Boruit Headlamp Review D10 (aka. EHL0628) - King of the Budget Headlamps?

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xevious
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/\ Thanks, Jason.

ch1ir
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Same here,but I have 219b sw35 in mine, epoxied a magnet, also the convoy S2 clip fits well.
I use it for around the house plumbing work and beautiful rose colored walks with dogs

Emisar D⁴, Astrolux C8, BLF A6, Sofirn sp36aV2, Reylight Mini Pineapple, BLF 348 KillZone, Lumintop IYP07, Emisar D18, Boruit D10, Manker e01, Ultrafire z1, Massdrop titanium AAA, Astrolux HL01, Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia, Tacklife LFL3A, Astrolux FT03, Zanflair T1

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I’m preparing to buy my second light of this family, D10 this time.
Reading about how these are manufactured by multiple companies and how quality varies I decided to search for a good variant.
I’ve read of one difference that allows to filter out at least some bad ones – they have bad holders and the light is not secure in them.
Some bad holders have a hole in the middle, the bad ones have a nub like below:

Mine is good and has a nub which confirms the observation.

So I went on to search on Ali to see what was there. I hoped that I could find a brand that would be consistently good.
I see 2 major brands, Boruit and Sanyi as well as many unbranded. Reading reviews I see that both brands have seen complaints about holders that wouldn’t secure the light properly.
The seller that I bought my light from (Boruit Official Store) also sees such complaints, so ordering there again does not warrant quality. Facepalm
Any suggestions on how to avoid the lottery and get something consistently good for a good price? And I need primarily a host, so Sofirn price ain’t good and I’ve heard that Sofirn holders are not really good either.

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Agro wrote:
My D20 arrived today and I'm very impressed with it. Well built, with fair lens, passable UI. Quite lightweight lamp with lightweight headband. Machining is quite poor and so is anodization.

I see some customer information in the Boruit Official Store sale advertisement link you posted earlier but, would you mind sharing any other details? I wonder how hard is it to modify, emitter and driver wise namely.

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ch1ir
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Just went and confirmed mine also has the nub, and it seems the hold it in there pretty firmly

Emisar D⁴, Astrolux C8, BLF A6, Sofirn sp36aV2, Reylight Mini Pineapple, BLF 348 KillZone, Lumintop IYP07, Emisar D18, Boruit D10, Manker e01, Ultrafire z1, Massdrop titanium AAA, Astrolux HL01, Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia, Tacklife LFL3A, Astrolux FT03, Zanflair T1

Agro
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Barkuti wrote:

Agro wrote:
My D20 arrived today and I’m very impressed with it. Well built, with fair lens, passable UI. Quite lightweight lamp with lightweight headband. Machining is quite poor and so is anodization.

I see some customer information in the Boruit Official Store sale advertisement link you posted earlier but, would you mind sharing any other details? I wonder how hard is it to modify, emitter and driver wise namely.


I haven’t hard yet, but at least uneasy.
The bezel doesn’t come off and is likely glued or held with a press-fit shim. Sad
And I should note I’m bad at opening lights other than the easiest.
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Hate those clippy mounts, and prefer the rubber rings like the original RJ02 has/had. Secure, yet easy-on/easy-off when needed.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

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Agro wrote:
Barkuti wrote:
… would you mind sharing any other details? I wonder how hard is it to modify, emitter and driver wise namely.

I haven't hard yet, but at least uneasy. The bezel doesn't come off and is likely glued or held with a press-fit shim. Sad

And I should note I'm bad at opening lights other than the easiest.

Mmm, maybe you can try dipping the thing in some white spirit or turpentine, that should dissolve any glue in a few hours (white spirit will damage any o-rings, be warned). 

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Agro wrote:
The bezel doesn’t come off and is likely glued or held with a press-fit shim. Sad And I should note I’m bad at opening lights other than the easiest.

There is nothing interesting inside anyway

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Quadrupel wrote:
Agro wrote:
The bezel doesn’t come off and is likely glued or held with a press-fit shim. Sad And I should note I’m bad at opening lights other than the easiest.

