Nichia 219B 4500k D220 9080 CRI Emitter output test by Texas_Ace; Amazing tint and CRI! Output is what you would expect.

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Texas_Ace
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Barkuti wrote:

Maybe somewhat unrelated but some nice high-CRI Osram Oslon emitters can be bought at pargos-shop.


Hope I can try some in a near future. 


 


Cheers Party

Got a link to a specific item? I just seen 1400 listing of random electrical components.

alberto7
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Texas_Ace wrote:
Yeah, I forgot what the messured amps were but they were not anything to worry about, around 10 amps IIRC. I generally use GA’s in my personal lights but I generally test with 30Q. Either way it should not be an issue with a triple. Even if they are overdriven some it will not hurt then and it will quickly drop as the battery drains.

First of all thanks for your help. You not mentioned but i supose that the 10 amps (aprox) is with bypasess springs right? I think i will go with 22awg and phosphor bronze springs for driver and for the tail. And lets see whats the measurements are. Probably stay in 8-9 amps and thats will be perfect because from 9 to 12 ( in this led) its not much gain in lumens but more heat.

What do you think?

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I think that it is not worth overthinking it.

I learned early on that you can’t even see the difference between minor changes and even some major changes with the human eye. So why stress out over it.

For example going from 2.5A to full 6A turbo on an XP-L is hardly noticeable in the real world unless you see it side by side.

I would just build it with whatever fits and works in the host the best and then enjoy the results.

You won’t kill the LED’s regardless in a triple setup with a good thermal path which is the most important thing.

alberto7
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You are right, the thermal pach should be ok (convoy c8)

Thanks for your help.

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Barkuti wrote:

Maybe somewhat unrelated but some nice high-CRI Osram Oslon emitters can be bought at pargos-shop.


Hope I can try some in a near future. 


 


Cheers Party


There’s a positive and negative side to the high CRI Oslon Squares in that shop: the negative is that they show a second generation led in the picture but the leds actually on sale are in fact first generation (with clearly lower old-school performance), the positive is that the first gen. Squares have way better tints than the second and third generation (green Sick ).
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Mmmkay, some pre-made custom search links from pargos-shop:

There are many high-CRI offerings. I also wonder about the Golden DRAGON series, funny packaging!

 

Cheers Party

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What kind of output do they do compared to say a 219b?

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Texas_Ace wrote:
Barkuti wrote:

Maybe somewhat unrelated but some nice high-CRI Osram Oslon emitters can be bought at pargos-shop.


Hope I can try some in a near future. 


 


Cheers Party

Got a link to a specific item? I just seen 1400 listing of random electrical components.

Search Ebay for “Oslon CRI 96” and you’ll find them.
They also have CRI 95
Shipping to USA is probably like $12.50 though..

2Q19

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djozz wrote:
Barkuti wrote:

Maybe somewhat unrelated but some nice high-CRI Osram Oslon emitters can be bought at pargos-shop.


Hope I can try some in a near future. 


 


Cheers Party


There’s a positive and negative side to the high CRI Oslon Squares in that shop: the negative is that they show a second generation led in the picture but the leds actually on sale are in fact first generation (with clearly lower old-school performance), the positive is that the first gen. Squares have way better tints than the second and third generation (green Sick ).

I can confirm the tints are lovely.
I gues they’re better than R9050 too.
The 5730 0.5Watt “E5” in CRI95 are very nice too, by the way.

2Q19

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Not much of a problem for me with output, djozz. I was probably going to use them for some low current flashlight mod or small home lighting project, DIY stuff just for the sake of beautiful light.

I was already noticing v1.3 and v1.0 led versions the other day while inspecting the LCW CQAR.CC and GW CSSRM1.BM datasheets a few days ago. 

Their COB emitters look really good for home/business lighting.

