Nichia 219B 4500k D220 9080 CRI Emitter output test by Texas_Ace; Amazing tint and CRI! Output is what you would expect.

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Texas_Ace
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Nichia 219B 4500k D220 9080 CRI Emitter output test by Texas_Ace; Amazing tint and CRI! Output is what you would expect.

Ok, like normal, tests done the same as all my others.

These are the 219B 9080 CRI (basically the highest CRI you can get in a high powered LED). These are not meant as output monsters but as tint beauty queens. I tossed one on the bench just for giggles.

The tint is really great, on the rosy side for sure but the CRI really makes colors pop. I have not put one in a flashlight yet so can’t comment too much on it.

Output is pretty run of the mill for a 219B, pretty good for such a high CRI LED actually.

Click images for larger version:

Compared to a 9050 CRI 219C:

Jerommel
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Hmmm…
Not made for a lighthouse.. Wink

Q

mattlward
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Not intended to be a lighthouse. The 9050 219b’s are so wonderful, these must be amazing!

EDC rotation:
Convoy S2+, 6*7135, XM-L2 3D, 10 degree TIR, PilotDog lighted tailcap.
Convoy S2+, H17F, XM-L2 4C, lighted tailcap
Zebralight SC52w-L2
Zebralight SC62w
Olight S1A
Olight S1R

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mattlward wrote:
Not intended to be a lighthouse. The 9050 219b’s are so wonderful, these must be amazing!

Hope so, i ordered 5 of them. Smile

But a triple on 9× 7135 (3.15 Amperes) will still do a little over 1000 Lumen (before the optics).

Q

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thanks Texas

Yuji Photon’s 5600/3200.
Sofirm C01’s Yuji 5600/3200 Twisty’s
Nitecore MT06MD 219B
Zebralight SC64c 219B 9080
Armytec Wizard Pro E21A 6500
AAA Optisolis 6500 hcri
Emisar D1S Oslon Flat White
Zebralight H502pr Photo Red

hIKARInoob
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Seriously, since we don’t perceive light intensity linearly anyway I care less about max output. Tint and high CRI is what please our brains via our eyes every second we use our lights…

HCRI9080
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thanks Texas

Yuji Photon’s 5600/3200.
Sofirm C01’s Yuji 5600/3200 Twisty’s
Nitecore MT06MD 219B
Zebralight SC64c 219B 9080
Armytec Wizard Pro E21A 6500
AAA Optisolis 6500 hcri
Emisar D1S Oslon Flat White
Zebralight H502pr Photo Red

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Thanks for the test TA! So 700lm @ 4 amps is the max. Not bad at all, really…

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Nice work TA. Thanks. Thumbs Up

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Texas_Ace
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I just put 7 of the 219B 9080 LED’s into a SRK with the stock non-DTP mcpcb.

I can legitimately say that I am blown away by the tint of these! I have seen quite a few LED’s and this by FAR blows them all away.

These are the whitest, purest, most gorgeous LED’s I have ever seen! Keep in mind that over half of my lights are 90+ CRI.

Even compared to all my 219B 9050’s I have, these have no noticeable tint shift either green or red. Just pure amazing white. All my other 219b’s have a slight shift to either the green or rosy side.

I was worried when I saw these outside of a reflector when on the bench that they would be too rosy but seems it was just an effect of having tested the 319A right before it and that screwing my frame of reference.

Now I will see what it looks like tonight to get a better idea but at this point I am in love, I just wish that they had higher output.

A 219C 9080 would be perfect, if only they could put the Phosphor from the 219B 9080 on the 219C die it would be the perfect LED for all your CRI needs. Hmmm, maybe they would be open to a special run of these clemence?

Only downside is the low output but in triples and quads it is perfect. An M34 or M43 would be amazing with these.

Now on the down side, DO NOT use these with non-DTP mcpcb’s. I killed 3 of the 7 LED’s I installed in the SRK. I am not sure if it is a mismatch in the Vf or just not being able to get rid of the heat. Either way 4 are nearly dead and released magic smoke. I now have to run the light with only 1 laptop pull cell installed to limit current.

Later I might indeed build a M34 with these.

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Texas_Ace wrote:
I can legitimately say that I am blown away by the tint of these!

I hope you post some photos of your hand with various LEDs so I can see what you are talking about

here are a couple of examples of what I mean:

twistedraven;5063099 wrote:

Texas_Ace
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I tried to get some good beamshots at one point but gave up after a few days of messing around turned up results that were far too inconsistent and almost useless.

The overall beam is hard enough to get but the tint is another matter entirely. I could never get something that showed the tint accurately without needing me to edit it by eye to get it to look right. In which case it was not accurate but simply as good as my editing could get it.

Too much variance for me so I elected to skip beamshots all together. I tend to get a bit carried away with details like this lol.

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Texas_Ace wrote:
I tried to get some good beamshots at one point but gave up after a few days of messing around turned up results that were far too inconsistent and almost useless.

