Yezl Y3 - a picture breakdown

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fellfromtree
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Thick orings work to fit protected batteries in. Act as spacers. Found a bunch at the dollar store

aoeu
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wight wrote:
grantman321 wrote:
Mine are roughly 80mm from end to end. Came from the CNQ group buy.
I only checked one of mine, but it seems to be the same size as yours. I will get some 26700’s soon and see what happens.

Yep mine is too, but measuring thread to thread it’s 67.5mm which is the dimensions that count. Given that, any batteries longer cause issues

aw73
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Just got mine today and it is only 2.05 amps at the tail with one cell and 1.3 on 2s and .9 on 3s.

grantman321
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Based on my experience, that’s about right. Should be roughly 2.5A to the emitter on high with the stock driver with two or three cells. Voltage drop on one cell as measured with a DMM should be slightly lower.

“We are all worms, but I believe that I am a glow-worm.” – Winston Churchill

Tom E
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aw73 wrote:
Just got mine today and it is only 2.05 amps at the tail with one cell and 1.3 on 2s and .9 on 3s.

Post #77 here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/27889, I tested with various cells, all in the 2.45 to 2.52A range - bought from WallBuys. Are you sure you got a good DMM setup?

I just re-tested my latest Y3 from the GearBest group buy and measured 2.50A on one TF 26650 flame, and 1.25A on two TF 26650 flames. Are you using heavy DMM leads? The amp tail readings have been very consistent like this across all 5 Yezl Y3's I've gotten: 3 from WallBuys, 1 from CNQ, 1 from GearBest.

Again, the only reliable DMM setup is one with heavy wire custom made leads.

aw73
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Tom E wrote:

aw73 wrote:
Just got mine today and it is only 2.05 amps at the tail with one cell and 1.3 on 2s and .9 on 3s.

Post #77 here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/27889, I tested with various cells, all in the 2.45 to 2.52A range – bought from WallBuys. Are you sure you got a good DMM setup?

I just re-tested my latest Y3 from the GearBest group buy and measured 2.50A on one TF 26650 flame, and 1.25A on two TF 26650 flames. Are you using heavy DMM leads? The amp tail readings have been very consistent like this across all 5 Yezl Y3’s I’ve gotten: 3 from WallBuys, 1 from CNQ, 1 from GearBest.

Again, the only reliable DMM setup is one with heavy wire custom made leads.

I bought mine from GearBest. I have 12 ga. custom leads. My modded s8 measures 3.74 amps with the same meter. I have measured up to 5 amps with this meter. No wait thats not right, i have measured up to 7 amps with this meter.

I shorted the the r150 resistor and it only measured 2.63 amps on one cell, then i put 2 cells in and it blew the led.

Didnt you measure way over 3 amps with one cell after adding a r100 resistor in parallel?

Tom E
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Post #132 earlier is my R100 results, yes. However, looks like my R100 modified driver died one overnight - no idea what's wrong.

- not sure what's goin on with the one cell configuration there with yours. If it's true 2.05A stock, it's quite different from my 5 pieces and most others

- Yes - shorted resistors using a true buck driver is highly risky - not surprised you blew the LED.

aw73
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Ok thanks Tom!

Im not sure whats wrong either, but thats about my luck to get something different. I knew it would be risky on 2s, but i had to see since the measured amps on 1s was so low.

Unfortunately i dont have any R resistors at the moment in my stockpile of parts.

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Hhmm - my R100 resistor modded driver is now working - problem was it would come up in lo mode and mode changing didn't work. Looks like something flaky in the switch. I was able to get 3.36A measured, but that was on the bench with longer wires, etc. Not sure yet if it's worthwhile re-using it - I don't have a replacement switch solution because it's mounted on the PCB. Think guys have linked replacement PCB mounted switch's - dunno where.

aw73
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I had took the r150 resistor off and i lost it, but i found two r130 resistors and and soldered both on and now getting 3 amps on 1s and 2.53 amps on 2s. I had a dedomed xm-l2 that i put on.

wight
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aw73 wrote:
I had took the r150 resistor off and i lost it, but i found two r130 resistors and and soldered both on and now getting 3 amps on 1s and 2.53 amps on 2s. I had a dedomed xm-l2 that i put on.
To help you better understand what happened, think of shorting the sense resistor as putting the driver into DD. Because that’s what happened. Never short sense resistors.

EDIT: Based on your initial results and your modded results, your driver is (and was) operating just fine on 2s. Working on 1s is a pretty tricky situation for a buck driver like this, your driver was (and is) clearly failing to do that 100% properly. The QX9920 is uncommon in it’s ability to work on 1s – most buck controllers just can’t do it. It sounds like you got some bad luck with your driver (assuming your cells are fine). Normally I might suspect that the LED might have an unusually high Vf, but you’ve already had to replace the LED and are still seeing the same problem. I don’t know exactly where the issue might be, but checking the driver for any components that do not look exactly like Tom E’s pics would be a start.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

aw73
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wight wrote:
aw73 wrote:
I had took the r150 resistor off and i lost it, but i found two r130 resistors and and soldered both on and now getting 3 amps on 1s and 2.53 amps on 2s. I had a dedomed xm-l2 that i put on.
To help you better understand what happened, think of shorting the sense resistor as putting the driver into DD. Because that’s what happened. Never short sense resistors.