 

Cheers Smile

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vex_zg wrote:
Where can these LEDs be purchased?

they came from here, what you see is what is left
https://www.virence.com/shop
Texas_Ace wrote:
Last I knew they were out of production but maybe Clemence has managed to get more? I have not been keeping up with his stuff lately.

last I heard,
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1227710#comment-1227710

clemence wrote:
Sorry to disappoint you guys. Nichia just dropped my request. 3 steps is the best we can get. The special order request is just too small for such a tight bin Sad
And I’m not going to purchase a full reel of sm5750e D220 9050 219C (the flux rank available for that bin)
Let’s drink the beer Beer

Let’s see how long I can supply these exotic Nichias. There are rules to be followed … Sad
This was really just a hobby for me too. But I have to turn it into professional manufacturing to keep it going.

- Clemence
https://www.virence.com/


I hope the Volcano does no harm
https://www.express.co.uk/news/world/887624/bali-volcano-eruption-mount-...

Barkuti wrote:
Maybe somewhat unrelated but some nice high-CRI Osram Oslon emitters can be bough

I hope to learn if there is an Osram option that is as good as the unobtanium sw45 9080

image courtesy of maukka

I have just one sw45, thanks to a generous member.. it is in my pocket as EDC since it arrived.. makes my hand look nice and pink, though the beamshot shows an unusual amount of violet in a photo, and Im not sure what to make of it, I really like using the LED, it is very “white” in the evening, not too yellow during the day.

(tint is relative to white balance) in this iPhone photo the auto white balance seems to have decided the 4500k N219b Worm is the white balance reference:

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Hey Jon,
someone just posted a pic of a black tool AAA they got with a 219C

I have one on the slow boat to me also. will see.

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vwpieces wrote:
Hey Jon,
someone just posted a pic of a black tool AAA they got with a 219C

I have one on the slow boat to me also. will see.


thanks for the link
I think the 219b are going the way of the DoDo Bird

I find the 219c less desirable in terms of being more yellow/green than the 219b, but, the 219c is brighter, and Imo Nichia is playing catchup with Cree(n)…. maybe Green Lumens are brighter than Red Lumens?;-)…

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This photo of yours, jon_slider, clearly shows how a 219B 4K Ra9080 is redder than a 219B “worm” (4K Ra9050?) and how a 219B 4.5K Ra9080 is both redder and bluer. With auto white balance your device adjusts the RGB level information of the picture to more or less “match” that of the reference, this makes it useless or hard material to work with when comparing against photographs with a standard colour balance like “daylight”. The pictures we see in our information technology equipment are just too limited in their colour space compared to the amazing capabilities of the human eye, brain and mind.

It is for this reason that I nearly always shot with daylight white balance, with some sort of note when not. Example:

 

 

The usual daylight white balance temperature is probably somewhere between 5500K and 6500K across most if not all devices. This is the reason the above picture looks quite warm, though the actual pleasantness of the above light is much higher than what it may seem (CRI85+ emitter, too). 

 

Cheers Smile

 

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Neal recently found some nice xhp35 HI 80 CRI D4 bin 4500k emitters. I talked him into getting some samples and sending them to me to test (and after the test, who knows where they might end up….lol). I am looking forward to these, I think they would have some real potential indeed.

I might put one in the GT and I really want to make a triple XHP35 EDC triple, why? I need it in my life.

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Texas_Ace wrote:
Neal recently found some nice xhp35 HI 80 CRI D4 bin 4500k emitters.
i think i got one from KD:
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S026091.Cree-XHP35-HI-D2-3D-Neutral-White-5000K-LED-Emitter
hmm… slightly cooler tint..
[edit]
Never mind, less exiting bin too..
[/edit]

Will he sell some?

2Q19

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Jerommel wrote:
Texas_Ace wrote:
Neal recently found some nice xhp35 HI 80 CRI D4 bin 4500k emitters.
i think i got one from KD:
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S026091.Cree-XHP35-HI-D2-3D-Neutral-White-5000K-LED-Emitter
hmm… slightly cooler tint..
[edit]
Never mind, less exiting bin too..
[/edit]

Will he sell some?

