Led4power.com : LD-4 CC linear drivers, ILC-0/1 illuminated tailcaps, optics, MOSX, copper DTP MCPCBs...

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1stein
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led4power wrote:

1stein wrote:
Neven, still waiting for your LH351Ds 4000K 90 CRI. What’s the forecast? Is there a point in waiting longer or I should look for something diffrent?

I doon’t plan to stock that LED anymore, unless I find really good tint, but chance for that is close to zero based on my experience. LH35D is really nice LED overall, but it’s not the best at anything (CRI,output,tint, overdriving…) so it’s not very interesting for flashlight modders.

I see, thank you for honest answer, appreciate a lot. I was very curious how it works dedomed, furtunatelly I have 2 spare left Crazy (but not much room for fails)

contactcr
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When you slice the dome close it falls almost exactly on BBL or slightly under. With a lot of current it doesn’t shift much either. Only problem is output takes a decent hit and some flat LEDs are harder to focus

1stein
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contactcr wrote:
When you slice the dome close it falls almost exactly on BBL or slightly under. With a lot of current it doesn’t shift much either. Only problem is output takes a decent hit and some flat LEDs are harder to focus

Thanks for hint. Is the LH351 dome hard? Heating up then slicing works good for this one?

djozz
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1stein wrote:
contactcr wrote:
When you slice the dome close it falls almost exactly on BBL or slightly under. With a lot of current it doesn’t shift much either. Only problem is output takes a decent hit and some flat LEDs are harder to focus

Thanks for hint. Is the LH351 dome hard? Heating up then slicing works good for this one?


My way is without heating: I have a series of 4 washers that fit between the led and the solder pads of the ledwires. They go from thick to thin, with the thinnests one the correct height to slice just above the phosfor. I use an oldschool two-sided Wilkinson razorblade to slice layers off the dome. I learned how to keep the blade straight while cutting and that for the last slice the angle that the blade makes makes a difference. Also the thickness of the solder layer is a factor involved in where the final cut ends, I try to seat the led as flat on the board as possible to get the same height all the time. Try practising on a wasted led.
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Sounds like it will be added to my kit Smile

1stein
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Very precious hints. Appreciate a lot Beer

contactcr
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I do the same as djozz only with 2 or 3 washers. If you try it with just one the edge of the dome will likely tear off at the end of the cut. As djozz mentioned the solder height is a factor if you want a close cut but probably even more important is to try to use the same type of MCPCB each time. I have a 20mm one I use that has never had solder on the LED +/- pads so the washer sits flat/the same way every time.

1stein
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contactcr wrote:
I do the same as djozz only with 2 or 3 washers. If you try it with just one the edge of the dome will likely tear off at the end of the cut.

Actually it’s good to know others experience similar problems, I was even thinking of getting something thinner than Wilkinson razor, but the trick with double / triple washer is definitely worth trying. Many thanks.

DavidEF
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1stein wrote:
contactcr wrote:
I do the same as djozz only with 2 or 3 washers. If you try it with just one the edge of the dome will likely tear off at the end of the cut.

Actually it’s good to know others experience similar problems, I was even thinking of getting something thinner than Wilkinson razor, but the trick with double / triple washer is definitely worth trying. Many thanks.


I’m not sure everyone understood what djozz was saying. I think he’s saying he uses a thick washer to slice first, then a slightly thinner one to slice a bit more, then a thinner one again, then the thinnest one gets the last slice to be the right height.

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

KevinZA1988
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Neven,

Do you know whats the tint bin of your 3000K Luxeon V2’s? On the datasheet there is 5A, 5B, 5C, 5D, 3U, 3L in 2700K, 3000K, 3500K.

BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L2, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

led4power
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I don't know exact tint bin, but I've never seen Lumileds LEDs available in narrow tint bin range,they are only available as 3 or 5-step MacAdam ellipse.

KevinZA1988
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Thank you

BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L2, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

1stein
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DavidEF wrote:
I’m not sure everyone understood what djozz was saying. I think he’s saying he uses a thick washer to slice first, then a slightly thinner one to slice a bit more, then a thinner one again, then the thinnest one gets the last slice to be the right height.

