Pre production sample [Review] Astrolux MF-01 4x18650 flashlight supplied by Banggood

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Lexel
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Meco are crappy batteries too bad HKJ has not tested them

But 4000mAh on the label says all you need to know

RollerBoySE
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JasonWW wrote:
Why do people think they can install 4,000 mah protected cells in a 12k lumen light?

Unless you hang here on BLF (or CPF) it is not that easy to know.

hIKARInoob
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JasonWW wrote:
Why do people think they can install 4,000 mah protected cells in a 12k lumen light? That is false mah rating for sure on those cheap cells.

Ironically, four pieces of 5000 mAh Ultrafire cells seem to be able to power a 20000 lumen Ultrafire Skyray King clone, so 12000 lumens should be no problem…. Silly

JasonWW
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hIKARInoob wrote:
Another faulty MF01. At this rate the MF01 seems to become a total disaster.

Aren’t you over reacting a bit? Lol

Still think the same?

hIKARInoob
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JasonWW wrote:
hIKARInoob wrote:
Another faulty MF01. At this rate the MF01 seems to become a total disaster.

Aren’t you over reacting a bit? Lol

Still think the same?

Luckily it was not a faulty MF01. Phew…

mud_muncher
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I Just received the Nichia from the last sale. Seems like a great light with good weight too it. All the LEDs are working well. Although I can’t see anymore from looking side on at the light on turbo during the middle of the day. I am using button top 30qs, they went in fairly easy.

Nicolicous
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Here is a solution for those wanting access to low mode to reserve the night vision.

Always put on low mode before you switch off the light. This mode will memorised on low and when you need turbo, you can access by double clicks.

Not the best method but im happy with it for now. Silly . I suspect they will amend the driver to have low mode direct access.

Nico -.-

hIKARInoob
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Nicolicous wrote:
Here is a solution for those wanting access to low mode to reserve the night vision.

Always put on low mode before you switch off the light. This mode will memorised on low and when you need turbo, you can access by double clicks.

Not the best method but im happy with it for now. Silly . I suspect they will amend the driver to have low mode direct access.

Or you can unscrew the tailcap half turn to cut power, then screw on to power again. Light indicates when power is cut off for convenience. Light will turn on in low mode as well. Also not really elegant… but this works as well.

Nicolicous
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hIKARInoob wrote:
Or you can unscrew the tailcap half turn to cut power, then screw on to power again. Light indicates when power is cut off for convenience. Light will turn on in low mode as well. Also not really elegant… but this works as well.
your method is even better Big Smile

Nico -.-

yasenf
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Hello, I have recieved both versions, but in XP-G2 there is a big space between the lens and the besel – it easily accepts envelope end. In Nichia version I was able to insert “only” A4 sheet. Now this makes me wonder 2 things:

1. Is waterproofness really there
2. If I try to screw the besel is there a chance to damage the LEDs?

Any thoughts?

Lexel
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if you shake the light the lens should not moove
the o-ring is on the edge so to stick in there a bit is normal

if the lens moves you can sand down the bezels back a bit,
I had to do this on the prototype, but it should be fixed in the production lights

JasonWW
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yasenf wrote:
Hello, I have recieved both versions, but in XP-G2 there is a big space between the lens and the besel – it easily accepts envelope end. In Nichia version I was able to insert “only” A4 sheet. Now this makes me wonder 2 things:

1. Is waterproofness really there
2. If I try to screw the besel is there a chance to damage the LEDs?

Any thoughts?


The TIR lense is seperate from the glass lens, so you should be okay with turning the bezel to tighten or loosen it. Still, it might be best to push down on the glass lens as you turn the bezel to make sure it does not turn and rip the domes off the leds.
Tom Tom
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Basic question, how do you use 7135s on a 2S (8.4V) light ?

Or do they just work well beyond ratings ?

yasenf
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Thanks a lot Lexel and JasonWW

Lexel
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Tom Tom wrote:
Basic question, how do you use 7135s on a 2S (8.4V) light ?

Or do they just work well beyond ratings ?

The claw type from a Ali Express store work well on 2S
Too bad they stopped selling the claw type

Tom Tom
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Lexel wrote:
Tom Tom wrote:
Basic question, how do you use 7135s on a 2S (8.4V) light ?

Or do they just work well beyond ratings ?

The claw type from a Ali Express store work well on 2S
Too bad they stopped selling the claw type

So which can you now recommend for this application ?

Lexel
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Just have to test other supplier which ones show the claw in product page

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Tom Tom wrote:
Basic question, how do you use 7135s on a 2S (8.4V) light ?