I also looked up other xhp35 options and this is the best I could find in the HI model (well, unless someone just prefers a different tint that is) also the best Cree lists in the datasheets.

If it tests well and there is demand I don’t think people would have to twist his arm very hard to get him to sell them.

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Jerommel wrote:
Oslon

someone bought 8Q and 8T tints, mentioned here..


no idea what they look like next to an N219b..

what would maukka do?

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Mine look like 5v or 5w or 6v or 6w.

Still haven’t tried the 3500K ones though.
I have 7 of them, and i have a DQG 3rd 26650…
The DQG is glued though… Sad

[EDIT]
It seems to be 6U and 6Q according to the Ebay listings.
[/EDIT]

2Q19

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There are 3000K MP-E7-L1 OSLON Squares right Wink there fellows, warm but claims an R9 typical of 90 points.

L1 is the forward voltage bin at 2.8 - 2.9V. 

 

Cheers Party

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jon_slider wrote:
Jerommel wrote:
Oslon

someone bought 8Q and 8T tints, mentioned here..


no idea what they look like next to an N219b..

what would maukka do?

They are way above the black bbl line. So they will have a very orange tint.
Compared to the NIchia 219B-V1 sw45 R9080 they will also be much warmer because of their 3000-3500K CCT.

Jerommel
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Hmm, i think it’s all rather orangey with the low color temperatures.

2Q19

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Well yes and no. You will always be able to tell if the tint is near the BBL or not. It either looks white or it doesn’t. 8Q and 8T and not “good” tints because they are garanteed to not be close to the BBL.

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The_Driver wrote:
Well yes and no. You will always be able to tell if the tint is near the BBL or not. It either looks white or it doesn’t. 8Q and 8T and not “good” tints because they are guaranteed to not be close to the BBL.

I mean below the BBL it is orange too.
Maybe even more orange than above BBL actually.
I agree 8Q and 8T is not what we would want though.

2Q19

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The_Driver wrote:
You will always be able to tell if the tint is near the BBL or not.

Im not sure that is universally true. That is why I like to see side by side beam shots. If you go look at photos Ive posted on the first page, you will see the color changes depending on the white balance used.

some people will naturally assume that a warm Color Temperature is a non white Tint, but that depends on the white balance of their brain at the time.

The_Driver wrote:
It either looks white or it doesn’t. 8Q and 8T and not “good” tints because they are garanteed to not be close to the BBL.

“white” is a very broad category. I agree that 8Q and 8T are above the BBL. That is the reason I posted the Osram bin chart. I still would want to “see” the beams, side by side compared to some Nichia options. Although the latest 219c tend to be above the BBL also, there is a degree of relativity, and again, side by side beam shots are my best metric to determine Tint differences, in addition to Color Temperature differences.

The good news is we have a couple 219b 9080 Nichias in circulation, which can serve as the benchmark to beat.

When people start saying the Osram Oslon is an alternative to an N219b, which are becoming unobtainable, I want to see side by side beams, in addition to maukkas outstanding chromaticity plots..

so far, I have not “seen” an Oslon that would interest me. I invite people suggesting them, to provide evidence of what they look like compared to a 9080 219b.. in any color temperature. preferably both at the same color temperature, so we can then see tint differences without being confused by differences in Color Temperature (warmth or coolness).

This chart will give you some idea of the wide range of “white” (it is not a single Color Temperature, though many people tend to think so. Actually, in my limited experience, an LED flashlight that is about 1000k cooler than the ambient light, will “look white”, at the time. But at another time of day, it can look Warm or Cool. Depends entirely on the white balance of the brain at the time.

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I can’t compare them right now, but for what it’s worth, here are the ID codes from the Phargos Ebay store:

Oslon Square 2700K = LCW CQAR.CC-MQ-6U-L2

Oslon Square 3000K = LCW CQAR.CC-MP-6R-L1

Oslon Square 3500K = LCW CQAR.CC-MP-6Q-MX

Oslon Square 4000K = LCW CQAR.CC-MR-6L-L2

These are all “CRI 96” versions and they’re all beneath the BBL, which is what most of us would prefer.
Unfortunately they don’t have 4500K in CRI96, nor in CRI95, nor 92, nor 90…

2Q19

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Avoid dramatizing with this fellows, remember that conjetures or assumptions based quarreling is usually a nice waste of time.

