FW3A Troubleshooting / FAQ

741 posts / 0 new
Last post
JasonWW
JasonWW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 19 min ago
Joined: 10/22/2016 - 11:41
Posts: 10900
Location: Houston Texas

Standard procedure for any new flashlight is to make sure all threaded parts are tight. Things tend to loosen during shipping Wink

Lexel
Lexel's picture
Online
Last seen: 3 min 23 sec ago
Joined: 11/01/2016 - 08:00
Posts: 5145
Location: Germany
JasonWW wrote:
Standard procedure for any new flashlight is to make sure all threaded parts are tight. Things tend to loosen during shipping Wink

its not the shipping its the boss telling their worker: “assemble faster or you get fired”

teacher
teacher's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 48 min ago
Joined: 02/23/2016 - 19:04
Posts: 9317
Location: NE & SW Alabama

Most likely…. Wink

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

steel_1024
steel_1024's picture
Offline
Last seen: 29 min 14 sec ago
Joined: 10/17/2016 - 14:06
Posts: 485
Location: Taiwan

Firelight2 wrote:
Discovered an issue today:

……


I also encountered the same problem.

Sorry for my poor english.

steel_1024
steel_1024's picture
Offline
Last seen: 29 min 14 sec ago
Joined: 10/17/2016 - 14:06
Posts: 485
Location: Taiwan

Firelight2 wrote:
Discovered an issue today:

Several times now after inserting the battery at the head and then screwing closed the light I’ve noted that the head sometimes stops screwing down a couple mm before it should. This appears to be caused by the inner switch contact tube being slightly off-center and hitting the edges of the narrow driver retaining ring. When this happens the inner tube does not make contact with the driver and the light does not work.

If this occurs, the light can still be screwed down by unscrewing and then rescrewing the head in several times until things line up right. But that doesn’t solve the problem and is frustrating to do. This issue occurred with both my FW3As.

Analysis and Solution:

The problem appears to be caused by the driver retaining ring not being screwed tight to the driver at the factory. If you encounter this issue, use tweezers to turn the driver retaining ring so that it is flush against the driver. Once the retaining ring is snug, this problem goes away completely.

In addition to tightening the retaining ring.
Also align the 2 notches shown in the figure below.

Sorry for my poor english.

teacher
teacher's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 48 min ago
Joined: 02/23/2016 - 19:04
Posts: 9317
Location: NE & SW Alabama

steel_1024 wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
Discovered an issue today:

Several times now after inserting the battery at the head and then screwing closed the light I’ve noted that the head sometimes stops screwing down a couple mm before it should. This appears to be caused by the inner switch contact tube being slightly off-center and hitting the edges of the narrow driver retaining ring. When this happens the inner tube does not make contact with the driver and the light does not work.

If this occurs, the light can still be screwed down by unscrewing and then rescrewing the head in several times until things line up right. But that doesn’t solve the problem and is frustrating to do. This issue occurred with both my FW3As.

Analysis and Solution:

The problem appears to be caused by the driver retaining ring not being screwed tight to the driver at the factory. If you encounter this issue, use tweezers to turn the driver retaining ring so that it is flush against the driver. Once the retaining ring is snug, this problem goes away completely.

In addition to tightening the retaining ring.
Also align the 2 notches shown in the figure below.


Thank steel for the additional advice & photos. That step is invaluable to know also…… Beer

You and Firelight2 have save people a ton of annoyances by your postings! Thumbs Up

If they will only read them that is…. Facepalm . Big Smile . Big Smile

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 31 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 9609
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
steel_1024 wrote:
In addition to tightening the retaining ring. Also align the 2 notches shown in the figure below.

Thanks for posting about this and including pictures!

That confirms the driver isn’t glued, and it also confirms the driver fit issue is completely fixed.

Also, if someone doesn’t know there’s a notch in the driver, it can be easy to miss… and then it’ll be confusing to figure out why the light doesn’t fit together quite right.

PBWilson
Offline
Last seen: 45 min 7 sec ago
Joined: 08/24/2016 - 17:49
Posts: 856
Location: Rochester, NY

teacher wrote:
Most likely…. Wink

How the heck is she supposed to catch up on new YouTube videos, sip her coffee and discuss the latest Game of Thrones episode? Wow!

