One way of solving the parasitic drain in Fandyfire Rook

I have solved the parasitic drain in Fandyfire Rook, adding a hard transparent plastic and adhesive with three holes that coincide with the positive terminals of batteries. Just turn a little the body and the batteries are not making contact.

Wha!!! that`s funny, and very interesting! Well done!

Nice and simple ,usually the best :beer:

I’m assuming the threads are not anodized?

I love it when someone finds a elegant and inexpensive solution to a problem. Well done!

is the parasitic drain?

I must assume the Fandyfire Rook marketing people knew and approved of this
live with the drain or
add a switch

Thats the most simple/genius solution ever :slight_smile:

Thanks for sharing


PS: AFK for tinkering with my ROOK :slight_smile:

Brilliant idea Last Kutan! I applied your idea using some electrical tape to achieve the same result. Works like a charm!

That is brilliant man thanks!

Where did you get that plastic stuff? What is it intended for?

The material is a plastic film to cover the windows.
I use it also for realizare diffusion filters.

The Last Katun: That’s a really great idea! Thanks for sharing.

Gonna see if I can find something similar local. Grazie!

Haterade: I’m pretty sure plain old duct tape can be used instead of buying something specific.

Electrical tape worked fine…I just applied three narrow strips and it achieved the same result.

I'm thinking you could also use High Temperature Kapton Tape (used often on military electronics). It happens to be available at FastTech:

What a nice solution!!
Less is more!
Maybe now this light woth some 14500’s is interesting for me too…

I used electrical tape, but it has come off a couple times. Is the kapton tape more sticky than black electrical tape?

I know electrical tape is really meant to be stretched and wrapped, so it is not extremely sticky when just applying a small flat strip.

The drain on the Rook and Queen models is known and has been measured on other threads. I forget the exact number… but I killed a set of 3 Tenergy LifePO4 AAs rated at 400mAh in less than a month. I know these are low capacity, but still pretty unacceptable to me.

I think the way the OP did it is also nice because it might reduce a small amount of wear on the light. Lights like this one and the Skyray King can wear in the area that the battery tops rub on. I would still like to find a similar solution (rather than electrical tape) partly for this small added benefit.

For now, tape strips in a “Y” shape will due…

bump up the old thread just to thanks The Last Katun for the great idea.
simple and neat solution, thanks man! :slight_smile:

I just got my Rook yesterday.

Here’s my attempt at the lockout. I’m trying some nail polish for the 3 dead spots. I was kind of sloppy, but this was the first time I’ve ever used nail polish (I am a guy that doesn’t use that stuff, until now). I don’t know if it will hold or not. I wonder if a Sharpie would work or would it wear down over time?

I tried various tapes (in the Y pattern), but they all seem to peel away. I didn’t wait too long after putting the tape on before I tried twisting everything back. Maybe giving the glue in the tape more time to set would have helped?

I let the nail polish set overnight for it to really harden. Even after a few hours it was still kind of tacky (I lightly pushed my fingertip into it and it imprinted). Also make sure you clean the area before putting on the nail polish to insure good adhesion.

If the nail polish doesn’t work (I think it may get chipped over time), I am going to try some tape again. Full coverage, except cut-outs in between where I have the 3 nail polish spots.

I think you could probably use a dremel and carefully sand/grind down the three spots on that conductive ring for a really permanent fix.

Tricky part is trying to line up where those three spots should be. If you’re out a bit, I can see that you could end up running on 1 or 2 batteries instead of all 3 at once. Maybe someone could make a template that we can printout and cut to help align the dead zones. The narrower the dead zone, the better.