Those two are nearly the same height (.481" for the stock reflector+insulator, .489" for the 10* TIR), and also the TIR's plastic frame is just the right size to fit down inside the o-ring just like the stock reflector does.
Here's the stock driver dimensions, hopefully there'll soon be a version of the BLF-20DD with provisions to mount a switch in the same location as the stock driver board, and the two locating tabs so it will all fit in the stock hole using the stock brass retainer.
Beam is OK. It's not as tight as it could be, I have a S3 using the same TIR but with an added .030" insulator (the common butterfly style) & the square hole in the TIR's holder bored out to locate on the insulator's 7mm ring, and that one has a spot about half the size compared to the TIR without the extra spacer. But there's just not enough room for that in the F6.
DISREGARD! Yes, there can be enough room - the bezel is super thick, I can shave about .035" off the rear face that sits against the lens and end up with the same spacing as with everything stock. Essentially just moving the lens forward, and shortening the stainless bezel by the same amount.
I shortened the front lip of the white plastic holder a bit (not too much, there needs to be an air gap between the TIR & lens, otherwise it screws up the beam) and the rear of the bezel only needs to be shaved down by .018-.020". The only remaining snag is that the o-ring no longer sticks up higher than the TIR holder, so doesn't seal against the lens. I need to add a small spacer under the o-ring to move it forward a bit so it touches again.
Adding the butterfly spacer (.035" thick) did tighten up the center spot, it looks identical to the one in the S3 now.
Well a 20DD wouldn't fit, since the switch holder board would be 20mm also and sits on a lip inside the head. You'd have to use a 17DD, that itself is no big deal, but it would be a very tight squeeze. 17DD height is right at 5mm, and only 5.5mm space available. Probably not even enough room for the LED wires.
Someone showed a set of vertical pushbutton switches on another thread…modifying the 20DD would probably be doable, adding those 2mm tabbies are doable
Just need the drawing .lbr of the switch and see how that goes
Button is at 6 oclock 180 degrees out from 12oclock 0-degrees
I think it would be doable
Is the nub 2mm diameter/thick
These TIR’s snap smooth onto the XM-L package w/o spacer 15 degree TIR 30 degree TIR for a little wider flood
on the 2-602C XP-E builds I did I used the adapter, had to remove a little of the lip around the top to get them to fit…but they dropped right in, I like the beam profile on the 15mm, makes a semi decent thrower but still floody enough to be useful, I think the 30 degree would open the beam profile nicely
Oh its much too easy using those Alps SKSC switches. I rammed one of these on my board. Its huge by comparison but by adding the layout for that switch people aren’t forced to make a mouser or digikey order just for a switch.