A big thanks for troubleshooting the retaining ring and pointing out that notch. I’ll check mine when it arrives.

steel_1024
steel_1024's picture
Offline
Last seen: 29 min 14 sec ago
Joined: 10/17/2016 - 14:06
Posts: 485
Location: Taiwan

One of my 2 FW3A is not tightened.
This ring is very thin and the structure may not be very strong.
Maybe bring the retaining ring out when disassembling the battery.
But the chances should be small. Because it is not easy to disassemble.
Some retaining rings may have Burr.
You can take it off and trim it, or grind it with sandpaper. (Observant)

Sorry for my poor english.

Ryzbor
Ryzbor's picture
Offline
Last seen: 21 hours 5 min ago
Joined: 01/21/2018 - 10:52
Posts: 199
Location: Poland

Alright, so what do I have to do to run three red XP-E2’s (max 2.5-3.0A/led) safely in the FWA3?

good tint: Nichia E21A 2000K-7500K except d240 bin, Nichia 219B sw40/sw45, 219C sw303, Cree XPL-HI A/D bins, XHP70.2 5A, Samsung shaved LH351D's, SST-20 FD2, FA3, HA3, .

M3CSL
M3CSL's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 4 days ago
Joined: 05/02/2019 - 05:34
Posts: 218

I was hoping somebody would run 3xXHP50.2 3V in there Big Smile But I haven’t seen any triple MCPCBs that would fit.
The end result would probably be a hot light after 2 seconds.

Convoy S2+ 219b triple, Astrolux FT02, Maglite 3D, Solarforce L2t

KawiBoy1428
KawiBoy1428's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 21 sec ago
Joined: 04/11/2014 - 18:05
Posts: 3615
Location: The Motor City

Ryzbor wrote:
Alright, so what do I have to do to run three red XP-E2’s (max 2.5-3.0A/led) safely in the FWA3?

Disable or take the FET off…run off the 7135’s…..

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

Ryzbor
Ryzbor's picture
Offline
Last seen: 21 hours 5 min ago
Joined: 01/21/2018 - 10:52
Posts: 199
Location: Poland

Will the UI work with a removed fet?

good tint: Nichia E21A 2000K-7500K except d240 bin, Nichia 219B sw40/sw45, 219C sw303, Cree XPL-HI A/D bins, XHP70.2 5A, Samsung shaved LH351D's, SST-20 FD2, FA3, HA3, .

KawiBoy1428
KawiBoy1428's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 21 sec ago
Joined: 04/11/2014 - 18:05
Posts: 3615
Location: The Motor City

Ryzbor wrote:
Will the UI work with a removed fet?

I don’t know on this FW3A, but I have blown FET’s on FET+1 7135 drivers and the lower modes still worked……..

Take one for science… Big Smile

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 3 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 3564
Location: California
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Ryzbor wrote:
Alright, so what do I have to do to run three red XP-E2’s (max 2.5-3.0A/led) safely in the FWA3?
Disable or take the FET off…run off the 7135’s…..

That would work, but keep in mind that without the FET the driver will only supply 2.8 amps. That’s less than 1 amp per LED which is well below the rated max that you described of 2.5-3.0 amp.

If you want something closer to the max possible output of a red XPE your best bet is to modify the firmware or download firmware someone has modified. Wasn’t TK working on a lower amp firmware for LEDs like this and Oslon white flat?

iamlucky13
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 11 min ago
Joined: 06/22/2018 - 09:18
Posts: 483
Location: USA
Firelight2 wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Ryzbor wrote:
Alright, so what do I have to do to run three red XP-E2’s (max 2.5-3.0A/led) safely in the FWA3?
Disable or take the FET off…run off the 7135’s…..

That would work, but keep in mind that without the FET the driver will only supply 2.8 amps. That’s less than 1 amp per LED which is well below the rated max that you described of 2.5-3.0 amp.

If you want something closer to the max possible output of a red XPE your best bet is to modify the firmware or download firmware someone has modified. Wasn’t TK working on a lower amp firmware for LEDs like this and Oslon white flat?

