Led4power.com : LD-4 CC linear drivers, ILC-0/1 illuminated tailcaps, optics, MOSX, copper DTP MCPCBs...

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led4power
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Hi emarkd,

thank you for this short review/how-to post!

Dot close to LED is ANODE mark, I forgot to add this note in description,just added it on WEB page.

 

Bubbling solder mask: I soldered FET and NTC with lead-free solder(40C higher melting temperature compared to Pb solder) without any problems. It seems temperature was too high for too long, and you can see in your second MCPCB picture that what used to be white silkscreen in now brown-almost invisible, that is a 100% sign temperature was way too hot.White silkscreen should stay white after soldering, even if it becomes yellowish, temperature was still too high.

I use hot plate with low thermal mass, and this gives me best soldering results. If you are going to order in the future, just send me PM before that, I will put some MCPCBs extra.

 

On LD-B4 "negative" is kinda unique, it's basically only shunt resistor between GND ring and wire, so resistance is indeed close to short.

To prevent potential shorts between wires and retaining rings, use "flush cut" type of pliers, I use Piergiacomi TR-30 pliers and they can cut very low, after cutting if leaves only 0.2-0.3mm tall solder joint.

http://www.piergiacomi.com/piergiacomi/en/products/hand-tools/285-taglio-raso-dettaglio.html#TR30

 

 

 

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Also added installation instructions for ILC-1 on my web:

Installation instructions:
  • Unscrew flashlight tailcap and remove all original parts (tailcap button,washer,pcb with switch, retaining ring)
  • If not installed, solder spring on ILC-1 bottom side
  • Remove kapton tape from ILC-1 brass ring (protection from oxidation)
  • Insert translucent tailcap button into tailcap
  • Insert ILC-1 module
  • Screw original retaining ring back
emarkd
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Thanks for the input Neven. I agree it looks like I overheated my mcpcb. I don’t have any “good” equipment for reflow and just do it on my stovetop. Hard to regulate that. And while I do have a set of those “flush-cut” side cutters, they’re pretty old and dull and don’t bite like they used to. May be time to replace those. Anyway, my post was intended to give folks coming after me a few things to look out for, learn from my mistakes. Smile This driver setup is a really really good product and you should be proud of it.

I really do appreciate you offering to send me a new mcpcb even though the damage to mine is my own fault. That’s very nice of you and really good customer service. Its not necessary though. I will be ordering more from you in the next couple of days, once I plan out a few more builds using your parts, and can just toss an extra board in my order. That’s one of the cheaper lessons I’ve learned working on elecrtronics. Smile I would like to be able to order some of those single-emitter boards though. Any chance you’d be adding those to your web store anytime soon?


Mark

led4power
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I will add single LED boards within 1-2day.

 

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I do not understand,
If “2-12Amps possible by Adjusting current in UI “

Why are there options for 3, 6, 9 and 12Amps version?

Sorry for my poor english.

emarkd
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steel_1024 wrote:
I do not understand,
If “2-12Amps possible by Adjusting current in UI “

Why are there options for 3, 6, 9 and 12Amps version?

That confused me at first too. A single driver can’t go 2-12. There’s a 2-3 amp version, or 4-6 amps, or 7-9 amps, or 8-12. So if you order the 12 amp driver, it’ll only go “down” to 8, etc.

There’s a full chart on page 4 of these datasheet, here: https://led4power.com/download/4172/

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2-12Amps is possible with LD-x4 series, not from single driver; 3A version is adjustable from 2A-3A, 6A from 4A-6A, 9A from 7A-9A, 12A from 8A-12A.

 

steel_1024
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OK, I see

I have Ordered, 12A for 4XP, 9A for 3XP
Does it fit?

ILC-1 illuminated tailcap 480uA
How much brightness is there?(about)

Sorry for my poor english.

emarkd
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steel_1024 wrote:
OK, I see

I have Ordered, 12A for 4XP, 9A for 3XP
Does it fit?

ILC-1 illuminated tailcap 480uA
How much brightness is there?(about)

Not sure about your driver question, but I can try on your second. I ordered a white tail at 240uA and find it way too bright. Its easily visible during the day and uncomfortable to look at in the dark. So I’ll be opening mine back up to dim it down considerably. No big deal, I expected to do a bit of tuning.