With them shorted it wasnt DD with 1s. Maybe with 2s. With it shorted it was only 2.63 amps on 1s. That was with the other led though.

aw73
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I guess im happy with the 3 amps on 1s and 2.53 on 2s, it is 1.53 on 3s. I am not happy with the dedomed led, even though the kcd is alot higher, the beam is to narrow for me, so i will get a new led soon or maybe a mt-g2.

How does the mt-g2 compare to the xm-l2 in this light Tom?

wight
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aw73 wrote:
wight wrote:
aw73 wrote:
I had took the r150 resistor off and i lost it, but i found two r130 resistors and and soldered both on and now getting 3 amps on 1s and 2.53 amps on 2s. I had a dedomed xm-l2 that i put on.
To help you better understand what happened, think of shorting the sense resistor as putting the driver into DD. Because that’s what happened. Never short sense resistors.

With them shorted it wasnt DD with 1s. Maybe with 2s. With it shorted it was only 2.63 amps on 1s. That was with the other led though.

DD in the sense that it applies the full battery voltage to the LED. There may have been some pulses of off mixed in there, but I think it’s very fair to say that the LED saw long pulses of the battery voltage. There’s also the inductor providing a little resistance. The controller will attempt to get it’s sense voltage to go up and be unable to since you shorted the resistor which generates the sense voltage. It’s not actually the same thing as a DD driver, but it is a direct connection between the LED and the battery [via the inductor]. TLDR: don’t do it.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

Tom E
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aw73 wrote:
I guess im happy with the 3 amps on 1s and 2.53 on 2s, it is 1.53 on 3s. I am not happy with the dedomed led, even though the kcd is alot higher, the beam is to narrow for me, so i will get a new led soon or maybe a mt-g2. How does the mt-g2 compare to the xm-l2 in this light Tom?

Well the MT-G2 turns the beam into more like a good 3 LED light, but the tint and general profile of the beam, to me, is the classic MT-G2 everyone raves about - nice tint, nice single emitter pattern, etc. I measured throw at 43.5 kcd in my 2,329 OTF lumens, 4.6A setup. I would think is the ballpark for being in a thrower host, but could be better because I know the lumens is low and the reflector is rattling - not tweaked to fit well and focused.

wight
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FWIW aw73 you may run into the same problems w/ an MT-G2 on 2s that you ran into with an XM-L2 on 1s. You might not too, I sure don’t know. Sounds like you’ve got enough extensions to deal with that anyway.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

aw73
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Ok thanks Tom!

Tom E
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I updated the OP at the top. Trying to help people find things - dunno if it helps much. This thread has gone all over the place, not such a bad thing though... Smile

aw73
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wight wrote:
FWIW aw73 you may run into the same problems w/ an MT-G2 on 2s that you ran into with an XM-L2 on 1s. You might not too, I sure don’t know. Sounds like you’ve got enough extensions to deal with that anyway.

I will probably run it on 2s mostly.

I need to get off my butt and do some things outside, its so beautiful down south today. Mid 70s for the high temp today instead of 90s just a few days ago. Great day to be fishing!

will34
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I’m thinking about the Y3 and do the MTG2 swap.

Can anyone confirm if the noctigon is a direct fit, or requires a slight raise to press against the reflector?

Thanks

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will34 wrote:
I'm thinking about the Y3 and do the MTG2 swap. Can anyone confirm if the noctigon is a direct fit, or requires a slight raise to press against the reflector? Thanks

Post #425 here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/33066 has details. Yes, you need to do something - shim the MCPCB or you can follow what aoeu did - see this thread's OP - Post #145 description.

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Tom E wrote:
aw73 wrote:
I guess im happy with the 3 amps on 1s and 2.53 on 2s, it is 1.53 on 3s. I am not happy with the dedomed led, even though the kcd is alot higher, the beam is to narrow for me, so i will get a new led soon or maybe a mt-g2. How does the mt-g2 compare to the xm-l2 in this light Tom?
Well the MT-G2 turns the beam into more like a good 3 LED light, but the tint and general profile of the beam, to me, is the classic MT-G2 everyone raves about - nice tint, nice single emitter pattern, etc. I measured throw at 43.5 kcd in my 2,329 OTF lumens, 4.6A setup. I would think is the ballpark for being in a thrower host, but could be better because I know the lumens is low and the reflector is rattling - not tweaked to fit well and focused.

How did it handle the heat as at 4.6 amps it should start getting hot quickly?