There is nothing interesting inside anyway


Thanks a lot for the video.
Simple…bit I haven’t tried that before.
Now I did – and it didn’t work, even with significant force, I only managed to scratch it badly.

The interesting thing inside is LED which needs to be swapped to make this a really good light.

Will get some turpentine, thanks Barkuti!

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Will any colourless turpentine do fine or should I seek specifically white spirit?

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Agro wrote:
Any suggestions on how to avoid the lottery and get something consistently good for a good price? And I need primarily a host, so Sofirn price ain’t good and I’ve heard that Sofirn holders are not really good either.

there is no way to be sure with those inexpensive brands, it is always a lotto. but in this particular case, it is certainty 99,9% you will get new holder, they seem to stop making first gen holders

i stopped using all my oem holders and bands, i print my own, and i use 35-40mm bands. for d10-25 as well as zebralight and skilhunt.

if you can print, you can find stl in this thread, http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66009 and it is tested and it works great, just print it on the side,
i also designed my own holder for d10-25, as well as zl h600. i have no way to post stl here, not i have acct at stl hosting sites, but if interested pm me i’ll email you stl.

btw, you can heat up 2nd gen holders grips and bend them in tiny bit, and it will hold just as good as 1st, i tried it and it worked great, using a construction heat gun, but i set it too high, and edges started bubbling, but it still held the light firm.

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Agro wrote:
Will any colourless turpentine do fine or should I seek specifically white spirit?

In my experience white spirit helped me to open the bezels of Thorfire TA13 and Sofirn SF30A flashlights. Like alcohol, its pervasive.

Turpentine should also work, it helped me dissolving a massive bonding layer of glue from a battery pack in the case of a DIY power bank I once built.

Depending on how tight and how much glue a nice bunch of hours for it to work, or maybe a day or two, may be required.

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What effect would white spirit have on a driver? Some drivers are glued and a real pain to get out.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

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JasonWW I doubt white spirit will have any detrimental effect on a driver board. You can also try with gas, after all white spirit is similar to gas but with 0 octane rating. Just don't dump that gas into your car's tank afterwards… Big Smile

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alpg88 wrote:
Agro wrote:
Any suggestions on how to avoid the lottery and get something consistently good for a good price? And I need primarily a host, so Sofirn price ain’t good and I’ve heard that Sofirn holders are not really good either.

there is no way to be sure with those inexpensive brands, it is always a lotto. but in this particular case, it is certainty 99,9% you will get new holder, they seem to stop making first gen holders

i stopped using all my oem holders and bands, i print my own, and i use 35-40mm bands. for d10-25 as well as zebralight and skilhunt.

if you can print, you can find stl in this thread, http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66009 and it is tested and it works great, just print it on the side,
i also designed my own holder for d10-25, as well as zl h600. i have no way to post stl here, not i have acct at stl hosting sites, but if interested pm me i’ll email you stl.

btw, you can heat up 2nd gen holders grips and bend them in tiny bit, and it will hold just as good as 1st, i tried it and it worked great, using a construction heat gun, but i set it too high, and edges started bubbling, but it still held the light firm.


Do you mean that gen 1 is good and gen 2 is bad?
Are all companies that manufacture these lights using the same holders?

I’ve wanted to try your holder for some time already. My employer purchased a 3D printer a week ago and I hope I’ll be able to use it. Anyway, I know that I like the current holder and I don’t yet know if I like yours – and I would surely want to order something that works.

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Agro wrote:

Do you mean that gen 1 is good and gen 2 is bad?
Are all companies that manufacture these lights using the same holders?

I’ve wanted to try your holder for some time already. My employer purchased a 3D printer a week ago and I hope I’ll be able to use it. Anyway, I know that I like the current holder and I don’t yet know if I like yours – and I would surely want to order something that works.

Yes, 1st gen had thicker grips and gripped a lot better. it looks like every light of those types no matter the brand come with identical holders

the stl in the link i posted isn’t mine, it was designed by gchart. mine are for wider bands. they are larger and thicker, i’ll post pics when i get home. molded plastic is much stronger than printed, (i have not tried polycarbonate, or nylon, or carbon fiber filled filament, they supposed to be stronger, but my printer can’t handle them) i have tested several designs, printed in different positions, from different materials, (petg, abs) , as well as oem. i bend them to the point of braking, that is why i designed mine to be thicker, and larger then oem, Gchart’s design is strong enough to last a long time, if printed on the side, (layer orientation matters a lot, as far as strength) uses original rubber strap. he also designed one for wider strap.

