#GB44 ASTROLUX MF01 18xCREE XP-G3/ NICHIA 219C (12klm) Flashlight Group Buy //// ACTIVE!

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freeme
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MF01 is out of stock right now. Chinese New Year is closing, not sure if there will be any more coming before 16th Feb.

Jacsi
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MF01 is in stock. Please send me a code for a MF01. Thanks.

JIGHEADWORM
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Mf01 nichia with TA driver and vtc5a’s should be 17000 lumens on startup.

SKV89
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I just bought one with the Nichia 219c. Thanks for setting up the GB!

Light Years
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Can you send me the code please?

MichielSanders
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picked mine up at the post office this morning, going to play with it tonight Big Smile thanks freeme Thumbs Up

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Caseit741
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Is it possible to purchase the head only? I already have a MF02 and wanted a dual head light.

JasonWW
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Caseit741 wrote:
Is it possible to purchase the head only? I already have a MF02 and wanted a dual head light.

I’ve only seen the MT35/MF02 head sold seperately. I haven’t seen it the other way around.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

patmurris
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JIGHEADWORM wrote:
Mf01 nichia with TA driver and vtc5a’s should be 17000 lumens on startup.

Mine tops at 13-14k with 30Qs.
Honestly it is more then enough and probably way too much considering the heat and lack of deep fins on the head.
SKV89
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Bangood is now selling it for $77.95 without coupon. I bought mine yesterday with the coupon though.

freeme
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+1

SKV89 wrote:
Bangood is now selling it for $77.95 without coupon. I bought mine yesterday with the coupon though.
SKV89
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hiKARInoob, did you measure those values? So V2 is dimmer than V1? I just received my MF01 219c today so I’m assuming it is V2. It’s smaller than I expected and the tint is slightly less yellow the the 219c on my S42.

hIKARInoob wrote:

I’m afraid that’s not the case. Output does reduce with reducing voltage of the cells.

MF01 V2 (boost driver)
4.2V => 9100 lumen
3.6V => 7200 lumen

Output is maintained better though compared to V1 (older version).

MF01 V1
4.2V => 10000 lumen
3.6V => 5400 lumen

(my measurements)

hIKARInoob
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SKV89 wrote:
hiKARInoob, did you measure those values? So V2 is dimmer than V1? I just received my MF01 219c today so I’m assuming it is V2. It’s smaller than I expected and the tint is slightly less yellow the the 219c on my S42.

hIKARInoob wrote:

I’m afraid that’s not the case. Output does reduce with reducing voltage of the cells.

MF01 V2 (boost driver)
4.2V => 9100 lumen
3.6V => 7200 lumen

Output is maintained better though compared to V1 (older version).

MF01 V1
4.2V => 10000 lumen
3.6V => 5400 lumen

(my measurements)

Ceiling bounce using the Meteor M43 as a reference. The beam profiles of M43 and MF01 are close to identical, so I believe absolute lumens are sufficiently accurate. Max output is also in concurrence with measurements of other members I’ve read.
Since V1 and V2 have identical beam, relative output is correct. So in my case V2 is slighty less bright than V1 with full cells, but V2 maintains higher output with depleting cells. Both are 219C.

SKV89
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I was just playing around with my new MF01 and after awhile, when I enable Turbo mode, it just turns off randomly and goes into lockout mode. I would have to hold the button 2 sec to unlock it. It happened several times. The batteries are VTC6. It’s not fully charged but the light indicator is red so that means there’s still charge in it.

Does MF01 have any protection mechanism that turns off and enters lockout mode under turbo mode when it overheats or battery voltage not enough?

hIKARInoob
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Never read about it. There is thermal step down, so the light should not switch off or something. The indicator should turn red at 3.4V IIRC. And if I’m not mistaken this means at 3.7V resting voltage, if you go to turbo form there, you will have sag until 3.4V so red light turns on. This also means if you then go to a low output, voltage will rise again above 3.4V and light turns green again.
It sounds like a defect to me, but maybe freeme or anyone else knows more about this?

SKV89
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Actually I think it is because of the low battery. I put in full charged batteries and it does not automatically turn off anymore. Also I think it is more than 8000 lumens when running with fully charged VTC6. I get ceiling bounce of 1,220 lux whereas my Emisar D4 XP-L HI v2 4000k reaches 420 lux for 1st second and drops to 370-380 lux in 2-3 seconds. The D4 should be about 4000 lumens at max output. However, its strange my 1,600 lumens BLF A6 XPL V6 with fully charged VTC6 reaches 200 lux and Astrolux S42 219c 5000k gets 209 lux at startup. The BLF A6 is supposed to be 1440 lumens without sprint bypass mod.

