FW3A Troubleshooting / FAQ

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JasonWW
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7pot wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
7pot wrote:

JasonWW wrote:
7pot wrote:
Something’s wrong with my new FW3A Sad As soon as I insert a battery, the light goes on. I can’t switch it off, the switch erratically changes brightness and modes. I don’t think it’s related to the battery tube or the switch itself. If I connect a battery directly to the head (+ to the spring, – to the threads) it also comes on immediately. Anybody experienced a similar behavior? What could be the reason for it?
Hmmm, that really is odd. So it doesn’t immediately go to turbo and stay there? It actually ramps up and down and switches modes on it’s own? My guess would be there is something shorting the driver circuits. Maybe a stray sliver of aluminum or something. You might try pulling the driver out and run a brush or compressed air over the tiny components. I assume you checked to see if the driver was flat and that the notches line up, then make sure the retaining ring is tight. I’ve never heard of a light acting like this.

No, it does not go to turbo. When holding the switch, it goes to different levels in steps, stays at the brightest. After that, it step-ramps down if i release the switch and hold it again.


What your describing sounds like proper normal function. It ramps up when you hold the button, release and press again and it goes back down.

Are you confused that it goes in steps instead of the smooth ramp? To switch from stepped ramping to smooth ramping turn the light on and do 3 fast clicks.

Well, it turns on immediately when inserting the battery and tightening. And I can’t turn it off. It acts like a twisty.

I have pulled out the driver and cleaned it. Re-inserted it taking care of the notch. Same result :-(.

I am clueless. Somehow, the MCU must be working as it’s doing something when pressing the button. The button must also be working. It almost looks like (on of the) 7135 are permanently working so there might be a short somewhere?


I see. It does seem there is a problem there. Maybe TK is right in that a 7135 has failed. I would contact Neal about this.

It seems Lumintop is not testing the lights at the factory like they did with the GT. They are just shipping out as fast as they can.

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Lagittaja
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ToyKeeper wrote:
7pot wrote:
Something’s wrong with my new FW3A Sad

As soon as I insert a battery, the light goes on. I can’t switch it off, the switch erratically changes brightness and modes.

I don’t think it’s related to the battery tube or the switch itself. If I connect a battery directly to the head (+ to the spring, – to the threads) it also comes on immediately.

Anybody experienced a similar behavior? What could be the reason for it?

If one of the amc7135 chips is dead, it could cause behavior like that. Those chips fail open, meaning they allow current to pass through… so it would be always on. But the other chips would still work, so it could still sort of function.

Not an EE but I presume one could verify that with a multimeter probing between the pins? How does it fail i.e. what pins to check? If I would have to guess, let’s say VDD and OUT?

For reference I checked a couple of 7135’s on my E2L
VDDGND ~61.6K
OUTGND ~0.54M
VDDOUT infinity

7pot
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ToyKeeper wrote:
7pot wrote:
Something’s wrong with my new FW3A Sad

As soon as I insert a battery, the light goes on. I can’t switch it off, the switch erratically changes brightness and modes.

I don’t think it’s related to the battery tube or the switch itself. If I connect a battery directly to the head (+ to the spring, – to the threads) it also comes on immediately.

Anybody experienced a similar behavior? What could be the reason for it?

If one of the amc7135 chips is dead, it could cause behavior like that. Those chips fail open, meaning they allow current to pass through… so it would be always on. But the other chips would still work, so it could still sort of function.

Wow, I think you are exactly right. Basically the light works including ramping etc., the problem is just that “off” level is not really off. Hitting the switch once goes to a brighter level (“on”), hitting it again to the lower level (“off”). This is exactly the behavior I would expect from an open 7135. I just didn’t know that they fail open.

I am going to contact Neil about that.

Thanks for all the ideas and help!

7pot
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Lagittaja wrote:

Not an EE but I presume one could verify that with a multimeter probing between the pins? How does it fail i.e. what pins to check? If I would have to guess, let’s say VDD and OUT?

For reference I checked a couple of 7135’s on my E2L
VDDGND ~61.6K
OUTGND ~0.54M
VDDOUT infinity

Thanks for the idea and the measurements! As FW3A is a 7+1 configuration, individual 7135 probably can’t be measured without desoldering them, right?

My measurements:
VDDGND ~ 40.8
OUTGND ~ 1.23 M
VDDOUT ~ 1.23 M

Lagittaja
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7pot wrote:
Lagittaja wrote:

Not an EE but I presume one could verify that with a multimeter probing between the pins? How does it fail i.e. what pins to check? If I would have to guess, let’s say VDD and OUT?

For reference I checked a couple of 7135’s on my E2L
VDDGND ~61.6K
OUTGND ~0.54M
VDDOUT infinity

Thanks for the idea and the measurements! As FW3A is a 7+1 configuration, individual 7135 probably can’t be measured without desoldering them, right?