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Tom E
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Yes it did heat up quick with the MT-G2, not sure how it did over several minutes. I don't have it configured like that anymore - it's back to a XM-L2 U2 1A on a 26mm MaxToch. I fixed the switch problem - the driver fits a little loose so the driver mounted switch can get out of position a little, or pushed back with use. So I jammed in some copper braid on the edge of the driver, opposite side of the switch and seems to be working 100% again. The R100 mod is holding up well. Here's my results:

Single KK4000 cell, 3.30A tail, lumens: 1,112 @start, 1,081 @30 secs, throw: 79 kcd measured at 5m

Two KP 26650's, 2.70A tail,  lumens: 1,380 @start, 1,343 @30 secs, throw: 100 kcd measured at 5m

 

Note: all my lumens and kcd measurements are my own taken on a older LX1330B meter - kcd taken indoors and lumens in a PVC constructed lightbox, accuracy can be freely debated Smile

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You weren't happy with the MTG or just experimenting?

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Tom E
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MRsDNF wrote:

You weren't happy with the MTG or just experimenting?

Can't recall (I'm bad), think the MT-G2 died? There were so many things goin on here with the R100 resistor - if it works single cell, etc., so decided to go to a MaxToch 26 with XM-L2 in that unit. That MT-G2 LED I've had a long time, and it's been re-flowed a couple of times - just not sure if it was ok. I think the MT-G2 was shorting on the reflector, so not sure if it's fried. Didn't know I should have used kapton tape or something - didn't know what was commonly done to mount these... I pulled it off the Noctigon - but again, totally forgot what the problem was. Think I was gonna xfer it to a MaxToch MCPCB... But I did just get in a new bare MT-G2 from KD ($14.50), so will probably use this with a custom zener mod driver - probably a BLF17DD, and mod another Y3.

boffid
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I upgraded mine for MT-G2 (6V). I drilled the reflector hole a bit larger as well as the original white plastic spacer that was over the led. I used the white piece as an insulator wit MT-G2. It works well, I did not try to optimize spaser any further because during tighening it seems to get pretty good already.

I replaced the original sense resistors with 3 x R100 in parallel (ie. about 33mOhms). It measures about 3.6-3.8A at the tail with two 26650 cells. I’ve not used it for long periods, but for occational use it is one heck of a light now. The beam is somewhat large but it brightens up quite a long large area now. It does get warm in use, I’m not sure if it would take constant full power in summer temperatures.

(I modded another with noctilux XML2 and 2.45A current at tailcap with two cells which should equal about 4-5A at led.)

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@boffid: Am I reading correctly that you pulled both the R150 and R180 and replaced them with three R100’s? Was that for both lights? Any chance you measured current at the LED? I thought some of the other guys were seeing currents similar to your MT-G2 light with the R150 + R180 + 2x R100’s. I’ve got one modded with one R100 added that’s pulling roughly the same current as your XM-L2 (mine has a dedomed XM-L2).

So… are the currents going up with lower total resistance or with more? As I’ve said before, my understanding of modding existing drivers is pretty limited.

“We are all worms, but I believe that I am a glow-worm.” – Winston Churchill

boffid
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Original resistors removed and replaced with 3×0.1R resistors in parallel for my MT-G2 3.6-3.8A drawing mod.
Originals kept (0R150 and 0R180) and R150 or R180 added in parallel for my XM-L2 mod drawing 2.45A or so.
(Both with two cells)

Unmodded version drew about 2,4A with one cell and less with two cells.

Sorry, no measurement on the led but assuming a reasonable efficiency one can do rough estimates. Both are bright enough for my use.

wight
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grantman321 wrote:
@boffid: Am I reading correctly that you pulled both the R150 and R180 and replaced them with three R100’s? Was that for both lights? Any chance you measured current at the LED? I thought some of the other guys were seeing currents similar to your MT-G2 light with the R150 + R180 + 2x R100’s. I’ve got one modded with one R100 added that’s pulling roughly the same current as your XM-L2 (mine has a dedomed XM-L2).

So… are the currents going up with lower total resistance or with more? As I’ve said before, my understanding of modding existing drivers is pretty limited.

Less sense resistance gives higher output current. I’ve got to write a sticky on this I guess.

In most cases, including this one, the math is very straightforward. First you must calculate the total resistance: use a parallel resistor calculator and remember that the ‘R’ is a decimal point, so R100 is 0.1 Ohms. Second you must plug the total resistance into the appropriate formula – for this QX9920 based driver it’s [ Iout = 0.25 / Rsense ] where Iout is current to the LED and Rsense is the total resistance of the sense resistor bank. And then you’re done: that’s the target current, figured out in 2 steps!

Remember that we are setting the target current. For XM-L2 (& similar voltage) especially affects single-cell applications with this driver since it will have a lower maximum current in single-cell applications when compared to a DD driver. So for currents above 3-4A I’d guess you’ll only see the target current on 2s or more. This same logic applies to MT-G2 on 2s instead of 1s: it will be limited to lower than DD performance on 2s.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

grantman321
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Gotcha. Thank you for the explanation — that is very helpful. I’m totally new to modifying buck drivers as of these two Y3 builds… everything I’ve done so far with flashlight drivers has been either stacking 7135s or building BLFDD drivers from bare oshpark boards or following zener mod instructions from RMM. Makes a lot more sense now.

“We are all worms, but I believe that I am a glow-worm.” – Winston Churchill

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