Nichia 219BT-V1, R9080 Warm White, 2700K is available

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id30209
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RamBull wrote:
What do you guys think of the e GT-FC40 A4 bin 4500k or C3 bin 4000k?

 

I am installing A4 in every possible host i can find...

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

JaredM
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Are these tint comparisons done with the AR coated lens installed?

Lightenzaza
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How can they not be ?

Caught a sickness . I found out i'm not alone .
p12gt, tn12v4, s1, tk15, s2+, pd35tac, fd65, tk35 ue 2018, d4v2, kr4, kr1vn, d4sv2, fw3a, x9l, sp31v2.0, sp32av2.0, sp36blf, sp40, lt1, sp31uv, sc31pro, sc21, hs05, e07, e07x, tk18, pt40

JaredM
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One example could be comparing a reflector and AR lens vs a TIR only setup

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I measured my D4v2 219b sw35 (fully assembled with AR coated glass installed)

CCT: 3590K | CRI: 96 | R9: 90 | Duv: 0.001

My KR4 with E21A 3500K is around Duv -0.0026 (also with AR glass installed). I’ll look it up when I get home from work and post TM-30 reports for both.

*Edit
Corrected E21A info

Lightenzaza
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That make sense, only slightly rosy and only slightly greeny .

Caught a sickness . I found out i'm not alone .
p12gt, tn12v4, s1, tk15, s2+, pd35tac, fd65, tk35 ue 2018, d4v2, kr4, kr1vn, d4sv2, fw3a, x9l, sp31v2.0, sp32av2.0, sp36blf, sp40, lt1, sp31uv, sc31pro, sc21, hs05, e07, e07x, tk18, pt40

Forsythe P. Jones
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I have 219c 4500k in my d4v2 and don’t see any green or pink. I find myself wanting warmer CCT and might try for 3500K next time. What I really want is exact duplication of the original Nichia 083. Does anyone know what CCT that had? Maybe purists would complain of a yellow cast, but for me, that light was so beautiful I can never forget it.

I have another light (Fenix BC21R) with USB charging and I find it handy, and I know there are now some 18650s (really about 70mm long) that have their own charge port and can deliver high current, so I’ve been wanting an 18700 tube to accommodate them. That was also to be able to interchange batteries with the Fenix. But now find the Fenix works ok on unprotected flat tops, and the Fenix-branded battery that I have is low current, so the 18700 tube becomes less important in both directions.

I looked at the K1 charge port on the web site but don’t understand how it works. As for rubber seals etc., I guess I’d want to know how the most rugged lights (caving, military etc.) deal with this question. Maybe they also only support external charging.

I’m here mostly from the software side of things so Emisar/Noctilux are the only brand of this style of 18650 pushbutton light that I’m willing to buy right now, because of the relative ease of reflashing. The main thing I hope for in a future version is some kind of computer communication, instead of configuring the light by clicking something 15 times. The new generation AVR’s (t1616 etc.) also are easier to reflash, so maybe the next generation of lights will use them.

Rayoui
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The K1 charge port is machined into the threads of the battery tube on the side that screws into the head. You must remove the head of the light to access the port. It’s inboard of the o-ring so it stays sealed when the light is assembled.

Forsythe P. Jones
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Oh I see, nice, the charging electronics are in the tube then. I guess it makes swappable tubes more complicated but for the K1 maybe that doesn’t matter. OTOH it means you could swap a micro-USB tube for a USB-C tube. Nice again.

Hank Wang
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Dear Germany customers,

Recently, many packages to Germany show the tracking status “No one available to receive the item, the package will be returned to sender”.
Actually, those packages have not passed German customs, and will be returned to UK sorting center, so, they will not be returned
to China. In the mean time, some packages did pass through the German customs and have been delivered to the customers sucessfully, so, we have no idea why those packages were refused by German customs. I think it’s related to the Brexit since all the package to Germany are handled via Royal mail in UK, but it’s only assumption.

Anyway, those packages are on the way back to UK sorting center.

So, our plan is to resend those packages as soon as we find a better shipping method to Germany.
It should take us 2 weeks (till the end of September) to handle this issue, and resend those package.

In the mean time, if you can not wait, you could also request refund for the orders.

Sorry for the inconvenience.

https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.

Rayoui
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Rayoui wrote:
I measured my D4v2 219b sw35 (fully assembled with AR coated glass installed)

CCT: 3590K | CRI: 96 | R9: 90 | Duv: 0.001

My KR4 with E21A 3500K is around Duv -0.0026 (also with AR glass installed). I’ll look it up when I get home from work and post TM-30 reports for both.

CCT CRI (Ra) R9 Duv
219b sw35 3570K 96 89 0.0012
E21A 3500K 3530K 96 84 -0.0026

219b sw35 TM-30
E21A 3500K TM-30

JaredM
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Thanks Rayoui. Duv is looking significantly better on e21a. Are these using the same frosted optic?

Just my opinion, but in low light and without a daylight ambient reference, about -0.0015 seems actually “neutral.” Duv = 0 light almost always appears greenish still in my experience. +0.0012 is slicing or mixing territory.

funwok
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Hank Wang wrote:
Dear Germany customers,

Recently, many packages to Germany show the tracking status “No one available to receive the item, the package will be returned to sender”.
Actually, those packages have not passed German customs, and will be returned to UK sorting center, so, they will not be returned
to China. In the mean time, some packages did pass through the German customs and have been delivered to the customers sucessfully, so, we have no idea why those packages were refused by German customs. I think it’s related to the Brexit since all the package to Germany are handled via Royal mail in UK, but it’s only assumption.

