Strange enough I accounted for that already, if you do a ballpark calculation simplifying the two lights to being plain tubes, the difference is just a factor 2.6, which is completely counter-intuitive 
.
I recall, and I’ve always kinda hoped I could do something similar to mine. But then I remember how much hair-pulling you had to go through to mod yours. I don’t care that much, especially with the Q8 coming out.
The Meteor is reflashable, but its code (a prototype version is available) is rather opaque and, apparently, according to its author, carries a high risk of physically exploding if there are any bugs. I’m told that it can only really do a small specific set of brightness levels due to the way the hardware is designed, and if used wrong, the driver itself could self-destruct. I’m told true ramping isn’t feasible on it, aside from very brief ramps between fixed levels. So I haven’t really tried to change its firmware.
In general, boost drivers have more heat issues the higher the power is, because converting voltage creates heat. And in general, linear-regulated drivers like led4power makes have heat issues at around half power (but they’re fine at both the low end and high end).
If I understand correctly (which is questionable), the Meteor has both of these issues to deal with.
Meanwhile, the Q8 has neither limitation. The Q8 driver doesn’t generate a significant amount of heat no matter what mode it’s in; virtually all the heat comes from the LEDs. So the worst you could do with it is get it stuck in turbo… which will take quite a while before anything fails, and even then it’ll probably only damage the LEDs.
And if people want to change anything, the code is available and mod-friendly.
We are probably going a little off track, but I really would like to know more bout what you guys are discussing on the Meteor - reflashable? Is there a thread on this?
Fair point but with the PCB being so thin, it’s also possible the screw is stopped by the screw head reaching the screw hole in the light’s head. If they sized the PCB hole correctly, there can be minimal pressure on it. There does not need to be much as the only purpose of the screws is to keep the driver from falling out when the light is opened and to keep it from rotating. When everything is closed, they are useless.
Anyway, as has been pointed out previously, PCBs are pretty hard too. Try cutting one just for fun. I expect they’ll strip the head before they break the PCB.
For the screw issue, we are gonna address it with them, but don't think it's show stopper, myself anyways. The board is thick, the hole is only slightly narrower than the head of the flathead screw. Screws are typical non-high qual types. I didn't yet, but I could crank down on them. Hhmmm, I'm @work now so can show it to our super tech here, maybe an engineer or two, see what they think. These guys are very much experienced with PCB's and mechanical designs - they are all 30+ years doin this stuff.
Yeah, it’s probably better to go to the Meteor’s thread. Some of the background for this is about two years old now, on page 15 or 16-ish there:
Thanks TK!
Spoke with and showed one of the prototypes to the tech who has 45+ years experience, been through about the entire digital, not quite industrial, revolution (
), NASA/mil certified for soldering, etc. He said the new fire retardant G10 material PCB boards are made of is very tough, difficult to break or crack, unlike the older PCB's used in the past that could crack easier. He sees no concerns there, and has seen flathead screws used on PC boards before, some countersunk, some drilled straight and trimmed at the top edge, or just straight drilled. More important is the wear on the ground ring from tightening up the battery tube - we will bring this up and ask them about it. Might only be a concern after hundreds of tightenings though, but from frequent mech. lockouts, that could happen fairly quick on an actively used light.
If you were to ask a QC guy, he might suggest some sort of durability/reliability testing if he thought you were concerned about the wear on the ground ring… 
Great news Tom, this can save a heap of trouble and time
I’m glad you mentioned that Tom E, that was a concern of mine & glad it is being addressed.
Personally, I liked the driver retaining ring and standard size SRK driver much better than the screws and larger non-standard size driver. BUT, I understand the reasoning; so that preference is a non-issue at this point. It is what it is………
But what you mentioned above could be a real issue, so thank you for addressing it. :+1:
Please add me to the list for a Q8.
Thanks
I understand completely what you are saying ‘The OnlyDoc’ and it does make perfect sense. :+1:
Proper screw for proper job.
BUT, that being said; if these boards are made of G10: I pretty much think there is no worry at all . This stuff is tough as nails.
I have used a bunch for knife handles & have two “planks” of it 6.5’ x 8” x 0.5” that I use for car or truck ramps when I need to work under them.
We ran the counterweight end of a forklift up on them to test them out <span class=“floor. off 18” elevated end other & floor cement on plank of end one">
They did bend a very slight bit with the fork lift parked a little past mid way to the top. But it was a very slight bit.
With truck or car they barely even bend at all.
G10…… is tough. Even thin G10…
Edit for Update from Tom E…. Might be some concern over flat top screws after all. Stay tuned for breaking Q8 news.
Welcome to BLF!
Will update list later
Hmm maybe somebody already suggested this, but couldn’t a ring be made with the counter sunk screw holes in it, to clamp the PCB down? I’m sorry if it has already been suggested and thrown out onto the curb? 
Talked to two design EE's about the screws as well. Little more concern shown by them. They are more on the line of recommending countersunk holes, at least partial, say'n it would spread the load better, less chance of stress. Neither recalled working with or designing boards with flathead screws, but understood the need in this case. There definitely is some flare out at the top of the hole, so maybe not so bad.
KB - don't think it was suggested. Not sure if we got the clearance, or clearance would have to be made by making the battery ring thicker. Even if they could do 2 oz. or 5 oz. copper on the outer ground trace, that should help - dunno if it's cost effective or possible.
Please add me to the list for a Q8 as well.
Thanks,
John
I’m confused. Are these screws just holding the driver in place until the battery tube clamps it down or are they the primary clamp?
Holding it in place - battery tube is final ultimate clamp, but, screws must be somewhat tight so as not to loosen. The concern was the assembler over tightening with their screw guns - torque drivers are quite expensive so chances are remote they have them. I gotta post some close-up pics of the screws and holes...
My little 10.8 volt Makita drill has tightened at least 3000 terminal blocks and close to a 1000 of #6 to #10 screws. Still use the same clutch settings, I would hope their equipment is at least as good. If those screws are peoples biggest concerns at this point it tells me you guys did a fantastic job making the Q8.
With flat head screws in countersinks the screw will self center into the countersunk hole, this will guide the PCB into position. With more than one screw the screws will over constrain the position of the PCB . To center the LED with respect to the reflector and or center of the flashlight the position tolerance of the threaded holes in flashlight, and countersunk holes in the PCB will have to be held very tight (driving up cost).
The LED position when soldered in place will have to have tight position tolerances as well with respect to the countersunk holes to have everything line up. At assembly there will be little if not any chance to adjust the position of the LED
The pan head screws offer more adjustment to align / position the LED at assembly.