I agree it is difficult to get photos of a single beam, that matches what our eyes see, and like you I have zero interest in massaging an image.

Ive come up with some techniques that work with my iPhone, I do not edit or adjust anything.

so if you care to venture into some experiments here are a couple of suggestions

1. Beamshots of 3 lights side by side shooting at a folded piece of printer paper

very useful for comparing beams. one of the 3 lights should be cooler than the others, it fools the phone into setting itself to that “white balance”, so you can tell relative tint of the other two lights

examples:
2 beams does not work well: (light on left is 3000k XPG, light on right is N219b 4000k)

3 beams seems to be the sweet spot (same nichia, but in the middle now, light on right is an N219b in an Astrolux M03 that I guesstimate is over 5000k.. Im just using it pull the white balance so the other two lights tints look more like what I see with my eyes)

2. Handshots

useful in comparing CRI
still just a cellphone pic, no white balance adjustments of any kind
this is a N219c 4000k (Manker Lad)

this is the N219b 4500k in my Copper Worm

this is the N219b in my Astrolux M03

fwiw, here is my Astrolux M01, M02, M03, all N219b, you can see a wide variation

you can see the 219c is obviously more yellow tinted than the 219b in the above hand shots

Im very interested in seeing your comparison beams of the 219c and 219b LEDs that you have

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If I ever could get the $$ for a spectrometer, I’d totally be posting nice spectral charts with CRI, TM-30, etc…

Anyone want to front me a few thousand? Smile

That’s a gorgeous LED. I would like to go put that in a very well diffused host for some work.

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Check out the GB thread for these, the spectral results were posted earlier today.

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I just noticed that both 219B and 219C exceed the rated lumen output
- 219C 9050 specced 240lm 700mA; Tex's test: ~255lm 700mA
- 219B 9080 specced 220lm 700mA; Tex's test: ~230lm 700mA

It’s a good thing

Texas_Ace
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clemence wrote:
I just noticed that both 219B and 219C exceed the rated lumen output
- 219C 9050 specced 240lm 700mA; Tex's test: ~255lm 700mA
- 219B 9080 specced 220lm 700mA; Tex's test: ~230lm 700mA

It’s a good thing

Yes, I think the D240 rated emitters are actually D260, the spec sheet says they exist.

The D220 are technically within the margin of error for a D220 IIRC but also keep in mind my sphere is not perfect, just as good as I can get it.

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Hmm, yes, don’t trust our BLF calibrations. The limited chance I had sofar to compare different people’s calibrations, while I expected maybe 4 or 5%, it was more like 20 to 25%. A humbling find!!

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clemence wrote:
This might come in handy: “http://www.nichia.co.jp/en/product/sled.html”:http://www.nichia.co.jp/...

Those were mentioned before but it was guesstimated they would be hundreds of dollars at the cheapest.

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Let me check it. If it’s not that expensive, I might buy it. So you guys can passaround it to calibrate each sphere

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I have been drooling over those when they came out last year

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Calibrated components always costs at least an arm and a leg… Shocked

Aloha, Uli

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clemence wrote:
Let me check it. If it’s not that expensive, I might buy it. So you guys can passaround it to calibrate each sphere

Unfortunately they do not solve the spectral errors of our luxmeters Sad , but they give a better absolute output reference than a couple of ANSI-rated flashlights.
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Im planning buy some of this leds (when available) and build a single and a triple.

Anyone know whats the best way to proceded in DD with this led?

I know that the best is to stay around 3-3,75 Amps. Max 4. So… 10 to 12 amps in triple.

So, whats the best configuration for stay in this margen at 10-11-12 amps?

For wire i think that 22awg its the way (not 20awg)
For driver spring i think that steel (default convoy) without bypass.
For tailcap spring i think that steel (default convoy) without bypass.

And finally for the cell ncr18650ga? 30q will be too much? vtc6?

Any info?

Open to opinions Wink

Texas_Ace
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I built a triple with these awhile back and just did it like any other triple. I think I used 22awg. I have no issues with it over driving the LED’s since the Vf on them is pretty high.

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Texas_Ace wrote:
I built a triple with these awhile back and just did it like any other triple. I think I used 22awg. I have no issues with it over driving the LED’s since the Vf on them is pretty high.

Hi, i have some question
you measured the AMPS at max?
You bypass or not bypass the springs?
Cell?

Thanks for your help! Smile

Texas_Ace
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Yeah, I forgot what the messured amps were but they were not anything to worry about, around 10 amps IIRC. I generally use GA’s in my personal lights but I generally test with 30Q. Either way it should not be an issue with a triple. Even if they are overdriven some it will not hurt then and it will quickly drop as the battery drains.

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Where can these LEDs be purchased?

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vex_zg wrote:
Where can these LEDs be purchased?

Last I knew they were out of production but maybe Clemence has managed to get more? I have not been keeping up with his stuff lately.

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Maybe somewhat unrelated but some nice high-CRI Osram Oslon emitters can be bought at pargos-shop.

Hope I can try some in a near future. 

 

Cheers Party

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