That said, this is a really personal issue and we don’t all like the same brightness. I’m sure there are folks who would prefer this one just like it is, nice and bright.

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I'm not sure what do you mean by "does it fit"?

You ordered blue color, I just did little test, I have 400uA blue tailcap C8, it's still visible at 1000lux room illuminance if you look at it.

 

steel_1024
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OK

I wish change “dim” to 120uA.

“does it fit”?
Suitable? appropriate? Good choice?
Sorry for my poor english again.

It does not matter.
about driver, keep 12A & 9A.

Sorry for my poor english.

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OK, I will set 120uA.

12A with 4XP,and 9A with 3XP  is 3A per LED, which is pretty common on BLF.

 

 

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One customer is asking does ILC-1 fit into BLF A6/Astrolux S1 tailcap, since I don't have any of those, does anyone know what is washer diameter? Is button diameter 16mm, or 14mm?

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14mm

Need a vlogger for machine accessories reviews

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I tried it in my A6. Does not fit. The diameter of the switch is just barely too wide to drop down in there. The “can” on the outside makes it a really nice all-in-one drop-in piece but it also makes it slightly wider, too wide for the A6.

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I'm considering to make Eagle eye X6 version of ILC-1(17mm diameter,14mm button), A6/S1 seem to have identical tailcap as EE X6 then.

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If not too late, please do not solder FET and thermistor on MOSLED MCPCB.

Sorry for my poor english.

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OK, do you want one extra MCPCB as compensation for extra 1€ paid?

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led4power wrote:

I’m considering to make Eagle eye X6 version of ILC-1(17mm diameter,14mm button), A6/S1 seem to have identical tailcap as EE X6 then.

I’m not home to check at the moment but I have both of those lights. I’ll check this afternoon and let you know.

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led4power wrote:

OK, do you want one extra MCPCB as compensation for extra 1€ paid?

Yes, Thank you.

Sorry for my poor english.

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emarkd wrote:
led4power wrote:

I’m considering to make Eagle eye X6 version of ILC-1(17mm diameter,14mm button), A6/S1 seem to have identical tailcap as EE X6 then.

I’m not home to check at the moment but I have both of those lights. I’ll check this afternoon and let you know.

Yes, looks to me like a part that fits the A6 would fit the EE X6 as well. That would be a very nice part to have available.

Also I have a question. I’ve been poking at my lighted tailcap module Smile I pulled off the LEDs of one channel and swapped them for another color, trying to achieve a two-color alternating look. Now I have a strange behavior. When I first put power to the tailcap, the original white channel flashes quickly then goes back out while my new orange channel stays on all the time. What would cause that? Is there a fix?

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Could you check tailcap current? Which resistor values you put on each channel? Also please check voltage across each resistor, it should be 0.1V. No blinks should occur.

There are some components on bottom(inner) side of top PCB, and they are soldered with lower temp lead free solder (~145C), top side is soldered with normal lead free solder (~217C).

There is a possibility of de-soldering components on bottom side if you use hot air on top side,but if ILC-1 is still, those components would remain in place because of solder cohesion force. For resistor change better is to use normal iron, not just because of bottom side components, but because of Omten switch which is close to resistors and it's made of plastic that doesn't like temperatures >120C.

 

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I did it by hand with an iron. I learned my lesson about pointing hot air at black plastic switches a couple of years ago, but that’s a different story Smile

I stripped the #1 channel completely and built it back using 4 orange LEDs and a 33 ohm resistor. That was just a guess based on the fact that these things are a lot dimmer than the white ones you had on there, but to be honest they’re still really dim and I’d like to lower that value even more if its possible. The #2 channel still has the white ones, but I did raise its resistor to a 330 ohm since they’re brighter than I wanted. I tested it with the original (was it 89 ohm) resistor in place first and when it flashed off I thought I’d lower the draw a bit and re-test since the white was too bright to start with. No change, it behaves the same with both values in the circuit. I never measured the draw before the resistor change, but right now its 3.34 mA @ 4v.

