRILatticebright "XM-L"XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5  - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D

Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests

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Great data djozz. I believe your method gives excellent relative comparisons and that is probably most beneficial for most people here. It sounds like none of the leds you tested here failed as a result of your testing, is that correct? Too bad about the LZ1 but I’m still going to put it in something.

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Here’s some pics of the BLF-348 with the Vishay led. Later I added a 10mm ZWB2 filter. I think that this led will be swapped again at some point.

The tiny pill with heavily trimmed and drilled ledboard, had to remove multiple shorts from led-pads to core by scraping the side of the dielectric layer.

The result. Later a ZWB2 filter was added.

A peek inside. You can already see why a OP reflector does not work: the OP texture is larger than the die!

The beam. The led was not perfectly centered but that would have hardly mattered here.

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Thanks for the great comparison, I have a SST-10 laying around just haven’t found the time to use it.

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Really great info.  Thank djozz. 

 

If I follow correctly, that triple Seoul Viosys Z5 with board package at KD is quite a deal.  With discount code, it should come in under $14USD delivered.  Now if someone would provide a C8 size UV filter (would like to swap the UV emitters into a C8F and use the base for a tube light).

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ImA4Wheelr wrote:

Really great info.  Thank djozz. 


 


If I follow correctly, that triple Seoul Viosys Z5 with board package at KD is quite a deal.  With discount code, it should come in under $14USD delivered.  Now if someone would provide a C8 size UV filter (would like to swap the UV emitters into a C8F and use the base for a tube light).


Except that the optic does not have optimal UV-transmittance. I have no numbers but it is at least a lot worse than glass. If you loose 40% (I make this number up) because of crappy transmittance of the optic you loose the advantage of good leds.

If I would have a C8-size UV filter, I would make Sofirn C8F with these leds.

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^

Hence the swap I mentioned.  Good idea to mention that though.  I was just thinking the 3 emitters alone for under $14 is a good deal.  Plus you get a nice triple MCPCB and optic for other projects.

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I can feel a triple UV emitter build coming on Big Smile

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I’m trying my luck at alibaba atm for 20 pieces of 40mmx2mm ZWB2 filters. Will get a quote on monday, could be affordable or not, no idea..

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Amazing work and invaluable info. You have done it again djozz. Thanks. Beer

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

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MRsDNF wrote:
Amazing work and invaluable info. You have done it again djozz. Thanks. Beer

Thanks Steve, I’m not sure about the ‘invaluable’ though, UV led use is a pretty obscure corner of an already obscure hobby. Without these tests, I’m sure the world would keep spinning as usual.
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djozz wrote:
I’m trying my luck at alibaba atm for 20 pieces of 40mmx2mm ZWB2 filters. Will get a quote on monday, could be affordable or not, no idea..

Already got the quote in for 20 pieces of 2mmx40mm ZWB2 filter (fitting the C8), And I’m a bit double about it. They cost $9.50 each, with 50 dollar shipping. So that is an investment of $240 dollar which is not nice (I hoped for under 100).

On the other hand, if I could buy them for 12 dollar plus shipping (which is just $1.80 from my place to worldwide), I would buy 2 of them without hesitation.

So if I know beforehand that I would sell 17 of the 20 pieces, I would do it, but I doubt that there’s interest for 17 ?

Edit: I started an interest list:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/59351

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I will take two djozz.

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djozz wrote:
*The LG led and the SeoulViosys led perform very similar, both in voltage and output, and the output is again similar to the SST-10 tested earlier, but with lower Vf, so in direct drive on a single li-ion you will get more output (±30% more).

Just to be sure about my reading skills. At this moment a black C8 with an LD1-driver with no modes (eh, 1 mode) is useless lying in a corner. Do you mean that without risk I can put in an LG UV-led from Simon?

I always think long and hard before I say something really stupid.

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Henk4U2 wrote:
djozz wrote:
*The LG led and the SeoulViosys led perform very similar, both in voltage and output, and the output is again similar to the SST-10 tested earlier, but with lower Vf, so in direct drive on a single li-ion you will get more output (±30% more).

Just to be sure about my reading skills. At this moment a black C8 with an LD1-driver with no modes (eh, 1 mode) is useless lying in a corner. Do you mean that without risk I can put in an LG UV-led from Simon?


Yes, you read it correct, provided that it is mounted on a DTP-board it will run in any direct drive situation with a single li-ion, so the LD1 should be fine. With the disclaimer of course that I do no testing on the lifetime of leds when driving them out of specifications.
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djozz wrote:
Henk4U2 wrote:
djozz wrote:
*The LG led and the SeoulViosys led perform very similar, both in voltage and output, and the output is again similar to the SST-10 tested earlier, but with lower Vf, so in direct drive on a single li-ion you will get more output (±30% more).

Just to be sure about my reading skills. At this moment a black C8 with an LD1-driver with no modes (eh, 1 mode) is useless lying in a corner. Do you mean that without risk I can put in an LG UV-led from Simon?


Yes, you read it correct, provided that it is mounted on a DTP-board it will run in any direct drive situation with a single li-ion, so the LD1 should be fine. With the disclaimer of course that I do no testing on the lifetime of leds when driving them out of specifications.

