Boruit Headlamp Review D10 (aka. EHL0628) - King of the Budget Headlamps?

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Barkuti
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Quadrupel wrote:
Good host deserves good driver Smile
3 chan…

 

In my opinion, using 7135 regulators is like driving with an old banger, a rattletrap. There are plenty of nice high power MOSFETs which can be used in linear mode, avoiding the less than ideal regulation of 7135s when PWMed and completely doing away with such undesirability.

Thanks for sharing. So it uses a dual board e-switch driver, could you share its dimensions? Diameter and total height. I wonder what other good e-switch drivers could fit inside.

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Quadrupel
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To fix hardware is not big deal, real problem is to get proper firmware to run it. Ordered few pcbs with FET+1. Gonna try to run Anduril. Stock driver size 20.7×19mm.

ch1ir
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Hello there, I just received my lamp and I’m preparing to replace the MCPCB/LED, what the easiest way to go about taking the old board out? I understand it is difficult do to the thermal glue. Any tips are appreciated.

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JasonWW
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ch1ir wrote:
Hello there, I just received my lamp and I’m preparing to replace the MCPCB/LED, what the easiest way to go about taking the old board out? I understand it is difficult do to the thermal glue. Any tips are appreciated.

I use needle nose pliers and carefully but firmly twist it loose. You can remove wires first and tuck them out of the way so they don’t get cut during the twist.

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jigsaw
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Quadrupel wrote:
Good host deserves good driver Smile 3 channel , stabilized modes, 10 level ramping, hidden strobes, 1click on-off. If interested, PM me Wink IMG-20191029-121709 IMG-20191029-154328

Did you build that driver or buy it? I’d like to know more.

ch1ir
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Thanks for the help! I also bought a 60° TIR lens, what/how do I shave it down, I appreciate it

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JasonWW
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ch1ir wrote:
Thanks for the help! I also bought a 60° TIR lens, what/how do I shave it down, I appreciate it

It will probably be a bit too tall and too big a diameter.

You can use a metal file, sandpaper, Dremel or grinder to reduce it’s size.

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johnkey68
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Unscrew the bezel, remove the reflector, turn it on for a few seconds in maximum mode and carefully rotate the star with curved pliers
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johnkey68 wrote:
Unscrew the bezel, remove the reflector, turn it on for a few seconds in maximum mode and carefully rotate the star with curved pliers

Sorry, but sounds like bad advice. Turning it on for a few seconds will not build any heat. Even if left on max for several minutes it won’t do anything. Plus you risk cutting the wires which means more work to pull them completely out and extend them. This is all assuming the battery is removed. Cutting a led wire and shorting it with a battery installed could short the battery and probably burn up the wires. Sick

Maybe remove the battery, remove the wires from the star, tuck wires down in holes, heat the star with the iron, then try twisting. Maybe the heat will help soften the glue, but it’s unlikely. I think the heat will just sink into the flashlight body.

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JasonWW wrote:
Sorry, but sounds like bad advice.

No, I’m not sorry … Big Smile
Tested on at least three lights … Thumbs Up

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To change diode properly , in most cases you need to change wires as well, because they are becoming to short. To change wires you need to unscrew switch cap CLOCKWISE. When you unscrew switch cap and unsolder wires you can remove driver&charger sandwich. When all done you can mount host on soldering iron to heat it up (use gloves or don’t touch host) and remove diode . ..and when you done so much work , change stock driver to proper one Big Smile . Lens height 11mm like stock reflector, use it with stock glass : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32905704306.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0...
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Most folks don’t change the wires, they just extend one on them. Very simple.

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ch1ir
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Where can I source a strong magnet for this guy, preferably a local place like Home Depot, or is there a better online option?

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ch1ir wrote:
Where can I source a strong magnet for this guy, preferably a local place like Home Depot, or is there a better online option?

Local places are very limited in sizes. I typically order from China. Places like Banggood and Aliexpress have the best prices, but ebay may also be an option. Just figure out the size you need. N52 are the strongest.

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JasonWW wrote:
ch1ir wrote:
Hello there, I just received my lamp and I’m preparing to replace the MCPCB/LED, what the easiest way to go about taking the old board out? I understand it is difficult do to the thermal glue. Any tips are appreciated.
I use needle nose pliers and carefully but firmly twist it loose. You can remove wires first and tuck them out of the way so they don’t get cut during the twist.

From my experience, this is the best way to remove the LED MCPCB. I tried heating it up, but that did not help soften it up or ease in the removal. And it didn’t seem any type of solvent helped either. I tried isopropyl alcohol, paint thinner, nail polish remover (acetone), lacquer thinner, and naphtha.

It just took brute force twisting and turning the MCPCB back and forth to eventually loosen it up. And then I soldered a wire to the MCPCB to pull it out. The thermal adhesive seemed to be some type of flexible silicone material.

