21700 D4KTi COLORFUL version is available

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Jensen
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I got my cyan D1 with 2700K B35AM yesterday and really like it but I think there is a problem with the drivers, or just mine isn’t functioning correctly. The LED smokes when at the highest level of the ramp. I had to take off the bezel/lens and clean the MCPCB and LED with alcohol and cotton swabs in case there was some flux getting hot and smoking, but even with it really clean, the LED still smokes. Setting the top of the ramp at 10 levels below max and disabling turbo seems to have “fixed” this but I really hope I didn’t damage the LED somehow. I remember reading about Convoy lights having this same problem because of the B35AM being driven too hard so I hope it can be fixed with something simple like new firmware.

thefreeman
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Jensen wrote:
I got my cyan D1 with 2700K B35AM yesterday and really like it but I think there is a problem with the drivers, or just mine isn’t functioning correctly. The LED smokes when at the highest level of the ramp. I had to take off the bezel/lens and clean the MCPCB and LED with alcohol and cotton swabs in case there was some flux getting hot and smoking, but even with it really clean, the LED still smokes. Setting the top of the ramp at 10 levels below max and disabling turbo seems to have “fixed” this but I really hope I didn’t damage the LED somehow. I remember reading about Convoy lights having this same problem because of the B35AM being driven too hard so I hope it can be fixed with something simple like new firmware.

This seems to be the first report of such problem on Emisar-Noctigon lights, the MCPCB used by Hank has clearly better dielectric thermal resistance than Convoy’s since it is driven at 3.6A (IIRC hand) and there hasn’t been any problems before yours, whereas Convoy had issues at 3A. Perhaps it is a bad reflow.

Jensen
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thefreeman wrote:
Jensen wrote:
I got my cyan D1 with 2700K B35AM yesterday and really like it but I think there is a problem with the drivers, or just mine isn’t functioning correctly. The LED smokes when at the highest level of the ramp. I had to take off the bezel/lens and clean the MCPCB and LED with alcohol and cotton swabs in case there was some flux getting hot and smoking, but even with it really clean, the LED still smokes. Setting the top of the ramp at 10 levels below max and disabling turbo seems to have “fixed” this but I really hope I didn’t damage the LED somehow. I remember reading about Convoy lights having this same problem because of the B35AM being driven too hard so I hope it can be fixed with something simple like new firmware.

This seems to be the first report of such problem on Emisar-Noctigon lights, the MCPCB used by Hank has clearly better dielectric thermal resistance than Convoy’s since it is driven at 3.6A (IIRC hand) and there hasn’t been any problems before yours, whereas Convoy had issues at 3A. Perhaps it is a bad reflow.

Ok, I’ll ask Hank about this, maybe he can send me a new LED.

alumenum
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Does anyone know if the 12A+FET driver from the DM1.12 is available as single channel config, and as something you could ask for in the single-channel D4V2/DW4/KR4? Or is it larger and therefore only available in the other larger lights like the DM11 or D4SV2?

12A would be a pretty nice upgrade in regulated output from 9A.

kokosnh
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hey Hank, can you add on your website somewhere, in the description of the flashlight, or directly in the drop down color menu.
What type of finish is each color of the flashlight.  Like HA III if it's Hard Coat Anodize type III, and HA if it's just hard-coat anodizing, and so on.

tactical_grizzly
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alumenum wrote:
Does anyone know if the 12A+FET driver from the DM1.12 is available as single channel config, and as something you could ask for in the single-channel D4V2/DW4/KR4? Or is it larger and therefore only available in the other larger lights like the DM11 or D4SV2?

12A would be a pretty nice upgrade in regulated output from 9A.

Hank confirmed he can so 12A by request on D4SV2 over on Reddit, and I imagine he can do that for other lights too.

aginthelaw
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Anyone know what the coating is on the d1.12, specifically the white ones?

never fear shadows…it means a light shines nearby

xevious
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Thinking of getting the DM 1.12 with SFT-40 in center and SST-20 4000K for perimeter… It’s another $20 for having the 219BT-V1, R9080 4500K on the perimeter. Is that worth doing, or would it be a negligible difference?
(I just wish the dedomed 519A wasn’t so steep… that’s another $50 USD).

CRC2
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Accidental edit. Ignore.

Not too long ago, I received my first two D4SV2’s, and one of them has a slight gap around the buttons retaining ring.
Im wondering if this is a concern regarding water resistance?
Im a bit worried about using this light in the rain.

I also wonder if this has anything to do with why when the aux are set to low, the four lights under the button have one brighter than the other three.
My other one has a perfectly seated retaining ring, and all four button lights are exactly the same brightness.
Not a huge deal. They both work perfectly otherwise. But its kind of annoying.

nick779
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CRC2 wrote:
Not too long ago, I received my first two D4SV2’s, and one of them has a slight gap around the buttons retaining ring.
Im wondering if this is a concern regarding water resistance?
Im a bit worried about using this light in the rain.

