Manker E14 Mods

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CRX
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Manker E14 Mods

Manker E14 Quad XP-L HI V2 1A - FET 17 - 18350 - Fw Clicky Sw - 2500lm.Manker E14 Quad XP-L HI V2 1A - FET 17 - 18350 - Fw Clicky Sw - 2500lm.

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Battery tube was too long at ends, leaving gaps, showing orings so I filed it down a little from 37mm to 36.5mm and blackened the copper head to see what it would look like.Manker E14 Quad XP-L HI V2 1A - FET 17 - 18350 - Fw Clicky Sw - 2500lm.

The head was glued, it was not strong stuff though, quite chewy.
Wrapped up head & body well with G-tape and ran the light in turbo mode until very hot.
Twisted off bezel, difficulty rating – 4.
All XP-G2 emitters present and accounted for.
Plastic screw washers – washering, screws – not made from cheese.
Soldering – not too bad.

Thermal paste coverage – Fail, MCPCB – Fail.
This damage obviously kept the board raised slightly on one side so I’ve lapped it flat but this is as good as this MCPCB will be.

Raised bumps around screw taps & sharp edges around central wire hole on driver side countersunk fixed.
Extra long 24 AWG silicone wires replaced with shorter thicker 20 AWG.
Preliminary readings - 7.42A Max.

Swapped single driver spring for 2.5mm copper stud
Installed four XP-L HI v2 1A LED’s and changed polarity of the MCPCB.
Eventually changed the driver to a 17mm MTN FET with GuppyDrv Rev1. 8.51A Max.

Manker E14 Quad XP-L HI V2 1A - FET 17 - 18350 - Fw Clicky Sw - 2500lm.

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Installed battery tube anti-rattle film – this is just thin sticky back plastic film (I like carbon fibre effect)
Measure inside diameter of tube, multiply by 3.14 and this will give the length you need for a nice tube insert.
Reverse clicky changed to forward clicky with wire spring bypass, sanded down switch retaining ring from 3.1mm to 2.42mm and used a thinner brass washer.
Tritium vial installed in lanyard slot

Manker E14 Quad XP-L HI V2 1A - FET 17 - 18350 - Fw Clicky Sw - 2500lm.

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Manker E14 Quad XP-L HI V2 1A - FET 17 - 18350 - Fw Clicky Sw - 2500lm.Manker E14 Quad XP-L HI V2 1A - FET 17 - 18350 - Fw Clicky Sw - 2500lm.

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18500 battery tube version.

 

Edited by: CRX on 10/27/2018 - 18:07
MRsDNF
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Very nice. I like your battery tube inner wrap. Your mod reminds me of mods gone by and rarely posted up today. Thanks for taking the time to post it up. Smile
I wonder how well the anodising would bake? Silly

 

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M4D M4X
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thanks a lot for the nice pictures and sharing your great work

 

find all available items in this list

i launched my new blog - all deals for members without MAP B$ Wink

find a short description about my idea here

 

if you want to buy a flashlight or battery for a better price: just send a mail - i will try to save you money!

The Miller
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If it is the same ano as the X5/x6 it won’t bake nice and shiny Sad

Nice work CRX!

Firelight2
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Awesome job CRX! Cool

How did you blacken the copper head?

CRX
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Thanks guys Thumbs Up

Firelight2 wrote:
How did you blacken the copper head?

I use cold bluing solutions for darkening metals.

Ouchyfoot
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Yes, nice simple tweaking.
No real stress, just a bit of spare time filled with minor tasks that make a nice little difference when completed.

Blackening?…please tell.
Anti rattle film? …I am curious yellow.

pinkpanda3310
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Nice work. The black head looks cool but I kinda like the showy copper.

HorizontalHunter
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Very nice.

Did you double up the rear spring by adding the front spring? I assume this is equivalent to a bypass.

I was lucky; no glue on mine.

Bob

Vegetarian: vejiˈte(ə)rēən/noun: old Indian word for lousy hunter.

Firelight2
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CRX wrote:
Thanks guys Thumbs Up
Firelight2 wrote:
How did you blacken the copper head?

I use cold bluing solutions for darkening metals.

Interesting! Can you provide a link to what you use? I can see a number of uses for this in my mods.

CRX
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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
Nice work. The black head looks cool but I kinda like the showy copper.

How about a compromise Wink

Thread updated with new stuff about the head rebuilding and i think i’ve answered those who asked questions there.

Thanks for reading.

Ouchyfoot
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Pimp master.