Thanks for pointing it, now it’s crystal clear.

djozz
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1stein wrote:
DavidEF wrote:
I’m not sure everyone understood what djozz was saying. I think he’s saying he uses a thick washer to slice first, then a slightly thinner one to slice a bit more, then a thinner one again, then the thinnest one gets the last slice to be the right height.

Thanks for pointing it, now it’s crystal clear.

Thumbs Up I think that language to describe technical procedures is the most challenging type, perhaps even for native speakers.
alberto7
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I see clearance sale in some copper mcpcb DTP, ther will be replaced or what is the reason?

led4power
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They will be replaced by new design,fully gold plated this time, so price will be a little bit higher (similar to 3030 DTPs). Existing PCBs at reduced price will be available until stock is exhausted.

 

KevinZA1988
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Hi Neven,

Will you also be making a 5050 16mm DTP MCPCB?

BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L2, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

led4power
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I don't plan to have 5050 pcbs anymore, only two popular LEDs use them these days: SST-40 and XHP50.2, and I don't stock any of those, so it doesn't make too much sense to have pcbs and no LEDs.

Luxeon V is IHMO better LED overall than SST-40 so I don't want to stock two very similar LEDs, XHP50.2 has ugly beam tint - don't want to stock those either for this reason.

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It makes sense… Thanks

BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L2, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

contactcr
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LD-B4-20 ETA?

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led4power wrote:
Luxeon V is IHMO better LED overall than SST-40

Someone gets it! Only passable excuse IMO for sst40 is dedomed.

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

led4power
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contactcr wrote:
LD-B4-20 ETA?

10-15days, I'm waiting for some test rig pcbs.

contactcr
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If anyone was interested in the L4P quad spacer for the X6 you might find this useful:

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contactcr wrote:
If anyone was interested in the L4P quad spacer for the X6 you might find this useful:

Damn it, I may just have to build one now Blushing

Question though, I haven’t been able to find the answer and haven’t built a triple yet so forgive me if this seems like a simple/noob question… I see the L4P triple spacer has a bolt and a spacer whereas others, such as kiriba-ru’s, just have the spacer. Why is that and is there a practical difference? I’ve gone through a number of X6 triple/quad build posts (including yours) but am still struggling to get my head around the role the bolt plays.

contactcr
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The bolt keeps the spacer from spinning when you screw the bezel and it also ensures good thermal path from spacer to body.

KevinZA1988
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I measured the newer batch Luxeon V with a Vf of 3.324V 6A, compared to the 1st batch with a Vf of 3.484V 6A.

BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L2, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

hodor
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contactcr wrote:
The bolt keeps the spacer from spinning when you screw the bezel and it also ensures good thermal path from spacer to body.

Still confused Blushing

What does the bolt rest against and what stops the bolt from gradually (un)threading on the spacer?

contactcr
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You only drill the X6 shelf enough to fit the bolt so head of the bolt presses on the bottom of LED shelf. The inside of the spacer is threaded so it grabs onto that and pulls spacer toward top of LED shelf

led4power
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With hollow bolt method assembly is much easier because once you install spacer with bolt and tighten it, spacer cannot move or spin because clamping force is big which is also good for thermal transfer between spacer and body.  After that you can easily install mcpcb and driver.

With traditional spacer this is more complicated/messy since everything is loose and can move - source of clamping force is bezel (force "travels" through optics) - not optimal IHMO.

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Hello!
I bought some of the last ld-b4hv, but I have a problem with the gate solder pad coming off the pcb. Happened on two different driver boards while I was soldering.

Figured I could solder the wire on top of the resistanse in the photo because it looks like they are connected (measured for continuity on a third driver board which I have not done anything to yet).

https://photos.app.goo.gl/XZFmWbA7ah21REVc7

Then something strange happened.

I’m using the mosx board with FET. When I measure for continuity without wires attached I have connection through the LED between + and “m” and no connection between + and -

https://photos.app.goo.gl/rH8gkK6qMFL68qeK8

As soon as I connect the gate to the mosx the FET is shorted out and I have connection between + and – even when the FET is not energized.

What is going on. Is my point for gate on the driver wrong?

The third picture I have attached (this is something led4power posted earlier in the thread) – why is there a wire on the m pad ?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/3Wrcuww2FqM647Rb9

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