My measurements:
VDDGND ~ 40.8
OUTGND ~ 1.23 M
VDDOUT ~ 1.23 M

Yeah, this is in circuit measuring. They’re all connected so if you want to measure an individual chip you’d need to desolder it.
Again, not an EE, but I guess someone with a properly functioning FW3A driver could take the measurements so we get a rough ballpark of what they should be. I’m still waiting for mine to arrive..
Since if there’s a 7135 that has failed open, the values should be different since they’re all connected. Right?

P.S. I botched the VDD-OUT measurement of the E2L driver yesterday. I don’t know what I did but as I saw your numbers I realised I did something wrong.
So I checked the E2L again (6×7135) since the temperature is different today.
VDDGND ~61.2K
OUTGND ~0.52M
VDDOUT ~0.60M
Took a quick look at my S2+ (8×7135) at the same time.
VDDGND ~44.4K
OUTGND ~0.51M
VDDOUT ~0.57M
These probably don’t matter as the FW3A driver is completely different but oh well.
It is interesting though that the uhm “ratio” of these measurements are so different to yours.

Rah_BE
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I’m having a difficult time getting to thermal config mode. When I do the first 3 clicks it blinks once for battery check..?… How soon after should I commence with the 2 clicks to move on to sunset? Is there some confirmation? Then 2 for beacon. Any confirmation?

I feel like I’m just clicking and nothing is happening.

Currently the flashlight will step down after about 12 seconds without being hot at all.

teacher
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The “confirmation” is when it changes modes. 3 clicks – pause – 2 clicks – pause – 2 clicks – temp mode – 4 clicks – Thermal Config

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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I have a similar problem – light just turns on and stays on when I put the battery in and I can’t adjust it at all. I didn’t mess with the tailcap. Wtf do I do?

Bored anesthesia resident

Rah_BE
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teacher wrote:
The “confirmation” is when it changes modes. 3 clicks – pause – 2 clicks – pause – 2 clicks – temp mode – 4 clicks – Thermal Config

How does one know if they are successfully in a different mode?

teacher
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Rah_BE wrote:
teacher wrote:
The “confirmation” is when it changes modes. 3 clicks – pause – 2 clicks – pause – 2 clicks – temp mode – 4 clicks – Thermal Config
How does one know if they are successfully in a different mode?
It will blink or do something different when it changes modes.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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teacher
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FindThisHumerus wrote:
I have a similar problem – light just turns on and stays on when I put the battery in and I can’t adjust it at all. I didn’t mess with the tailcap. Wtf do I do?
Hi…. Go HERE . Read it, do what is says, and hopefully that will fix you up. Thumbs Up

In addition, make sure the threads are clean.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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hank
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I assume the reason the temperature is not configured from the factory is that nobody wants the assembly line to include setting the flashlight aside for half an hour to equilibrate, then having the assembler follow the clicking instructions.

There are likely always going to be things BLF folks have to fiddle with adjusting because the builders can’t do it.

Geuzzz
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To get out of momentary mode I have to disconnect the battery. 5 clicks from off does not work.

Is this how it supposed to work?

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hank wrote:

There are likely always going to be things BLF folks have to fiddle with adjusting because the builders can’t do it.

Well that’s just part of the fun.
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Geuzzz wrote:
To get out of momentary mode I have to disconnect the battery. 5 clicks from off does not work.

Is this how it supposed to work?

YES…. Thumbs Up

CRX wrote:
hank wrote:

There are likely always going to be things BLF folks have to fiddle with adjusting because the builders can’t do it.
Well that’s just part of the fun.
+1 .. And the fun can be had by all this way too.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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Seeker1
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Setting the current temperature seems easy enough. I may be wrong about this. I am thinking that when the light has come to room temp you should configure quickly before light has flashed on and off a lot because the internal temperature will be stedaly increasing.

I guess if it is close may not make too much difference. I know that after setting mine and going back in to check the setting it never reads the same as where it was set.

teacher
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Seeker1 wrote:
Setting the current temperature seems easy enough. I may be wrong about this. I am thinking that when the light has come to room temp you should configure quickly before light has flashed on and off a lot because the internal temperature will be stedaly increasing.

I guess if it is close may not make too much difference. I know that after setting mine and going back in to check the setting it never reads the same as where it was set.

Yep, it is easy enough to set & I think close is good enough too. I can get mine to read within + or – 1°C & it seems to hold the setting well.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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wle
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Geuzzz wrote:
To get out of momentary mode I have to disconnect the battery. 5 clicks from off does not work.

Is this how it supposed to work?

yes – i think the manual says that you have to do that

because the light doesn;t know the difference between 5 ‘signal clicks’ and 5 ‘i want to turn off now’ clicks

wle

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rayman007
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Is there a factory reset shortcut?

JasonWW
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Seeker1 wrote:
Setting the current temperature seems easy enough. I may be wrong about this. I am thinking that when the light has come to room temp you should configure quickly before light has flashed on and off a lot because the internal temperature will be stedaly increasing.

I guess if it is close may not make too much difference. I know that after setting mine and going back in to check the setting it never reads the same as where it was set.


On my light, I had to do 21 clicks to get it to read 24°C. Kinda odd, but it worked.

Most of it’s blinks are not going to generate much heat. It’s really the brightest levels that heat it up internally.