Firelight2
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Wow CRX. the black in the heatsink slots looks great! SmileBeer

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Hmm.. after seeing the innards of yours I’m inclined to follow suit and do some tweaking. Nice looking head, too. Did you rub off the coating and will it patina now?

Thanks for posting this up Smile

djozz
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Thanks for posting this very nice pictorial of the build and tweaks!

antiparanoico
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Is this copper?

Please, I need confirmation.

If anything can go wrong, it will.
Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value.

zelee
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my S41 is glued so i can’t open it without damaging the head Facepalm

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I am kind to everyone, but when someone is unkind to me, weak is not what you are going to remember about me.

Tom E
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antiparanoico wrote:
Is this copper? ... Please, I need confirmation.

It looks like we are looking at nickel. All Noctigons are very thin coated gold on the outside, nickel underneath to help the with the gold bonding, and then the solid copper under the nickel. Around the indentations, you can see all 3 layers.

The gold can be removed practically waving super fine grit sandpaper over it, while the nickel takes a little bit of rubbing. I've sanded down many a Noctigons over the years.

antiparanoico
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Tom E wrote:

antiparanoico wrote:
Is this copper? … Please, I need confirmation.

It looks like we are looking at nickel. All Noctigons are very thin coated gold on the outside, nickel underneath to help the with the gold bonding, and then the solid copper under the nickel. Around the indentations, you can see all 3 layers.


The gold can be removed practically waving super fine grit sandpaper over it, while the nickel takes a little bit of rubbing. I’ve sanded down many a Noctigons over the years.

Thanks! It seemed aluminum.

If anything can go wrong, it will.
Matter will be damaged in direct proportion to its value.

HorizontalHunter
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Firelight2 wrote:
Wow CRX. the black in the heatsink slots looks great! SmileBeer

X2

Looks awesome.

Bob

Vegetarian: vejiˈte(ə)rēən/noun: old Indian word for lousy hunter.

Ouchyfoot
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Q: is the bluing conductive, and can it be soldered to?

jack-bkk
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great job

thanks for your time to document it and share with us

btw your collection looks great

Dirt
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Great thread crx! that looks stunning with the black stripes.

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Great job, it looks super.

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CRX, what battery are you using? It must be 16340 or cr123? I just took about .005” off of each end of the battery tube to square it up and improve contact. I don’t think I can go any shorter and still take a 18350. Also mine is a S41 but I doubt there’s any difference.

M4D M4X
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V2 looks georgous!

find all available items in this list

i launched my new blog - all deals for members without MAP B$ Wink

find a short description about my idea here

 

if you want to buy a flashlight or battery for a better price: just send a mail - i will try to save you money!

CRX
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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
Did you rub off the coating and will it patina now?

Yes the coating came off mostly with acetone, should patina nicely now

.

antiparanoico wrote:
Is this copper?

Yeah i think Toms explanation is right there

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zelee wrote:
my S41 is glued so i can’t open it without damaging the head Facepalm

C’mon, give it a shot like i showed, you can do it Wink

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Ouchyfoot wrote:
Q: is the bluing conductive, and can it be soldered to?

It’s just a thin layer of oxidised copper so would imagine it’s only slighly less conductive and would need cleaned before soldering

.

jack-bkk wrote:
great job

thanks for your time to document it and share with us

btw your collection looks great

Thanks Smile

.

Dirt wrote:
Great thread crx! that looks stunning with the black stripes.

Yeah i think it does look better now

.

Turningbluechips wrote:
CRX, what battery are you using? It must be 16340 or cr123? I just took about .005” off of each end of the battery tube to square it up and improve contact. I don’t think I can go any shorter and still take a 18350. Also mine is a S41 but I doubt there’s any difference.

That’s why i trimmed down the driver retaining ring and replaced the spring with a copper stud so as to leave plenty of space in the battery compartment.

Here’s mine with a flat top purple Efest 18350, still space for a button top

.

M4D M4X wrote:

V2 looks georgous!

V2, i like that

lionheart_2281
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Amazing work!!! What’s your address, I want to send you mine Smile

(joking…kinda….not really)

FmC
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Nice work sorting out the details – that’s where the devil is, & something we’ll probably never see coming off a production line in a budget light.

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I’m thinking about changing mine to a forward clicky. Besides the switch, do i need any other parts? Just wanted to know before i tackle this.

thanks!

CRX
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It’s a fairly simple swap, i think i just cut the nub off the rubber boot and used a slightly thinner washer.

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