[SALE] lighted TIR boards, D4, D4S, ROT66, MF01 multicolored with low battery waning and LVP

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Lexel
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Skylight wrote:
Would the aux led PCB still fit if I did the 2S mod on the MF01 MCPCB? Meaning cutting some traces and connecting them to run on 6V.

If you use relative thin insulated wires like Teflon or thin silicone yes, I already did it with 0.35mm2 wires that gave less than 1mm dianeter

Skylight
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Lexel wrote:
Skylight wrote:
Would the aux led PCB still fit if I did the 2S mod on the MF01 MCPCB? Meaning cutting some traces and connecting them to run on 6V.

If you use relative thin insulated wires like Teflon or thin silicone yes, I already did it with 0.35mm2 wires that gave less than 1mm dianeter

Isn’t that to thin for enough current? Can I also use thin copper strips or would that risk to short something?

Lexel
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Skylight wrote:
Lexel wrote:
Skylight wrote:
Would the aux led PCB still fit if I did the 2S mod on the MF01 MCPCB? Meaning cutting some traces and connecting them to run on 6V.

If you use relative thin insulated wires like Teflon or thin silicone yes, I already did it with 0.35mm2 wires that gave less than 1mm dianeter

Isn’t that to thin for enough current? Can I also use thin copper strips or would that risk to short something?

Each 0.35mm² conducts only a portion of the current and is a lot more than the copper traces on the MCPCB used
Connections:

you have to avoid crossovers of them as well, you can try thicker but no guarantee it will fit
in this picture one red supply is not connected to the middle, that would need to go also to the center

You can’t do an overkill like here

Skylight
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Thank you for the explanation, Lexel. I will see if I can get a new 2S MCPCB from Mateminco to make things easier. The aux board might fit better then.

I’m planning to convert a Convoy L6 to a MF01S… Big Smile

Lexel
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Skylight wrote:
Thank you for the explanation, Lexel. I will see if I can get a new 2S MCPCB from Mateminco to make things easier. The aux board might fit better then.

I’m planning to convert a Convoy L6 to a MF01S… Big Smile

I think a MCPCB is on BG for sale ridiculous expensive, its v2 6S so does not fit
I have here 1 2S/9P MCPCB stencil and emitters and 8 3S/6P (the only ones made before decision went to DD driver)

as I wrote I converted one from v2 to v3 with Aux board on top

ttylamg
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does anyone (or lexel) have d4 instruction to remove the star or mcpcb so i can get to constant ground? I am trying to do a always on aux (already have in hand from lexel) with no firmware mod desired.

I’ve bridged the + and L with bare wire it sits just over the + from mcpcb, so that saves me one solder point. I just need to find the easiest location /way to get ground to aux board ground now.

Arriving soon C8+ (osram mod) -
FT03 (pending repair) - Chaselight (hack dedome) - FW3A (Pending repair) - Sofirn C8T - Emissar D4 (W aux TIR) - Convoy S2+ - Sipik (rip) - Solarforce L2
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JasonWW
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ttylamg wrote:
does anyone (or lexel) have d4 instruction to remove the star or mcpcb so i can get to constant ground? I am trying to do a always on aux (already have in hand from lexel) with no firmware mod desired.

I’ve bridged the + and L with bare wire it sits just over the + from mcpcb, so that saves me one solder point. I just need to find the easiest location /way to get ground to aux board ground now.


I would suggest run the ground wire down to driver and attach at the ground point the switch uses. There may be other ground points on the driver (around edge), just verify it before attaching.

I’m not familiar with D4 driver layout. Are the main led wire holes big enough for a second skinny wire?

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ttylamg
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good point, it looks like i might have a very tight fit if I want to squeeze anything more through, and the very precise factory soldering might be difficult to put back. I just don’t know how to get to the back side (even if i could i can’t work with it unless i remove it). Can I simply drill holes through here to reach good grounding?

D4

Arriving soon C8+ (osram mod) -
FT03 (pending repair) - Chaselight (hack dedome) - FW3A (Pending repair) - Sofirn C8T - Emissar D4 (W aux TIR) - Convoy S2+ - Sipik (rip) - Solarforce L2
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JasonWW
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Dude, you have screws right there. They both thread down into the head and are grounded. Take your negative wire and strip the end about 3/8 and make a loop. Put the loop on top of that fiber washer on the top so the screw head squishes the wire. That will ground it out. If the wire strands are thin there should be no way they will get pushed through that washer. I suggest a loop so you get even pressure all the way around the screw head.