There is a firmware sub-version in her repository for anyone who wants to be conservative with the 219B. It limits the FET channel to 50%. It is also possible to create your own firmware version with different ramp levels.

Because the red XP-E2 has a low forward voltage (and the photo red and far red even lower still), it is probably advisable to avoid FET use entirely unless you’re willing to risk killing a set.

On the other hand, the red and green XP-E2’s seem to have fairly high foward voltages and might work ok with FETs.

Source – XP-E2 datasheet, plus DJozz tests:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/32452

xevious
xevious's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 28 min ago
Joined: 02/27/2013 - 21:55
Posts: 727
Location: Hoboken, NJ USA

Firelight2 wrote:
Discovered an issue today:

Several times now after inserting the battery at the head and then screwing closed the light I’ve noted that the head sometimes stops screwing down a couple mm before it should. This appears to be caused by the inner switch contact tube being slightly off-center and hitting the edges of the narrow driver retaining ring. When this happens the inner tube does not make contact with the driver and the light does not work.

If this occurs, the light can still be screwed down by unscrewing and then rescrewing the head in several times until things line up right. But that doesn’t solve the problem and is frustrating to do. This issue occurred with both my FW3As.

Analysis and Solution:

The problem appears to be caused by the driver retaining ring not being screwed tight to the driver at the factory. If you encounter this issue, use tweezers to turn the driver retaining ring so that it is flush against the driver. Once the retaining ring is snug, this problem goes away completely.


Thank you for providing this information. Hopefully it’s an uncommon situation, as it’ll be frustrating to have to purchase a pair of split ring pliers sufficient for the job.
ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 31 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 9609
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
xevious wrote:
Hopefully it’s an uncommon situation, as it’ll be frustrating to have to purchase a pair of split ring pliers sufficient for the job.

If the ring is loose, tightening it is pretty easy. A toothpick or a nail can generally do the job. But if the ring is tight, loosening it may require better equipment.

KawiBoy1428
KawiBoy1428's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 21 sec ago
Joined: 04/11/2014 - 18:05
Posts: 3615
Location: The Motor City
Firelight2 wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Ryzbor wrote:
Alright, so what do I have to do to run three red XP-E2’s (max 2.5-3.0A/led) safely in the FWA3?
Disable or take the FET off…run off the 7135’s…..

That would work, but keep in mind that without the FET the driver will only supply 2.8 amps. That’s less than 1 amp per LED which is well below the rated max that you described of 2.5-3.0 amp.

If you want something closer to the max possible output of a red XPE your best bet is to modify the firmware or download firmware someone has modified. Wasn’t TK working on a lower amp firmware for LEDs like this and Oslon white flat?


Remove the FET then add more 7135’s for your desired current.

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 3 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 3564
Location: California

Is there room to add more 7135s? I’m not sure there’s enough room to stack them.

KawiBoy1428
KawiBoy1428's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 21 sec ago
Joined: 04/11/2014 - 18:05
Posts: 3615
Location: The Motor City

Firelight2 wrote:
Is there room to add more 7135s? I’m not sure there’s enough room to stack them.

There is room to stack them, might have to add a taller spring….maybe, or use a button top?

. I just sat a 7135 on top at 3 O’clock

.

. Where there is a will there is a way….

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 3 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 3564
Location: California

I wasn’t so concerned about the spring. I was thinking that with another row of 7135s would there be enough room with an 18650 installed for the battery tube to still close fully. This is one light that has to be screwed tightly together or the switch tube won’t make contact at both ends.

KawiBoy1428
KawiBoy1428's picture
Online
Last seen: 2 min 21 sec ago
Joined: 04/11/2014 - 18:05
Posts: 3615
Location: The Motor City

Firelight2 wrote:
I wasn’t so concerned about the spring. I was thinking that with another row of 7135s would there be enough room with an 18650 installed for the battery tube to still close fully. This is one light that has to be screwed tightly together or the switch tube won’t make contact at both ends.

Well I’m not concerned in the least…. just throwing suggestions out there, you don’t know unless you try, thats what modding is all about, if it don’t work, fall back, regroup and attack, repeat… Personally I like the light just as it is, well these 2×3D FW3A’s I got, no modding needed, but the next 2 warm yuck yellow FW3A’s will be subjected to all kinds of ……fun!