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Simply amazing

Emisar D⁴, Astrolux C8, BLF A6, Sofirn sp36aV2, Reylight Mini Pineapple, BLF 348 KillZone, Lumintop IYP07, Emisar D18, Boruit D10, Manker e01, Ultrafire z1, Massdrop titanium AAA, Astrolux HL01, Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia, Tacklife LFL3A, Astrolux FT03, Zanflair T1

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BTW I wonder when will we see a Type C variant…

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alpg88 wrote:

the stl in the link i posted isn’t mine, it was designed by gchart. mine are for wider bands. they are larger and thicker, i’ll post pics when i get home. …………..

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Yeah, I know I can buy converters. But I hate this hack. I guess I’m waiting for the year 2020…and in these lights it failed to arrive so far.

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Fact is it is better to be flexible. So, if you stopped buying USB A to micro-B cables you are better buying converters. After all, the USB micro-B connector is smaller (takes up less space), cheaper and perfectly adequate for (at least) up to 12 - 18 W of power.

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Barkuti wrote:

Fact is it is better to be flexible. So, if you stopped buying USB A to micro-B cables you are better buying converters. After all, the USB micro-B connector is smaller (takes up less space), cheaper and perfectly adequate for (at least) up to 12 – 18 W of power.

I also hear that cassette tapes are adequate for playing music. 6 volt positive chassis is an adequate electrical system for automobiles. The bow and arrow make an adequate weapon. Horse and buggy make for adequate transportation.

Just because something is adequate doesn’t mean progress should stop.

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gchart wrote:
Barkuti wrote:

Fact is it is better to be flexible. So, if you stopped buying USB A to micro-B cables you are better buying converters. After all, the USB micro-B connector is smaller (takes up less space), cheaper and perfectly adequate for (at least) up to 12 – 18 W of power.

I also hear that cassette tapes are adequate for playing music. 6 volt positive chassis is an adequate electrical system for automobiles. The bow and arrow make an adequate weapon. Horse and buggy make for adequate transportation.

Just because something is adequate doesn’t mean progress should stop.

A couple of reasons why Micro USB will be around for a while. It’s less complicated than USB C. The connector is also simpler (fewer pinouts). Therefore it’s cheaper (how much more I don’t know) to make and integrate into devices. Ever wonder why cheaper devices still have it? It’s good for charging. Here’s why I don’t like it…the connectors are flimsy by design. The USB C connector is more robust. I’ve had perfectly good devices go in the bin because the USB micro connector failed or just wore out and couldn’t be repaired (can’t charge the device). USB C can access higher USB speeds/bandwidths than Micro. Will it get replaced eventually? You can guarantee it. Will they keep developing/improving it? Probably not, but it will be around for a while.

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Sirstinky wrote:
A couple of reasons why Micro USB will be around for a while. It’s less complicated than USB C. The connector is also simpler (fewer pinouts). Therefore it’s cheaper (how much more I don’t know) to make and integrate into devices. Ever wonder why cheaper devices still have it? It’s good for charging. Here’s why I don’t like it…the connectors are flimsy by design. The USB C connector is more robust. I’ve had perfectly good devices go in the bin because the USB micro connector failed or just wore out and couldn’t be repaired (can’t charge the device). USB C can access higher USB speeds/bandwidths than Micro. Will it get replaced eventually? You can guarantee it. Will they keep developing/improving it? Probably not, but it will be around for a while.

Respectfully… I feel like it’s still around largely because it’s what the manufacturers know and are accustomed to using.

As far as being more complex… sorta. There are more pins that can be connected, true. Like MicroUSB, though, you only need to connect two pins (power and ground) in order to charge a device… so long as you’re using an A-to-C cable and not a C-to-C cable. In that sense, the jacks are practically a drop-in replacement.

