6. Batch "TA" 1S or 2S Bistro HD OTSM/NarsilM drivers 15-47.5mm size fit, S2+, C8, H03, MF01, MT03, Q8 Clicky or E-switch

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robinogi
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Ooh the MF01S looks interesting! When is it supposed to ship? I just put my name on the interest list.

dropman
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Hi. I am new here and dont understand much about these custom drivers.
Probably this is right place to get new driver for my Convoy C8+. I need driver capable of moon mode, some regulated modes and turbo. Was thinking about BLF A6 driver, but there are only two mode groups which doesnt suit me much. I need something like this – moon, 1×7135, 8×7138, turbo. Or 1×7135, 8×7135, turbo. All without memory. Can it be done an how does it will cost to ship to EU? Need it to be plug and play, so I can solder only two wires. Thanks.

Lexel
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To make an order simply PM me

Bistro drivers like C8 can be user programmed for different mode groups, no memory like you want
Spring and wires can be added for some extra fee
I ship from Germany

I also made an update on new driver wiring

Lexel
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Shipping has to go up as today the post increased the costs
Germany +0.1€
International +0.2€
tracking +1€ international

KevinZA1988
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Just installed the Q8 driver running Anduril… It’s amazing! Thanks a lot Lexel!

Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

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Overload
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Hi Lexel, I would like to buy an anduril driver for H03.Is that possible?

rjd
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I have a e-switch wiring question. Does the – side of the switch HAVE to go to the – pad on the driver or will any – source work?

JasonWW
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rjd wrote:
I have a e-switch wiring question. Does the – side of the switch HAVE to go to the – pad on the driver or will any – source work?

Any negative will work.

The little leg on the MCU that controls the switch has a small positive “potential” on it. This needs to touch ground to complete the circuit and signal the MCU. You can run the positive wire from this leg or pad to the switch and then the return wire can go to any ground point you want. It can be on the driver or the flashlight body. There are many negative points on the driver, maybe even a dedicated pad for it.

PS, this is an old thread. New questions should go to the new Batch 7 thread.

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rjd
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Thanks for the answer JasonWW, I’m still at the little bit of knowledge is dangerous stage.
I realize this is a old thread but didn’t want to ask in the new one in case it caused confusion.

One more question please, can the led – wire pick up on any available earth as well or must it attach to the driver?

Edit: Google tells me it must be attached to the driver.

Tom E
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LED- is critical to come from the driver. Most drivers pass the batt+ directly to LED+, then the LED- from the driver is the driver managed power source to control amps, PWM's, etc.

JasonWW
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rjd wrote:
Thanks for the answer JasonWW, I’m still at the little bit of knowledge is dangerous stage.
I realize this is a old thread but didn’t want to ask in the new one in case it caused confusion.

One more question please, can the led – wire pick up on any available earth as well or must it attach to the driver?

Edit: Google tells me it must be attached to the driver.


Are you talking about the switch led or the main led?

The main led negative has to go to a specific input point on the driver. This way the driver can control the brightness.

Here is a simple FET diagram. You can see that the FET controls the contact from led to ground.

If you are asking about the switch led, that can be attached to any ground point on driver or body. A lot of times it shares a ground wire with the switch negative. I’m refering to seperate switch boards that have leds built in like below.

The switch led has an output leg on the MCU that will go through a resistor either on the driver or the switch pcb then to the tiny led then to ground. At least on Lexels drivers. There are many ways switch leds can be wired up depending on the driver design and some even bypass the driver completely.

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rjd
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Only asking about the main led thanks.
I’m trying to set up a lexel+anduril driver in a DQG 18650 Tiny4 triple.

rjd
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Hi, I know there is a new thread in regard to these drivers but I’m having problems with a recently installed driver from this batch. It’ a standard 17mm running Anduril flashed by Lexel.
The problem is it’s not responding to the button presses correctly. It will not switch on with a single click unless it was switched off when in the top half of the brightness range but always starts with a click and hold but jumps straight to half brightness. When set in step mood it will step down to low and then switches off. Turbo works as it should. Programming for the floor and ceiling levels doesn’t work. Soft lockout does.
When I soldered on the + terminal on the driver I had a bridge across to the center pin on one of the chips but I seen and removed that before start up, I’ve checked with my DMM and even though some pins look close there not touching.
Ant idea’s what I should do?
Thanks.

