sk68 clone: longitudinal section

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djozz
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sk68 clone: longitudinal section

Hi, I won a sk68 clone in a Tinydeal thread a few months ago, and their deal was that I had to write a review in return. I ignored that a little because a review is quite an effort in return for such a cheap light, especially because it would be boring: just about everything has been said about the sk68 already. And again, and again, and.... And all possible mods have been done and documented (some by me).  And then last week I got a polite PM from Jane to remind me of the promise Cry.

So I have to come up with something that has not been done to the sk68, and so here is my version of the sk68 clone review, courtesy my band saw:

The other half, not quite tidied up:

(There's one piece missing: I lost the tiny spring in the switch Sad  )

I hope you enjoyed the review Smile

Edited by: djozz on 08/23/2014 - 14:39
WarHawk-AVG
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Wicked cool!

With the cutaway, I can now show people the method I use by filling the hole behind the emitter w/ epoxy to facilitate pulling heat to the sides (I guess the potting method would actually be better)

Great pics man!!!!

(this needs to be stickied)

and of course MORE lights need to be sectionalized Smile

M4D M4X
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nice one!

 

already member of M4DM4X.com ?

the best deals are waiting for YOU!

 

before you buy elsewhere mail me: MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will try to save you money!

HBomb
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Cool!

CRX
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A picture is worth a thousand words eh… Smile

Looks like those plastic aspheric lenses are made of two pieces bonded together, interesting.

djozz
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CRX wrote:
A picture is worth a thousand words eh... Smile Looks like those plastic aspheric lenses are made of two pieces bonded together, interesting.

no, that would be way to much honour for the humble sk68, what you see is the rim on the other side of the lens, it is one solid piece.

CRX
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djozz wrote:
what you see is the rim on the other side of the lens, it is one solid piece.

Ah cool, had me wondering. Thanks for sharing.

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Cool review! Thank you Wink

~ Ledsmoke ~

Dutch humor:

[quote=djozz]

 I do not think that the BLF-community ben

saypat
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too funny! Hope Jane enjoyed it.

MRsDNF
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Are you having a 50% of sale on this?Foot in Mouth

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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Great job, thanks for sharing!

BLF ≠ B-grade Flashlight Forum

 

djozz
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MRsDNF wrote:

Are you having a 50% of sale on this?Foot in Mouth

Yes I am, but please consider that the output will also be a bit less than stock.

islisis
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now that truly belongs in a flashaholic museum Smile

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This made my day. I couldn’t help but LOL when I saw the bare piece. Thanks! Fresh, never-done-before review for an old school light. Smile

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Simply the best sk68 review ever! Beer Beer


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Helios- wrote:
Simply the best sk68 review ever! Beer :beer:

+1

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http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19342

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Very nicely done, thanks!

I remember a time, when I searched for lights to fit my needs. Now I search for needs to fit my lights.

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Yeah great job!

Fritz t. Cat
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The main design problem, aside from the hollow pill, appears to be the thin section between the bottom of the pill and the finned part of the body. This may keep it from becoming too hot to hold, but it reduces the cooling of the led. A way for a clone maker to avoid that may be to make the light slightly longer and overlap the pill with the thick finned section. Or one could make the head thinner and the front of the body thicker. In practice, the finned section heats up about as much as the head does, so it may not be a serious problem. The overall thickness and the well shaped fins imply importance of thermal management, so these problems threaten its right to dominate it class.
An aftermarket fix for the hollow pill is to use a thicker star.
(The one I am working on with an XM-L2 on a Noctigon draws two amps. from an IRM, so I want to braid the tail spring/switch.)

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

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Brilliant

It shows just how little metal to metal contact there is with a screwthread Tired

Cheers David

Nothing to see here folks, move along...

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pommie wrote:
Brilliant

It shows just how little metal to metal contact there is with a screwthread Tired

Cheers David

I use thermal compound on all my lights with screw in pills and on most of the really high power ones at the head:body connection. Dont forget that on higher quality lights the threads are going to be more precision cut leading to a better amount of surface contact.

I’m surprised the lens cut so cleanly! I’m also surprised to see copper inside the clicky.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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This needs an anatomy thread. Nice work Djozz.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

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Very well done Wink

Look at the crappy threads on the tail cap.

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Excellent !
What’s next ?
C8 ?

"In the land of the blond the one eyed man is king."

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djozz
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Cereal_killer wrote:
I'm surprised the lens cut so cleanly! I'm also surprised to see copper inside the clicky.

I'm surprised to see copper (brass) in the switch too.

The cutting did not go that clean, I sanded the individual pieces after the cutting, and then fitted it together again. The lens cut was even a bit polished with a piece of paper.

Fritz t. Cat
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The problem with screw thread fit is apparently thermal expansion from the heat generated while machining. Of course more expensive lights can be made with the lath turning more slowly and maybe cooling liquid and better compensation for the expansion.
Cheaper lights, on the other hand, because they may sell in much larger quantities, can have more work and talent going into programming the numerical control, so they can have nicer shapes than more expensive lights can.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

Wilson
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djozz wrote:

MRsDNF wrote:

Are you having a 50% of sale on this?Foot in Mouth

Yes I am, but please consider that the output will also be a bit less than stock.

The perfect question gets the perfect answer. Where else but BLF? :bigsmile:

Inquire…Choose…Proceed

Fritz t. Cat
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Wilson wrote:
djozz wrote:

MRsDNF wrote:

Are you having a 50% of sale on this?Foot in Mouth

Yes I am, but please consider that the output will also be a bit less than stock.

The perfect question gets the perfect answer. Where else but BLF? :bigsmile:


It took me a while to get that one. :Sp

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

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For future reference, sectioning like this goes a lot better, and easier if you pot the entire part and draw a vacuum to remove the air bubbles. Once you remove half, you can polish up the face to get a nice outline with everything frozen in place. If you remember to cast it in a nice “frame” or have a way to square it up and polish the outsides, it makes for a good showpiece.

very nice work, though. Definitely an out-of the box review!

edit… Just found some money in my DX account and have one on the way Party

I can’t believe I have no AA/14500 lights!

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Beam shots or it didn’t happen!!!!!! J)

I enjoyed that.

Do a Fenix TK75 next! lol Oops

RicFlair is on the air with blonde hair & pink underwear!! Whaoooooo!

Fritz t. Cat
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Reminds me of the half cup of tea in Disney’s Alice in Wonderland.
I can’t find a good image of it.

Flashlight designers should look at lighthouses and pottery.
这些谁设计的手电筒应该看灯塔,以及在陶器。

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