I also wonder if this has anything to do with why when the aux are set to low, the four lights under the button have one brighter than the other three.
My other one has a perfectly seated retaining ring, and all four button lights are exactly the same brightness.
Not a huge deal. They both work perfectly otherwise. But its kind of annoying.

I can’t comment on the retaining ring clearances, but those look like warm white button LEDs and it’s been widely established that the brightness not being even is normal specifically for that color.

scs
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Can the back-lit button on the D1v2 be turned off? I don't need it on when the light is not in use and I most definitely don't want it on when the light is in use; annoying as hell. Does Hank offer the option to have a regular, non-back-lit button with the black boot?

Auxilshunter
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If it runs Anduril, 7 clicks ought to get it flashing, then another round for off

xevious
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CRC2 wrote:
My other one has a perfectly seated retaining ring, and all four button lights are exactly the same brightness.
Not a huge deal. They both work perfectly otherwise. But its kind of annoying.
I think it looks kind of cool. You lucked out that it happened to be the LED on the “bottom end” of the switch as the light tailstands. If it was on the sides… much more “askew” looking.
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scs wrote:

Can the back-lit button on the D1v2 be turned off? I don’t need it on when the light is not in use and I most definitely don’t want it on when the light is in use; annoying as hell. Does Hank offer the option to have a regular, non-back-lit button with the black boot?

7 clicks from off will cycle what mode the button is in while the light is off. The modes are low, high, blinking, and off.

You cannot change its behavior while the light is on unless you flash a custom firmware that specifically disables the switch LED while on.

Hank should be able to easily install a regular non-lighted switch and even a black switch boot via email request before your order ships.

scs
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tactical_grizzly wrote:
scs wrote:

Can the back-lit button on the D1v2 be turned off? I don't need it on when the light is not in use and I most definitely don't want it on when the light is in use; annoying as hell. Does Hank offer the option to have a regular, non-back-lit button with the black boot?

7 clicks from off will cycle what mode the button is in while the light is off. The modes are low, high, blinking, and off. You cannot change its behavior while the light is on unless you flash a custom firmware that specifically disables the switch LED while on. Hank should be able to easily install a regular non-lighted switch and even a black switch boot via email request before your order ships.

 

Thank you.

kokosnh
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CRC2 wrote:
the four lights under the button have one brighter than the other three. My other one has a perfectly seated retaining ring, and all four button lights are exactly the same brightness. Not a huge deal. They both work perfectly otherwise. But its kind of annoying. !{width:33%}https://i.imgur.com/Jzgfoym.jpg!

You got lucky that it's bottom one.
I got one on the side, that is dimmer. I Asked hank about it, and received this answer

"It's normal for this small LEDs to have different brightness, since they have different VF value." 

from my understanding Its peculiar bad with the warm white. 
That's why for next purchases I chosed cold white.
Testing them is probably to much labor intensive 

And yes, it's worst in reality, then in the pictures...    

Mark M
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The amber color comes out really good, very even brightness. Also very dim when on low which is great at night.

mcflies
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Hi Hank. Random question. How do you prevent particles from getting on the reflectors/lens when you assemble? Is your lab pressurized? Any recommendations to help prevent contamination? Thanks.

xevious
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Mark M wrote:
The amber color comes out really good, very even brightness. Also very dim when on low which is great at night.
Good to know that. I think I’m going to go amber instead of warm white.
Hank Wang
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thefreeman wrote:
Jensen wrote:
I got my cyan D1 with 2700K B35AM yesterday and really like it but I think there is a problem with the drivers, or just mine isn’t functioning correctly. The LED smokes when at the highest level of the ramp. I had to take off the bezel/lens and clean the MCPCB and LED with alcohol and cotton swabs in case there was some flux getting hot and smoking, but even with it really clean, the LED still smokes. Setting the top of the ramp at 10 levels below max and disabling turbo seems to have “fixed” this but I really hope I didn’t damage the LED somehow. I remember reading about Convoy lights having this same problem because of the B35AM being driven too hard so I hope it can be fixed with something simple like new firmware.

This seems to be the first report of such problem on Emisar-Noctigon lights, the MCPCB used by Hank has clearly better dielectric thermal resistance than Convoy’s since it is driven at 3.6A (IIRC hand) and there hasn’t been any problems before yours, whereas Convoy had issues at 3A. Perhaps it is a bad reflow.