This stuff is not as simple, imho. You may think emitter tints slightly above or below the black body locus may not look exactly white and this is true, but that is a coordinate parameter probably obtained from some sort of average output deviation at the different measured frequencies. A high CRI emitter is going to have a much closer spectral distribution emission curve to that of a blackbody or sunlight, I believe this means a “bad” high-CRI tint just means the light will have a subtle tint, probably even more subtle than a lower CRI emitter with a closer to the black body locus tint. 

And please remember you're not just passive ideal observers but creators of your own bubbles of reality. 

 

Take care 

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A high CRI emitter can have a significantly off white tint, like this green Oslon which is one of the worst (duv 0.0093) I’ve tested regardless of CRI.

However, as the tint was quite consistent throughout the beam in the test light (Thrunite TC12 V2), it can be corrected with a simple filter (unlike an XP-G3 for example).

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jon_slider wrote:
The_Driver wrote:
You will always be able to tell if the tint is near the BBL or not.

Im not sure that is universally true. That is why I like to see side by side beam shots. If you go look at photos Ive posted on the first page, you will see the color changes depending on the white balance used.

some people will naturally assume that a warm Color Temperature is a non white Tint, but that depends on the white balance of their brain at the time.

The_Driver wrote:
It either looks white or it doesn’t. 8Q and 8T and not “good” tints because they are garanteed to not be close to the BBL.

“white” is a very broad category. I agree that 8Q and 8T are above the BBL. That is the reason I posted the Osram bin chart. I still would want to “see” the beams, side by side compared to some Nichia options. Although the latest 219c tend to be above the BBL also, there is a degree of relativity, and again, side by side beam shots are my best metric to determine Tint differences, in addition to Color Temperature differences.

The good news is we have a couple 219b 9080 Nichias in circulation, which can serve as the benchmark to beat.

When people start saying the Osram Oslon is an alternative to an N219b, which are becoming unobtainable, I want to see side by side beams, in addition to maukkas outstanding chromaticity plots..

so far, I have not “seen” an Oslon that would interest me. I invite people suggesting them, to provide evidence of what they look like compared to a 9080 219b.. in any color temperature. preferably both at the same color temperature, so we can then see tint differences without being confused by differences in Color Temperature (warmth or coolness).

This chart will give you some idea of the wide range of “white” (it is not a single Color Temperature, though many people tend to think so. Actually, in my limited experience, an LED flashlight that is about 1000k cooler than the ambient light, will “look white”, at the time. But at another time of day, it can look Warm or Cool. Depends entirely on the white balance of the brain at the time.

White means that a tint is the on the BBL. As long as the intensity of the light is matched to the CCT (see here) the human brain will get used to it and perceive such light as “white”.
.
These 8T and 8Q tints are worse than what Clemence’s Nichia LEDs do (see Maukkas tests). The current Nichia 219C and 144A R9050 LEDs with the ecxeption of the 4000K (3-step 403) variant are all rather good. Many people here seem to prefer an off-white reddish/pinkish tint which seems to make colors “pop” more. The 219B-V1 sw45 and the 219C 4070e are the only LEDs here until now which garantuee such a tint.
.
I also prefer such off-white tints, but only inside. Outside I only like them when my surroundings are very brownish (forest with no leaves etc.). Otherwise a bit more balanced light is more pleasing.
.
The 144A 4500K R9050 in particular has a very natural tint, very close to the BBL. Unfortunately is suffers from the same problems as current Cree LEDs (the corona has a lower CCT than the hotspot and the spill).

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I’m always totally puzzled by Maukka’s graphs… Facepalm

2Q19

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