I will do a few more ceiling bounce test to compare with other lights I have coming in when I get them, which includes the Manker MK34, Haikelite MT09R XHP70.2, and Noctigon M43, just to name a few. Yea flashlights are addictive…

ssschen
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Understand it is Spring Festival / CNY now so shipping most likely won’t happen for at least another week or two, but keen on this light if GB price is still available. Thanks.

NEU
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SKV89 wrote:
Actually I think it is because of the low battery. I put in full charged batteries and it does not automatically turn off anymore. Also I think it is more than 8000 lumens when running with fully charged VTC6. I get ceiling bounce of 1,220 lux whereas my Emisar D4 XP-L HI v2 4000k reaches 420 lux for 1st second and drops to 370-380 lux in 2-3 seconds. The D4 should be about 4000 lumens at max output. However, its strange my 1,600 lumens BLF A6 XPL V6 with fully charged VTC6 reaches 200 lux and Astrolux S42 219c 5000k gets 209 lux at startup. The BLF A6 is supposed to be 1440 lumens without sprint bypass mod.

I will do a few more ceiling bounce test to compare with other lights I have coming in when I get them, which includes the Manker MK34, Haikelite MT09R XHP70.2, and Noctigon M43, just to name a few. Yea flashlights are addictive…


Yes. I am asking for more comparisons, I am also just waiting for shipment Manker MK34 to compare with Astrolux MF01 Nichia 219c V1
stfc69
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I’d like a group buy code if it’s still available please.

Thanks very much.

Lexel
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I have here a MF01 that was sent to me for mod, but I cant get the bezel off

I tried heat it to 150°C without success

hIKARInoob
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Please try counter clock wise this time.

(j/k Silly )

Lexel
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hIKARInoob wrote:
Please try counter clock wise this time.

(j/k Silly )

are you serious?

hIKARInoob
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Lexel wrote:
hIKARInoob wrote:
Please try counter clock wise this time.

(j/k Silly )

are you serious?

j/k = just kidding. I know you da man. Thumbs Up

JasonWW
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Lexel wrote:
I have here a MF01 that was sent to me for mod, but I cant get the bezel off

I tried heat it to 150°C without success


How are you turning it, with rubber strap wrenches?

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

Lexel
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Great job Banggood gluing the bezel with red locktite

Took me almost 2 straight hours to get it open having to drive to my parents home on top to use a big vise to clamp it

And now the optics and lens is all over with that stuff

NEU
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Lexel wrote:
Great job Banggood gluing the bezel with red locktite

Took me almost 2 straight hours to get it open having to drive to my parents home on top to use a big vise to clamp it

And now the optics and lens is all over with that stuff

Good old Hermetic red glue Evil . He keeps bombs Evil , no temperature or chemistry does not move it. Only a strength solution.

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How easy is it to remove the little plastic discs so that flat top cells can be used? And is there any disadvantage to doing this?

Lexel
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I am back at my home, after I had to drive to my parents house to get hands on that stationary vise




JasonWW
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FlashIight wrote:
How easy is it to remove the little plastic discs so that flat top cells can be used? And is there any disadvantage to doing this?

I’ve heard it’s easy to remove them.

They are there to provide polarity protection. As long as you always put your batteries in the right way you will be fine.

Only if you put a battery in wrong by accident will you fry the driver.

My Convoy L6 thread with XHP70.2, Texas Avenger FET driver, Narsil v1.2 ramping firmware (old), lighted side switch and cut down SMO reflector. Lots of amp draws on stock driver as well. 

My Supfire L5-S thread with XHP70.2, 26350 cells (4,100 lumen!), Texas Avenger FET driver, NarsilM v1.0 ramping firmware and lighted side switch. My mini L6! 

9 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT Mini and ROT66

Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube

Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices 

Review Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light

Lexel
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JasonWW wrote:
FlashIight wrote:
How easy is it to remove the little plastic discs so that flat top cells can be used? And is there any disadvantage to doing this?

I’ve heard it’s easy to remove them.

They are there to provide polarity protection. As long as you always put your batteries in the right way you will be fine.

Only if you put a battery in wrong by accident will you fry the driver.

The driver will be fine with reverse polority, but if you short 2 parallel batteries you will melt the springs

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