I think this is the common issue for the B35AM LED itself, the MCPCB is the best that we can produce, and there is no soldering issue whatever.
The LED will not die at high current (3.6A), but the smoke will come out on turbo mode.
We plan to reduce the current of the B35AM LED, this is the only way to prevent the smoke, only that the output will be reduced as well unfortunately.

https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.

m03da
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xevious wrote:
I think I’m going to go amber instead of warm white.

It looks great too, especially on a cyan body imo!

Hank Wang
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thefreeman wrote:
Hank Wang wrote:
zak.wilson wrote:
I was just suggesting the DW4 with SST-20 660nm to a friend for darkroom use. I’m curious as to why the boost driver can’t be used with those emitters. Vf too low?
It does work actually, only that the moon mode is just too bright, almost like medium mode, so, you can only ramp from medium to high mode, other than that, it works fine, I assume it’s because of the low VF.

One resistor needs to be changed for the output voltage to swing across the lower voltage range of red LEDs. The current range is about 8.5V to 14.5V (simulated with the resistor values), fine for white LEDs but doesn’t go low enough for red LEDs.

I talked about it in several comments in this Reddit thread


Thanks for the information, we have changed the resistors on the driver, now the SST-20 deep red LEDs work perfectly fine with the boost driver.

https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.

Hank Wang
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UV 5W 365nm with ZWB2 filter is available for D1

https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.

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Hank Wang wrote:
UV 5W 365nm with ZWB2 filter is available for D1 !https://www.noctigon.com/image/catalog/KR1/IMG_4279_1100px.jpg!

Very cool! Will this be an option for KR1 as well? What driver is being used for the UV emitter?

Hank Wang
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tactical_grizzly wrote:
Hank Wang wrote:
UV 5W 365nm with ZWB2 filter is available for D1 !https://www.noctigon.com/image/catalog/KR1/IMG_4279_1100px.jpg!

Very cool! Will this be an option for KR1 as well? What driver is being used for the UV emitter?


Yes, just added the options for KR1.
It’s linear 1.5A driver.

https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.

puglife2
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when D1S ? Big Smile

thefreeman
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Hank Wang wrote:
thefreeman wrote:

One resistor needs to be changed for the output voltage to swing across the lower voltage range of red LEDs. The current range is about 8.5V to 14.5V (simulated with the resistor values), fine for white LEDs but doesn’t go low enough for red LEDs.

I talked about it in several comments in this Reddit thread


Thanks for the information, we have changed the resistors on the driver, now the SST-20 deep red LEDs work perfectly fine with the boost driver.
Thumbs Up
maba
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D4SV2 / KR1 / D1 v2 / D4 Thumbs Up

NoneTheWiser
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puglife2 wrote:
when D1S ? Big Smile

Here is a link to a review of the D1S from 2017.

kokosnh
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Hank Wang wrote:
thefreeman wrote:
Jensen wrote:
I got my cyan D1 with 2700K B35AM yesterday and really like it but I think there is a problem with the drivers, or just mine isn't functioning correctly. The LED smokes when at the highest level of the ramp. I had to take off the bezel/lens and clean the MCPCB and LED with alcohol and cotton swabs in case there was some flux getting hot and smoking, but even with it really clean, the LED still smokes. Setting the top of the ramp at 10 levels below max and disabling turbo seems to have "fixed" this but I really hope I didn't damage the LED somehow. I remember reading about Convoy lights having this same problem because of the B35AM being driven too hard so I hope it can be fixed with something simple like new firmware.
This seems to be the first report of such problem on Emisar-Noctigon lights, the MCPCB used by Hank has clearly better dielectric thermal resistance than Convoy’s since it is driven at 3.6A (IIRC hand) and there hasn’t been any problems before yours, whereas Convoy had issues at 3A. Perhaps it is a bad reflow. 
I think this is the common issue for the B35AM LED itself, the MCPCB is the best that we can produce, and there is no soldering issue whatever. The LED will not die at high current (3.6A), but the smoke will come out on turbo mode. We plan to reduce the current of the B35AM LED, this is the only way to prevent the smoke, only that the output will be reduced as well unfortunately.


Well just received My D1 mini B35AM 4000K (cold white aux), and I can confirm that it's smoking on turbo. But to be honest it doesn't bothering me at all. It even look nice, as the smoke swirls inside the reflector.
There's a visible tint shift, from low to high mode. opple measured around 250K shift, from around 3800K on low to around 4050K on high. opple isn't very accurate, so I average it measurements (take it with a grain of salt).

Turbo  - 5.6A
Moon  - 7030µA
Aux off  - 67µA
Aux on Low  -  76µA
Aux on High  - 260µA
it jumps +200µA every 8 seconds or so for brif moment, from my understanding, that's just the driver waking up to check the voltage.




And well, to be honest, it's not so smaller than my 21700 flashlights... 
the beam is quite nice, but the spill diameter is rather tight compared to my other flashlights.

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