One development: it only does the flashy thing with the driver in the circuit. If I bypass the driver or use my bench power supply both channels work as intended. 3.34 mA sounds like a lot since your specs say up to 600 uA. Is it too much? Are my orange LEDs just too inefficient?

EDIT: Just because I can’t leave things alone, I pulled the resistor off of channel 1 and just left it open to test. Obviously only channel 2 works, so only the 4 white LEDs are powered, but tailcap current dropped to 300 uA and no more flashing problems. So I guess I’ve answered my own question — too much current draw the way I had it set up. But I’d still love to hear why it does that, just for my own curiosity.

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33Ohm resistor? That is to low, total current will be too high.

You have equation in datasheet, and also under specifications "Max. recommended current: 600uA total (channel1 + channel2)"

Current can be actually up to ~1mA by design (that would be something like "absolute maximum rating"), but I'm always conservative about max. spec and I always leave some safety margin for reliability reasons.

Over that current weird things can occur.

Original resistor definitely wasn't 89Ohm,it was ~825 Ohm.

If you want orange-white combo, and since orange is something like 5 times dimmer, set orange channel 500uA (200Ohm - resistor set doesn't contain resistors lower than 330Ohm,but you can stack two 412Ohm), and try adjust white first to 100uA (1Kohm). For this adjustment a multiturn potentiometer temporally connected to channel would be best to find out best current/resistance.

 

 

 

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led4power wrote:

33Ohm resistor? That is to low, total current will be too high.


You have equation in datasheet, and also under specifications “Max. recommended current: 600uA total (channel1 + channel2)”


Current can be actually up to ~1mA by design (that would be something like “absolute maximum rating”), but I’m always conservative about max. spec and I always leave some safety margin for reliability reasons.


Over that current weird things can occur.


Original resistor definitely wasn’t 89Ohm,it was ~825 Ohm.


If you want orange-white combo, and since orange is something like 5 times dimmer, set orange channel 500uA (200Ohm – resistor set doesn’t contain resistors lower than 330Ohm,but you can stack two 412Ohm), and try adjust white first to 100uA (1Kohm). For this adjustment a multiturn potentiometer temporally connected to channel would be best to find out best current/resistance.

Yeah its very possible that I misread the numbers on the original resistors. Those things are tiny! Smile

Thanks for the advice on the resistor values. I’ll sit down this evening and give those a try. I really appreciate your help.

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So after much experimentation I decided that my orange 0603 LEDs just aren’t going to work in here. Mine are just too inefficient. Just driving them to a reasonable level by themselves passes that 1 mA line. Maybe I can source some better ones, I don’t know. So instead I pulled those back out and dropped some red ones on the board. And it works! I wound up with 1kOhm on the white channel and 165 ohms (2×330 stacked) on the red channel, for a combined tailcap draw of ~710 uA.

Not the best picture but maybe you get the idea:

Thanks again to Neven for all your help. I’ll definitely be ordering more of these parts in the next few days. Hopefully you can get single-emitter mosled boards up and eventually smaller tailcaps for the A6/X6 sized lights as well.

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Actually strike what I said above, I’ve already changed it. Too pink for me, on this orange host. Its now a red channel at 230 ohm (330 + 750) and a yellow channel at 200 ohms (330 + 510), with a combined tailcap draw of 940 uA. I like this a lot better, since the red and yellow kinda “blend” to make an nice orange-ish color.

I really like this tailcap. The 4×2 looks great I think (although I really like the 3×2 too) and the LVP option just pushes it over the top. I’ve killed cells in my rarely-used lights with the “normal” lighted tailcaps, completely dead and sent off to recycling. Sad No worries with this one, and I love that.

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Awesome mod there for the ILC stuff, emarkd!
Wish someday I can order this piece and Neven can do the dual color, too. LOL.
Waiting for the multi voltage version of this new LD4 driver.

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Very nice look there! I’m glad it worked out for you!

Reason is not automatic. Those who deny it cannot be conquered by it. Do not count on them. Leave them alone.
-Ayn Rand

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Oh THIS would be perfect for my MokeGane Sinner 18350! Horrible time to have the checkbook so low… (scrambling)

Dale

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