But in order to handle C-to-C cables, you do need two extremely cheap resistors (like $0.0001 or less in bulk) in the device attached to a couple of the pins so that it gets properly identified as the receiving end. Is it an extra measure that needs to be taken? Sure. Is it really that much more expensive or complicated? Naw.

Now if you want to open up the can of worms that is QC2 vs QC3 vs PD, etc… ugh. But there’s no reason to in a flashlight as long as you don’t need a high charge current/voltage.

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gchart wrote:
Barkuti wrote:

Fact is it is better to be flexible. So, if you stopped buying USB A to micro-B cables you are better buying converters. After all, the USB micro-B connector is smaller (takes up less space), cheaper and perfectly adequate for (at least) up to 12 – 18 W of power.

I also hear that cassette tapes are adequate for playing music. 6 volt positive chassis is an adequate electrical system for automobiles. The bow and arrow make an adequate weapon. Horse and buggy make for adequate transportation.

Just because something is adequate doesn’t mean progress should stop.

LOL Party Big Smile Thumbs Up
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gchart wrote:
Barkuti wrote:

Fact is it is better to be flexible. So, if you stopped buying USB A to micro-B cables you are better buying converters. After all, the USB micro-B connector is smaller (takes up less space), cheaper and perfectly adequate for (at least) up to 12 – 18 W of power.

I also hear that cassette tapes are adequate for playing music. 6 volt positive chassis is an adequate electrical system for automobiles. The bow and arrow make an adequate weapon. Horse and buggy make for adequate transportation.

Just because something is adequate doesn’t mean progress should stop.

Now don’t go raggin’ on Horse and Buggy man. Smile
When the Electromagnetic KaaPows drop, the Horses will still operate.

Matter of fact the Amish have been preppers since before that term was even mainstream.
Organic food?, yep, Solar? Been there done that. Generators? Oh hell yeah, big diesel jobs.
They dig LED’s though, now their buggy batteries last for months without recharge instead of once/twice a week.
Some of the newer buggies can use Dewalt tool batts to run the lights, usually 2 of them in parallel.
They are much more tech savvy then most people realize and also understand all types of medical procedures and the equivalent natural options available.

One of my neighbors traveled to Germany for a back operation that the doctors here would not do because of liability and even after the airfare and lodging it still cost less and worked like magic.

Sorry for the off topic.
Carry on!

“History doesn’t repeat itself, but it sometimes rhymes,” Mark Twain

After the Apocalypse there will be only 2 things left alive, Cockroaches and Keith Richards

“You’ll develop like a herd mentality,”
“It’s gonna be herd-developed and that’s gonna happen.”

Yep it already happened

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Muto wrote:
gchart wrote:
Barkuti wrote:

Fact is it is better to be flexible. So, if you stopped buying USB A to micro-B cables you are better buying converters. After all, the USB micro-B connector is smaller (takes up less space), cheaper and perfectly adequate for (at least) up to 12 – 18 W of power.


I also hear that cassette tapes are adequate for playing music. 6 volt positive chassis is an adequate electrical system for automobiles. The bow and arrow make an adequate weapon. Horse and buggy make for adequate transportation.
Just because something is adequate doesn’t mean progress should stop.
Now don’t go raggin’ on Horse and Buggy man. Smile
When the Electromagnetic KaaPows drop, the Horses will still operate.

Matter of fact the Amish have been preppers since before that term was even mainstream.
Organic food?, yep, Solar? Been there done that. Generators? Oh hell yeah, big diesel jobs.
They dig LED’s though, now their buggy batteries last for months without recharge instead of once/twice a week.
Some of the newer buggies can use Dewalt tool batts to run the lights, usually 2 of them in parallel.
They are much more tech savvy then most people realize and also understand all types of medical procedures and the equivalent natural options available.

One of my neighbors traveled to Germany for a back operation that the doctors here would not do because of liability and even after the airfare and lodging it still cost less and worked like magic.

Cassette tape player motors consume far more energy than an MP3 player. Just sayin’. Wink
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By the way, out of my above posted adapters in #234 the ones from links 2 & 3 do not work for data transmission, tried them to connect an EBD-M05 battery tester to PC via type-C cable and failure. So beware. 

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