JasonWW
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rjd wrote:
Hi, I know there is a new thread in regard to these drivers but I’m having problems with a recently installed driver from this batch. It’ a standard 17mm running Anduril flashed by Lexel.
The problem is it’s not responding to the button presses correctly. It will not switch on with a single click unless it was switched off when in the top half of the brightness range but always starts with a click and hold but jumps straight to half brightness. When set in step mood it will step down to low and then switches off. Turbo works as it should. Programming for the floor and ceiling levels doesn’t work. Soft lockout does.
When I soldered on the + terminal on the driver I had a bridge across to the center pin on one of the chips but I seen and removed that before start up, I’ve checked with my DMM and even though some pins look close there not touching.
Ant idea’s what I should do?
Thanks.

Is it simply a matter of the low brightness channel not working? How many channels are on the driver? Can it do the full range of brightness when in smooth ramping?

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rjd
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I believe its a 3 channel, order says direct drive and it has one chip on the front and 6 on the back.
Brightness range it the same if raping or stepping, all of the functions from off seem to work except for the candle.
Setting of the floor, ceiling levels and number of steps doesn’t seem to work..
Low brightness channel not working could explain it, how would I test it?

JasonWW
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rjd wrote:
I believe its a 3 channel, order says direct drive and it has one chip on the front and 6 on the back.
Brightness range it the same if raping or stepping, all of the functions from off seem to work except for the candle.
Setting of the floor, ceiling levels and number of steps doesn’t seem to work..
Low brightness channel not working could explain it, how would I test it?

Yeah, that sounds like a 3 channel.

The floor and ceiling limits are unique for both smooth or stepped ramping. You just go into the one you want to adjust and follow the steps(see below). Stepped has the 3rd option which is number of steps.

The single 7135 chip allows for 350 milliamp which for most lights is moonlight up to at least 100 lumen. You can tell if that channel is working by the low brightness levels. If you ramp down from a really bright level and the output suddenly turns off around 100-200 lumen then your channel 1 is not working.

If the ramp floor is set really high then the light will ramp down and stop, but stay turned on.

You adjust the ramp limits by starting with the light On, do 4 fast clicks. I think you see a flutter for the first option which is the floor. You can click once which sets it at the dimmest level.

The next flutter is the ramp ceiling. You can do 1 click which is the brightest setting. Default is sometimes 30 clicks.

If your in stepped mode you get the 3rd glitter and you click the number of steps you want. Default is usually 7.

I would recommend staying in smooth ramping for testing purposes.

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rjd
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Thanks again JasonWW for your help.
From what you have described it certainly sounds like like channel 1 isn’t working. Is it possible to repair and how’s it done?
Thanks.

JasonWW
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rjd wrote:
Thanks again JasonWW for your help.
From what you have described it certainly sounds like like channel 1 isn’t working. Is it possible to repair and how’s it done?
Thanks.

I’m going to assume you don’t have any sophisticated electronics gear, but maybe a soldering iron. Firstly, I would take some close up pictures of both sides of the driver and post them here so we can look for problems. It’s possible a tiny solder ball, or similar, has come loose in shipping and shorted the channel one circuit making it not work. Let’s start with that.

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rjd
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Sorry for the delay in getting back but I swapped drivers and had the same problem Sad
Swapped out the led with a Jaxman triple and problem solved Smile
It was a triple on a 20mm Noctigon board that I ground down a mm or so, could this caused it to fault?
How do I test and repair?

JasonWW
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rjd wrote:
Sorry for the delay in getting back but I swapped drivers and had the same problem Sad
Swapped out the led with a Jaxman triple and problem solved Smile
It was a triple on a 20mm Noctigon board that I ground down a mm or so, could this caused it to fault?
How do I test and repair?

So it was something about the leds that they only worked above a certain brightness level? They just turned off as the brightness got too low? That is very strange.
Maybe one of the leds was defective causing them all to behave the same?
I don’t have experience with that situation, sorry.

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Tom E
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I never heard of LED's behaving like this either, but who knows, could be possible. I've done a lot of MCPCB mods including grinding them down and never had problems.

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