Or do they just work well beyond ratings ?

I guess that ensuring that VDD-GND and OUT-GND voltage is below 6V will work…

JasonWW
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FreeMagenta wrote:
Tom Tom wrote:
Basic question, how do you use 7135s on a 2S (8.4V) light ?

Or do they just work well beyond ratings ?

I guess that ensuring that VDD-GND and OUT-GND voltage is below 6V will work…


No, they simply work beyond their ratings.
FreeMagenta
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Am I wrong? Possible, I am still on newbie level…
…but if so, why? Looks for me that AMC is still within limits with first LED working as a voltage drop.
PS. Forgot the grounding of the first capacitor Smile

Of course I can use Zener diode + resistor on VDD instead of using LED, for better safety Smile but I wanted to show most simplistic design.

Lexel
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your picture wont work, basically you run XHP70s at 6V
you cant simply use a wire in between the LEDs of a multi Emitter LED to run a hypothetical half battery voltage

the VDD is run from the MCU and with a LDO it is usually 5V, but somehow under our dual channel drivers also the FET comes in play with current spikes
Vdd is usually with a PWM signal from the MCU and is 5V

then they sit simply between the LED minus and ground with the other 2 connections

The problem with the 8.4V is simply a voltage spike generated when the FET get activated

yasenf
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If somebody is interested, below is a video of a friend – MF-01 XPG version in action:

FreeMagenta
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My MF-01 broke after few hours (edit: 2 days from delivery, few hours of use). One of the banks of diodes always turn on, on full power, as soon as I screw the tailcap. Can’t be turned off other way than unscrewing the cap. other banks are working normally.

edit:
@Lexel: So what if I just use Zener diode to ensure the voltage won’t exceed 6V? AMC won’t need to drop 6V …

Lexel
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All the MCUs we use are rated for 5V, in a side switch light we need to keep the standby current low and a Zener diode mod draw a few mA, while the LDOs usually have 20-30uA

we do not overdrive the AMCs at the Vdd side or the LED side when the light is on
Vdd comes with 5V from the MCU and the LEDs eat up 6-7.5V from the supply voltage
but when we turn the light off still the full battery voltage lays over the LEDs and the AMCs
some AMCs have then a small leak current which makes the LEDs glow

DEL and Toykeeper looked at the sudden death of AMC7135s in high power 2S lights that draw 30-35A, it usually happen when the driver switches from AMCs to FET, so there is some sort of spike which damages the AMCs

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yasenf wrote:
If somebody is interested, below is a video of a friend – MF-01 XPG version in action:

The xp-g3 looks good to me on video. but i heard nichia is even better…. hard decision… not sure if i want to just let that extra 400ish lumens go and just get the nichia or the max 12000 lumen from xp-g3

Lexel
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The Nichia is tested around 9000 lumens and high CRI, lovely light color

Tally-ho
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Lexel wrote:
The Nichia is tested around 9000 lumens and high CRI, lovely light color

LINK to maukka’s test
CRI Ra : 92
CRI R9 : 69

joechina
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As a rule of thump: You can only detect a difference over 10 percent if the same lamps are side by side. In normal usage it’s even more.
12000 × 10% = 1200
The Nichia can be 1200lm “darker” before you see differnces.
For me it would be a no-brainer. Go high CRI.

hIKARInoob
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Lexel wrote:
The Nichia is tested around 9000 lumens and high CRI, lovely light color

Honestly that beamshot of the building is just stunning. Not the sheer output, but the tint is so nicely captured (at least on my screen). To me it is definitely a perfect picture of what a nice tint should result into. And this has nothing to do, if I’m not mistaken, with high CRI.

yuhsin91123
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I’ve been hearing the awesome tints from Nichia in their eyes but tested to be around 9000 lumens… I really wish someone near me has both 219C and XpP-G3 so I can make my decision easier lol. Does anyone know the tested lumens on the XP-G3?

I have a Haikelite MT03 and I know MT03 is more of a flood light and MF01 is a bit more throwly. Just wondering if I use them side by side would I able to have the “Holy Shhh this MF01 Nichia is bright…”

I’m pretty new to the flashlight world and as many others out there…. More lumens= better… But after reading so many reviews and forums, I found lots of people go for the high CRI. So can someone explain to me the advantage of having either models?

In the beginning I had my mind set on the XP-G3 because it’s brighter and according to videos they look pretty good to me. Now I’m seeing people are loving the high CRI Nichia and i want one too… But I also want high lumens… (I know the mode can only run at a short burst)…. So somebody give me a hand if if I’m only picking one.. Thanks

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