Thanks Beer

Edit (almost one week later): Well, that UV-led is on it’s way. Can’t wait to team it up with one of your ZWB2 filters.

I always think long and hard before I say something really stupid.

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I hope for an obscure but interesting new type of light: the UV-thrower.

Btw, the ordered filters should be underway by DHL at this moment, tracking says underway from Le Havre to Netherlands.

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Could anyone give me some driver ideas for a 3x SeoulViosys build?

I have simply no experience with UV lights, djozz’s filter was kind of an entrée. Now I sit on 3 LEDs from Kaidomain and a very nice Sofirn C8F host and try to figure which driver to build.

- mA
The spec for the SeoulViosys says 500mA but djozz’s test show they can cope with much more. But I’m not eager to use a FET/DD driver with this LEDs. Thinking more of a 7135 linear driver in the 2100-3500mA range at the moment. Too conservative or overkill already?

- modes
Are any modes useful or just single-mode? Or just no moon-mode? What about ramping, would you even properly see when you’re at low or high?

As I’m always ready to design a new oshpark driver from scratch for a certain light, I could very well make a, say, 17mm/9×7135/Attiny85 driver to get 3150mA and the latest fancy firmware. Any ideas?

Thanks
HQ

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I tend to want a simple user interface for a UV light, I have one with low-med-high (no memory) and I like it.

I plan to make the same light as you (C8F+SeoulViosys leds) and I think I will use a LD2 driver (I still have one in my spare driver box, but l4p does not have it for sale anymore) so that 2A per led which sounds quite optimal to me.

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Here is my build with the C8F and three SST-10s UV triple using Sofirn C8F . I decided on using these after djozz tested them but before he tested the SeoulViosys leds. Oh well, live and learn. I just used the stock C8F driver from Sofirn. It has multiple modes that really aren’t needed but since I am a newby it was an easy choice that I knew would work. Lexel has pointed out in this thread the limitation of a single 18650 which will keep the leds from being overdriven. I really like it. I am interested to try the ZWB2 filter from djozz versus the ZWB3 that I made and put in mine initally. I don’t think there will be much difference.

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Thanks for the input, guys, really appreciated. Hadn’t seen your thread, Scientist, I like the glass cutting part. Glasses

So less modes then.
I think I still have a 5A LD-1 lying somewhere, although I never rigged one for momentary use. I’m much more confident when the driver limits the current, so I don’t have to worry which cell I use. A 25R can deliver lots of juice…

I ordered the C8F host (and 2 spare MCPCBs), so I don’t have their driver. But this host really has grown on me:
3p-setup, DTP copper MCPCB and really flat surface in the head, reflector and MCPCB are tightened with a screw from the inside, lots of room for the driver, an easy to press sideswitch with a crisp click, driver retention ring, enough space for a protected cell, squared threads on both sides of the tube, anodized threads at the tail for lockout, flawless anodizing. And the spare MCPCBs came with a foil on the copper side for protection.
Sofirn did a lot of things very, very well on this one. Thumbs Up

Let’s get cooking Party

.

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Looks great. I will be looking forward to seeing your results. Yeah, djozz took care of us with his group buy for filters. I couldn’t find anything when I looked around so resorted to rolling my own.

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Reflowing went well and I did find my spare LD-1.

.

All three lighting up evenly (this is with a cell at 3.25V resting).

.

Installing into the C8F host was easy. With the LD-1 I went for 3 mode and de-soldered moon.

I’m just not sure the beam is looking as it is supposed to look.
The center is yellow, then some dark area, followed by a blue corona.
Did I already wreck the LEDs or is that ok that way?
(Still without djozz’s filter)

.

Edit: The center seems to be the ‘good’ part with the most UV radiation. It’s really fun to play with. Now I’m curious which effect the filter will have.

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I think the 365nm light exits the dome of the led quite differently as the visible light (the refraction is fairly dependent on wavelength and 365nm is quite far from the average visible light) , resulting in a different focal point, this becomes more apparent with smooth reflectors.

Just this afternoon I made a C8 with the same led (but just one) and using a standard center piece the hotspot was pretty ugly. It improved when I sanded the centerpiece thinner, just like when using domeless leds compared to leds with dome.

This is pretty interesting, I will look into it a bit more precise this evening.

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That’s what mine looked like too. I agree with djozz that the visible light makes that yellow center. The ZWB filter cleans it up nicely. I notice the “petals” around the edge of the spill due to the three reflectors more than with a single emitter. It is fun, isn’t it!

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I just did a quick check and after all the visible light does not seem to focus extremely different from the UV after all.

Btw, indeed a 365nm thrower is more fun than I thought, you achieve so much more brightness, while not having to get close to anything, that makes checking a room for fluorescence much quicker.

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Here’s the beam of the 365nm C8 with Seoul Viosys led and ZWB2 filter, from 2.5 meter. The unevenness of the hotspot is the plaster on the wall showing uneven fluorescence. And a nightstand (not mine Innocent ) with playmobil dragon to get an idea of what you get.

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