Thanks for clearing that up, I must have remembered it wrong.
Good to know though, since that makes the C8L an interesting option/light whenever I have a 6V led. (I do have a SFT-70 laying around which I don’t have a plan for yet, so who knows…)
Minor mod, but with a big difference: today I made a (plastic) shim to fit in between the (rubber) button and the electronic switch of my Niwalker ETmini V1, because the button press felt very inconsistent with sometimes almost no noticable ‘click’/feedback.
Read about this mod here on BLF, but this was the first time that I tried it and I have to say: it makes a big difference! Button now feels way more consistent and with a noticable click every time.
Used a thin piece of clear plastic from some packaging/box, cut out a slightly oversized circle and sanded it down to 7mm to make it fit.
Easy/small mod, but I’m happy with the result it gave!
Photo without and with the shim:
6 Thanks
A fairly low-key FW1A Pro mod today. I wanted to swap out the stock XHP50.2 emitter in an FW1A Pro with a 5700K XHP50.3 HI.
No TIR or Aux LEDs for this one, so also no need for a T1616 upgrade. I left the FET+7+1 driver as stock, except for flashing an up-to-date Anduril 2. I’m using the standard fw3a-219 version, in conjunction with a Samsung 35E battery, to limit the maximum current to the emitter. I want to avoid burning the emitter on turbo. I don’t want to take any risks exceeding the official maximum rated current (6A for the 3V emitter).
One other small change to the light is the addition of a GitD O-ring in the bezel.
Here are a few photos comparing the FW1A Pro before and after the emitter swap. The beam shots are all taken with my phone camera with white balance set to 4500K and with fixed ISO and shutter speed.
Stock XHP50.2 emitter (above) vs. XHP50.3 HI emitter (below)
Stock XHP50.2 emitter (above) vs. XHP50.3 HI emitter (below)
Beam: FW1A Pro, stock XHP50.2, 6500K (I think), stock reflector
Beam: FW1A Pro, XHP50.3 HI, 5700K, stock reflector
Beam: FW1A, 519A, 5700K, Jarmay TIR
Beam: FW1A Pro, SFT40, 3000K, Yajiamei TIR
For me, the XHP50.3 HI gives a nicer beam than the XHP50.2. It’s a little more focussed and nicer to look at. However, both are a bit green and I much prefer the tint on the 519A in the FW1A.
I’ve also confirmed for myself, by doing this exercise, that I do prefer a TIR beam in the FW1A / FW1A Pro.
4 Thanks
thanks for the photo…
I just ordered some a few days ago, to try in a light that comes w an XM-L2 in a reflector, the 2012 RRT-01, shown modded to sw45k:
after seeing this pic in the koef3 SFT40 review:
Im very curious to see how clean the spot and spill beam turns out w the SFT40 in my 2012 RRT-01 w the stock XM-L2 reflector (else I can also try the XP reflector)
pic shows the Titanium version of RRT-01, called TCR-1
1 Thank
Yes, that was the review that inspired me to try the 3000K SFT40 in my FW1A Pro mods.
Keep us up to date with your results when your one comes in.
1 Thank
Put together a Convoy S2+ in blue, combined with the copper 18350 tube. The inspiration for this combination was not my own, but was “stolen” from member @worrub918, who posted a picture of his in this topic. (I just liked the look so much, that I decided to copy his build. 
)
Currently there is a white Osram NM1 LED in it, with a Convoy 4 mode driver. Not sure if I will keep this combination (although it does make for a nice and ‘compact’ thrower), or that I maybe swap in a different LED.
7 Thanks
That looks awesome! What emitter is in it?
1 Thank
@worrub918: I think I wasn’t completely focussed when I typed this, since it had to be an (Osram) NM1 LED, instead of a driver, obviously! 
I’ve corrected the original post. 
1 Thank
LOL! 
It happens. Been there, done that!
1 Thank
Coming a bit late to the game with FW modding, I needed to get hold of some FW3X models as lume1 donors for some of my mods.