Anyway, those packages are on the way back to UK sorting center.

So, our plan is to resend those packages as soon as we find a better shipping method to Germany.
It should take us 2 weeks (till the end of September) to handle this issue, and resend those package.

In the mean time, if you can not wait, you could also request refund for the orders.

Sorry for the inconvenience.

Thank you Hank for the update!

Rayoui
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JaredM wrote:
Thanks Rayoui. Duv is looking significantly better on e21a. Are these using the same frosted optic?

Just my opinion, but in low light and without a daylight ambient reference, about -0.0015 seems actually “neutral.” Duv = 0 light almost always appears greenish still in my experience. +0.0012 is slicing or mixing territory.

The D4v2 with 219b has the narrow spot optic (10622) and the KR4 with E21A has the frosted optic (10623).

These 219b don’t appear too offensively green when I use the light on its own without any other source for comparison. To my eyes, 3500K is a color temp that seems to make slightly greenish tints appear more acceptable for some reason (as opposed to 4000K which seems to accentuate greenish tints). I noticed the E21A also appears to saturate colors a bit more than the 219b.

JaredM
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If you wouldn’t mind, I’d be curious how the 219b responded to the frosted optic. My bet is duv drops by maybe 0.0005. My hypothesis is the back scattered light acts like a very mild recycling collar.

Hank Wang
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Tint ramping version Noctigon K9.3 is available.
The FET turbo mode is still valid for the non E21A version.

https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.

JaredM
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id30209 wrote:

RamBull wrote:
What do you guys think of the e GT-FC40 A4 bin 4500k or C3 bin 4000k?

 


I am installing A4 in every possible host i can find…

Where are these bins sourced?

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Hank Wang wrote:
Tint ramping version Noctigon K9.3 is available. The FET turbo mode is still valid for the non E21A version.

Just a quick note for anyone buying one: It’s kind of an early build, and likely to be updated in the future, so I’d recommend making sure you have a firmware flashing kit if you get this new K9.3.

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Is this just a software change? Would the standard K9.3 have the same functionality if flashed with the tint-ramping version of Anduril 2?

Hank Wang
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Rayoui wrote:
Is this just a software change? Would the standard K9.3 have the same functionality if flashed with the tint-ramping version of Anduril 2?
It’s only software change, the standard K9.3 have the same functionality if flashed with the tint-ramping version of Anduril 2

https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.

iamlucky13
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Hank Wang wrote:
Tint ramping version Noctigon K9.3 is available. The FET turbo mode is still valid for the non E21A version.

That sounds like a really great improvement that adds a lot of flexibility to the use of the light.

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Noctigon K9.3 with tint-ramping sounds interesting … but too big for me.

If only they made a D4V2 with tint-ramping.

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Firelight2 wrote:
Noctigon K9.3 with tint-ramping sounds interesting … but too big for me.

If only they made a D4V2 with tint-ramping.


A D4V2 with tint ramping and option for E21A R9080 5000K/2000K would make me buy my fourth D4 Cool
Forsythe P. Jones
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Quote:
A D4V2 with tint ramping
Afaict this would require a driver redesign since there would suddenly have to be separate channels for the led colors. It couldn’t be by just changing the leds and software, like on the K9.3. It’s intriguing though.
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djozz wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
Noctigon K9.3 with tint-ramping sounds interesting … but too big for me.

If only they made a D4V2 with tint-ramping.


A D4V2 with tint ramping and option for E21A R9080 5000K/2000K would make me buy my fourth D4 Cool

Agree,with firefly mode
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Sari33 wrote:
djozz wrote:
A D4V2 with tint ramping …
Agree,with firefly mode

It already has a firefly mode. Set the aux LEDs on low mode.

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Forsythe P. Jones wrote:
Quote:
A D4V2 with tint ramping
Afaict this would require a driver redesign since there would suddenly have to be separate channels for the led colors. It couldn’t be by just changing the leds and software, like on the K9.3. It’s intriguing though.

Not much redesign would be needed.

Anduril 2 already supports tint ramping. You might need another contact pad on the driver for the extra wire to the star, but that should be the extent of changes to the driver.

A new quad star would need to be made with 2 of the main LEDs on each channel. But making a new star shouldn’t be difficult. Such stars already exist on the Sofirn IF25 and Lumintop FW4X.

It should not be necessary to make any changes to the aux board, though it might be cramped connecting the extra wire around it. However, if that became a problem I’d rather have tint ramping than the aux led board anyways. Just ditch the aux board. The light could still have aux LEDs in the switch to make it easy to find at night.

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Of course it needs hardware changes.. it would need two regulated power channels, currently it only has one. K9.3 already had two + two led channels, hence the firmware change only.

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Firelight2 wrote:
Not much redesign would be needed. … You might need another contact pad on the driver for the extra wire to the star, but that should be the extent of changes to the driver.

That’s not the extent of changes needed for the driver. It needs an entire second power circuit, isolated from the first one… and it’s already a tight fit with just one.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
Not much redesign would be needed. … You might need another contact pad on the driver for the extra wire to the star, but that should be the extent of changes to the driver.

That’s not the extent of changes needed for the driver. It needs an entire second power circuit, isolated from the first one… and it’s already a tight fit with just one.

Ok. Good to know.

Still… if Lumintop can fit it into an FW4X with similar sized driver, and if Mecarmy can fit it into a PS14 with a narrower diameter driver, it should be possible to fit this into a D4V2.

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