And in the end, the MCPCB took a beating, but I was careful to minimize any damage to the Boroit host.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

ch1ir
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I ended up sending it to a professional, thank you for the information. I also bought a gold-plated magnet to put on the outside of it, is that safe?

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ch1ir wrote:
I ended up sending it to a professional, thank you for the information. I also bought a gold-plated magnet to put on the outside of it, is that safe?

Just stick it with epoxy glue
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Приветствую ! Драйвер на 4 АМС 7135 установил . Все работает . И память , и рампинг , и вверх и вниз .
Один вопрос : – это нормально когда сначала происходит кратковременная вспышка потом переход в память последнего режима ?

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This light seems to have a sibling that features zooming TIR, name Boruit D20:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32839262144.html

Does anybody have one?

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gchart wrote:
Wildcat wrote:
Quote:
The output appears to be constant
No. This flashlight has a FET driver, so the brightness will change as the battery runs out.

Correct, the driver has two (parallel) FETs with current limiting resistors to control the output. Driver pic and runtime charts here

PS – I swapped the MCU on mine for an attiny412 running RampingIOS. It’s a direct swap in for many/most of the D10/D25 headlamps. If anyone is interested in doing that to theirs, feel free to PM me.


I don’t need that (yet?) but I’m curious about this setup. Smile
I wonder why did you choose RampingIOS over the more-common Andruil. Do you simply like it more? Was it easier to port to this MCU for you? Any other reason?
ADDED:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66009 has some discussion. I’ll switch there.
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My D20 arrived today and I’m very impressed with it. Well built, with fair lens, passable UI. Quite lightweight lamp with lightweight headband. Machining is quite poor and so is anodization.
Considering how cheap it is, it’s a great light as it is but it also seems like a great host.
The King of Budget Headlamps? Yeah, it looks so.

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I decided to update the thread title and O.P. to refer to this headlamp as the “D10” as it is more widely known.

-Garry

My Bike Lights Thread, Optics (TIR) Comparison Beamshots, Diffusion Techniques

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garrybunk wrote:
I decided to update the thread title and O.P. to refer to this headlamp as the “D10” as it is more widely known.

-Garry

Inquiring minds want to know. How many trips through the snowblower has this one survived? Silly

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None, so far Smile .

-Garry

My Bike Lights Thread, Optics (TIR) Comparison Beamshots, Diffusion Techniques

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Anyone here consider the UranusFire that merges Boruit RJ02 & D10?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32932757768.html

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xevious wrote:
Anyone here consider the UranusFire that merges Boruit RJ02 & D10?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32932757768.html

The description of the UI looks a bit scary with High or Low. Maybe that’s incorrect and it has 5 levels, but I would not take the risk. I found the motion sensor on the RJ02 a bit gimmicky anyway. I never used it. So I did not consider that light.

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JasonWW wrote:
xevious wrote:
Anyone here consider the UranusFire that merges Boruit RJ02 & D10?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32932757768.html

The description of the UI looks a bit scary with High or Low. Maybe that’s incorrect and it has 5 levels, but I would not take the risk. I found the motion sensor on the RJ02 a bit gimmicky anyway. I never used it. So I did not consider that light.
Thanks. I thought it would be a nice novelty to have, but upon further consideration I doubt it would last (interest that is). Much easier to buy an external motion sensor device & use a USB powered LED light source.

What headlamp(s) do you reach for the most?

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What I use is a modded D10. I put a nice NW 5000K nichia in it and added a 60° TIR optic. I mainly use mine for close up work and auto use. It’s good for soldering and the accurate color rendering helps identify wire colors in a big loom. The wide beam helps when your really close. It’s very light weight and the centered led, not offset, is prefered.

You just have to use what’s best suited for your situation. If it’s not perfect out of the box, then mod it to better suite your needs.

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JasonWW wrote:
What I use is a modded D10. I put a nice NW 5000K nichia in it and added a 60° TIR optic. I mainly use mine for close up work and auto use. It’s good for soldering and the accurate color rendering helps identify wire colors in a big loom. The wide beam helps when your really close. It’s very light weight and the centered led, not offset, is prefered.

You just have to use what’s best suited for your situation. If it’s not perfect out of the box, then mod it to better suite your needs.

Thanks. How difficult was it to remove the MCPCB from the D10 to reflow a new emitter? Would a Nichia 219B fit (presumably it would if going to TIR)?
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xevious wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
What I use is a modded D10. I put a nice NW 5000K nichia in it and added a 60° TIR optic. I mainly use mine for close up work and auto use. It’s good for soldering and the accurate color rendering helps identify wire colors in a big loom. The wide beam helps when your really close. It’s very light weight and the centered led, not offset, is prefered.

You just have to use what’s best suited for your situation. If it’s not perfect out of the box, then mod it to better suite your needs.

Thanks. How difficult was it to remove the MCPCB from the D10 to reflow a new emitter? Would a Nichia 219B fit (presumably it would if going to TIR)?

All your questions are answered in this thread.

I simply swapped mcpcb, no reflowing.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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