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JasonWW
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rayman007 wrote:
Is there a factory reset shortcut?

Not that I know of.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

JasonWW
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Rah_BE wrote:
I’m having a difficult time getting to thermal config mode. When I do the first 3 clicks it blinks once for battery check..?… How soon after should I commence with the 2 clicks to move on to sunset? Is there some confirmation? Then 2 for beacon. Any confirmation?

I feel like I’m just clicking and nothing is happening.

Currently the flashlight will step down after about 12 seconds without being hot at all.


Make sure you start with the light turned off.
Also make sure you are not stuck in Muggle mode. I think Muggle mode will step the light down quickly without being too hot.
Rah_BE wrote:
teacher wrote:
The “confirmation” is when it changes modes. 3 clicks – pause – 2 clicks – pause – 2 clicks – temp mode – 4 clicks – Thermal Config

How does one know if they are successfully in a different mode?


When in battery check mode it blinks the voltage (4 slow then 1 fast is 4.1v). In sunset it’s a steady light. In beacon it blinks once every few seconds. In temp check it blinks out the temperature (2 slow blinks followed by 8 fast blinks is 28°C for instance).

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links.

Rah_BE
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JasonWW wrote:
Rah_BE wrote:
I’m having a difficult time getting to thermal config mode. When I do the first 3 clicks it blinks once for battery check..?… How soon after should I commence with the 2 clicks to move on to sunset? Is there some confirmation? Then 2 for beacon. Any confirmation?

I feel like I’m just clicking and nothing is happening.

Currently the flashlight will step down after about 12 seconds without being hot at all.


Make sure you start with the light turned off.
Also make sure you are not stuck in Muggle mode. I think Muggle mode will step the light down quickly without being too hot.
Rah_BE wrote:
teacher wrote:
The “confirmation” is when it changes modes. 3 clicks – pause – 2 clicks – pause – 2 clicks – temp mode – 4 clicks – Thermal Config

How does one know if they are successfully in a different mode?


When in battery check mode it blinks the voltage (4 slow then 1 fast is 4.1v). In sunset it’s a steady light. In beacon it blinks once every few seconds. In temp check it blinks out the temperature (2 slow blinks followed by 8 fast blinks is 28°C for instance).

If I am in muggle mode, how would I get out of it? 6 clicks?

Edit: Found it in the manual.

Quote:
In Muggle mode, there are only a few available actions: – Click: Turn the light on or off. – Hold: Change brightness. – 6 clicks: Exit Muggle mode.

I was in muggle mode. Like a muggle would be. Facepalm

hank
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I’ve reached the point where I need every flashlight’s instruction text saved to my PDA so I can remember what I’m doing.

I find myself wishing for a magic signal that says “lock the light in its current mode so I can turn it on and off without losing the setting” — particularly for the bike strobe, which I use in crosswalks to wake up cellphone-drivers on the streets locally. (The Sofirn SP32A is best for those crosswalks because it wants nothing more than a triple click to start strobing.)

saypat
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[quote=hank]I’ve reached the point where I need every flashlight’s instruction text saved to my PDA so I can remember what I’m doing.



I need this too! Last night I was using my Emisar D4 for the 1st time in a while. I KNEW it had NarsilM, I just knew it! Kept trying things, like double click high, double click again for strobe … but no strobe showed up? And I tried battery check, then double click for temp, double click again for version #. Nothing. I thought the light was broken! Took the head off to see if I could see anything wrong. Tried another cell. Was going to contact Mountain about a warranty. Finally went to a D4 search on BLF to see the unique UI. Oh yeah, now I remember! Go easy on me with over 100 lights.

Firelight2
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hank wrote:
I’ve reached the point where I need every flashlight’s instruction text saved to my PDA so I can remember what I’m doing….

Remember the days where flashlights just had a switch that slid forward or back for on/off? And no modes.

teacher
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Firelight2 wrote:
hank wrote:
I’ve reached the point where I need every flashlight’s instruction text saved to my PDA so I can remember what I’m doing….
Remember the days where flashlights just had a switch that slid forward or back for on/off? And no modes.
Yep, and had the little button in front of the switch for ‘momentary’. Thumbs Up
How things have changed…..

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

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CRX
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This is why I make up the cheatsheets & keep them on my phone Big Smile

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hank wrote:
— particularly for the bike strobe, which I use in crosswalks to wake up cellphone-drivers on the streets locally. (The Sofirn SP32A is best for those crosswalks because it wants nothing more than a triple click to start strobing.)

If i want blinking stuff for crossing the road on a Narsil or Andúril, I use 3 clicks for battery check.
It is also a bit milder than strobes, in case you don’t want to blind someone.

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Received 4 lights with batteries installed. Checked retaining rings and all were tight. One light would get stuck in the low level strobe and no other modes available when the switch was pressed. This was intermittent and only happened a few times.

Took time to investigate the problem today and I could create the problem by very slightly loosen the head.

I finally cleaned threads and lubed with nyogel. Now I could not create the problem again.

Did not clean contact pads on the board yet but all seems well for now.

Love these FW3A`s

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