COURUI DO1 'Big Head' (Black/GRAY NOW AVAILABLE) $29.99 @ Gearbest ( use coupon: gbcourui) A long-throw modder's light!

i did test it ,without reflector just the led and pcb

Led on DTP copper board?

Do you have another Led to test?

the led works fine ,i tested by making the driver “direct drive”.

i started replacing parts from the other side of the driver since this new version has double the staff and when i replace those 3 leg in red ,driver works now,i also removed that blue big thing shall i add it back ? whats is its purpose ?

Those small fets in the red square seem to be the weakest link in this driver. A lot of people have found that out by accidentally shorting out the reflector. I'm not sure what happened in your case, but it's good that the driver now comes with spares :)

I think the toroid (choke?) is used to smooth out the power.

i c , thanks , i just finished the flashlifht now with dedomed xp-g2 S4 and its really monster .
what is the model of those fets ?any place i can order a few ,prefer ebay.


Ebay source:

Dug up from earlier in the thread. I think GarryBunk ordered some, you may want to ask him if they worked out OK.

Personally, I'd stick a blf Fet driver in there :)

thanks ,in the end i think the blfFet from mtn will be added to this light :slight_smile:

I did order some, however I never used them as I swapped drivers and didn't need them.


New contributions into the op’s consolodated mods by fellow members on this Courui light:

Courui D01 mod – my way (picture heavy) by Cula

[MOD] Courui D01 build for MauiSon by FmC [MOD] Courui D01 build for MauiSon

Noob here. I am planning to buy this courui d01 light for modding. Would it be possible to use blf fet driver with this light because it uses electronic switch? Or would it be smarter just to add r100 resistor on original board. With spring bypasses ofc. And if its possible to use blf fet driver, how to connect it with the switch? How much amps would the original led survive? Sorry for the question flood…

If you scroll down to the bottom of the first post of this thread, there's a ton of links to people's build threads.

Regardless if you mod the stock driver, or put in a Fet driver, you'll need to put in a Direct Thermal Path board for the LED.

If you go the Fet driver, the switch is wired to GND & pin4/OTC pad, depending on the revision of the driver board & firmware used.

Thanks for the reply. I have been reading all of the courui threads for few evenings… but some things were not clear to me.

Hi everyone
Do you know where to buy (and what is the correct size) o-ring to replace the one under the glass.
I’d like to have glow in the dark model.
If I’m not mistaken its diameter is around 72mm

Courui Red PT54 Mod-LD-M2

strango hard to find that size in gitd BUT : FS: Custom GITD O-rings & Kryton Groove Strips! | Laser Pointer Forums - Discuss Laser Pointers | High Power Lasers

This new Courui mod thread added to the OP’s consolidated mod threads:

So I got an LX1330B luxmeter, but haven’t checked my Courui or any other lights yet (been working on my I.S.). Did get this check out in the sun though (both meters on x100 setting):

Seems to explain my low readings.


I know my LS1330B meter has been working very reliably. Seems like every time I suspect something is wrong, it’s something else, or my own dang fault. Watch out for readings goin up when the battery starts dying. Other PIA is leaving it on and draining the battery - do this wayyy too often. I recall manxbuggy1 had this meter and a higher end one he spent like $150 for, and said the readings were the same, but the pricier unit of course had a bunch more features he wanted.

Thanks for the feedback Tom. Continuing off-topic duscussion, would you think the HS1010 & HS1010A perform ok for sphere use where even though it’s readings may be wrong, the calculations are based on calibrating to a known light (or a few known lights)?


Well, all depends how it’s off: offset or scaling. If it’s an offset problem, then yes, good for a sphere. If it’s a scaling problem, that gets tricky, because the higher the source, the more it’s off. It could be a combo of both calibrations, or could be an inconsistency issue, varying excessively by temperature or battery level for example.

I wouldn’t risk it, but of course money is money…

For my LX1330B, I don’t apply any cal factor - for throw, I use the reading directly. I’m making a big assumption it’s calibrated close enough.

I’m also interested in this OT discussion RE: whether the HS1010 has an offset or poor scaling. I picked up an HS1010A a while ago and never played with it much.