. If you run out of room, maybe a contact on the cap end?

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

saypat
saypat's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 54 min ago
Joined: 07/13/2011 - 20:32
Posts: 3359
Location: Calif

If the ring is loose, tightening it is pretty easy. A toothpick or a nail can generally do the job. But if the ring is tight, loosening it may require better equipment.[/quote]




can we assume that tightening would be ‘clockwise’? Thanks.

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 3 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 3564
Location: California

saypat wrote:
If the ring is loose, tightening it is pretty easy. A toothpick or a nail can generally do the job. But if the ring is tight, loosening it may require better equipment.




can we assume that tightening would be ‘clockwise’? Thanks.


Yes.

The retaining ring uses the same threads that the battery tube uses to screw into the head. So yes… turn clockwise to tighten.

xevious
xevious's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 28 min ago
Joined: 02/27/2013 - 21:55
Posts: 727
Location: Hoboken, NJ USA
ToyKeeper wrote:
xevious wrote:
Hopefully it’s an uncommon situation, as it’ll be frustrating to have to purchase a pair of split ring pliers sufficient for the job.

If the ring is loose, tightening it is pretty easy. A toothpick or a nail can generally do the job. But if the ring is tight, loosening it may require better equipment.


Thanks, TK. I was just concerned about tightening enough so that it doesn’t loosen later on. I have a cheap pair of split ring pliers that is a little soft—the tips can bend—and I’m just waiting to spot a good deal on a new pair.
delusional
delusional's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 2 days ago
Joined: 01/29/2016 - 18:58
Posts: 57
Location: Pittsburgh

What’s a nubbin? It’s not much.
It’s a little cylinder of plastic, shown on the left here:

!!
Picture credit to JasonWW

The nubbin fits into the center ring of the larger piece of rubber, and they both go into the FW3A’s switch mechanism.
The Switch of an FW3A will not work without the nubbin.

______________________________________

When you twist off the tailcap of an FW3A, the switch mechanism falls apart.
They were saying something about glueing the switch, but it didn’t happen, might happen in the future, who knows?
In the meantime, the nubbin is very easy to lose. I opened my tailcap once with no problem, but on the second time I lost my nubbin.
I didn’t even know there was “nubbin to lose.” So I wasn’t really watching for it. Now I need a new nubbin.

_______________________________________

It took me about three minutes to make a new nubbin.
I took out one security bit, marked CR-V4, from a set.
You can see it’s got an outer rim and a cup in the middle. This is designed for “security” screws.

!!

_________________________________________

Next I hammered the bit through a plastic drink bottle cap. See the left hole? This did not work because my nubbin got stuck inside the cup of the bit. I damaged the nubbin prying it out.
On the second attempt I stopped a little short, leaving a bit of plastic remaining around the outer ring, and the nubbin was still attached to the cap. I cut the nubbin from the cap with a knife.
See the nubbin on the right, still attached?

!!

_________________________________________

And finally, you can see my new nubbin, in it’s new home, ready to reinstall in my FW3A.
It seems to work really well. …. at least it’s been holding up very well for a few hours.
You also see the drill bit on top, and on the left, the nubbin that got damaged.

!!

I had a half dozen more bad puns ready to go, but decided it’s better if I don’t.
If others would like to join in, there’s nubbin stopping you.

JaredM
JaredM's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 3 min ago
Joined: 10/31/2011 - 13:33
Posts: 575
Location: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

I wonder if a large-ish drop of super glue (or similar) on the rubber insulator/seal would work to replace a fugitive nubbin?

pennzy
pennzy's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 12/10/2017 - 19:45
Posts: 1269
Location: United States , Pa.

Super glue usually does not stick well to rubber. Goop works well with both plastic and rubber.

delusional
delusional's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 2 days ago
Joined: 01/29/2016 - 18:58
Posts: 57
Location: Pittsburgh

Best to just leave the tailcap alone, don’t take it off. Insert the battery from the head.
There’s a warning in the box, stating this.

Pages