How "Shorty" STL-V6?

Hi,

I’ve seen this:

and I have a FandyFire STL-V6, which I ended up configuring for direct-drive, and replacing the emitter with an XP-G2 LED, so it only uses 1x18650 now:

So, if possible, I’d like to make my FandyFire STL-V6 into a “shorty”.

I’ve seen references to using a C8 body, and I have a bunch of different C8s, but none of their bodies work with my FandyFire STL-V6 “head”. The opening at the back of the STL-V6 head is larger diameter than any of the front of the bodies of any of the C8s I have, and I have quite a few of them, all different, including a Convoy C8.

So, can anyone tell me which C8 body would work with the head from my FandyFire STL-V6? Or, if there even is one that would work?

Thanks,
Jim

Afaik you have to rasp down the top of the C8 tube a bit. After that, you should be able to screw the C8 body in to the STL-V6 head

but…….you dont have an actual stl-v6, therefore what does work with an stl-v6 wont necessarily work with the light you have, or am I missing something here?

If I remember right, the fitting c8 was way different than the c8s I have known as a c8…so I am not surprised that it won’t fit.

But you can do old lumens human lathe method which he uses to short maglites.

[Gords, I tried posting this earlier this morning, before BLF went down, but couldn’t, so went to be (it was ~04:30). So, somewhat belated response…]

I don’t understand what you mean by “you don’t have an actual stl-v6”?

Internally, it wasn’t the same as “other” STL-V6s, apparently, but from the other thread (and the silk screening/labelling, etc.) it appears to have an STL-V6 head, body, etc. I guess that it’s possible that the body might be “different” from the older/other STL-V6s, but that’s kind of why I posted this new thread, to try to get information about that, to try to find out if that’s the case.

That link I posted pointed to a post that had a picture of what appeared to be an STL-V6 head section with a C8 body and tailcap, but as mentioned, I’ve taken about 8 different C8s that I have and the opening at the end of my STL-V6 is larger than the front of all of the C8 bodies that I have, so I’m trying to figure out how in the post (and others) were able to use a “C8 body” with an “STL-V6 head”.

It may be that the head section from the FandyFire STL-V6 that I have is “different” from other STL-V6s, but that’s part of what I’m trying to find out with this thread.

Werner,

I thought that I had seen that it was only one (or a few) specific C8s. That was the main reason for my post, as I haven’t been able to find where I might’ve seen that, or the original info. If someone knows what, or which, C8s those were, please post?

Thanks,
Jim

There are ‘C8’ lights that take 3xAAA holders, maybe it’s one of those. They are floating around on eBay. The tube is slightly fatter, which may be what you need.
If not, a 3xAAA C8 might make a decent gift light. :slight_smile:

At least with the STL-V6 I have, and the C8s that I have, the inner diameter of the hole in the head is much larger than the outer diameter of the threaded part of the C8 tube.

In the STL-V6 I have, the end of the tube section that screws into the head is larger than the rest of the tube, and that section is knurled.

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you only get a pwm mode though, cant see the point myself, but there you go, stl-v6, c8 q5 ultrafire body, c8 body screwed into the mode group selector ring on the stl-v6

Hi,

Ahh! That might be the problem, or more precisely, my problem!

Which STL-V6 do you have (it might be in the other thread, but it’d be easier if you just said here)? Also, is that “mode group selector ring” that you mentioned separate from both your STL-V6 head and your STL-V6 body, or is part of your STL-V6 head?

On the “FandyFire STL-V6” that I have (from Wallbuys), that “ring” is, I think (I haven’t been able to screw off of “my” STL-V6 body), part of “my” STL-V6 body tube.

Also, if that ring is part of your STL-V6 head, can you post a profile pic of the head by itself, from the side?

Thanks,
Jim

Edit: Gordy, on the STL-V6 you have, is there actually a ring, that you can move/turn, that you use to do the mode group selection?

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That ring, spring and shoulder on the real stl-v6 body tube are what selects the mode groups by contacting the appropriate ground ring on the driver. With a single cell it wont select modes so you’d have to do a driver swap, it also feels very head heavy because the two cells balance the light properly, personally I’d prefer to walk about with it in two cell mode, if I need a stubby thrower to drop in a jacket pocket I’d take my zy-t08 or asgard, but then I do like traditional looking lights as much as I like single cell lights, I find them pleasing to the eye and pleasant to carry about, if their balanced right.

Gords,

AHHHHHH! With those pics, I finally “see the light” (sorry for the pun :)…)!! The “FandyFire STL-V6” that I have doesn’t have a “separate” ring, like the one you have.

Darn, ok, I’m slow, but I’m now starting to see how different the “FandyFire STL-V6” that I got from Wallbuys” is different from “a” “STL-V6” :(…

Thanks a LOT!

So, the bottom line is that with the “FandyFire STL-V6” that I got from Wallbuys, the head will not work with a C8 body, I think….

bottom line, the fandyfire stl-v6 (like mine) is the same in all but name to the skyray stl-v2.

Yours is not what I would call a “true” stl-v6, the same way if I started calling you steve instead of Jim, that wouldn’t actually make your name steve.

You are correct, if yours does not have the separate knurled ring a c8 tube will not screw into your head.

As I said above, you dont actually have an stl-v6, just a light with stl-v6 written on it.

This is starting to get off-topic for this thread, but…

Re. your last sentence, “Tell me about it!” :slight_smile: [That may be an American sort of expression…]

FYI, I’m now curious about a “real” STL-V6, so I’ve posted a ticket at FastTech, asking some questions about the one that they have…

it certainly looks like mine, and to be fair, fasttech is not wallbuys.

sorry to have sounded arsy, that light you recieved is not what you ordered and paid for is all, which is what I’ve been trying to tell you all along, the proper stl-v6 is, barring the forward clicky a very nice light, if I was you though, I’d now spring a few extra dollars and get a convoy l2 u2

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10002364/1213106-convoy-l2-cree-xm-l-u2-1b-2-group-35-mode-led-flas

trust me its an even better light than the stl-v6.

Gords,

Thanks. I was kind of worried that I was getting “sideways” with you (and maybe others), which was never my intention.

Anyway, back on-topic, I think that I “discovered” a way to make a “shorty” with “my” STL-V6!

I had bought a couple of these lights:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/390535954299?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&\_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

awhile ago, with the intention of using the bodies to make a shorty DST (garrybunk’s DST thread), and I was messing around, and it looks like the body from that light “kind of” works with the head from “my” STL-V6!

What I mean by “kind of” is that it seems a little “flaky”, i.e., doesn’t seem to work all the time. I think that although it does thread ok, the threads may be “loose”. I’m still not sure yet, so I’m going to get a couple of other 26650 cheapie lights from Ebay to try them.

Jim

ah, dont worry, I was getting stroppy myself tbh.

The biggest problem is no one lists thread sizes, kind of hard to guess what’ll work.

If I may make a suggestion, how about sending the head and 18650 tube of choice tho chicago x and getting him to machine an adaptor ring to suit.

You know, when I first was working with the DST, awhile ago, that’s what I thought of (getting some custom work to do this), and I think I even posted a thread asking if anyone would do something like that, but no one ever responded, as far as I’m aware.

Thanks for the suggestion though…