Unno.
I want to share my D10 mod with 519A and then a 45 Degree TIR with lightly frosted film (3M Gift-Wrap Tape)
519A 5700K with 3535 centering gasket and stock reflector
Reflector beam profile from side
Reflector beam profile, notice the distinct hotspot and spill cut off, not ideal for headlamps
45 Degrees TIR clear + 3M Gift-Wrap Tape at surface, which gives it a lightly frosted appearance. The tape is sandwiched between TIR and glass lens. I kept the stock glass lens and gasket for water tightness and its height is just right for the TIR to press against the MCPCB to the host.
TIR beam profile from side
TIR beam profile, smooth hotspot to spill and no distinct cutoff. The spill fills entire field of vision. Very useful for both close-up works and outdoor walking in the dark.
This is one of the longest running threads on the mighty BLF that stays current. It will be 5 years running on Feb. 3rd!
Over 55,000 reads.
So many ways to upgrade this headlamp, it’s like the Chevy small block of flashlights 
I love reading all the mods.
Great job starting this garrybunk!
Why not just put a 45 degree TIR matte? I think the beam should be the same.
Seller sent me wrong pack of lenses. All of them turned out to be pebbled. I had to sand the pebble off from a pack of TIR lenses and it made the front surface way too rough (180 -> 400 grit wet sanding). A layer of tape made it more transparent and the frost this tape provides is perfect for correcting beam artefacts while preserving the beam profile so I stuck with it, LOL. The matte TIR might be too matte and smears the beam more than I like anyway. And pebbled TIR made the beam way too weak so I had to increase the brightness all the time when using it to do handy work.
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Does the driver side screw clockwise or counter-clockwise? I’m trying to open my D25LR but I’m not having any luck. I opened a D10 before but forgot and it’s not with me anymore so I can’t check.
D10s counter-clockwise.
I would assume that the D25LR should be the same right? Probably over glued then…
Edit: Nevermind found the answer a few posts back. Thanks!
This is sort-of related to the venerable D10, so I thought I might ask:
Does the D10 driver have separate pads to connect to the charging board? Looking through the thread, there appears to be only two pads for the LED and the charging board.
I was thinking about buying a D10 to replace the board in my Boruit HP100 (and remove the horrid strobe in the mode sequence), as the driver appears to be pretty similar. However, the Hp100’s driver has an extra pair of pads (labeled P1 and P2, assuming for the port) that attach to the charging board, and I want to double-check if installing the D10 board could retain the charging capability of the light. Thanks.
Modified the driver from FET + resistor to 7135x4.
Removed 2 x FET and 3 x resistors
Put in 4x 7135 regulators in parallel (3 on board, 1 stacked)
Connected the MCU PWM pin to 7135 VCC
The mod looks very ghetto, but it works and is minimally invasive so it is fully reversable LOL. The only thing you need is a couple of 7135 regulators and a pair of steady hands.
Lost lowest mode due to 7135 slower response with fast PWM
Tested output current with 519A 5000K
D10 7135x3 modes
0 0mA -
1 10mA 3lm
2 170mA 52lm
3 440mA 140lm
4 1070mA 330lm
D10 7135x4 modes
0 0mA -
1 20mA 6lm
2 200mA 65lm
3 560mA 187lm
4 1310mA 430lm
Now it has fully regulated output and is fairly efficient. At under 60% battery capacity it is actually brighter than stock FET setup and now at level 2 it gives 65lm regulated output for over 17 hours and level 3 187lm regulated output for over 6 hours with a 3400mAh battery. That is a lot better than stock where at full battery it runs hot and the output keeps dropping.
Level 4 (highest level) has a timed step down of 5 minutes from 100% output to 50% due to MCU programming. Level 3 is 40% PWM, level 2 is 15% PWM and level 1 is 1.5% PWM effectively with 7135 turn on delay. The mode spacing is pretty good after mod.
To me the modded driver output is better than most budget headlamps on the market. Alone with a 519A emitter and TIR swap it beats 90% headlamps in terms of real-world usability IMO.
3 Thanks
For price and capability for modding beats 95% .Probably no alternative at all 
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Just bought a H25LR and plan to replace the MCPCB resistors to 7135s. Wish me luck! 
They’re showing at $6 USD (without shipping) again on AliExpress. They went up in price for a while from what I recall, now they’re back down again. Maybe some Chinese New Year deal.
Approx $7.50 shipped.
That would be pretty neat
Hey, I’m all for it. I’ve yet to find a better budget headlamp than the D10. I just got the Sofirn H25LR today. Although that deep red LED is cool, everything else is crap. They managed to cheapen the construction 10x and now everything except the host body is flimsy plastic. I’m not even sure if I can take it apart without destroying it completely. Pretty disappointed. I’m gonna order a couple more D10 before it is “cost optimized” too. A driver replacement is exactly what it needs. Do you ship internationally? I’m in NZ.
Same, I would get one too if he made them. Maybe a couple.
You talking probably about H10 - H25. It looks like D model but made off pure chinesium.
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Fu#k, I got duped thinking I got a deal buying the H25LR.