That left me, on the one hand, with “empty” FW3X hosts with no driver and, on the other hand, some FET+7+1 drivers that were swapped out of those other lights.
As I have recently been enamoured with FW1As and FW1A Pros, I decided to create an FW1A with these “left-overs”. As far as I know, there were no factory-made black aluminium FW1As, so this puts an FW3X host to good use for a custom light.
I had to source some 3mm FW1A MCPCBs for this (from Jackson Lee) and drill additional holes in the FW3X host’s shelf to have the wires come through in the right place. I also needed a suitable bezel, fortunately a Reddit user came good after I posted a WTB. As usual, I wanted to add Aux LEDs and chose red, yellow/green and ice blue LEDs to put on a Tri-LED Aux-board. To support 3 colours, I upgraded the FET+7+1 driver with a T1616 MCU.
For the emitter, I chose a 5700K 519A to get a high CRI, high CCT thrower. To make it as throwy as possible, I’m using a Jarmay MUAW-2205 optic, which also makes for mesmerising Aux LED patterns.
This has turned out very well and I’m wondering why Lumintop never issued a black aluminium FW1A.
Here are some photos:
A crenelated titanium bezel goes well with the black aluminium host
The optic
Red, yellow/green and ice-blue Aux LEDs
This optic makes for some very pretty Aux LED patterns
With the Tri-LED Aux board, the Aux colours don’t fully mix, instead making patterns
I’m very pleased with this one.
10 Thanks
How does the yellow/green LED (GaP 555nm I suppose) behaves on low? Does it get much dimmer than the red or the ice blue? I like this color but the performance of the specimens I’ve tested wasn’t great. Direct emission yellow LEDs were also unimpressive.
1 Thank
I would be too. Veiy narce 
That looks gorgeous! I love the pattern of the aux. Great work!!!
Installed SFT-40 3000K on stock mcpcb after removing XM-L2 from 2012 RRT-01.
the small LES does not produce a good beam in the XM reflector. There are shadow rings around the corona and in the spill. The Tint is very neutral. Data from Opple 4, take with salt.
Tint Comparison w 219b
9 Thanks
Since the Baked S2+ I built for my son turned out so beautifully, I decided I needed a Baked light.
I had a Black Convoy S21A so I decided to Bake it.
Unfortunately my wife wasn’t as excited as I was about baking another flashlight in our oven.
So, I picked up a used Toaster Oven at Goodwill for $7.99.
Before:
During:
After(it turned Ombré Maroon all on it’s own!):
15 Thanks
The yellow/green are very, very dim on low. Only just visible in a very dark room. Much dimmer than the other two colours, so overpowered in the 2- or 3-colour mixes.
The ones I’m using are item #32689316763 on AliExpress.
Thanks for the update. That’s a shame that the beam profile isn’t very good.
Yes, the beam profile means I will still need to redo the mod… The XM reflector has too big a base hole for the tiny SFT-40, but I cant use an XP reflector, because the SFT die is too big for an XP centering ring.
I also dont like how yellow the SFT-40 Tint is… I would use a DeDomed 4500K 519a, but then I would be unhappy w the hotspot irregularity… I dont care for DD 519a in a reflector…
This all leads me back to 219b… since my recent tests of FFL351A, FFL350RD, and SFT-40 have all been yellow to green tinted.
I have no plans to try another FFL, nor SFT. I wont even bother w the FFL351A 4000K, as it looks to have excessive pink tint in the -0.0110 range.
1 Thank
Have you tried DC fix with the SFT40 3000K? It would fix that beam and might help with the tint slightly.
I’ve tried a few SFT40 3000K samples. They seem to have better tint in TIRs.
1 Thank
I dont use DCFix, I dont like the idea of sticking plastic film to my lens.
I much prefer a Pebbled Tir, it definitely helps w tint and beam blending, if the particular light is compatible w the Tir… unfortunately that is not the case w the 2012 RRT-01, not only does the 20mm tir need the edges ground off to fit the diameter of the head, the Tir is too short to press the mcpcb to the shelf… would require shimming the mcpcb to sit higher… its a bit involved, for this particular model of light.