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Lexel
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If I remember correctly the D4 driver sits on an anodized rim and threads are anodized as well
Its very likely even the screws have no ground

JasonWW
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I think this is the newer version D4 head that ttylamg has.


Pic from Beastlykings.

It does look like the head was anodized and then they machined the flat shelf area. This is why the divots around the screw holes are dark. I would check if the screws are grounded. Maybe the threads cut through a bit and are touching bare metal.

One thing you might try is scrape off the anodizing between the head and the mcpcb, then take the wire end, strip it, ball it up and try to wedge it against the bare metal between the head and the mcpcb. If you loosen those anti rotation screws you might be able to move the mcpcb to one side, push the bare wire into the gap and then put the screws back in which should squeeze the wire and hold it securely into place.

Short of that, you might have to bite the bullet and remove the driver so that you can solder it into place.

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ttylamg
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That was fun… quite an adventure

Success!

Arriving soon C8+ (osram mod) -
FT03 (pending repair) - Chaselight (hack dedome) - FW3A (Pending repair) - Sofirn C8T - Emissar D4 (W aux TIR) - Convoy S2+ - Sipik (rip) - Solarforce L2
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JasonWW
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ttylamg wrote:
That was fun… quite an adventure

You not gonna say how you got ground connected? We are in suspense. Big Smile

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ttylamg
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Oh, sure I will be happy to share. So I scraped the thread from body tube to head like a lot, and for extra assurance I penciled the head ground contact from mcpcb to head as well. Tested scraping a bit of hidden area on head inside near the lens and put it all back together to make sure it was reading 3.7 red lead and head. Then I started scraping head near the lens post closest to aux -. Ran a short lead from aux – to it. (You can see how I did the red and+ and L in earlier post)

This sounded easy but in reality it took a lot of trial and scraping. I also found the star near the lens post was bare. When I put the – lead there it would accidentally complete and bypass the control circuit and light the flashlight! I almost just solder it without testing it. That would’ve sucked. At the end I scraped it a bit higher and didn’t solder the aux board to anything (except the leads). The sequence of this mattered a lot as there were many small things I’ve done wrong and redo. If anyone wants a detailed instruction on how to do this exactly I can re-write this entire post to be clear.

Arriving soon C8+ (osram mod) -
FT03 (pending repair) - Chaselight (hack dedome) - FW3A (Pending repair) - Sofirn C8T - Emissar D4 (W aux TIR) - Convoy S2+ - Sipik (rip) - Solarforce L2
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JasonWW
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So both screws were insulated from ground?

I’m still not sure where you found the ground, near your red arrows? Does the optic leg squish the wire end down to the bare shelf?

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ttylamg
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i didn’t use the screws to ground, and didn’t even reinstall one of them since it was touching an aux led. I also suspect they might not be grounded anyway. I found the head housing completely isolated. I scraped the heck out of the threads where the body meet the head, testing multiple times to finally get grounding to the head (i scrapped else where near the top), then scrapped roughly where i drew the red arrow for the aux ground. You need to be careful not to do it too low, as I said the star is bare near there too. You don’t want to end up grounding the star.

the optic leg doesn’t squish the wire (I originally had it routed that way, but it was shorting the star), I end up just having it get pinched by the aux board to touch the head housing. If this is not clear I can do some sketches showing what i mean after the weekend.

Arriving soon C8+ (osram mod) -
FT03 (pending repair) - Chaselight (hack dedome) - FW3A (Pending repair) - Sofirn C8T - Emissar D4 (W aux TIR) - Convoy S2+ - Sipik (rip) - Solarforce L2
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JasonWW
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Does the D4 have a one piece head or a threaded in pill?

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Lexel
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JasonWW wrote:
Does the D4 have a one piece head or a threaded in pill?

1 piece head

driver is kind of press fit in
I have destroyed on some parts on drivers the diode or resistor with a bolt hammering the PCB out through the middle hole
replacing them fix the driver easily

ttylamg
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See, that’s the beauty. I wouldn’t know, because I didn’t remove it. The mcpcb toward the + terminal had nothing to holding it down, and I wouldn’t know how it would come out

Arriving soon C8+ (osram mod) -
FT03 (pending repair) - Chaselight (hack dedome) - FW3A (Pending repair) - Sofirn C8T - Emissar D4 (W aux TIR) - Convoy S2+ - Sipik (rip) - Solarforce L2
------------------------------------
Several laser pointers
————————————
Several pocket knifes

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